Keeping factory sub when adding aftermarket headunit (99' - 03' TL) - Page 6 - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community



Keeping factory sub when adding aftermarket headunit (99' - 03' TL)

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Old 02-14-2015, 04:09 AM   #201
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Sorry to double-post here, but anything you guys could do (IF any..) to help me get out of this trial would be greatttt.
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Old 03-09-2015, 01:42 PM   #202
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I being trying to figure out how to get my factory sub with aftermarket radio and finally I found the way to do it.

Great write up
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Old 04-07-2015, 03:09 PM   #203
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Anyone recommend a certain type of headunit, or will any aftermarket unit work well with this conversion. Also, any recommendation on the best harness/dash frame to purchase?

Looking to replace my headunit on my 03 tl-s w/navi.
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Old 04-26-2015, 01:13 AM   #204
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need to turn on sub

i have a 99 tl and i have the pioneer deh150 stereo and connected stereo harness to the metra 70 1721. So in order for me to turn on the amp and the factory sub, what wirings do i need to do?? Any visuals will be apprieciated
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:46 PM   #205
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How did you do it
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:28 AM   #206
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I did this last night and it worked perfect! Lucky that the previous owner kept all the harness and rca's still hooked up in the car. We just spliced into the factory amp wires and spliced the rca wire and connected them both and the factory sub came right on! Thanks for this thread!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by StreetEffectz View Post
I've gotten a lot of requests asking how you do this since the wire harness and aftermarket headunit lose the control over the factory sub. The solution is quite simple actually.

If you pop out the back seat to gain access to the factory sub amp, you'll see a connector going into the amp and 2 of the wires will be as follows:

blue with a green trace (+)

-and-

orange with a blue trace (-)

All you need to do is run an RCA cable from your aftermarket headunits subwoofer output and connect it to the above two wires accordingly. For those who don't quite understand, you basically cut the end off the RCA cable that you've just run to the factory subwoofer amp and the center leg of this cable will connect to the blue/green wire and the shield to the orange/blue wire.

You could do this right behind the headunit at the EQ unit, but, there are a couple blue/green and a couple orange/blue and I didn't want to confuse anyone

Nice thing about this is with an aftermarket headunit w/subwoofer out, you'll now have seperate volume control over the factory sub.

Hope that helps some of you out!
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:39 PM   #207
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I have the radio out and there is no green plug any where in the dash.
Is there different plugs for eq no eq?
Car has NO eq.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:17 AM   #208
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Duh

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Originally Posted by Twisted99 View Post
I have the radio out and there is no green plug any where in the dash.
Is there different plugs for eq no eq?
Car has NO eq.
Please ignore my idiotic post. I ASSUMED the EQ was on on the factory radio, not a box behind it (NOT my car, it's my nephew's and today was the first time I looked at it) Found the green plug and everything is working. Sub not as loud as I wanted even after numerous adjustments to the settings. We'll see how he likes it, if not enough bass we'll add an amp and aftermarket sub for his Bday.
THANKS.
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:43 PM   #209
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It didn't work for me.




Is it supposed to be like this?<br/>





This is the remote turn on.








I found these wires that was already cut when I removed the seats.
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:57 PM   #210
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Lots of good information in these articles, but too much information so it gets a little confusing. So let me try to simplify.

All you need to do is to connect THREE WIRES from your aftermarket head unit directly to the stock Bose Subwoofer/Amp (bypassing the stock Bose Equalizer).

1. Two lines connect the line level sound outputs from the RCA connectors on your aftermarket head unit (positive and negative leads).

-- Sotter paper clips to the wires that are connected to a male RCA connector. See Post 193 of this thread for illustration. You may want to used some heat-shrink insulation to insulate the wires instead of electrical tape because it can get messy.

Link: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/keeping-factory-sub-when-adding-aftermarket-headunit-99-03-tl-326253/page5/#post15215043


--Disconnect the green connector from the stock equalizer and connect the sottered paper clips to the appropriate cavity. The positive lead goes into Cavity 3 (male part of the RCA connector); and the negative lead goes into Cavity 10. These two wires are connected to the subwoofer's amplifier inputs. See post 45 (first picture).

Link: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/keeping-factory-sub-when-adding-aftermarket-headunit-99-03-tl-326253/page2/#post5706413

(Cavity 3 is the Blue/Green striped wire circled on the right; Cavity 10 is the Orange/Blue striped wire.)

You do not need a low pass filter since a crossover is built into the subwoofer.

2. The third line is the power lead. Connect the external power lead (positive) from head unit. This is most commonly a Blue wire or a Blue/White wire. This lead provides power to another device such as a power antenna or an amp.

See post 45 (second picture). The wires that have not been connected in the picture are the ones you need to connect together.

Link: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/keeping-factory-sub-when-adding-aftermarket-headunit-99-03-tl-326253/page2/#post5706413

3. (Optional: Test Subwoofer) - Connect another sound source to the RCA Cable that is connected to the green harness such as an MP3 player. Turn on the new headunit with the sound down to power the subwoofer on. If you hear sound from the subwoofer, it works.

----------

The perfectionist and stubbornness in me forces me to make use of something that is already there so I spent a lot of time trying to figure this out (too much confusing information). For what it's worth, it wasn't worth the time and effort I spent. I don't hear much difference with the subwoofer.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by EnzyteBob; 06-04-2016 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 11-05-2016, 08:14 PM   #211
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which cable is the "remote" wire that i need to connect to the antenna on the metra harness? I know one says remote control on it but i want to be sure.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:33 PM   #212
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Dang, there's so many conflicting options in here, not sure what to follow. Can the mods clean this up at all or is there a completed and final DIY out there? If not, I think I'll get it figured out and make a DIY myself.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:29 PM   #213
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Hey Kris9884 i am having the same issue and its bugging me lol. i have the harness connected properly, just spliced the rca cables and attached paper clips to the end. i am going through the equalizer behind the dash. head unit is pioneer avh-1400dvd. from previous posts i got a little lost. not sure if orange to orange and blue to blue is the correct connection.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:39 PM   #214
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This was very easy and took about an hour from start to finish. I took a couple pictures along the way to help others see exactly what to do. Grab a "RCA to spade tongue" at Radio Shack or Amazon, I got a 12 feet long cord and was the perfect length. It was $3 and will be the only thing you'll have to buy.



Take the back seat out and set them aside, there's a couple 10mm screws between the upper and lower pads right where the seatbelt buckles are.



Locate the factory Bose amp behind the seat and remove the two 10mm screws to gain better access.



Notice the black wires with the open ends? That's the cable from Radio Shack. The RCA end is plugged into the back of my head unit to the "R/SW" or subwoofer out signal, pictured below. Your head unit may be labeled something different so just check your manual.



Now, back at the AMP, splice the black wires to the blue/green and orange/blue. It doesn't matter which combination of colors are connected, they both ohm out the same and sound exactly the same, I tested both combinations with a volt meter. I didn't get a picture of the solder and shrink wrap but just took this picture to be clear and obvious of how to do it. Do it right for the best sound. If you use electrical tape and have a ground loop sound or your car burns to the ground, that's your own fault.



This is where you test your work, as long as the sub is bumping, you're all done. Bolt the AMP back to that metal frame with the two 10mm screws and tuck the wires away. Install the seats the same way you took them out and enjoy!

Last edited by Kris9884; 05-01-2017 at 01:48 PM.
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