dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I might just upgrade to teh JL 1000/1 and was wondering what is better a Batcap or a 2nd battery or should I just upgrade the factory battery. I think it was streetz who said just upgrade the factory battery and that should be fine?

car_lost

i dunno what the hell a batcap is, but if your gonna be running 1000watts... you should just upgrade the battery. if u lreave it as it is now, the headlights will probably dim evertime ur system hits hard, so an upgraded battery will take care of that.

1999TL

Batcaps are good batteries. I'd upgrade the battery under the hood first.

njtls

ive got a second battery and i think it was helpfull...i have no fear of draining my normal car battery now....and i can run my system even if my car was off...the only downside i think is that it weighs alot...

stinkboy

yellow top optima, enough said.

josh stein

How can you have a second battery? Where does it go and how is it wired so it can re-charge from the alternator?

njtls

well if your gonna replace your battery...why throw out the one in your car when you can have 2 instead...you might aswell

bozzchem

I checked their website and couldn't get a model number to fit the 2003 TLS. What is the model number you're using?

My JBL BP1200.1 is making my lights dance like a friggin spectrum analyzer or something. I'm thinking of going with a two battery setup since njtls made an excellent point concerning why not go with two if you own two.

I'd also like to hear from someone concerning josh stein's post. If you've got a two battery setup, how did you do it?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

again when I was talkin to teh JL people they said adding a second battery also puts a burbon on the Alt. If u just upgrade the factory battery our TLs should be fine up to 1700 watts if the system isnt allways dogged out.

njtls

my battery is in my trunk behind my box..so you cant see it...i had it installed by streeteffectz so maybe he can add allitlle more to this..but from what i understand...the alternator instead of bringing juice to the stock battery..brings it to a battery isolator (which you have to purchase) which then splits it to the two batteries...im not sure..but i think it makes sure the stock battery is fully charged before it starts charging the extra one...and the extra one should be a good battery..that wont go bad with draining and recharging...cause it might not always be gettign charged (i used a yellow top)...i think it works well...i never have any problems with lights dimming and i can run the system without the engine running, altho i dont really do that...as for what dnd2984 said about the second battery still putting a burdon on the alt...it makes sense...whether you have the second batter or not..your still drawing the same amount of poer to run your system...so the alt still eventually has to replace the power you drained from the battery...but this way..atleast you can run other electrical stuff with out worrying aobut running out of power...i think that covers it..any questions?

njtls

oh..and i read on the rockford fosgate site that a 120 amp alt is good for 1500 watts...but like you dont want to run it at the limit...cause once you turn on the ac and headlights your drawing more then that...thats why i went with the second batt...even tho i'm "only" running 1500 watts

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

hey u still got the stock speakers and headunit right. I was wondering casue I was in a accord last week that had a MTX 1500 and 2 L7s and he had a small coustic amp to his mids and highs and it just wasnt doing it for me.

When your bass hits do your lights still dim?

njtls

yeah stok speakers and headunit right now....and no my lights dont dim..not with the second batery...

1999TL

Bapcap>Optima yellow top

njtls

batcap is better then a optima yelow top?...i want one...what is a brand i can look for?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

BATCAP is not a battery. its a pimped out cap.

1999TL

Batcap 800.

NsX Pilot

Unless your planning on playing your system without running your car i would not suggest getting a second battery as each additional battery also adds a load on your alternator....unless you use a battery isolator in which case the alternator switches between the two batteries and only charges one at a time and >>> isolates<<< it from the other one. I would still suggest getting one or more large capacitors because they provide instant power on demand and recharge in no time... they also help to smooth out and regulate the voltage during peak demands of power.Before i forget, if you are doing a multi-battery set up make sure you get a isolator that is rated for your application.Ohh and this last thought...Optima Batteries or the exide orbital which is the equivelant are lower in resistance to lead acid batteries and provide the same if not more CCA's and standby time which will also be an advantage ....do not mix and match batteries either .....meaning a deepcycle battery and regular one.

bozzchem

I hate to say that I find that very hard to believe. If the alternator puts out 120 amps, that means the sound system can't pull much more than 100 or so without affecting the longevity of the alternator.

Check the calculation specs on this page: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm

Go to the links on the right hand side and click the one labeled "Wire". Based on the amperage requirements of my particular system, I'm going to put the IDMAX back at 4 ohms and give it the 600+W that only costs me 54 amps vs. the 1 ohm load 1200W setup that is costing me 109 amps.

It looks to me like the only way to truly remedy the situation is to upgrade the alternator to roughly 180 amps or so. Since I'm not ready to go that route....yet....I'll see if I can live with the 4 ohm setup now that I was informed about the JBL mod and have heard the difference it made.

YMMV, but I think this site is worth a look. You can input all of the wiring characteristics as well as Class AB vs D to get the total amperage draw of your system. If it's over 120 amps, it's only a matter of time before your alternator dies...which won't be covered under warranty when they see your sound system!

Keep in mind what that number jumps to when you have the headlights, AC/Heat, and wipers on!

bozzchem

BTW, somebody PLEASE tell me I'm wrong about this! I really think I'm going to miss the 1200W setup but I'll miss my alternator even more!!!

When I went to the "Power Design Assistant" at the website I listed previously and input my front class AB amp at 300W and my rear class D amp at 1200W, the combined amperage draw was 152 amps!! There's no way in hell a 120 amp alternator is going to keep that up for long. By dropping the class D to 600W, my total draw will be 97 amps. That shouldn't be too big of a problem for a 120 amp alternator....until you add the headlights, fog lights, wipers, heater/AC, etc.

I'm sorry I'm rambling on about this but I'm really trying to figure out the best approach to take to remedy this situation.

Thoughts?

It costs nothing to rewire the sub. I figure the alternator will be ~$200 or so.