Monk302

I am installing the HCB-30 and was wondering how I can power this. I really don't want to splice into an already existing line. Can I use one of the blank slots on the fuse block? I would like to do this method, is it difficult? If there are any alternatives please let me know.

Also, if anyone has gotten the HCE-16 to work with our cars please let me know how you did it.

thanks

elduderino

I never heard from you after my other post. Did you get what I thought you would get in your shipment?

It's VERY rare for a fuse location to have the terminals in it and not be used. I've pulled it off a few times, but you have to pull the FB to figure it out. <deleted mistaken FB terminal numbers - looking at wrong diagram> (fiancee's at her soccer game with the TSX, so I can't go look). I bet they don't.

The factory HF kit uses the Yellow/Black wire at the factory amplifier for Switched ACC, powered by fuse #32 under-dash. That's what I would use for ACC, since I see no sigh of the old Honda BAT and ACC terminals in the fuse box for installers to use... but the HCB-30 needs constant power as well, as I recall, to allow the phone-call-continuation-on-key-off feature. I think you're looking for a male terminal in the fuse box that's constant 12V, and if you don't find one, you are either tapping the radio constant in the audio connector or something like it.

It looks like the Acura HF Kit has an "interrupt" harness... and there is no "plug" in the center console for a phone (meaning you install their harness by unplugging connectors and plugging them into the "interrupt"harness, which re-connects the two sides of the car harness.)

Damn. The Mute wire isn't even in the head unit harness - the interrupt harness has it and goes in between the head unit and the car harness.

elduderino

Please note that I deleted the terminal numbers in the previous post - I was reading the list of terminal numbers when I thought it was the fuse list. Sorry about that.

Monk302

I actually just got the stuff today. The HCE-16 does look as you had described it. I was going to take off the fuse block and check the back but I think that will be too much work with the panel. So how are you recommending that I get the power to the unit. Should I tap it off another fuse, say #32 or should I splice it into something else?

This HCE-16 situation is approaching as if it may somewhat difficult to use because it doesn't have the 8 slot DIN. I actually went to go look at my old VW radio and it fit perfectly, too bad it won't work for ours.

As for the mute, I was looking on the 20 slot DIN wiring and it doesn't look like there is a lead for the mute. So how I am going to get this to work is baffling me.

Monk302

I am going to put up this link for the HCB-30 troubleshooting forum. Hopefully I will get a response from this but who knows.

http://www.expansys.com/forumthread....-30&thread=117

elduderino

I'm not certain what you mean by that. I think you mean that the wire is missing in the 20-pin connector on the factory radio? (technically, it's not a DIN...

This is how it should work on paper:

1) The HCE-16 disconnects a speaker from the car's radio and connects that speaker to the HCB-30. It does this with 2 relays that are inside the in-line plastic box on the harness. Those relays might handle the power of the TSX amp. Then again, they might not. They could be replaced with larger relays by someone who knew a bit.

2) Two of the five wires from the HCB-30 to the HCE-16 are speaker output wires. With a voltmeter and a BT phone, it shouldn't be hard to figure out which two they are.

3) There is a third relay in that box. I am not certain what it does, but I suspect it might be killing ACC to the radio. That way even if the radio has no Mute input, this thing still works. While that relay is certainly able to handle the ACC of the radio, I would probably get rid of the entire black box at this point and replace them all.

3) I assume your HCE-16 has a yellow wire that is labeled TEL MUTE (like mine). I don't know what the polarity of this output is (+ or -). It would be BAD to assume. One of the five wires from the HCB-30 to this plastic box will be a wire that triggers the MUTE function. It seems to be controlling two transistors that turn the relays on and off. Somebody with a working BT phone (I'd have to borrow from a friend) and a voltmeter needs to test this. I can test it when I get back after my trip.

4) The MUTE wire of the TSX seems to be missing from the connector (according to the Electrical manual. It would be in Pin A-14 of the 14-pin Light Blue connector on the back of the head unit. Looks reachable from below. Somebody (I was planning on doing it this week and haven't yet) needs to figure out the polarity of this input. I have a test I am going to do but there is an element of risk involved and so I am NOT sharing it on this board, so that no one gets mad at me if they blow up their radio trying the test themselves.

If the wire really is missing, and the Electrical manual says that it is missing, then you would have to:

A) Give up on it and install a relay that "breaks" 12V ACC to the radio, "muting" it by turning it off with a relay. Kinda stone-age.

B) Get the correct terminal from Acura, put it on a wire, and stick it in there. The Electrical manual supports the mechanic in replacing terminals so that harnesses don't have to be replaced, so they ahve to have the terminals available.

I intend to do "B".

If you were interested, I could take an HCE-16 harness and modify it so that:

- It used higher-current relays suitable for use with an amplifer (factory OR aftermarket).
- It had the Acura terminal built into it for the Mute input, and supplied the factory radio with the correct polarity signal for that input to work.

It would plug into your factory amp connector with Male and Female Honda connectors, plug into the factory radio with a single pin, plug into the HCB-30, and that would be it.

The Honda connectors that fit the speaker plug in the amp probably cost $10-12 each. One radio-side plug, one car-side plug. The work would look good and be reliable.

The only down side is that it would probably not be done for two weeks or so, due to my travel schedule. Let me know if that's what you want to do...

Sorry - wish it were simpler. Maybe I need to start making my own HCE-16 adapters for sale...

Monk302

At this point I think I would be interested on one of the HCE-16 that you modified. I think I may be take out the amplifier unit on the back to take a look and see what we are up against. I am going away for the weekend so this may have to wait to Monday but I am curious and it doesn't seem that hard to remove. Keep me updated with any developments.

Thanks

elduderino

OK, I will tackle this project as soon as I get back from my trip. I won't be able to access the Internet starting tomorrow night for one week, so don't think I am blowing this off or anything.

I will use my HCE-16 harness and add my own relays, and a pin from the dealer and a wire for the Mute function. I will see if I can use some Honda radio harnesses to grab power and speaker at the factory amp (I've seen some posts that state that the speaker-wire plug at the amp fits a regular Honda harness). Lord willin' and the crick don't rise, I should be able to make this whole thng plug and play.

In the meantime I will ask some of my crack agents to find out what polarity that Mute input is... if no data, I'll try my test.

Meanwhile, how many people here have HCB-30's who would care about a solution like this?

Monk302

Sounds good, keep me filled in with everything. Thanks for the assistance.