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Old 07-01-2017, 06:05 PM
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RIP RSX Type-S

After 15 years of meticulously maintaining my '02 Type-S, what's left of it is now at the insurance company's storage lot as I await settlement. All was good until I went to my driveway one morning last month and the car was nowhere to be found. It turned up within 48 hours a few miles away, stripped of drive train, seats, and wheels. I just brought home a 2014 TSX which I will introduce in the appropriate forum.

RIP RSX Type-S-thieves-suck-.jpg
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Old 07-01-2017, 06:13 PM
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I'm an old ephatch, ivtec.net and clubrsx dork...
I bet we go way back to that...I had an 05 BOM and seeing this hurts my heart.

I hate thieves...I hope the same doesn't become of my S2000.

Glad to see you in good spirits! Looking forward to your thread about the TSX.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:02 PM
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That's a bummer, I didn't think RSX's were still stolen. I used to park mine everywhere without giving it much thought.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:03 PM
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as they become more rare though, and them seats...and that k20...
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143 View Post
I hate thieves...I hope the same doesn't become of my S2000.
Same thought went through my head.
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:05 PM
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An update. It is now 6 weeks later and after much pain and a short impasse, I finally reached agreement with the insurance company. $6080 value or $5580 after deductible. I then asked how much it would cost me to buy back this car. Note that I have owned it since new and it has never been in a wreck, has A-Spec suspension, and everything worked as new. They told me I could keep it for $400. I will be keeping it and have $5180 to spend on it.

My plan is to retrieve the car (once settlement is complete), determine exactly what is missing and what I will need under the hood. Then I will be looking for deals. My desire is to drop in a 06-08 TSX K24A2, but if I find a deal on a donor 02-04 Type-S that is complete under the hood, I will have to consider it.

Updates will likely be on Team-Integra.net where I am more active.

Answers to anticipated questions:
  • No, I didn't have additional security on the car. I figured if the immobilizer wouldn't stop them nothing would.
  • No, they didn't catch the losers who did this.
  • Yes, I did look on Craigslist and Ebay to see if any of my parts were for sale. The seats are custom leather and the wheels have custom paint so I would recognize them. I also know the engine serial number. No joy.
  • No, I can't afford a JDM Type-R conversion. $7K for a complete front clip is too much for this projectNo, I don't know if I will completely restore it. I might just put in front seats and put a cage in the rear. No one likes to sit in the seats anyway.
  • No, I don't want to part it out, but I will retain that as an option.
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Old 07-27-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by knavekid View Post
An update. It is now 6 weeks later and after much pain and a short impasse, I finally reached agreement with the insurance company. $6080 value or $5580 after deductible. I then asked how much it would cost me to buy back this car. Note that I have owned it since new and it has never been in a wreck, has A-Spec suspension, and everything worked as new. They told me I could keep it for $400. I will be keeping it and have $5180 to spend on it.

My plan is to retrieve the car (once settlement is complete), determine exactly what is missing and what I will need under the hood. Then I will be looking for deals. My desire is to drop in a 06-08 TSX K24A2, but if I find a deal on a donor 02-04 Type-S that is complete under the hood, I will have to consider it.

Updates will likely be on Team-Integra.net where I am more active.

Answers to anticipated questions:
  • No, I didn't have additional security on the car. I figured if the immobilizer wouldn't stop them nothing would.
  • No, they didn't catch the losers who did this.
  • Yes, I did look on Craigslist and Ebay to see if any of my parts were for sale. The seats are custom leather and the wheels have custom paint so I would recognize them. I also know the engine serial number. No joy.
  • No, I can't afford a JDM Type-R conversion. $7K for a complete front clip is too much for this projectNo, I don't know if I will completely restore it. I might just put in front seats and put a cage in the rear. No one likes to sit in the seats anyway.
  • No, I don't want to part it out, but I will retain that as an option.
Glad to read that you are restoring the RSX! I hate to see it's a result of thieves, but you can move on knowing you can restore the car back to it's glory.

I swapped an 06 k24a2 and couldn't be happier. Good luck and keep us posted. I'm on clubrsx frequently, but will check in time to time on here.

Last edited by nats007; 07-27-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:34 PM
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Update!

I have been tracking salvage RSX Type-S sales on Copart and IAAI to figure out what a wreck to be used as a parts car would cost me. I found that very few show up in Florida and the bid prices for a Type-S with under 150K miles and stock engine bay go for $1500 to $2000 before fees and shipping. Plus, there are broker fees since in most states you can't purchase vehicles without a business license. The total cost ends up being $2500 to $3500 to buy and and have a wreck shipped to me.

So, I was looking on Craigslist and found a high mileage, well maintained, stock 2002 Firepepper Red Pearl RSX Type-S listed for $3000. I bought it today! It does have 238K miles but runs well and doesn't burn any oil. It has good tires, new clutch, new struts front and rear, and everything pretty much works. The body is straight and has never been in an accident. Almost anything it needs I can get from the shell of my original car. I intend to move over the A-Spec suspension including the brakes, rotors, LCAs, and hubs. Other minor parts as well that are in better shape.

The other benefit of building this car is that it has a clean title.

Updates to follow as I continue with this new build.



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Old 05-22-2018, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by knavekid View Post
I have been tracking salvage RSX Type-S sales on Copart and IAAI to figure out what a wreck to be used as a parts car would cost me. I found that very few show up in Florida and the bid prices for a Type-S with under 150K miles and stock engine bay go for $1500 to $2000 before fees and shipping. Plus, there are broker fees since in most states you can't purchase vehicles without a business license. The total cost ends up being $2500 to $3500 to buy and and have a wreck shipped to me.

So, I was looking on Craigslist and found a high mileage, well maintained, stock 2002 Firepepper Red Pearl RSX Type-S listed for $3000. I bought it today! It does have 238K miles but runs well and doesn't burn any oil. It has good tires, new clutch, new struts front and rear, and everything pretty much works. The body is straight and has never been in an accident. Almost anything it needs I can get from the shell of my original car. I intend to move over the A-Spec suspension including the brakes, rotors, LCAs, and hubs. Other minor parts as well that are in better shape.

The other benefit of building this car is that it has a clean title.

Updates to follow as I continue with this new build.



Wow! Nice find and looks to be in great condition! Definitely keep us posted on how your build goes!
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:18 PM
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I found some things that need addressing and ordered parts to:
  1. Fix the leaking taillights. This common problem had been fixed by drilling two holes in the spare tire well! I ordered aftermarket gaskets on Ebay from Detroit Muscle Technologies. These are much better than OEM in my experience. I will also try to seal the holes.
  2. Perform a valve lash adjustment. The car has 238K miles and I found no records of this being done. I ordered a valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I also ordered a set of feeler gauges and a valve lash adjustment tool.
  3. Fix the loose shifter. This is a common problem with Honda cable shifters. The bushings in the shift cable where they attach to the shifter wear out. The dealer will tell you the only solution is to replace the shift cables as the bushings are not replaceable. This can be repaired using using a suitably sized plastic, nylon, PTFE, or other similar material bushing and some lithium grease. One time I replaced these bushings using sections sliced from the extended tip that came with a tube of calking. I have since acquired a nylon tube that I think I can cut to the proper width for this application. I will create a how-to topic when I do this.
I hope to get to these items this weekend.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:13 AM
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I love projects like this...
I miss my old BOM 2005 type S really badly sometimes.
Still loved that color...
nice pick up, and love that it's been maintained! If you were local, I'd come by and lend a hand if I had spare time.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:20 AM
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I love the BOM color and would have bought in that color had it been available in 2002. I was able to get the shift cable repair completed and verified that the taillights are, in fact, leaking since it rained much of the holiday weekend. I made a DIY article for the shift cable repair.
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:05 AM
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I had my tails replaced once under warranty...
then I drilled a hole in that set because I knew it was gonna happen again
bottom inner corner and it was never an issue after that.
New gaskets and maybe some clear RTV might work though!
I almost bought in Jade Green Metallic...
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:55 PM
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I was able to get the taillight gaskets replaced today. I removed the rear bumper and then the taillights and the gaskets looked to be original and were in sorry shape. The original gaskets had adhesive in four places on each taillight that had to be removed. I cleaned all the grime off of the mounting area before reinstalling the taillights. The Detroit Muscle Technologies gaskets are a perfect fit and appear to be thicker and better quality compared to OEM. This is based on having replaced them with OEM on my old RSX only to have them leak again a few years later. I attached a few photos below.

Next on my agenda is the valve lash adjustment.

These are the gaskets to get. $20 shipped on Ebay: DMT HONDA IMPROVED Material 02 04 Acura RSX Taillight Gasket Set


New gasket fits the taillight perfectly.


I got all the grime cleaned off.
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:50 PM
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that's the way...
I guess you could technically use clear rtv behind there to make a watertight seal...but those gaskets are damn perfect for cheap.
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143 View Post
that's the way...
I guess you could technically use clear rtv behind there to make a watertight seal...but those gaskets are damn perfect for cheap.
I used clear RTV with the original gaskets on my first RSX the first time it leaked and again with the new OEM gaskets. The sealant was a pain to clean off when replacing the gaskets. I didn't use any sealant this time. We'll see how it holds up.
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Old 06-02-2018, 04:56 PM
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I adjusted the valve clearance today. No issues as there are plenty of how-to instructions available. I did find the
10mm Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool 10mm Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool
indispensable. For having 238K miles on it, the valve train is in great shape! (see photo below)

I found that the air cleaner cover connection to the breather hose is broken off. Fortunately, I still have the stock air box that was removed from my old RSX in 2006 when I installed the Comptech Icebox CAI. I am in the market if anyone knows of an RSX Type-S Ice Box for sale.

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Old 06-02-2018, 09:06 PM
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Nice, man...
yeah, I did the valve lash on the S2000 and my old TL. Scary the first time...but then you get the hang of it.
Gotcha, yeah...definitely hard to clean that off, smart that you didn't redo it then.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:55 PM
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I finally found some time to work on the RSX. Today's task was replacing the driver side outside door latch handle. It was broken when I bought this car and I thought some industrial 3M 2216 B/A epoxy would hold it. It might have worked, but I don't think I prepared the surfaces well enough. I ended up buying a used OEM latch on Ebay (not the correct color, though).

I didn't take photos as I was in a hurry and running out of daylight. Removing the door panel was no big deal, but the Helm factory service manual leaves out a few steps regarding the handle removal. Here are the steps I ended up taking that worked:
  1. Make sure the window is up all the way and remove the rear window track. Remove the 10mm bolt at the bottom of the track, pull out the track liner, and then tug the track housing down and remove it.
  2. Rotate the clips holding the lock rod and latch rod where they attach to the handle assembly. Disconnect the rods by sliding them out of the retaining clips.
  3. This is the tough part! Remove the wire retaining clip holding the lock cylinder in the handle by pulling it down. I bent the end of a stiff wire in to a small hook and tried to grab the bottom of the clip but there wasn't enough room to get the hook around it. I used a flat blade screwdriver to push the exposed top end of the clip down which provided enough room to hook the bottom. A mirror is a great help to see the clip from the bottom as it is hidden by the handle backing plate.
  4. Once the clip is removed, push the lock cylinder from the outside and remove it from the handle. It will hang by the wire harness.
  5. Now the two 10mm bolts holding the backing plate to the handle can be removed. This will allow removal of the handle.
  6. IMPORTANT! Before installing the new handle, install the wire retaining clip for the lock cylinder. I found that if I partially inserted the lock cylinder, I could easily install the clip and then slide the cylinder back out.
  7. Install the handle from the outside and attach the backing plate using the two 10mm bolts.
  8. Press the lock cylinder into the handle through the backing plate. Push hard and you will hear the clip snap into place when it is seated.
  9. Connect the lock and latch rods, rotating the retaining clips into place to hold them.
  10. Push the top of the window track housing into place and then attach the bottom using the 10mm bolt. Make sure the lock cylinder harness is routed around the rear of the track.
  11. Press the soft window track back into the track housing.
That pretty much sums it up. Getting that lock cylinder clip out was the hardest part. I will install the interior door panel after installing a plastic inner liner. The liner was missing from the door when I removed the panel. Photo below is of the new handle installed.


Replacement handle installed.

Next on the to do list (after reinstalling the door panel) will be adjusting the clutch pedal. The friction point is way too high for my liking.
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