BEETROOT

hey what size are the front speakers in the cl? I can't remember.. 6 1/2 or 5 1/4?

DetroitCL-S

Well I've dropped just over 900 on the head unit and amp...

So I figure 300-400 with box...I'm looking for tight clean bass...that will be plenty loud if I max it out, but not distorted.

The reason i like the eclipse is because it has a 400w rms and mine is 250w, so i can crank it up all the way.

DetroitCL-S

crutch field says both

DetroitCL-S

Rear speakers: 6x9 Coaxial
Manufacturer: Bose Model No. 352548-001
Made in Indonesia.

Front Mids: 6.5" Single Cone
Manufacturer: Bose Model No. 190580-001
Made in Thailand.

Tweeters: 1"
Manufacturer: ???? (assumed Bose) Model No. S3M 250447
Made in China.

BEETROOT

wow crutchfield reviewed the 2nd gen finally? it didn't used to be in the database...

blader

front speakers on the CL are 6.5in. I don't know where they would get 5 1\4in from. Crutchfield doesnt even have any information on the CL because they have never researched one. However watch the mounting depth, I had to build spacers out of 3\4in mdf because they hit the window when it was in the door.

You never mentioned what your musical taste was?

DetroitCL-S

actually the first thread in the a/v forum has a specs link...that's where i got it from.

babyloc86

u shouldnt get 500/5. get a 4 channel amp for ur speaker and get a different amp for your sub. it will be a better choice.

DetroitCL-S

too late...it's bought and paid for...and i still need some room in the car for work and my hockey equipment.

Is it that bad of a choice? It won't be loud enough or something?

BEETROOT

JL makes great subs. I'm a big fan of infinity's subs too. I have an infinity kappa perfect 12 vq in a sealed q logic box right now, and it sounds great. If you don't go with JL I would recommend this.









http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HPgsjbY...0&I=108PER12VQ





http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HPgsjbY...0&I=044QLHCS12

DetroitCL-S

sorry missed that...I like everything...but country...i like rap but I also enjoy rock and classical sometime...I'd say i listen to rap 50% of the time...rock 40% of the time and classical 10% of the time.

DetroitCL-S

that one sounds pretty sweet...thanks BEETROOT

blader

hmm .. I would buy a 12w6v2.

Eric Holdaway in a March 2004 issue of Car Audio and Electronics said that the 12w6v2 is the best sounding subwoofer he has ever tested for CA&E.

The twelve will get nice and low for that rap bass but still be efficient and quick to snap out those rock natural drum beats. If you listened to rock (edit) the most I'd say go with a 10w6v2 because the smaller subwoofer will react quicker to the drums in rock music. It will also play rap really well but won't get quite as low as the twelve .. either the 10 or the 12 is a good choice but the twelve probably better suited.

I bought my 10w6v2 at a local shop for 240 cash. and I bought a prefabbed SubZone box for 55$ cash at another local shop. this will stay right under your budget.

babyloc86

he bought 500/5 jl amp already.
with only 250 rsm watts pushing, it can not give full power or even close to full power to push the 12 w6v2 subs which is 400 watt rms

DetroitCL-S

thanks for the info blader...do you guys think the eclipse is good or is that not as good as the infinity and jl...i know blader is partial to jl...and i've heard a jl 12w1 and it was super loud inside a house...so I think the 10w6v2 would be more than adequate for my acura...and music tastes...

BEETROOT

do you have a link to anywhere online that sells the eclipse you are looking at?

blader

um, So? The JL amps are slightly underrated, in reality the amp will probably put out somewhere between 250 and 300 watts from the sub output. He won't meet the RMS rating of the sub but we have to deal with what we have. Going with a lower quality sub with a lower rms rating won't really help anything.

I mean if you really wanted to, you could go with a 12w3v2 or a 10w3v2 but that is up to you. Power handling on these are 300 watts RMS. they are considerably cheaper .. there is one going for 100$ new in box on ebay. They are decent.

DetroitCL-S

http://www.eclipse-web.com/index_speaker.html

this is 189.00

oops...it's the 7104 t4

and by the way...what's the difference between 4 ohm and 2ohm?

BEETROOT

Ohm
The unit of measurement for impedance or resistance. It tells you how much a device will resist the flow of current. If you take two signals of exactly the same strength and send one to a 4-ohm speaker and the other to an 8-ohm speaker, twice as much current will flow through the 4-ohm speaker. In other words, the 8-ohm speaker will require twice as much power (wattage) to play at the same volume.



and extend this from 4 ohms to 2 ohms...

blader

Don't really know anything about the eclipse. Like I said the last time I researched them was like 3 years ago, and nobody was using anything but their top of the line Titanium model .. but at 600$ a pop. Go to a site like www.caraudioforum.com or www.carsound.com and search their forum for more information or people who are using them.

but I don't have to tell you which company my vote goes to

as for the ohm .. an ohm is a unit of measure for the resistance of an object. Every speaker has a resistance to electrical current.

For example: If you are at the beach, it is more difficult for you to walk down the beach when your feet in the water than if you were just on the harder sand, because the water puts a resistance on you.

The standard for all aftermarket and most stock midrange and high range speakers (the 6.5in speakers and 6x9's) are 4 ohm. With the exception of the stock CL speakers, which bose decided to make two ohm for some reason.

Most amps have a 4 ohm rating, and then a separate 2 ohm rating (and some go down to one ohm or even a half ohm). For example a sony amp might be rated at 800 watts to one channel at 2 ohms, but only 400 watts to one channel at 4 ohms. Usually when you double the resistance you cut the wattage in half.

However you dont really have to worry about that because the JL amps have a RIPS (Regulated Internal Power Supply). It automatically detects the resistance of the speaker connected to it and adjusts accordingly to always put out the same amount of watts. It can do this with anything between 1.5 and 4 ohms. So whether you buy a 2 ohm or 4 ohm it will still put out 250 watts.

Do you know what a dual voice coil subwoofer is?

DetroitCL-S

thanks for the advice and i don't know what a dual voice coile subwoofer is...

but i am definately getting 4 ohms then...it makes much more sense now...thanks blader.

blader

Well dual voice coil takes it to a whole nother level. It increases flexibility. and both of those subwoofers are DVC.

a DVC 2 ohm has two voice coils, two ohms a piece. They can be wired in parallel to make the whole subwoofer a 1 ohm subwoofer. or wired in series to make the whole sub a 4 ohm sub, but can never be made anything besides 1 or 4 ohm. the 4 ohm can be wired in series to 8 ohm, or parallel to 2 ohm.

When you wire in series, you double the ohm rating. When you parallel wire, you cut it in half.

But either sub would work for you. If you got the DVC 2 ohm you would have to parallel wire it for a 4 ohm load because the JL amp cannot use a 1 ohm load. or you could make the DVC 4 ohm sub a 2 ohm load which would also work on the amp.

DetroitCL-S

Thanks for all the help fellas...

With a lot of assistance from my cousin, I have my headunit (Alpine 9835), Amp (JL 500/5), and subwoofer (10" Diamond CM310D) installed. I have the subwoofer cone directed toward the cabin of the vehicle and left the rear console open as well. For $119 bucks with enclosure, the diamond sub is pretty nice. The headunit is nice, and the amp is just sick. I didn't realize how nice it is. I mounted it in the floor space directly behind the drivers seat, and it fits like a glove, the wires run under the carpet for a nice clean look.

I purchased the diamond because it was a relatively inexpensive subwoofer, but after hearing my friends JL 12W0 in it, I think I'll be getting a 12" JL sooner than later. I went ahead and kept the stock speakers in to see if there was an improvement.

Indeed there was. But I blew out the 6x9's and I have to imagine the front speakers are going to blow as well.

So I'm going to replace the speakers next.

Is it necessary to rewire the entire car for new components? I imagine that would be a miserable task to complete if it's necessary.

My amp puts out 100w RMS to the each of the front speakers...I have focused my sights on the following...

MB Quart Premium 6.5
Boston Pro 6.5 (discontinued series)
Boston RC620 (discontinuted series)
JL XR 6.5 components...

Any recommendations on the components and the rewiring of the car would be greatly appreciated.

blader

You should've went with the JL subwoofer to begin with, I told you

You bet its a miserable task to rewire, but it generally has to be done. I don't think I would want 100 watts traveling across the stock speaker wiring. I guess you could get away with it, but it would be the pinnacle of ghetto.

You will find that the hardest task will be getting the wire from the door to the cabin through the rubber boot. If you need help with this, let me know, it took me a while but I can give you a few hints.

As for speakers, I went with the JL XR 6.5in components. Good price and 90% of the reviews I read liked them. I like them as well. Certainly not the best set out there but for the price I don't think they can be beat. If I was going to spend more money I might've went with the Diamond Hex's, but I also wanted to keep the whole system JL. For 6x9's I just went with the bottom of the line JL's, the TR's, because you don't really need good 6x9's .. all you'll really hear from them is midbass. You want the good sound up front. I got the 6x9's for 115 shipped new off ebay and the I dont recall what the components were, I think 240? not sure.