Alpine Type S Speaker Upgrade
#121
Skuuuurrrrrt!
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by meteorman
I replaced the front and rear doors and the 6x9's with the Type-S this weekend. I took these pictures for those who haven't done theirs yet, or who want to see how these speakers fit.
For the Type-S, you can use the mounting bracket that comes with the speakers. The bracket is 1/4 inch. I drilled holes in the doors to attach the bracket. The third pic below is from inside the door. The screw is 1 1/2 inch, so the screw protrudes a little over 1 inch into the door. - so the Type-S fit with no problem.
And BTW, the sound is much, much better than stock
For the Type-S, you can use the mounting bracket that comes with the speakers. The bracket is 1/4 inch. I drilled holes in the doors to attach the bracket. The third pic below is from inside the door. The screw is 1 1/2 inch, so the screw protrudes a little over 1 inch into the door. - so the Type-S fit with no problem.
And BTW, the sound is much, much better than stock
#123
I put in the Alpine SPS-17C2's last weekend and they fit in the speakers slots without a problem. You just have to drill new holes to mount the brackets that come with the speakers. I bought my set of 4 from crutchfield.com for $100 shipped and they provide step by step instruction with pictures on how to remove door panels.
#125
Originally Posted by oohitztommy
i just purchased a set of type s 6x9 for my tsx. does it require any drilling for the mounting holes or does it just fit right into the stock holes?
Thanks again for this brilliant thread, I have just now completed with the front and rear door speakers. A wast improvement, comparing to factory ones
It puzzles me a bit that some of you have used the Alpine 1/4" spacers. I needed the double for the magnet to go free. So I used 2 spacers per speaker in back door and ordered 1/2" spacers for the front ones.
Still left to do the tweeter part but it's difficult to find information on that. Any hints? For example, has anybody mounted the SPS-1005?
#126
Originally Posted by ArnoldLayne
Still left to do the tweeter part but it's difficult to find information on that. Any hints? For example, has anybody mounted the SPS-1005?
The tweets were a little PIA but they fit nicely in the stock holes. The stock wires are REALLY short. Thats the only reason it was hard. here is only about an inch or 2 of slack on those wires. It was a while ago but I remember it sucking pretty hard.
I still havent gotten to replacing the rear door speakers yet. I have another set os type-s 2 ways sitting in the box, but they didnt come with brackets so I didnt attempt it yet. Anyone know where I can get the brackets that came with the other type-s speakers?
#127
That would be the SPS-171A or SPS17C3 kit. Judging by photos I've seen, I think it includes the very same SPS-1005 tweeters.
I ordered tailor-made 1/2" adapters from MJM Auto Innovations in e-bay. Not very cheap, but good fit.
I ordered tailor-made 1/2" adapters from MJM Auto Innovations in e-bay. Not very cheap, but good fit.
#129
They'll fit just fine (without the grills of coruse). If you're using the stock factory amp, these are an economical and subtle upgrade in bass. If you're using and aftermarket amp, definitely go for a speaker that's a little more expensive and can handle more power.
#131
Anyone have any other suggestions besides the SPS 170A's in the front for the stock amp? Those are hard to find ... I've only seen one on ebay and theyre discontinued on crutchfield.
#132
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/pr...eakers/mmc650/
Anyone know how these polk speakers will fit / sound? Should I take the tweeters off regardless if I'm going to use them?
Response will be appreciated, thanks.
Anyone know how these polk speakers will fit / sound? Should I take the tweeters off regardless if I'm going to use them?
Response will be appreciated, thanks.
#133
Drifting
I have the component version (MMC5250 and MMC6500) and they sound great... I'm pretty sure you can get them at crutchfield.com for like $130 right now... If you're going to get them, though, you better have an amp to push them with... These things are power hungery... I'm feeding mine 98 watts rms (their rated at 100rms) and they eat it up... I need to add a bigger bass amp to keep up with these things...
#134
ya theyre only 70 at crutchfield at the moment so thats why I'm considering them but I really don't want to change the stock amp or anything like that. The site says theyre rated at 80 watts RMS which is still too much for the stock amp I assume.
#135
I have the component version (MMC5250 and MMC6500) and they sound great... I'm pretty sure you can get them at crutchfield.com for like $130 right now... If you're going to get them, though, you better have an amp to push them with... These things are power hungery... I'm feeding mine 98 watts rms (their rated at 100rms) and they eat it up... I need to add a bigger bass amp to keep up with these things...
#136
Drifting
Unless you have one hell of a stock amp, yes... I'd just pick up an external amp for them (either set)... I've heard good things about the Alpine PDX series amps (if you can afford one) and one of those would allow for a pretty stealth install...
The speakers fit great... The front doors were a little deep, but the rears are awesome...
The speakers fit great... The front doors were a little deep, but the rears are awesome...
Last edited by mattastick; 12-02-2008 at 01:20 PM. Reason: aditional question asked
#138
So, I wanted to replace just the door speakers and take out the 6x9's and add my JL Audio 250/1 v2 and my cdt audio 10inch woofer...i noticed the alpine SPS-170A 6.5 coaxials are discontinued, i dont want to modify the door in any way, i want to just unscrew the oem speakers and add aftermarket, can anyone point me in the right direction to speakers that fit our doors without modification, doesnt really have to be Alpine..
#139
Drifting
So, I wanted to replace just the door speakers and take out the 6x9's and add my JL Audio 250/1 v2 and my cdt audio 10inch woofer...i noticed the alpine SPS-170A 6.5 coaxials are discontinued, i dont want to modify the door in any way, i want to just unscrew the oem speakers and add aftermarket, can anyone point me in the right direction to speakers that fit our doors without modification, doesnt really have to be Alpine..
#140
Old Man Yelling at Clouds
So, I wanted to replace just the door speakers and take out the 6x9's and add my JL Audio 250/1 v2 and my cdt audio 10inch woofer...i noticed the alpine SPS-170A 6.5 coaxials are discontinued, i dont want to modify the door in any way, i want to just unscrew the oem speakers and add aftermarket, can anyone point me in the right direction to speakers that fit our doors without modification, doesnt really have to be Alpine..
#141
Oliver!!!
Will the 6022i work or will we need the 6022si for shallow mounting? And what spacers did you use with them, and where can they be purchased? I'm thinking of going with these as I can do all four for about $160 from Crutchfield (not sure about local yet.)
Also, does anybody know what's the deepest mounting depth you can use for the 6x9's? I was looking at doing a set of Infinity Kappa 692.9i's, but they're 3 5/16" deep vs 3 1/16" for the Reference 9622i's. So, does anybody know if they'll fit?
Also, does anybody know what's the deepest mounting depth you can use for the 6x9's? I was looking at doing a set of Infinity Kappa 692.9i's, but they're 3 5/16" deep vs 3 1/16" for the Reference 9622i's. So, does anybody know if they'll fit?
#142
If I'm reading correctly, the rear deck 6x9's only receive low frequency, I would like to keep mine, but if they are only used for woofers, my cdt audio 10inch should provide enough low range, if there was a way to have them receive a full signal, I would love to replace those with aftermarket also...
#143
Old Man Yelling at Clouds
Everything I did is on post #114 page 3. Spacers and cables, links provided. I didn't need any special shallow mounting speakers - the 6012's fit just fine with the right spacers.
#144
I just finished installing Alpine SPS-600c (components) up front and SPS-600 (2-ways) in the rear doors and I also covered all 4 doors in dynamat. It is amazing how much better all of my music sounds compared to stock.
My only complaint is that the tweeters seem to give off too high of a frequency. While the are far more clear than the stock ones, the high pitch noise they emmit for some cymbals and such is far too harsh. I connected them to the stock tweeter wiring like was suggested in an earlier post.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Is there a way to fix this other than connecting them directly to the crossover on the main speaker?
My only complaint is that the tweeters seem to give off too high of a frequency. While the are far more clear than the stock ones, the high pitch noise they emmit for some cymbals and such is far too harsh. I connected them to the stock tweeter wiring like was suggested in an earlier post.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Is there a way to fix this other than connecting them directly to the crossover on the main speaker?
#145
When you installed the SPS-600C up front, how did you connect up the mid range woofer in the front door? The terminals on the woofer seems to be going through an inline crossover unit. Did you use the terminals with the built-in Alpine crossover, or solder the speaker wires directly to the terminal before the crossover unit?
I just finished installing Alpine SPS-600c (components) up front and SPS-600 (2-ways) in the rear doors and I also covered all 4 doors in dynamat. It is amazing how much better all of my music sounds compared to stock.
My only complaint is that the tweeters seem to give off too high of a frequency. While the are far more clear than the stock ones, the high pitch noise they emmit for some cymbals and such is far too harsh. I connected them to the stock tweeter wiring like was suggested in an earlier post.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Is there a way to fix this other than connecting them directly to the crossover on the main speaker?
My only complaint is that the tweeters seem to give off too high of a frequency. While the are far more clear than the stock ones, the high pitch noise they emmit for some cymbals and such is far too harsh. I connected them to the stock tweeter wiring like was suggested in an earlier post.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Is there a way to fix this other than connecting them directly to the crossover on the main speaker?
#148
I just finished installing Alpine SPS-600c (components) up front and SPS-600 (2-ways) in the rear doors and I also covered all 4 doors in dynamat. It is amazing how much better all of my music sounds compared to stock.
My only complaint is that the tweeters seem to give off too high of a frequency. While the are far more clear than the stock ones, the high pitch noise they emmit for some cymbals and such is far too harsh. I connected them to the stock tweeter wiring like was suggested in an earlier post.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Is there a way to fix this other than connecting them directly to the crossover on the main speaker?
My only complaint is that the tweeters seem to give off too high of a frequency. While the are far more clear than the stock ones, the high pitch noise they emmit for some cymbals and such is far too harsh. I connected them to the stock tweeter wiring like was suggested in an earlier post.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Is there a way to fix this other than connecting them directly to the crossover on the main speaker?
Your tweeters might work a little better if you use the xovers that they came with. Just connect the xover to the factory door speaker wire and connect the driver and tweeter to the xover. Don’t use the factory tweeter wires. See how that sounds.
Another approach is to add an inline cap to the factory tweeter wire. This will raise the xover point to the tweeter.
The best way is to install a good amp and ditch the factory amp.
Jeff
#149
Your tweeters might work a little better if you use the xovers that they came with. Just connect the xover to the factory door speaker wire and connect the driver and tweeter to the xover. Don’t use the factory tweeter wires. See how that sounds.
Another approach is to add an inline cap to the factory tweeter wire. This will raise the xover point to the tweeter.
The best way is to install a good amp and ditch the factory amp.
Jeff
Another approach is to add an inline cap to the factory tweeter wire. This will raise the xover point to the tweeter.
The best way is to install a good amp and ditch the factory amp.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
I have given the tweeters a little time to break in and they now sound slightly better. I plan on rewiring them when I install a 10-inch sub and amp in the near future.
They're good enough for now. It seems that I am the only one who notices the issue, but I look forward to doing it the right way soon.
I highly recommend that everyone upgrade their system, its not hard to do and the improvements are dramatic (especially when done correctly).
#150
Has anyone else ordered from this seller? Hes the only one on eBay selling the speaker adapters for TSXs. I'm trying to install some Type-R components so I need them, just wanted to check if other members have had success with the seller.
#151
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#153
I should of asked this a long time ago, for the 1st gen TSX, are the front and rear door speakers the exact same? I mean the size of the speakers/brackets themselves and the space on the door. I got to remove the front door trimming this weekend but didn't get to the rear door(s), thanks.
#155
Oliver!!!
Does anyone happen to know the maximum mounting depth of the front door 6 1/2's? Reason I ask is that I auditioned a pretty impressive component set yesterday, but the mounting depth on the 6 1/2 is 3.14" (80mm). Somehow I don't think that's gonna happen and still allow me to roll the windows all the way down. I will be using 1/2" spacers.
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_mlk165.pdf
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_mlk165.pdf
#156
Instructor
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Jeff
#157
Oliver!!!
I know you can go deeper than the 6012i's. Somebody in another thread has a set of Polk MM6501's and their mounting depth is listed at 2 9/16". I know that 3"+ is just a pipe dream, but I want to make sure before I discount them completely. Also, given the recent price drop of the Infinity Kappa 62.9i's they're starting to look really good. Mounting depth is listed at 2 5/16" for them.
#159
Need more room in
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Does anyone happen to know the maximum mounting depth of the front door 6 1/2's? Reason I ask is that I auditioned a pretty impressive component set yesterday, but the mounting depth on the 6 1/2 is 3.14" (80mm). Somehow I don't think that's gonna happen and still allow me to roll the windows all the way down. I will be using 1/2" spacers.
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_mlk165.pdf
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_mlk165.pdf
#160
I found an old note from when I did my system that says 2.14 inches “Hit the Glass”. I think it was from the outside of the door skin (where the speaker sits). I would say a 1 ¼ inch spacer and you will have to trim the ring on the door panel.
Jeff
Jeff