DIY: Removing Slave Cylinder Damper

[Frankie Figs]

This was originally posted on an Acura TL forum. After reading it and looking at my Si, I realized it will work. This worked on my 07 Si and most likely will work for all from 06-up. *NEW INFO* It appears some or all 06 models are slightly different. Same basic design though, just a different approach!

The guys on the Acura forum refer to it as a check valve but I think its more like a damper. From my understanding it slows down the clutch engagement. Probably to make it "smoother".

After I did this and bled the clutch, the pedal was really soft. I pumped it a few times and it got stiffer but not like before. Once I started driving it, the pedal pressure came back. This will make the clutch engage/disengage much quicker, just like a traditional clutch does. I noticed it "hits" the tires alot harder on quick/spirited shifts.

Here is the write up posted by Black_05_TL_6SP on Acurazine.com. Anything in blue text is stuff I added. I also added everything after step 7.

**DISCLAIMER**

Neither Black_05_TL_6SP or myself are responsible for damages/injuries that occur while you or your friend(s) is/are performing this modification.

"Removing the Valve.

1. Remove unit from car or purchase replacement. Cost - $60-80 (If you are getting up there in mileage I would suggest purchasing a new one.) I unbolted the SC from the motor (2 12mm bolts) and then unbolted the clutch line bracket from the top of the trans (1 10mm bolt) and pulled the SC up to the top of the battery. Be careful not to bend the hard line. With the SC up at this height, you can unhook the feed line without making a mess. Lay down a towel so it there is any fluid spilled it wont get on the paint!

2.Parts and tools needed - Mini hook set, DOT 3 fluid, Needle nose pliers, and something very thin to use to push the check valve out. I used a very small but long Allen wrench that I had.



3. Using the 90deg and the round hook I was able to remove the ring. I used the 90deg to hold the ring in place while I used the round hook to slide the ring from its locked position. The ring has a inward slope and an outward slope. Be careful not to let the ring shoot off or do this some where you can find it easily.



Note - The ring removed



4. With the ring removed, I used the needle nose to remove the cap from the SC. It has to be worked out, so rock it a bit and it will come up and out.



Note- Ring and Cap



5. Removal of the check valve. I used a long Allen key that was very thin to fit into the hose feed side of the SC. As previously mentioned in another post, be careful not to hit the brass part of the fitting, it can damage it. This is why I used a very thin object. I had to tap the Allen key with a hammer to get the damper out



6. With the check valve removed you can reassemble the SC. Start by putting the end cap back in and making sure it is fully seated back in the SC.

7. You will finally reinstall the ring. Install one side of it and use some needle nose to work the ring in. You may want to keep your finger over the ring so that if it slips it will not shoot off."

8. Reinstall the SC in the reverse order of removal. DONT BEND THE HARD LINE!

9. Open the clutch fluid reservoir, if its low, top it off. Using an 8mm wrench, open the bleeder valve on the end of the SC and let it drip. DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH PEDAL! Let it drip until you dont see anymore air bubbles. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir, dont let it below the MIN line.

10. Once the bubbles are gone, and the reservoir level is below the MAX line, screw in the bleeder with your fingers and give it a 1/4-1/2 turn with the wrench. Top off the reservoir to the MAX line and put the lid back on it.

11. Clean up with your favorite hand cleaner and go for a test drive!

Enjoy

-Frankie

[Zigg]

Fantastic. A nice real-world DIY that I'll use on a daily basis (starting the day I replace my clutch and flywheel.)

[Frankie Figs]

What do you mean starting when you replace them? You can use this mod with the stock stuff and the stock clutch actually has quite a hefty bite!

[Zigg]

Thanks for the DIY! I can't wait to feel the difference tomorrow! And I miss visiting Spring Hill!

[w00t692]

This is probably the sole reason for 2nd gear grind.

Jesus i didn't know we had a dampener.

[GeezerSi]

Interesting.

I would be interested to see someone do this, who has had 2nd gear grinds, and see if this helped.

[Frankie Figs]

I would assume it would eliminate the 2nd gear grind on a new/low mileage trans but mine is already damaged from me trying to drive it like I should have been able to. Now its boned! Im gonna have it rebuilt by a K series tranny guru, I just have to find the right guy for the job!

[soxfan143]

It's a delay valve. And it only limits fluid flow back into the CMC so it has no effect on disengagement. It only slows down the engagement of the clutch to "smooth" out upshifts. This will do nothing for second gear grind issues.

[AK47 Performance]

I tried this. My slave doesn't even look like that.

[AK47 Performance]

Well after reading this i decided to just give it a shot again, this time with a grinder! I ground down most of the metal around the snap ring to get it off. I used some linesmen pliers to pull out the plug and then used a screw to anchor the check valve and pull it out. I bled the clutch and took it for a ride....

I must say i feel STRONGLY about this fixing the 2nd gear problem. I banged 2nd about 6 times on my drive and it went in perfectly every time. Nothing has helped this much. The clutch grabs much firmer and the feel is excellent. I really suggest doing this mod... if anyone needs any help i would be more than happy to do a write up (since our slaves are a little different then the TLs

alex

[Frankie Figs]

Originally Posted by AK47 Performance

Well after reading this i decided to just give it a shot again, this time with a grinder! I ground down most of the metal around the snap ring to get it off. I used some linesmen pliers to pull out the plug and then used a screw to anchor the check valve and pull it out. I bled the clutch and took it for a ride....

I must say i feel STRONGLY about this fixing the 2nd gear problem. I banged 2nd about 6 times on my drive and it went in perfectly every time. Nothing has helped this much. The clutch grabs much firmer and the feel is excellent. I really suggest doing this mod... if anyone needs any help i would be more than happy to do a write up (since our slaves are a little different then the TLs

alex

What year is your car? Mine looks just like the TL, thats why I didnt take pics and just used the ones from the TL writeup.

[Parasin]

Will this mod have any effect on voiding warranties?

[Frankie Figs]

Originally Posted by Parasin

Will this mod have any effect on voiding warranties?

Try to leave as little evidence as possible. If they dont know its there, it wont hurt My cars out of warranty so thats why I gave it a shot. I wish I had done it sooner!!

[AK47 Performance]

Mine is an 06, it is definitely different... regardless it still had the same kind of damper in it.

Originally Posted by Frankie Figs

What year is your car? Mine looks just like the TL, thats why I didnt take pics and just used the ones from the TL writeup.

[Frankie Figs]

Originally Posted by AK47 Performance

Mine is an 06, it is definitely different... regardless it still had the same kind of damper in it.

Oh, thats good to know. I'll edit the 1st post with this info. Thanks for the heads up!

[a1rfreshener]

i wish the pics were better im a visual persona nd have no idea wat valve to take off haha other than that id do it already

[09*si{GARRETT}]

well since someone else bumped this for me i dont feel so bad haha

i have an 09 with the second gear grind. got it "fixed" last week but i just grinded twice today!! what have people experienced with this mod?

[i-mod]

I posted this in the TL thread also

You guys do realize that this valve keeps the pressure from blowing the seals over time in upstream part of the system right? It's there to control the pressure feedback when the pressure plate springs release. With it out there is a pulse of high pressure back into the system that puts a lot of extra pressure on the clutch master cyl seals. This valve controls that flow to even out the upstream pressure. Honda puts it there for a reason. This lil trick has been around for a while and I have personally replaced failed parts because of it. It's not like the engineers at Honda put extra crap in there just to hinder performance on the car. If this was a reliable way to run the system i'm sure they wouldn't have included it. By doing this mod you will prob see premature seal failure and will prob end up sitting on the side of the road when the seals fail and the clutch won't engage. Just some food for thought.

[a1rfreshener]

sounds about rite ^^^^^ just saying haha

[booper169]

so is this a good mod or bad lol... anyone had any bad experiences yet?