SilverTSXinPA

See my post above.

97AcuraCL

Well I did; but you're talking about running the 6x9s AND a sub with an amp. I just want to run all the interior speakers... My problem is runnning 6 speakers on a four channel amp.... is that even possible? Is it necessary witht he Type-S speakers? The car will be running all Type-Ss in the doors and Type-Ss on the rear deck. Can I run it all off of the stock amp? I mean I'd REALLY perfer running all 6 speakers (plus stock tweeders) off the stock amp... but I guess the real question is will running all of them really be asking TOO much from the stock amp? (PS I just ordered the TypeS 6x9s for 89$ for the pair) So now I need to know if its NECESSARY for me to go looking for a decent costing amp to power them. (PLEASE TELL ME ITS ALL FINE TO RUN OFF STOCK POWER)


IF I MUST go with an amp... how would something like this work....? Would it be ample to run JUST THE INTERIOR speakers?

http://www2.shopping.com/xPF-Mtx_Thunder_4244

SilverTSXinPA

As I said above, I will be using a four channel amp to run six speakers. I will be running the 6x9s and the rear door 6.5's in parallel of the two rear channels (a 2 ohm load). I will be running the front door 6.5s off of two channels. And my amp supports running a simultaneous bridge off of either front/rear or both. So I will run a bridged connection to a sup in the trunk off of the fron 6.5s. This will permit me to fade to the front and still have bass (from the sub.) And there you have 6 interior speakers and an optional sub running of a four channel amp. In this configuration my 50 watt x4 am will produce 50 watts to each of the front speakers, 75 watts to the rear 6.5's and 6x9's, and a bridged 150 amps to the sub in the rear. I have had this amp for a while...it does pay to buy good equipment. Let you know how it sounds when I am finished.

SilverTSXinPA

Yes it is fine to run off the stock amp. I have all Type S speakers installed (doors and rear deck). Made such an amazing improvement that i now want to give them a bit of breathing room. You will not believe the improvement. You will need to turn the volume control up a bit higher to reach comparable volume, but, the clarity and definition is pretty amazing from the stock amp.

97AcuraCL

what about using an amp like
http://www2.shopping.com/xPF-Mtx_Thunder_4244
to run the front and rear deck speakers... and then run the rear door speakers off the stock amp... how about that... will that work? My biggest problem is speding more than 125 on an amp here.. beacuse I've got to buy a Capacitor if I'm gonna use 2 amps; that in and of itself is another $200. Help here guys?

97AcuraCL

Okay; that auction ended without me making up my mind... So this is what I think I've settled on... Tell me if this seems plausable....

i'm gonna run this amp
MTX Thunder 4244

(All Alpine Type-S) to power my front 6.5" Speakers and the Rear Deck's 6x9s... And Im going to run the rear door 6.5"s speakers off of the stock amp.

Of course the Sub will have its own mono amp.

Plus now I'm gonna need a Capacitor since i'm getting to subs...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEBWA:IT
that Audiobahn In particular...

can someone please tell me if this is going to work? I really belive it will based on the limited audio knowledge I have... but can anyone just confirm it for me? Please? kthx.

I wont do this for sure for another couple of days; I've gotta make sure I really have this in the budget right now... So i've got soem time... please help any and all recommendations or oppinions GREATLY apprecaited.

SilverTSXinPA

This Amp will do what you are wanting. You will need to run line level converters from the speaker outs from your stock amp. Then, leave the stock amp connected to the tweeters and rear door speakers. You should not need a cap with this setup. The amp does not draw that much. You will most likely need to adjust the amp's gain to match the stock output levels.

Another idea would be to power the front speakers off of the front two channels of the amp and then power the rear doors AND rear 6x9 full range at 2 ohms by wiring the doors and 6x9's in parallel. This would be a better solution. Then the stock amp would only drive the dash tweeters. Just a thought, and, it happens to be almost exactly what I am going to do.

97AcuraCL

Would the front still run at 4 ohms? So even though the amp will do what I'm wanting.. you think its a good buy? Is it even possible to have the stock amp going, and then 2 aftermarket amps? ALL OFF of the stock head unit?

Gpump

I haven't yet put together a how to of what I did, but heres the summary - took the signal from the headunit b4 it got to the amp, ran it to the trunk where my 2 amps power Polk db speakers in doors/dash with a sub in the trunk. To answer some of your questions, as long as the amp says 2 ohm (or whatever) stable then go ahead. If your speakers are rated as 4 ohms each and you run 2 in parallel off of the same amp channel, then your amp is seeing a 2 ohm load, so check the amp rating (someone correct me if I'm wrong). The 6X9 are low pass crossed by the stock amp - tap into the signal from a door speaker or something to get all frequencies. If you are going to say replace the rear door speaker, use a line out converter tapped into that speakers stock signal run to your amp - then the front speakers are run off of the stock amp signal, and (once you either tap into the stock speaker wires behind the cd storage bin or replace the speaker wire all together like I did) you can run the tweets (fronts too?) off the stock amp while your rear speakers run off your new amp. Either way, you either have to run speaker wire from your new amp up the center console to where the stock amp output wires are or run all new wire to each door/speaker which takes considerably more time.

Iceman

I have the same setup, with the same excellent result.

97AcuraCL

Yeap; I've decided to go a different route. I'm gonna keep the Alpine Type S 6x9s off of the stock amp... I'm gonna go with a Set of Type-R COMPONENTS and I'm gonna run that off of a MTX 4202 2 channel amp. Of course I'll still have the sub with its own mono amp.

So I'm selling the 2 Brand new pairs of the Type S 6.5" Coaxs for sale. Acutally I think I've already got one pair of em' taken care of; but I still have another pair waiting to be sold $65 including shipping for the pair NEW IN BOX.

Please let me know if anyone is interested. I can't move forward because I can't afford to buy thew new Type-R Components for the front until I sell the set of coaxes. :-)

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...&threadid=6226

cmf

You guys should be salesmen! Excellent info on these speakers--you have me sold anyways. Here's my question--While I am upgrading speakers in doors and the rear deck, what would be a good tweeter to upgrade to? Cash is not the problem, it's going back and forth to the stores and paying extra install charges!

SilverTSXinPA

I am looking for this right now myself. I started this thread and have since added and amp and small sub. My next target is the dash tweeters. You will not be dissapointed with the Type S's off of the stock amp...and...there is no cutting required.

Arcticcl9

I'm done installing the Alpine amp into the rear Type S 6 x 9 speakers...but it was so late into the night (past midnight) and I got so tired and clueless that I removed both the rear deck speakers wires at ONCE. Now i'm not sure which one is positive or ground Can someone please post what colors the rear deck speaker wire configuration from looking at it?. I will post my pics of my install after dressing up the wires a bit and my conclusions of the install

CDR

I can't look at them now, but opened the TSX phone book (aka service manual) if that might help ...

Color codes at the speaker:
Left Rear: PNK +, BLU/YEL -
Right Rear: RED +, BRN -


In the harness connecting to the amp the colors are:
Left Rear: WHT +, GRN -
Right Rear: PNK +, BLU/YEL -

Arcticcl9

Thanks CDR, you're a lifesaver Now I can rest easier knowing i didn't switch the wires. I just need to finish up my install now.

Arcticcl9

Okay, I've finally installed the Alpine amp. The power of the amp is very high. I had to turn everything down--EQ and Gain--of the amplifier so the Type-S speakers won't rattle off the rear deck! The bass is much improve..and almost approaches the effect of a subwoofer. I will put off the install of a subwoofer for now since it sounds pretty good. Bass is tight, and deep. I'm getting some dynamat extreme for the 6 x 9's so the bass should be even cleaner afterwards



Check out the pictures here: My Amplifer Install

Iceman

I installed the same speakers as you, and the speaker buzz is gone. I now have a different (occasional) rattle in the driver's door, which I hear even with the stereo off.

Arcticcl9

I will add foam to the rear deck along with the door speakers also. That should reduce the rattles..and keep the road noise out. Too bad it's so difficult to pull the door panels off...not "hard" but inconvenient. I'll let you know if it improves. But, I am very satisfied with the current results now

TSXTim

Circuit city had buy one pair get 2nd pair 1/2 off on Polk.

This isn't why I bought polk, didn't know about that
deal until after I picked polk. I got four 61/2 polk momo for
$150.


I know it's a matter of taste, they had polk, alpine, infinity
to choose.

A local shop will cut four spacers out of fiber/wood
material for $30. I'll install them with dynamat extreme.

If I like them I'll go back for the two 6x9's.

Everything I hear, it's a big improvement of stock speakers.

slo007

I think it depends on what you expect. I put the R's in mine (front only) and have been playing them louder; but it's more likely to be because I want to notice them more (check that the investment was worthwhile).

I wanted to get an amp, but it seems to be more of a hassle than I expected initially.

GeorgeTSX

Ok, you sold me on this Alpine speaker upgrade. I have the speakers and a door panel removal tool on the way. I have never replaced speakers in a car before and really don't know much about car audio.

I have the TSX Service Manual and I will follow the photos on Chris Horn's site here...

http://www.chrishorne.com/gallery/TSXspeakers

Am I to understand that this is pretty much a simple speaker swap?

Do you recommend that I use Dynamat when I put these new speakers in?

Anything else I should look out for when I do this?

slo007

1. If the type S tweeters don't fit in, use a razor to cut excess material on the INNER edges (of the opening) so the tweeter will drop right in.

2. The left crossover, secure it away from the fuse box. I had some interference problems with mine.

3. Be careful as you pull the door out, as the plastic snaps on the side and bottom break easily.

4. As you pull the door off, take caution to unplug everything before walking away. Especially the plug for the window buttons. One of those fell apart when pulled too hard and took some minutes to figure out what was what.

Have fun!

davinci

Sounds like a great upgrade for a reasonable price. Thanks for all the posts.

Couple questions: How do the Alpine SPS-170A speakers mount in the doors? Are any spacers or adaptors needed? And what about mounting the Alpine SPS-690A speakers in the rear deck? Are any spacers needed there?

GeorgeTSX

Davinci> On page 1 of this thread, 11th post down, SilverTSXinPA said "Used the adapter that came with the alpines no problems with spacing."

So I assume this should be a simple swap. the only pain and the thing that has me nervous is removing the panels off the doors.

GeorgeTSX

For anyone who is doing a speaker upgrade for the first time (like me) you can get the Honda/Acura wiring harnesses at Circuit City. They have them on their webpage here...

http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.js...&catoid=-11701

They are $6.99 a pair.

jlukja

Cool. Thanks GeorgeTSX.

GeorgeTSX

I should mention that there are 2 kinds of Metra Speaker Wire Harness Adapters for Honda's that they sell.


The ones we need are the Metra Honda/Acura Speaker Harness part number DW7800SH as seen here...

http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.js...&catoid=-11701

(the ones I had linked to in my previous post were the wrong kind.

I confirmed this today.

GeorgeTSX

Question. I noticed that the Alpine SPS-170A's have what is called "swivel tweeter design".

What angle did people set the tweeters at? I was thinking straight out, but I guess since they are on the bottom of the door towards the front then maybe aiming the tweeter to the North East on the passenger side and North West on the driver side so they aim more or less towards the listener?

spelldog

I see that I am confused - I couldn't tell when people were talking about the Alpine Type-S SPS171A vs Alpine SPS-170A.

The Alpine SPS-170A does not have tweeters. Are both the same in terms of ease of install in the door? Above it mentions the Alpine SPS-170A as fitting right in but not sepcifically the Alpine Type-S SPS171A. Crutchfield says neither fit, nor the rear 6x9's.

I am wary of having to install crossovers as I've never done it before. I have done basic speaker installs though.

Thanks! I love this car except for the speakers.

Arcticcl9

I have the Type-Rs, but I first shorten and soldered the wires, then mounted inside the door using some dynamat as adhesive, next to the speakers there should be enough space. Make sure it's secure so it's not touching the speakers (vibration) and use enough adhesive to mount (it might fall down, and vibrate like crazy there)

GeorgeTSX

I found decent prices for the Type-S's on eBay. I paid $62 (including shipping) for each pair of SPS-170A's and $72 shipped for a pair of SPS-690A's.

The dealer has more up now on ebay here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3087090814

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3087091701

I got all the speakers this past week. They were well packaged.

He seems to have raised the price on shipping the 690A's but lowered the shipping on the 170A's. In either case it is cheaper than paying $99 plus tax per pair to Circuit City.

As for the small square parts you mentioned, those are for the SPS-171A's not the 170A's that are mentioned in this thread.

There are pics of both in the above ebay links.

jiggaman

aren't these the same speakers.

http://www.discountsjungle.com/alsp2way15co.html

spelldog

George - Thanks for the quick reply (and I apologize for my ignorance on these topics, but I am trying to learn more)

If I go with the Alpine SPS-170A I would have to then buy separate tweeter replacements. My thought was to go with the
Alpine SPS components b/c they come w/ tweeters as someone on this thread mentioned going that route.

Those who went with the Alpine SPS-170A, did you then replace the tweeters? If so, with what?

Also, do both speakers mentioned above (for those who have them) fit in the opening w/ no modding?

jlukja

Not exactly. I think they are the previous model before the 170A came out. Here's the description from your link:


ALPINE SPS-1629S 2Way
6 1/2" Coaxial Car Speakers

SPS1629 SPS1629S "BRAND NEW, FACTORY SEALED, IN STOCK" REPLACED BY SPS1729S SPS-1729S SPS1729 AND SPS170A

sandwiches

The SPS-170A has been replaced by the SPS-171A which now includes a separate tweeter.

spelldog

I am not sure it is a replacement, I think they are two different offerings....one for those who need / want an all in one design (170A) and another for those looking for a component (171A).

RallyFan

Well, I apologize from cross posting as I did create a new thread with this question but this may be a better thread for my question:

I am buying a set of 171As for my front doors and I am keeping my stock amp and head unit. Should I install the Alpine crossovers or use the stock set up? I have read that the signal is split at the amp so the crossovers will not do anything. Is that true?

What's your advice?

Thanks in advance.

jlukja

I recall reading that the front speakers signal is crossed over in the amp so the front high freq. is sent to the tweeters in the dash and the rest is sent to the front door speakers. If you install a crossover after the amp for the front doors it will not do anything to the signal for the front doors and, worse, you won't get the high freq. out of your crossover because they are not there to begin with. IMHO if you want to keep the stock head unit and the stock amp then you should just do a straight speaker and tweeter swap and not add any crossovers.

SilverTSXinPA

The front door speakers recieve full bandwidth no rolloff in the highs, however there is much bass boost equalization from the amp to the front door speakers..I estimate 4db or so. (This bass boost is not present in the rear doors)
The tweeteres are driven from a a different channel in the stock amp, and, again the amp handles the crossover. You do not want to add the alpine crossover to the factory amp.
Enjoy though...let me know how the tweeters sound. I started this thread way back and am still looking to upgrade the dash tweeters.