TL: Is this a good sound system upgrade?
#1
Is this a good sound system upgrade?
I'm thinking about changing the whole system in my TL eventually.As of right now I'm thinking of installing the Pioneer AVH-P3200BT.
but then eventually get:
Amplifier: Infinity Kappa Five
Front Speakers:Sony Xplod XS-GTX1620S(Components)
Rear Speakers:Kenwood KFC-P509PS(Components)
Rear Deck Subwoofer:Pioneer TS-SW841D
I'm just looking at a pretty decent system
but then eventually get:
Amplifier: Infinity Kappa Five
Front Speakers:Sony Xplod XS-GTX1620S(Components)
Rear Speakers:Kenwood KFC-P509PS(Components)
Rear Deck Subwoofer:Pioneer TS-SW841D
I'm just looking at a pretty decent system
#5
I agree, at the very least swap the sony's for some co-axials and put the kenwoods up front. I've never been a fan of sony speakers and I've been installing this stuff for 10 years. I have the same sub in my car, works great. Good luck with your upgrade.
#7
so get rid of the sony components and put the 5 1/4" kenwood component setup up front and some co-axials in the rear?
does getting 5 1/4" matter over 6 1/2' if i'm just going to have them set to hpf?
is the class d amp alright even tho by the specs its a little better(to me) then the infinity reference 5250a?
plusthe kappa five will give more power to the pioneer IB sub
does getting 5 1/4" matter over 6 1/2' if i'm just going to have them set to hpf?
is the class d amp alright even tho by the specs its a little better(to me) then the infinity reference 5250a?
plusthe kappa five will give more power to the pioneer IB sub
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#9
so get rid of the sony components and put the 5 1/4" kenwood component setup up front and some co-axials in the rear?
does getting 5 1/4" matter over 6 1/2' if i'm just going to have them set to hpf?
is the class d amp alright even tho by the specs its a little better(to me) then the infinity reference 5250a?
plusthe kappa five will give more power to the pioneer IB sub
does getting 5 1/4" matter over 6 1/2' if i'm just going to have them set to hpf?
is the class d amp alright even tho by the specs its a little better(to me) then the infinity reference 5250a?
plusthe kappa five will give more power to the pioneer IB sub
#11
crutchfeild blows man. Trust me, as long as you get some 3/4" spacers, nearly any 6.5 comp will fit. I personally have the Boston Acoustic 6.5 pro components up front and the Boston Acoustic SL 65 in the rear. I used spacers to get the clearance I needed, but they fit fine and sound great.
#13
do these sount ok?
front: 6 3/4" component Boston Acoustics SC60
rear: 6 1/2" shallow mount Polk Audio db651s
front: 6 3/4" component Boston Acoustics SC60
rear: 6 1/2" shallow mount Polk Audio db651s
#14
taking your advise here are the two amps i'm firmly sticking with
Mono(for the sub): Pioneer GM-D500M(@ 200w rms x1 @ 4 ohms)
4 Channel(door speakers:Pioneer GM-6400F(@ 60w rms x 4 @ 4 ohms)
is the sub amp to powerful for the pioneer shallow sub(which is at 120rms @ 4 ohms)?or is it just enough due to the fact its in a free-air enviroment?
Mono(for the sub): Pioneer GM-D500M(@ 200w rms x1 @ 4 ohms)
4 Channel(door speakers:Pioneer GM-6400F(@ 60w rms x 4 @ 4 ohms)
is the sub amp to powerful for the pioneer shallow sub(which is at 120rms @ 4 ohms)?or is it just enough due to the fact its in a free-air enviroment?
#15
That sub amp should be good, I have 300 w running to mine. The Boston speakers are great, and yes if you install the spacers, then there is no need for adapters, but you will still need spacers for the rear also. I ran the 1" spacers in the front and the 3/4" spacers in the rear. I got mine from www.sonicelectronix.com They also have much better prices than crutchfield.
#18
i'm using sonic electronix also i just use my crutchfield account to save all the pieces that i need then when it comes time I'll buy from s.e
where you get your 8" baffle tho?
and about the spacers,did they come with the boston acoustics or you have to find them?
where you get your 8" baffle tho?
and about the spacers,did they come with the boston acoustics or you have to find them?
#20
is this baffle big enough for the sub?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT80...h+baffle&ssi=0
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT80...h+baffle&ssi=0
#21
The spacers are on the S.E. site, it's under installation accesories. They have 1" ones and 3/4" ones. The baffle I found on crutchfield, S.E. has them, but not in an 8". Also, FYI, you can make a wishlist on the S.E. site and save it, then when you are ready, pull it up and add items to your cart and check out.
Last edited by nbp03tl-s; 02-23-2010 at 11:21 PM.
#22
is this baffle big enough for the sub?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT80...h+baffle&ssi=0
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT80...h+baffle&ssi=0
#23
Jerzyboi....did you decide what speakers/amp combo you'll go with? If you haven't, here's my .02cents. I'm partial to Polk Audio and believe for the money, they sound excellent and provide very rich, detailed sound reproduction. Personally, I would not go with 2 brands of speakers because each manufacture has their destinctive sound. As for the amp, I run Alpine's MRV-f450 5 channel and it's plenty of power for my front Polk seps, rear Polk 6x9s, and 1-10" Polk DVC sub. All this is controlled by my DSP.
Go to the store, bring your favorite CD, and listen to a wealth of speakers.Your ears will tell you exactly what you need to buy. Good luck...
Go to the store, bring your favorite CD, and listen to a wealth of speakers.Your ears will tell you exactly what you need to buy. Good luck...
#24
i'm also thinking about getting baffles for all of the door speakers is this over kill?
for the sub,did you just drop it in or did you have to do any modifying to get it in.
and zcspec i'm going with all boston acoustics(components up front and co axials similiar to the setup in nbp03tl-s' car)
#26
oh you had to trim it so it would be able to fit under the retaining bar?
i'm also thinking about getting baffles for all of the door speakers is this over kill?
for the sub,did you just drop it in or did you have to do any modifying to get it in.
and zcspec i'm going with all boston acoustics(components up front and co axials similiar to the setup in nbp03tl-s' car)
i'm also thinking about getting baffles for all of the door speakers is this over kill?
for the sub,did you just drop it in or did you have to do any modifying to get it in.
and zcspec i'm going with all boston acoustics(components up front and co axials similiar to the setup in nbp03tl-s' car)
#27
[quote=nbp03tl-s;11771516]but even more effective are the dynamat squares you put in the door behind the speakers.quote]
I'll 2nd this...I just completed "dynamatted" my front doors. This resulted in signficant reduction in vibration and sound distortion.
I'll 2nd this...I just completed "dynamatted" my front doors. This resulted in signficant reduction in vibration and sound distortion.
#28
Dynamat is not the best product for the job, just the most well known... I personally prefer Second Skin Damplifier Pro. It's hands down the best deadener on the market (well, the most available best product out there). There are some European companies that make a decent product, but they're hard as hell to get.
Check out Damp Pro and all the other Second Skin goodies at: www.secondskinaudio.com
And I gained .5db in my testing using ~12 sq ft of Damp Pro on my door skins. So this stuff really does work.
Check out Damp Pro and all the other Second Skin goodies at: www.secondskinaudio.com
And I gained .5db in my testing using ~12 sq ft of Damp Pro on my door skins. So this stuff really does work.
#29
good thing the pioneer sub drops right in.I was going to use the earthquake sws-8 but i wasn't sure about the longevity of their products.
I'm still baffled about 2 more things
if you use the baffles do you cut holes for speaker wires? and is it worth getting 2 separates amps over one amp?( i ask due to the extra wiring and extra power draw or will this be a non factor)
I'm still baffled about 2 more things
if you use the baffles do you cut holes for speaker wires? and is it worth getting 2 separates amps over one amp?( i ask due to the extra wiring and extra power draw or will this be a non factor)
#30
You're going to have to get the speaker wire in there somehow. Might as well just cut a couple holes in those "baffle" rubber pieces. I still don't see a point in using those. But hey, if you want to spend the money on them, be my guest.
2 amps won't necessarily draw more current than 1 amp. Think about it this way, if they're outputing the same amount of power, the amps are probably going to need roughly the same amount of input power. It doesn't matter if you're using 1 amp or 2.
2 amps won't necessarily draw more current than 1 amp. Think about it this way, if they're outputing the same amount of power, the amps are probably going to need roughly the same amount of input power. It doesn't matter if you're using 1 amp or 2.
#31
I just cut a hole in the baffle for the wire and sealed it with silicone. Like I said before I didn't use baffles in the doors, and I wasn't saying you should dynamat the entire door, not that it's a bad idea, just not a necessary expense unless you are going all out. What I was referring to was these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Pak+11800.html, I was saying just use these instead of baffles in the doors.
#32
I just cut a hole in the baffle for the wire and sealed it with silicone. Like I said before I didn't use baffles in the doors, and I wasn't saying you should dynamat the entire door, not that it's a bad idea, just not a necessary expense unless you are going all out. What I was referring to was these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Pak+11800.html, I was saying just use these instead of baffles in the doors.