jz983

Hey man. quick question. I've seen pictures of your installs and they are the sh*t. Question though. I have a 96 2.5 TL. I want to know, how exactly do you make that flush "wall" for the trunk? Do you know what I mean? I have one sub now. Do I get one big piece of wood (MDF) and just measure it out and cut out? How do I attach the wood to the car so it is secure and won't more.

like how you did bdimc2001's system:



I am doing this all myself and I am new at this. But I would really like to learn.

Austin519

jz983:
"Hey man. quick question. I've seen pictures of your installs and they are the sh*t. Question though. I have a 96 2.5 TL. I want to know, how exactly do you make that flush "wall" for the trunk? Do you know what I mean? I have one sub now. Do I get one big piece of wood (MDF) and just measure it out and cut out? How do I attach the wood to the car so it is secure and won't more."

Hey bud...the best way to learn is to do! I congratulate you!!! From what it looks like in that picture I can tell you what he did. I'll reference the pic I attached (which I did with MS Paint...so no, you can't make fun of me . First he constructed the box for the JL sub...separate of anything else and carpeted it (see A). That's why you see the seams in the "wall". He then constructed the two "wall" pieces (see B), and mated them to the box. If I also had to guess, he probably used L brackets to secure the "wall" pieces to the box (back where you can't see it behind the pieces), as well as to the floor...and most likely the rear deck as well (or at least I hope). The "wall" pieces were made out of 3/4 or larger MDF, cut to leave space for the disc changer and the trunk arms (see top left and right). Third, he built up the floor to allow him to install the amp "into" the floor, and you can tell by the valleys left on either side of the trunk (see C). This was also done quite simply with just cut MDF, and carpeted. In order of building this however...I'm sure he did C, then A, then B. The "wall" pieces would come last. Not too difficult of an install...but it looks good. Definitely a good project to start on since all you need is a good saw, jigsaw, sander, adhesive spray, carpet, L brackets, and patience! Hope that helped.

And I bet if you bug StreetEffectz enough you can get his busy arse in here to verify!

Austin519

jz983

hey man. thank you. you are a big help.
i appreciate it.... gonna get started sometime, when i get all the components.

Austin519

jz983:
NP man...good luck!

Austin519

SilverKnight

Dont go around and disassemble (sp?) other ppl's works

Got a problem for you to solve. Dont kill yourself solving it

If you are so good, design me a trunk with a sealed box for 2 10W6s facing forward with plexi window (rear of box) to show the subs, 1 JL 300/4, 1 JL 250/1, 1 1Fad Cap with LEDs, 1 8-disc changer, 1 distributor block for 4gauge wires, 1 brain for the Panasonic screen (has to be accessible), 2 slots for MB Quart X-overs with minimum lost trunk room.

I have to be able to access the spare, jack and tool tray. Of course, your design has to be do-able and nice looking.

Solve that and I'' to you and call you "master"



Hey man, hurry and start installing your stuff. I wanna make a trip to Austin and get some opinions before I gave the CL's trunk a make-over.

Austin519

SilverKnight:

"Dont go around and disassemble (sp?) other ppl's works"
I'm sure StreetEffectz will agree...you can disassemble most anything by looking at it if you've done it before. The skill, and art, is in doing it. I can give him all kinds of schematics and diagrams and measurements, but the skill in it is the doing, not the planning. So I'm not worried. I'll be more than happy to disassemble my entire audio project for anyone that wants it...in fact I plan on posting the whole thing in pictures and a DIY...

"Got a problem for you to solve. Dont kill yourself solving it."
I'll try not to

"If you are so good, design me a trunk with a sealed box for 2 10W6s facing forward with plexi window (rear of box) to show the subs, 1 JL 300/4, 1 JL 250/1, 1 1Fad Cap with LEDs, 1 8-disc changer, 1 distributor block for 4gauge wires, 1 brain for the Panasonic screen (has to be accessible), 2 slots for MB Quart X-overs with minimum lost trunk room."

Never said I was so good . Ok so you've listed off a bunch of things you want in your system.
Box:
I'm not just going to build you a box for free...but I'd be more than happy to if you paid me. Suggestion - 10w6's sound best in ported boxes (very little wave distortion), and are the loudest in bandpass boxes.

Amp/Subs:
The two 10w6's need usually about 400W apiece (they're listed as 300W). You have a JL 300/4, which in bridged mode will only deliver 150W to each of those subs. That 250/1, if you wired the coils of the subs in series and the subs to the amp in parallel, would still only deliver 125W to each sub. So why the hell would you want to use either of those amps? I can't see why you even listed them...and I definitely can't see why you listed both, unless you plan on powering component sets in the doors and horribly underpowering both subs with 1 amp.

Other:
You didn't tell me what type of Panasonic screen you have...and considering there are about 7 different flavors of screens they have...

For a "brain" I assume you mean a video source. So either go get a DVD player, or get an in dash DVD player, or get a TV Tuner, or get a computer.

Now in terms of the whole design...you should be able to do all that and lose little space in the trunk by using the space between the rear wheel wells for the box, and either: 1) mounting the amps along the sides of the trunk, along with the Xovers and the distribution blocks and cap and DVD player, or 2) building up your floor about 4" or so and placing your Xovers, cap, distribution blocks, DVD player, etc in the floor with a plexiglass window over them so you can see them. Not altogether too difficult...but I seriously suggest you rethink your amplifier situation...

As for my own installation, I plan on ripping the car apart to some extent this weekend, possibly going ahead and wiring in the rear speakers and an amp...I'm not entirely sure. However I'm pretty sick right now so I don't feel too up to it...per se...

Austin519

StreetEffectz

I make templates out of cardboard first....it's much easier to cut and trim a cardboard template then trace it and cut it out of 1/4 hardboard.

Austin519

StreetEffectz:
"I make templates out of cardboard first....it's much easier to cut and trim a cardboard template then trace it and cut it out of 1/4 hardboard."

Heh heh...but it's more "manly" (with the accent of Hanz and Franz of Comedy Central) to cut it out of hardboard...extra points for cutting it with your teeth, and/or breaking it cleanly with your head.

Austin519

SilverKnight

These are what I HAVE right now, not what I want.

Quote:

Box:
I'm not just going to build you a box for free...but I'd be more than happy to if you paid me. Suggestion - 10w6's sound best in ported boxes (very little wave distortion), and are the loudest in bandpass boxes.

I hope you still remember the discussion on AIM, I'm not convinced 'till I see and hear your ported box in person

Quote:

Amp/Subs:
The two 10w6's need usually about 400W apiece (they're listed as 300W). You have a JL 300/4, which in bridged mode will only deliver 150W to each of those subs. That 250/1, if you wired the coils of the subs in series and the subs to the amp in parallel, would still only deliver 125W to each sub. So why the hell would you want to use either of those amps? I can't see why you even listed them...and I definitely can't see why you listed both, unless you plan on powering component sets in the doors and horribly underpowering both subs with 1 amp.

According to the JL Audio website, the 10W6s dont need 300watt rms to power it. So I can under power it, right? I'm gonna wire the coils in series and the subs in parallel to get 6 Ohm load and power them by the 250/1 (I know, I know but I'm broke for now unless you could hook me up with a 500/1 ).

The 300/4 is used to power MB Quart DSP216 component set and rear fills.

Quote:

Other:
You didn't tell me what type of Panasonic screen you have...and considering there are about 7 different flavors of screens they have...

For a "brain" I assume you mean a video source. So either go get a DVD player, or get an in dash DVD player, or get a TV Tuner, or get a computer.

NO, the brain is not the video source but rather the main processor (i/o unit) for the screen. I already located space for the DVD player (center console) so I didn't list it.

Quote:

Now in terms of the whole design...you should be able to do all that and lose little space in the trunk by using the space between the rear wheel wells for the box, and either: 1) mounting the amps along the sides of the trunk, along with the Xovers and the distribution blocks and cap and DVD player, or 2) building up your floor about 4" or so and placing your Xovers, cap, distribution blocks, DVD player, etc in the floor with a plexiglass window over them so you can see them. Not altogether too difficult...but I seriously suggest you rethink your amplifier situation...

This is almost what I have right but I didn't finish it because I lost so much trunk space (height) so I gave up on the false floor .

Quote:

As for my own installation, I plan on ripping the car apart to some extent this weekend, possibly going ahead and wiring in the rear speakers and an amp...I'm not entirely sure. However I'm pretty sick right now so I don't feel too up to it...per se...
Austin519

Hope you get better ... I can't wait to make a trip to Austin to see/hear your system.

Peace.

Austin519

SilverKnight:

"These are what I HAVE right now, not what I want."

Ahhh that makes more sense!

"I hope you still remember the discussion on AIM, I'm not convinced 'till I see and hear your ported box in person."

Of course not...and you're more than welcome to come over...hell come help!

"According to the JL Audio website, the 10W6s dont need 300watt rms to power it. So I can under power it, right? I'm gonna wire the coils in series and the subs in parallel to get 6 Ohm load and power them by the 250/1 (I know, I know but I'm broke for now unless you could hook me up with a 500/1 ).

The 300/4 is used to power MB Quart DSP216 component set and rear fills."

No, you can definitely underpower it...but you have to ask yourself...do you really want to ? I can hook you up with a 500/1 but we seem to be talking about it on AIM so if you need info tell me. And I see, I figured that's what the 300/4 was for.

"This is almost what I have right but I didn't finish it because I lost so much trunk space (height) so I gave up on the false floor ."

It's all a sacrifice man Just wish that our cars came standard with all this eh?

"Hope you get better ... I can't wait to make a trip to Austin to see/hear your system."

I'll let you know when I finally get the bastard done...I'm waking up early tomorrow to take the car apart...and thanks man I appreciate it.

Austin519