Keeping factory sub when adding aftermarket headunit (99' - 03' TL)
05-16-2011, 03:28 PM
#121
I managed to have my sub working with the instructions on the forum. I had to remove the rear seat to get to the amplifier, since I couldn't easily access the equalizer due to the navigation unit. Thanks to everyone who have contributed. It was really a tedious process. Have the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X895 installed.
06-08-2011, 07:02 PM
#123
here is the easiest way. ignore the EQ. run a single rca and the RTO(blue/white, on the harness that came with my kenwood) from the headunit all the way back to the amp that is behind the rear seat. once the seats are taken out, you can run the wires under the carpet easily to conceal them.
cut the rca just as streeteffectz mentioned. the center of the rca get wired to the b/g wire on the amp harness. the outer shield is connected to the o/b wire on the same amp harness. then finally the RTO wire from the new HU's harness gets connected to the orange wire on the amp harness.
as for the rest of the system, you wire the HU's harness to the metra harness as normal... but concerning the wiring of the stock amp/sub to the new HU... the metra harness isnt touched. you only need the single rca wire from the "sub-out" of the HU and the "remote turn-on" from the headunit harness.
cut the rca just as streeteffectz mentioned. the center of the rca get wired to the b/g wire on the amp harness. the outer shield is connected to the o/b wire on the same amp harness. then finally the RTO wire from the new HU's harness gets connected to the orange wire on the amp harness.
as for the rest of the system, you wire the HU's harness to the metra harness as normal... but concerning the wiring of the stock amp/sub to the new HU... the metra harness isnt touched. you only need the single rca wire from the "sub-out" of the HU and the "remote turn-on" from the headunit harness.
06-20-2011, 10:38 AM
#125
I've gotten a lot of requests asking how you do this since the wire harness and aftermarket headunit lose the control over the factory sub. The solution is quite simple actually.
If you pop out the back seat to gain access to the factory sub amp, you'll see a connector going into the amp and 2 of the wires will be as follows:
blue with a green trace (+)
-and-
orange with a blue trace (-)
All you need to do is run an RCA cable from your aftermarket headunits subwoofer output and connect it to the above two wires accordingly. For those who don't quite understand, you basically cut the end off the RCA cable that you've just run to the factory subwoofer amp and the center leg of this cable will connect to the blue/green wire and the shield to the orange/blue wire.
You could do this right behind the headunit at the EQ unit, but, there are a couple blue/green and a couple orange/blue and I didn't want to confuse anyone
Nice thing about this is with an aftermarket headunit w/subwoofer out, you'll now have seperate volume control over the factory sub.
Hope that helps some of you out!
If you pop out the back seat to gain access to the factory sub amp, you'll see a connector going into the amp and 2 of the wires will be as follows:
blue with a green trace (+)
-and-
orange with a blue trace (-)
All you need to do is run an RCA cable from your aftermarket headunits subwoofer output and connect it to the above two wires accordingly. For those who don't quite understand, you basically cut the end off the RCA cable that you've just run to the factory subwoofer amp and the center leg of this cable will connect to the blue/green wire and the shield to the orange/blue wire.
You could do this right behind the headunit at the EQ unit, but, there are a couple blue/green and a couple orange/blue and I didn't want to confuse anyone
Nice thing about this is with an aftermarket headunit w/subwoofer out, you'll now have seperate volume control over the factory sub.
Hope that helps some of you out!
07-20-2011, 11:17 AM
#126
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-20-2011, 11:34 AM
#127
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Equalizer with green connector still attached.
Disconnected connector with RCA cable attached. The thicker black wire that is hanging down is the RCA cable with the male connector out of view. As shown, the center conductor from the RCA cable connects to the blue wire with the green stripe. The shield from the RCA cable connects to the orange wire with the blue stripe. Obviously these were soldered and taped.
If you have two sub-out jacks on your HU, connect both RCA cables to the same wires. Some people have mentioned that you can choose either the left or the right and use only one RCA cable, but I don't recommend that.
RCA cable soldered and taped and ready to attach.
Finally, you'll need to get radio-switched power to the factory sub amp. On the wiring harness that I received (from Crutchfield), this was an orange wire. I connected the power antenna lead from my head unit to this wire. This energizes the sub amp any time the radio is on. Don't forget this connection or the sub amp won't work.
My final results. Before adding the component speakers, anyway. And no I don't listen to Pink
. That's a scrolling display. It's Pink Floyd. 
Good luck,
Garrote
I just purchased a JVC KW-XR810. I followed the EQ install instructions completely. My new HU has left and right subwoofer RCA outputs. I tried running a left signal only and a right signal only. I also tried running both bridged to the EQ harness.
I also made sure that my HU had the subwoofer turned on (adjustable from 0-8 with a low pass filter turned off). Finally, I made sure I had wired the Accessory Power to the Power Antennae of the Metra harness stated above.
I'm pretty sure the sub is getting power as I can hear a buzzing when I have the + only hooked up. I can also hear the "clicking" when I turn on the HU. However, I cannot get any signal from the HU to play through the sub.
I've read this whole thread and have no more ideas. I would appreciate any help. I'm going to pull the car apart again this weekend to try to fix this. I'm considering running the RCA and RTO to the amp in the back and see if that helps. I'm also going to trouble shoot the issue by wiring some old headphones to an rca connector and see if I get any signal from the HU and do the same with my ipod to see if I can send a signal from the EQ splice to the sub from behind the HU.
Any suggestions or assistance is greatly appreciated. I just hope I didn't get a bad HU from the company. The shipping box was pretty beat up but the internal box with the HU was in decent condition. Arghh....
07-31-2011, 11:07 PM
#128
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I gotta thank the guys that contributed to this thread. My son got a new-to-him 99 with an aftermarket HU and the stock sub not working. Luckily the PO had run some sub RCAs and turn on wire to the rear. Rather than cut the RCAs, I pulled an RCA set out of my junk cables with sockets on one end and cut that. Combined the L & R together and spliced the wires to the stock inputs going into the stock Bose amp. It worked perfectly first try and we didn't even need to splice in the amp turn on wire. Easy. I may upgrade the sub later but right now its great for a student on a budget. My question of the day is, if the HU sub output can be tuned to say 100hz shouldn't you be able to bypass the stock Bose LPF under the rear deck. I am assuming it is passive and therefore would eat up some power that the sub could use. Thanks. Cam.
10-23-2011, 09:20 PM
#131
6th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Surfing the internet can be infuriating. I just found this which some may find interesting...
It means I still have a problem.
http://www.bcae1.com/
Select item # 22 from the right side slide bar Entitled - Head Unit.
Connecting to Remote or Power Antenna Outputs.
There may be one or more switched 12 volt outputs on your head unit. These outputs are usually called remote outputs. They are used to control power amplifiers or power antennas. If your unit has only one remote output, 12 volts will be sent through it when any audio source is being used (tuner, CD, tape, aux...). It will be 'hot' (have 12 volts on it) when the head unit is on. It will have no voltage when the head unit is off.
If the unit has two remotes, one wire (generally a dark blue wire with a white stripe* for aftermarket radios) will be for your power antenna and will only have 12 volts on it when you are using the tuner.
It will have no voltage on it when the head unit is switched to CD, tape, aux or is switched off. This is so that your power antenna will go down when it is not needed.
The second output (generally a dark blue wire* for aftermarket radios) will be marked amp remote (or amp turn-on) and will have 12 volts switched to it when any source is in use.
There is a diagram on the test light page that shows both types of outputs.
Please note that the remote wires for stock (OEM) radios will be of a different color (probably not blue). You can refer to the following page for the color code for your vehicle.
Street Dreams
*Some radios use blue with a white stripe for the power antenna and others use it for the amp turn on wire. Just keep in mind that if it has 2 dark blue wires and one has a white stripe and the other is solid blue, those wires are for amp/power antenna control. You'll have to refer to the deck's owner's manual for the color code.
This could be one of the reason why some are having issues.
RJay
It means I still have a problem.
http://www.bcae1.com/
Select item # 22 from the right side slide bar Entitled - Head Unit.
Connecting to Remote or Power Antenna Outputs.
There may be one or more switched 12 volt outputs on your head unit. These outputs are usually called remote outputs. They are used to control power amplifiers or power antennas. If your unit has only one remote output, 12 volts will be sent through it when any audio source is being used (tuner, CD, tape, aux...). It will be 'hot' (have 12 volts on it) when the head unit is on. It will have no voltage when the head unit is off.
If the unit has two remotes, one wire (generally a dark blue wire with a white stripe* for aftermarket radios) will be for your power antenna and will only have 12 volts on it when you are using the tuner.
It will have no voltage on it when the head unit is switched to CD, tape, aux or is switched off. This is so that your power antenna will go down when it is not needed.
The second output (generally a dark blue wire* for aftermarket radios) will be marked amp remote (or amp turn-on) and will have 12 volts switched to it when any source is in use.
There is a diagram on the test light page that shows both types of outputs.
Please note that the remote wires for stock (OEM) radios will be of a different color (probably not blue). You can refer to the following page for the color code for your vehicle.
Street Dreams
*Some radios use blue with a white stripe for the power antenna and others use it for the amp turn on wire. Just keep in mind that if it has 2 dark blue wires and one has a white stripe and the other is solid blue, those wires are for amp/power antenna control. You'll have to refer to the deck's owner's manual for the color code.
This could be one of the reason why some are having issues.
RJay
11-07-2011, 12:32 AM
#134
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Edmonds, Washington
Age: 31
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My story!
I installed my Kenwood Double Din Navi about three months ago and did this trick and I thought it sounded pretty good! And just tonight, I was sitting in a parking lot waiting for someone and adjusting the sound settings. I accidentally hit the "Subwoofer Off" button and nothing happened. I turned it back on and turned the music way up, opened the trunk, and felt the speaker, nothing.
I hooked up the pins wrong!
I've been unhappy with it for awhile and have been shopping around for Basslinks, etc. and I just forgot to check it! Ha.
Well tomorrow my car is coming apart for the third time.
I installed my Kenwood Double Din Navi about three months ago and did this trick and I thought it sounded pretty good! And just tonight, I was sitting in a parking lot waiting for someone and adjusting the sound settings. I accidentally hit the "Subwoofer Off" button and nothing happened. I turned it back on and turned the music way up, opened the trunk, and felt the speaker, nothing.
I hooked up the pins wrong!
I've been unhappy with it for awhile and have been shopping around for Basslinks, etc. and I just forgot to check it! Ha.
Well tomorrow my car is coming apart for the third time.
11-30-2011, 06:59 PM
#135
I finally got around to doing this. The previous owner had a huge box with dual 10's sub woofers and did not have the need to worry about the stock subs. Since my days of trying to start car alarms with the vibrations of my sounz are over, I decided to try this DiY.
My tips? There are a few bolts holding the seat and seat back. If you find these, the back seat will easily lift up. Also, I unscrewed the amp and worked on it from inside the house. It was easier to solder the RCA leads.
Also, I connected the RCA cables from the HU to this gadget : http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103793 and connected it to this :http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102955 which is connected to the AMP wires mentioned by step 2. Works great and I saved alot of time splicing and soldering wires.
My tips? There are a few bolts holding the seat and seat back. If you find these, the back seat will easily lift up. Also, I unscrewed the amp and worked on it from inside the house. It was easier to solder the RCA leads.
Also, I connected the RCA cables from the HU to this gadget : http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103793 and connected it to this :http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102955 which is connected to the AMP wires mentioned by step 2. Works great and I saved alot of time splicing and soldering wires.
12-20-2011, 07:34 PM
#136
Advanced
I did it - replace 2001 Acura TL factory HU with Clarion CX501
I did it !!!
after a lot of research and the information from this thread, I finally thought it is doable and I did it - I replace the 2001 Acura TL factory HU with Clarion CX501, and keep all factory speaker and subwoofer working. it wasn't easy but here are a few tips for anyone want to do it:
1. after take out factory HU, you just need to remove 4 screws to take down the metal bracket that holds factory HU, and the BOSE EQ will come down with it. 2 screws inside and below climate control; 1 screw on the drive side of metal bracket, 1 screw on the passenger side of metal bracket.
2. since you are not going to use BOSE EQ anymore, so just cut off three lead from the 14Pin harness connects to the BOSE EQ, so it would be easier for you to connect these three to the sub out put from your new after market HU. the lead are Pin 3, Pin 10, Pin 1.
Pin 3 (BLU/GRN), Connet to Sub output (+) from your new HU
Pin 10 (ORN/BLU), connec to Sub output (-) from your new HU
Pin 1 (WHT/YEL), connect to 12V Radio Switched on power.
you basically remove and bypass the former BOSE EQ, and feed the preamp subwoofer signal from your new HU to the amplifier (that you don't need to know where the hell is this amplifier).
2. when turn on your new HU, make sure whether it has setting for Ext Sub On/Off and turn it on; I didn't hear the sound from sub even though I was convinced that all connection are correctly done. later when playing with new HU, I ran into this setting and turned it on and immediately the subwoofer from back seat came to live.
3. you would definitely better off to add steering wheel control adapter so you can adjust volume and forward the track, to make new HU an enjoyable.
I here post an image for how factory audio works and you will have better understanding and confidence on what you need to do - to get a new HU with USB/BT/IPod, while keeping factory speaker/subwoofer. after all, the factory speaker and subwooker is not that bad at all.
(the image is from googling many times; credit to a gentleman who years ago used Acura factory HU to outift his classic 64 Austin Mark 3 car )
oops I am not able to paste the image.
after a lot of research and the information from this thread, I finally thought it is doable and I did it - I replace the 2001 Acura TL factory HU with Clarion CX501, and keep all factory speaker and subwoofer working. it wasn't easy but here are a few tips for anyone want to do it:
1. after take out factory HU, you just need to remove 4 screws to take down the metal bracket that holds factory HU, and the BOSE EQ will come down with it. 2 screws inside and below climate control; 1 screw on the drive side of metal bracket, 1 screw on the passenger side of metal bracket.
2. since you are not going to use BOSE EQ anymore, so just cut off three lead from the 14Pin harness connects to the BOSE EQ, so it would be easier for you to connect these three to the sub out put from your new after market HU. the lead are Pin 3, Pin 10, Pin 1.
Pin 3 (BLU/GRN), Connet to Sub output (+) from your new HU
Pin 10 (ORN/BLU), connec to Sub output (-) from your new HU
Pin 1 (WHT/YEL), connect to 12V Radio Switched on power.
you basically remove and bypass the former BOSE EQ, and feed the preamp subwoofer signal from your new HU to the amplifier (that you don't need to know where the hell is this amplifier).
2. when turn on your new HU, make sure whether it has setting for Ext Sub On/Off and turn it on; I didn't hear the sound from sub even though I was convinced that all connection are correctly done. later when playing with new HU, I ran into this setting and turned it on and immediately the subwoofer from back seat came to live.
3. you would definitely better off to add steering wheel control adapter so you can adjust volume and forward the track, to make new HU an enjoyable.
I here post an image for how factory audio works and you will have better understanding and confidence on what you need to do - to get a new HU with USB/BT/IPod, while keeping factory speaker/subwoofer. after all, the factory speaker and subwooker is not that bad at all.
(the image is from googling many times; credit to a gentleman who years ago used Acura factory HU to outift his classic 64 Austin Mark 3 car )
oops I am not able to paste the image.
The following 2 users liked this post by jliu6789:
abcman (01-20-2015)
12-21-2011, 06:57 PM
#137
Cruisin'
So, just like a typical TL, my radio went ER-E1!!! DX I now have to steal my brothers HU (temporarily) and quick fix this issue. Thnx to this thread it was done in 15 minutes. Havent connected the sub yet. I did remove the eq to check the wires on the harness, and i dont get why people have so much trouble with it. Hopefully splicing with the EQ harness works, or im just gonna have to blow some money! But what to buy...?!?!?!
12-31-2011, 10:43 AM
#138
Cruisin'
HA! Finally got around to wiring up the Bose sub and amp. I'm very unimpressed with Bose now that i hear it all together. My 2000 Jeep had a Stock Infinity system with stock amp and sub, and it sounded much much better. Contemplating switching that whole system into my TL.
01-08-2012, 12:04 AM
#139
4th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Jacksonville, fl
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pioneer Shallow 8" Sub
Today was a good day. Installed the Pioneer TSS W841D 8" shallow mount subwoofer in the stock position. I will post photos later. Removed the Bose OEM subwoofer and separated it. Once separated, used the bottom portion of the OEM subwoofer to screw down/brace the shallow mount to. Then once that was done, placed it back into the rear dash. I used 4 bolts as spacers when subwoofer was placed back into the dash to provide clearance so that the truck bracket could be avoided. Or can email them if want a visual.
http://us.mg203.mail.yahoo.com/dc/launch?.partner=sbc&.gx=1&.rand=e0to74dk9vedi
http://us.mg203.mail.yahoo.com/dc/launch?.partner=sbc&.gx=1&.rand=e0to74dk9vedi
02-19-2012, 02:17 PM
#140
8th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2012
Age: 40
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys, don't mean to hi-jack the thread but I'm trying to install a pioneer radio to my tl but the sound is muffled. even at the max volume there's barley any sound. amp turn ons hooked up and wire harness with rca are being used to run the speakers from the radio outputs.
any help would be appreciated.
any help would be appreciated.
04-29-2012, 11:40 PM
#145
5th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello,
I read this thead hundred times before I started my work and now I have a different issue. I can hear my sub but the signal is way too low. My head unit is JVC 900BT and I adjusted the x-over, sub level= max, loudness on and high amplifier gain and it didn't help.
Do you have any idea?
thanks
tran.
I read this thead hundred times before I started my work and now I have a different issue. I can hear my sub but the signal is way too low. My head unit is JVC 900BT and I adjusted the x-over, sub level= max, loudness on and high amplifier gain and it didn't help.
Do you have any idea?
thanks
tran.
05-28-2012, 12:11 PM
#149
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure if someone already mentioned this, but if you have two RCA cables running from your deck to the amp, open them up and attach the center (+) wire of BOTH RCA cables to the positive cable, and BOTH outer (-) wires on the RCA cable to the negative on the amp. This confused me since the original guide only mentioned a single cable.
Also, the original guide was correct in regards to wire colors for my 2003 TL.
Also, the original guide was correct in regards to wire colors for my 2003 TL.
07-12-2012, 11:10 PM
#150
Advanced
Join Date: Oct 2010
Age: 36
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay so I have read over this thread a few times as well as watched some videos and read some other sites and I think I am ready to try this install (never have done any audio work on a car before but want to try).
I bought my new deck (AVH-P2400BT), metra kit for the dash and a generic wire harness for 98 and up honda/acura from futureshop (in canada). I just had a few questions but this is generally what I plan to do. 2003 Acura TL-S btw.
1. Get the old radio out. (No problems I can see with that).
2. Disconnect the EQ and remove it to just leave the green connector seen in a few pics near the start of this. (One question here is does the wire harness I bought connect to this directly? Also in the manual of the 03 acura it shows two diagrams on the same page, I believe I am using the first one on the left not the second one???).
3. Wire up everything pretty standard according to which is which between the harness of the HU and the wiring harness to the car. The only question I have here is the power antenna one that needs to be done for the sub. In my manual for my head unit it does not explicitly say this but I believe its a blue/white line that says "Connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto antenna relay control terminal". Is this what I should be taking to the orange one in the wire harness I bought? That is needed to give the signal to the sub to turn on???
4. Splice a RCA cable and attach it to the base + and base - from both outputs on the HU.
5. Put everything back together???
I believe I shouldn't have too many issues but it would be great if someone could help with the few questions I do have there. Would at least ease my mind before I start on this job.
Thanks!!
I bought my new deck (AVH-P2400BT), metra kit for the dash and a generic wire harness for 98 and up honda/acura from futureshop (in canada). I just had a few questions but this is generally what I plan to do. 2003 Acura TL-S btw.
1. Get the old radio out. (No problems I can see with that).
2. Disconnect the EQ and remove it to just leave the green connector seen in a few pics near the start of this. (One question here is does the wire harness I bought connect to this directly? Also in the manual of the 03 acura it shows two diagrams on the same page, I believe I am using the first one on the left not the second one???).
3. Wire up everything pretty standard according to which is which between the harness of the HU and the wiring harness to the car. The only question I have here is the power antenna one that needs to be done for the sub. In my manual for my head unit it does not explicitly say this but I believe its a blue/white line that says "Connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto antenna relay control terminal". Is this what I should be taking to the orange one in the wire harness I bought? That is needed to give the signal to the sub to turn on???
4. Splice a RCA cable and attach it to the base + and base - from both outputs on the HU.
5. Put everything back together???
I believe I shouldn't have too many issues but it would be great if someone could help with the few questions I do have there. Would at least ease my mind before I start on this job.
Thanks!!
07-15-2012, 12:41 AM
#151
First try a success.
Hello and THANK YOU to all who have contributed to this thread.
I received my new JVC KD-A735BT from Crutchfield on July 11th. I spent the next two days prepping for the install. I studied the info in this thread extensively, and then prepped everything in advance. Soldered the harness, attached a 1 ft length of speaker wire to a single male RCA plug for splicing onto the Sub leads to be found in the factory EQ's green plug, purchaced an RCA "Y" connector from Radio Shack to convert the two Sub preamp outputs on the HU to a single RCA female. Finally,today, July 14th, armed with a wealth of knowledge on what to look for and expect to find, my brother and I quite easily installed my new HU, and we encountered very few surprises. It all went so smoothly, I thought for sure we must have missed something. Happily that was not the case, as we then powered the car on and everything worked flawlessly, including the factory BOSE Sub.
Thanks again to all involved here. I couldn't have done it without you.
I received my new JVC KD-A735BT from Crutchfield on July 11th. I spent the next two days prepping for the install. I studied the info in this thread extensively, and then prepped everything in advance. Soldered the harness, attached a 1 ft length of speaker wire to a single male RCA plug for splicing onto the Sub leads to be found in the factory EQ's green plug, purchaced an RCA "Y" connector from Radio Shack to convert the two Sub preamp outputs on the HU to a single RCA female. Finally,today, July 14th, armed with a wealth of knowledge on what to look for and expect to find, my brother and I quite easily installed my new HU, and we encountered very few surprises. It all went so smoothly, I thought for sure we must have missed something. Happily that was not the case, as we then powered the car on and everything worked flawlessly, including the factory BOSE Sub.
Thanks again to all involved here. I couldn't have done it without you.
08-12-2012, 08:09 AM
#152
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2 subs
So here is a new one for you guys. I have been running an extra 12" JL sub in the trunk with an amp and have kept the factory bose sub going as well - WITH the stock head unit. Now I am changing out the head unit and want to keep both subs going. My plan is to use the new HU sub out for the 12" JL sub, and then wire up the rig here from the rear speaker rca output to the factory sub. I wonder if the signal to the sub amp is already low pass or full. I guess I will find out today. I may try to keep the factory bose eq going so that it wont matter.
I am going to try wiring the rear speaker out rca's to the bose eq first - not sure how this is going to work till I get in there. I can't make total sense of it through the post.
Thanks for any insight!
I am going to try wiring the rear speaker out rca's to the bose eq first - not sure how this is going to work till I get in there. I can't make total sense of it through the post.
Thanks for any insight!
08-15-2012, 09:31 AM
#153
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Age: 36
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm trying to get that 6th screw out of the Bose EQ on the pax side and that screw is in there super tight and there's only enough room to get one hand in there. I've tried putting the screwdriver in there and using a wrench to move the handle, and I've tried putting a bit in the wrench but neither work. Any advice?!!? I'm so sad I've gotten so far and one damm screw is standing in my way of installing a perfect system.
08-15-2012, 07:32 PM
#154
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Age: 36
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got the screw out with a 90 degree screw driver but now I see two more screws below the pax side and driver's side. Do those need to come out?? If so how?! I don't see how to get them out.
The following users liked this post:
Posterchild63 (11-02-2012)
09-01-2012, 10:18 PM
#156
2nd Gear
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just got same head unit
I did it !!!
after a lot of research and the information from this thread, I finally thought it is doable and I did it - I replace the 2001 Acura TL factory HU with Clarion CX501, and keep all factory speaker and subwoofer working. it wasn't easy but here are a few tips for anyone want to do it:
1. after take out factory HU, you just need to remove 4 screws to take down the metal bracket that holds factory HU, and the BOSE EQ will come down with it. 2 screws inside and below climate control; 1 screw on the drive side of metal bracket, 1 screw on the passenger side of metal bracket.
2. since you are not going to use BOSE EQ anymore, so just cut off three lead from the 14Pin harness connects to the BOSE EQ, so it would be easier for you to connect these three to the sub out put from your new after market HU. the lead are Pin 3, Pin 10, Pin 1.
Pin 3 (BLU/GRN), Connet to Sub output (+) from your new HU
Pin 10 (ORN/BLU), connec to Sub output (-) from your new HU
Pin 1 (WHT/YEL), connect to 12V Radio Switched on power.
you basically remove and bypass the former BOSE EQ, and feed the preamp subwoofer signal from your new HU to the amplifier (that you don't need to know where the hell is this amplifier).
2. when turn on your new HU, make sure whether it has setting for Ext Sub On/Off and turn it on; I didn't hear the sound from sub even though I was convinced that all connection are correctly done. later when playing with new HU, I ran into this setting and turned it on and immediately the subwoofer from back seat came to live.
3. you would definitely better off to add steering wheel control adapter so you can adjust volume and forward the track, to make new HU an enjoyable.
I here post an image for how factory audio works and you will have better understanding and confidence on what you need to do - to get a new HU with USB/BT/IPod, while keeping factory speaker/subwoofer. after all, the factory speaker and subwooker is not that bad at all.
(the image is from googling many times; credit to a gentleman who years ago used Acura factory HU to outift his classic 64 Austin Mark 3 car )
oops I am not able to paste the image.
after a lot of research and the information from this thread, I finally thought it is doable and I did it - I replace the 2001 Acura TL factory HU with Clarion CX501, and keep all factory speaker and subwoofer working. it wasn't easy but here are a few tips for anyone want to do it:
1. after take out factory HU, you just need to remove 4 screws to take down the metal bracket that holds factory HU, and the BOSE EQ will come down with it. 2 screws inside and below climate control; 1 screw on the drive side of metal bracket, 1 screw on the passenger side of metal bracket.
2. since you are not going to use BOSE EQ anymore, so just cut off three lead from the 14Pin harness connects to the BOSE EQ, so it would be easier for you to connect these three to the sub out put from your new after market HU. the lead are Pin 3, Pin 10, Pin 1.
Pin 3 (BLU/GRN), Connet to Sub output (+) from your new HU
Pin 10 (ORN/BLU), connec to Sub output (-) from your new HU
Pin 1 (WHT/YEL), connect to 12V Radio Switched on power.
you basically remove and bypass the former BOSE EQ, and feed the preamp subwoofer signal from your new HU to the amplifier (that you don't need to know where the hell is this amplifier).
2. when turn on your new HU, make sure whether it has setting for Ext Sub On/Off and turn it on; I didn't hear the sound from sub even though I was convinced that all connection are correctly done. later when playing with new HU, I ran into this setting and turned it on and immediately the subwoofer from back seat came to live.
3. you would definitely better off to add steering wheel control adapter so you can adjust volume and forward the track, to make new HU an enjoyable.
I here post an image for how factory audio works and you will have better understanding and confidence on what you need to do - to get a new HU with USB/BT/IPod, while keeping factory speaker/subwoofer. after all, the factory speaker and subwooker is not that bad at all.
(the image is from googling many times; credit to a gentleman who years ago used Acura factory HU to outift his classic 64 Austin Mark 3 car )
oops I am not able to paste the image.
I got my HU from crutchfield and the radio switched on power was the red wire? did u do the same.
Still having no sound coming from SW. I also played with the settings in the HU and all I saw was the volume control for the SW which I set to 6. is there a ext Sub on/off setting.?Thanks.
09-04-2012, 10:01 AM
#157
2nd Gear
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I figured it out that S-Type has different Pin#. I followed pic taken by dro_15 (page 2 of thread) it showed the location of the orange/blue as there are 2 sets of them.
i plug back in the BOSE EQ.
use radio switch power on from harness to HU to power the amp. It was Blue (harness from crutchfield) to Blue (HU harness).
i plug back in the BOSE EQ.
use radio switch power on from harness to HU to power the amp. It was Blue (harness from crutchfield) to Blue (HU harness).
10-28-2012, 12:10 PM
#159
2nd Gear
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi all,
First, thanks to everyone for their advice on this.
I have followed Garrote's instructions exactly, and I am hearing a slight scratching noise from the subwoofer when I disconnect/reconnect the blue/green and orange/blue wires from the rca cable that I have connected to the subwoofer out jacks from the HU.
On the wiring harness I received from Crutchfield, the blue wire on that harness lines up with the orange wire from the factory harness. I then connected the blue/white (remote) wire from the HU harness to the blue wire on the aftermarket harness.
After doing all of this, my sub still doesn't seem to be working. Is the scratching noise that I hear normal? Is there something I am missing? I've checked to make sure that the subwoofer is turned on on the HU and the level is at 8. I am about to pull my hair out and just want to get my car put back together ASAP.
Thanks.
First, thanks to everyone for their advice on this.
I have followed Garrote's instructions exactly, and I am hearing a slight scratching noise from the subwoofer when I disconnect/reconnect the blue/green and orange/blue wires from the rca cable that I have connected to the subwoofer out jacks from the HU.
On the wiring harness I received from Crutchfield, the blue wire on that harness lines up with the orange wire from the factory harness. I then connected the blue/white (remote) wire from the HU harness to the blue wire on the aftermarket harness.
After doing all of this, my sub still doesn't seem to be working. Is the scratching noise that I hear normal? Is there something I am missing? I've checked to make sure that the subwoofer is turned on on the HU and the level is at 8. I am about to pull my hair out and just want to get my car put back together ASAP.
Thanks.
10-29-2012, 03:07 PM
#160
Intermediate
will this splitter work for sub outs?
Ive got a double male RCA on one end to a single 1/8" male stereo on the other.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=3449316#
Seems like this would work really well as the wires will already be separated when I cut the end off. I can't get my head around whether or not its doing the same thing as a double rca to single rca is doing??
Also, seems like some are only using a mono signal to the factory sub and some plug into both using a y splitter. Am I misreading that?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=3449316#
Seems like this would work really well as the wires will already be separated when I cut the end off. I can't get my head around whether or not its doing the same thing as a double rca to single rca is doing??
Also, seems like some are only using a mono signal to the factory sub and some plug into both using a y splitter. Am I misreading that?