Bfor3

iTrader: (2)

For under $1,000 this is about the best set-up to get and YES I'm very pleased with everything! I don't see a need to get a different head unit cuz it works very well, unless your going to compete!!! Well here it is...

Bfor3

iTrader: (2)

Well it says it's too big and I don't remember how to make it smaller so you can go to my sig. and go to pics...

4 Polk DX6's 6 1/2 Coax = $129
1 Alpine MRVF-401 4 Channel Amp = $159
1 PPI PC 2100 Bridged Amp 400W = $429
1 12W3 JL Audio Sub + Box = $200 Total = $917 not install

Being able to smoke most cars while bumpin' Snoop on freeway = PRICELESS

2002 TL-TYPE S SSM NAVLESS
35% Tint / AEM CAI Silver / Redline 5W20 Oil / Redline MTL (protect our strong tranny's) /NGK Iridium plugs (6441) / Neuspeed STB / APEXi N1 WS Coilovers(DOPE) / Custom Clear Headlights / Razo Premium White 9006 Fogs / Polarg Front + Rear Turn Sigs. -ICE- 4 Polk DX-6 6 1/2 Coax / Alpine 4 Channel Amp/ PPI PC 2100 Amp / 12W3 JL Audio Sub
---future mods---
19" ??? / MUGEN rear wing - ordered
Pics: www.community.webshots.com/user/bfor3

miwa

heh .. congrats, bfor3. I'm sure you're gonna be relishing in the sweet sounds. I, too, am undergoing an audio upgrade and I can't wait for it to be finished!

but yea, I couldn't believe how silly the stock speakers were. I really thought it'd been nicer than what it is. But then again, if you DO look at it and the way they were built, you gotta realize they were pretty good sounding for simple paper thin cones. I really expected something slightly more robust from hearing them belting out decent midrange.

Southbound

Congrats BFOR3!

How many watts is the Alpine putting out to each door speaker? Did you have them bypass the EQ, and did they know what they were doing? Did they feed your amp from the head unit speaker lines, meaning that you still have fader control?

I guess my bottom line question is... If you can neglect the super subwoofer upgrade, what do you think made the biggest difference to your door speakers? Was it bypassing the EQ or the new amp? Or was it all done at once so that you couldn't really tell which had what effect? So do the POLKS still hold together and sound good when driven by another decent amp, or do you now find youself wanting better door speakers since you added the extra amp? Did you see the dash torn apart? I'm still wondering how much work bypassing the EQ is to do myself? With my past experience, it's just really hard for me to trust anybody else with my car. But I'm at the point where I just don't have the time and energy to tackle these types of chores myself anymore... so I've got to find somebody to trust... I WISH I HAD IGGY NEARBY! HE'S DONE SOME REALLY NICE WORK BY HIMSELF!!! In any case, I take it that you still have the stock head unit and are happy by just using its simple bass and treble controls? I wouldn't want to replace the HU either just because of the stock look and 6CD, etc.

I'm completely swamped at work this week because I'm going on vacation next week, but yeah, I'd like to check it out some day. You are right, though, I'll just end up needing to do something more myself.... IT NEVER ENDS... BUT TELL ME IT GETS CLOSE ENOUGH TO ACTUALLY BE SATISFIED...

ENJOY! and thanks for helping me out with my back seat set...

OH YEAH, I'm at 3000 miles now and time for an oil change... WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR REDLINE 5W20? Is it synthetic or conventional oil???? I was at the dealer to buy some oil filters, and tranny fluid the other day. (I plan to drain the tranny just to examine the fluid right away. It will either help me to sleep or not at night). Anyway, the dealer said that they had received a service bulletin from Acura that said they were to use ONLY 5W20 weight oil in thier oil changes. He said it was to maintain performance. They have to get it by the case in quart size containers for the TL/TLS. It's conventional motor oil made by MOBIL according to HONDA MOTOR CORP specs. I saw a quart of it and it was in a HONDA bottle, but it did say made by MOBIL OIL CORP... They wanted like $2.75 per quart for it. I didn't buy any yet because I just feel better with synthetic oil so that I can actually go 5000 miles between changes without feeling guilty... But I digress as usual!



Southbound

Bfor3

iTrader: (2)

I can truely say that I'm very plzd now!!! I don't want to do anything else to the system and it is very loud now!!! I didn't do the work myself so I don't know how hard or not it was to bypass??? but I got the work done at Competition Soundworks in Cerritos, CA. There the only ones I trust with my car at all!!! If anything ever goes wrong just take it in and it's fixed free of charge for life, and I do mean that!!! YES IT COSTS A LOT TO DO THE FIRST TIME! but you never have to think about it again, and that's worth it to me! You could see they use monster wires and the placement of the PPI amp is very clean!!! I still have a very big trunk and If I'm going on a trip and I need the whole trunk, just undo the wires and pull the box out! Yes fader still works.

My first oil change, I used the dealers 5w20 as well, just because, then on my 2nd one I went with the Redline. The dealers oil filter I still think is the best but yeah the Redline is the best oil out there, so it's in my car! At pep boys or something I don't think U will find any 5W20 Syn. oil, you have to go to a performance shop and have them order it 4 U! I just ordered a whole case, and I don't think I'm going to change my oil until 7,500 miles on this oil!!!!

When U get back from vac. I could come down and we could unplug the Box and just run the Polk's and C 4 Ur self> By the way I have them hook up ur Capacitor resistor thing, Thank You Southbound!!!!!!!!!