salguod

Hello all, I'm a new owner of a 2002 RSX Type S. I bought it from my cousin who bought it new. It's high miles (243K) but looks quite good inside & out. I've always admired the car and he offered me a deal I couldn't pass up.

Part of the deal, however, was that it wasn't doing the VTEC cross over and it simply wasn't running like a Honda should, especially a K20. It simply didn't want to rev. It runs just fine (smooth, no missing or odd noises), just lethargic if you will. I had him pull codes and came up with P0341, P1166, P1167 and P0134. Everything I read, including what Autozone suggested, said it needs a timing chain. So, this weekend I started to change it.

I'm stuck at getting the crank pulley off. I've tried the longest breaker bar I can get in there (24") with the pulley holder, I've tried multiple impact tools (including my friend's 1,100 ft-lb Milwaukee M18), the starter bump trick and even jacking the car up by the breaker bar handle with no luck.

Anyone got any other suggestions?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

just keep trying.
took me a week to break free the crank pulley bolt on my acura TL. Everyday, I would come home from work and try. all of a sudden, one day it was loose.

I had two breaker bars. one was against the frame of the car, and the other I was standing on

salguod

Yeah, I guess that's the plan. I hope it doesn't take a week.

My friend with the impact is also doing a chain on a 2007 TSX. Same problem, we even tried is two handed 1" drive air impact with no luck on it. Two breaker bars, feet against the frame and brute force finally got his loose. I'll give it another try later tonight.

Part of the issue is the crappy fit between the pulley tool and the pulley. It just comes out too easily.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the two breaker bar method should keep the "pulley tool" in place. but yes, I found it was slipping off too.



this picture is my own! I had such a hard time with it


P.S. i dont know if the RSX timing chain would differ with my timing belt crank pulley

salguod

It should, but in my case it doesn't. Nothing I've done so far will keep the tool in place so I can put enough force on it. I've tried multiple ways of wedging the tool on the frame and even wedging things between the holder and the chassis. It'll stay for a bit, but it always pops off once I really start pulling.

My friend is coming by after work tomorrow so one can hold the holder while the other pulls on the breaker bar. Plus, I got a pipe to create a longer lever arm. I also may try modifying the holder for better engagement.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

hope you get it, man!

salguod

We got it off.

My friend came over after work and here's what we did:

18" breaker bar on the pulley holder wedged between the control arm and subframe.

Two pry bars between the chassis and the pulley holder pushing it in place. My friend put both feet on them to keep the pulley holder there.

24" breaker bar on the bolt pointed down and forward, ending about 5"-6" from the floor. I tried to get the pipe on it too, but it was too long.

Floor jack with the cradle under the handle of that breaker bar and using it to lift and apply torque on the bolt.

I slowly raised the jack, lifting the handle probably 10"-12" (it was almost at the bottom of the bumper) before we heard the crack of the bolt coming loose. I bet we had put a 20 degree bend on that breaker bar. He said the smaller pry bar was bending too from the force trying to push the pulley holder out.

I wish I had gotten a picture of it, but we were too worried about what would happen if something broke. I have no idea what kind of torque we were putting on that bolt.

Crazy, but hopefully that's all the drama in this job.