ash3ktl

I've done the EQ bypass and the wiring and all.
I connected the speaker outs to the line out converter and RCA wires to the amp in the trunck. When I checked the speaker outs using the multimeter, I don't get any reading at all. Also the output of the LOC shows no signal.
First I tried tapping into the speaker out wires. Then I tried cutting then and connecting them directly to the LOC. Tried changing the LOC gains also. Still no signal, no reading. Tried both AC and DC settings on the mutimeter. The amp also does not produce any output.

I have tried Navove LOC and also Scosche LOC. The amp is PPI PC2100. The amp turns on, I could see that.

Going CRAZY.....
Please HELP.

Brewboy

How exactly did you do the EQ bypass?

ash3ktl

Hey Brewboy,

You are always around to help me.
I did the bypass as per the instructions posted on this site, according to Iggy and Southbound, by connecting B1 to B3, B7 to B9 and B4 to B8. I don't see anything wrong with that. My Polks are running just fine on that. In fact the sound much fuller now, the dynamic range is good. I just don't seem to get the line out signal or the amp is dead. Is there any way to test the amp?

Brewboy

Ok, you bypassed the EQ and the doors are running fine from the HU. Now your trying to tap a pair of speaker outs to run to the trunk for an amp/sub via a LOC? You've tried two different LOCs and still nothing. I doubt two LOC's would be dead but stranger things happen. Your sub is connected correctly. If I remember back over the years, a few people had problems with the stock remote wire and certain amps. The remote wire provided enough power to turn on the LED but not enough to energize the relay internal to the amp, thus fooling them into thinking it was on. You could try two things, jumper a 12V signal directly from the fuse panel to the remote terminal on the amp to see if the additional amperage works. Or, if you have an old boombox or desk stereo with a tape in/out RCA's or a portable discman or something, you could feed it with the LOC to see if there's a signal and/or feed it to your amp to see if its working. Troubleshooting is tedious. Just work backwards intil you find it. Good luck.

BTW, weren't you going to use the Koda's or was that somebody else?

ash3ktl

Brewboy,

I did try the Discman trick, also I checked the remote turn voltage with mutimeter. It showed 4 volts. I think thats what it should be, isn't it?

Yeah, I'm the one who's trying the kodas. The good news is I tried 1.25" spacers, thought they were too much. So I tried 1" spacers and guess what, they fit perfectly. The speaker magnet is not touching the glass. There's like 1/4"-1/2" space left. I have also covered the back of the magnets with sponge, just to be safe. I was so excited with the outcome.... But this amp thing is just driving me crazy. I'll try 12V jumper signal form the fuse panel. Do you know which one? I'll also try with the multimeter.

And just an FYI if that helps... the amp I'm talking abt will be used to drive the Kodas in the front. I'm going to drive the rear polks thru the stock HU. When this thing is over, I'll do the sub.

Thanks for the suggestions...

Iggy

Ash,
Sounds like you have everything wired properly so I am with Brewboy regaurding the remote voltage being too low. A real quick and dirty test would be to put a jumper wire between the amp power feed and the remote on lead. If the amp comes on and makes music then you can tap into a switched fuse from the front. I don't remember off hand exactly which one.

Good luck,
Iggy

Brewboy

It sounds like your set-up will be like mine. Amp new fronts, stock rears on the HU, and new amp/sub. Not to confuse you, but there is another way to hook-up without having to physically bypass the EQ. You could tap/run the low-level signal directly from the HU to your amp instead of using a LOC while leaving the EQ'd rears on the HU. But, this will allow you to only fade the rears in/out, the fronts will not. The volume/balance/tone/bass will work for both as usual. I don't play the rears so this set-up works perfect for me and I don't need add the LOC to the circuit. I know it won't solve your problem, just thought I'd throw it out.

ash3ktl

Guys, u were right, the remote turn on signal was too low.
I hooked up the amp to the 12V signal from the fuse panel and it worked.!!!!! Now I have another issue. I guess while going over a bump something happened. I lost that signal now. I mean the same wire I used to for the remote turn on is dead so is the HU.
I guess a blew the fuse or something. God, it never ends....
Any ideas??

Brewboy,
I wish I knew your trick before all the trouble I had.

Thanks for the help guys.

ash3ktl

Got it!!! The line tapped from the fuse panel got shorted, blew the fuse. Just replaced it and is working fine now.

Tested the LOC also, is just fine. To eliminate the POP when HU turned on probably use the relay. But I'm happy with the outcome.

Thanks guys