Thmanx

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This. Nuf said. Don't be a cheep ass. You 'can' get away with it, but whats the point really. Buy a Toyota then...


Even if modern sophisticated computer controlled DI engines can adjust for atmosphere, octane, and knock conditions. Bottom line is your still having the computer make changes to your Short-Term fuel trim corrections and it keeps off-setting your Long-Term fuel trim. It WILL lose power since it'll have to advance ignition timing, and it WILL lose economy. No matter how nice you drive it, all things being equal your losing engine output.



My other DD is a 00 Civic with a 3 year old 05 ITR fully BAR'd swap in it (yeah, its a 05 casting, its an R-DOT block). Its been tuned on such a razor edge that on hot days in Cali it'll ping like no-ones business on 91 (S300 w/ an OBD1 Ecu, has no KnockBoard hence no Knock Control), and needs a bottle of Gumout or Torco every tank. And you better believe I have no problem using a $3 bottle of OCT-Booster for the efficiency and power the agressive ignition timing gives me.

aomechmarine

10 gallon tank $0.20 x 10 = $2.00

$2.00 fucking dollars?! Stop being cheap asses, mofos. You probably get the stupid $2.00 back in better MPG anyway, especially if using full synthetic. This is so stupid. LOL hilarious actually

Thmanx

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This too. Stop complaining about $2-5 seriously. Just don't eat out for one meal, problem solved.




Which reminds me, its time for my '16's first oil change. Almost at 7000mi as it is on the new car...
Begs the question... do I go for Acuras own 'magic' Full Synthetic (aka re-formulated Mobil1) or something else... comments?
Its a serious question here actually, lol. Seeing as we've beaten this Octane one to the ground by now.

aomechmarine

I ran Castrol Full synthetic vs (Acura) Mobil 1. Castrol did basically the same, maybe better. But I also ran them at different times of the year, which in hot weather California makes big differences. I'm very excited to try the Mobil one extended performance soon. Already bought the special, but I'm still at 40% with Castrol.

I'd simply recommend a full synthetic from a top brand. If I didn't have a a sloped driveway, and didn't mind risking possibly spilling oil, then I would just do it myself. Find a good mom and pop mechanic, (hopefully a Honda/Acura expert, my guy was with the dealerships for over 10 years, highest level certs), buy an oil change special at Walmart, Autozone, etc, whoevers got the better deals near you. Best value.

I think the Acura Dealers near me want anywhere from $60-90 for full synthetic oil changes. The first few oil changes I got semi-synth through the dealers tho, $30, because I went through the Honda side of the house, usually when I was getting OEM add-ons at the same time. Engine literally does sound smoother and runs quieter with full synthetic. I have mods, exhaust gets WAY louder (rougher) with semi synthetic. Super loud towards end of oil life. Full synthetic exhaust note is deeper, quieter, gets louder towards end of oil life.

Also noticed slight loss of performance at end of oil life with semi synthetic. Hardly (if at all) noticeable towards end of oil life with full synthetic.

Thmanx

I tried the extended performance stuff in my Civic for the last oil change. And after several months of losing 2 quart here or there before oil changes (tried different companies, torco, high weight 10-40's etc) i haven't dropped more then 1/2 a qt with the new extended performance stuff. (high reving VTEC motors just do that... vaporizes oil at high rpm and to much VTEC love) Maybe there is some secret sauce to the new M1 Extended stuff.


As for the ILX, it shouldn't be too hard to fiddle with the oil filter/change on the new ILX, it'll be fun to tinker with it (now if only Helms will make the DAMN FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL SO WE CAN GET ALL THE REAL DETAILS ABOUT THE CAR... still waiting on that one; even my contacts at NormReeves Honda & Cerritos Acura are still shrugging their shoulders on that one; they don't even have em yet)

Hell they still don't have em for the EarthDreams Accords... and those have been out for a while now...

aomechmarine

Th same thing happened in my 2001 civic. I tried using some pricey stuff like eneos and torco, it ate the stuff like water. The car preferred Valvoline and Castrol. Go figure. I'm keeping an eye on how the ILX performs with a few different brands so far tho.

Also - my mechanic has people going to his shop with 300,000 miles on their cars. Yeah, maybe some burn a little oil, big whoop. But they're burning good oil, LOL. And I ask them, they're using the good gas. They run like a top. It starts with good basic maintenance tho. Which it doesn't get more basic then the gas and oil you use.

My sister has a little 1996 Honda Accord, that shits not even gonna make it to 200,000 First couple owners were shitty on maintenance. She got the car cheap, it does take abuse tho, she doesn't really care it's almost dead, shes almost done with Registered Nursing school.

If you plan on owning the car for a decent amount of time (5-15 years,50k-75k-100k-300K....pssshhh, longer) and want the least issues possible, DON'T BE CHEAP

Thmanx

Agreed, I intend to own this ILX till is blows up (in like 15+ years from sheer milage and use, not idiotic abuse and maltreatment), then rebuild it and keep it going again.

ceb

I'm glad to see that you've bought into the advertising hype. Because of that, you probably don't know that Mobil oil filters are made by Champion - one of the lowest rated oil filter manufacturers.

You would be far better off sticking to Honda branded filters.

Do maintenance records enhance resale? Certainly - but only during a private sale. Dealer trade-ins couldn't care less about maintenance records except if they are in the system or as a vague point of interest. More important on a dealer trade is the overall appearance of the car. While the sales guy might give you lip service about your records "great stuff, you really took good care of the car", the reality is that those records will go straight into the trash. The last thing a dealer wants to worry about is keeping track of paperwork and - more importantly - privacy issues as there may be PII or credit card info on some document in that pile and they don't want to be responsible for that.

Actually, the most impressive maintenance records are those showing that you did your maintenance according to the manufacturer requirements using factory parts and fuels.

As far as premium fuel is concerned, many of you are missing the point. I'll repeat them so that even those of you who fall into one of the categories in my signature line can understand it.

This car REQUIRES 87 octane gas but is designed so that it can take advantage of octane up to 91.

Use of 87 will not damage your car

Use of 91 will give you slightly increased power and will slightly improve gas mileage

The detergents in gasoline bought at the same station is the same regardless of the octane. The Shell station on Main Street has two tanks - 87 and 91 (or 93 depending on state) - and the pump mixes the two for the mid range gas. The detergents are identical in both gasolines. The BP station down the street may have a different blend of detergents from the Shell station but the detergents in their 87 is identical to the detergents in their premium fuel.

Gasoline does not "increase" compression ratio.

ceb

Ahhh yes, the old "bottle of octane boost" will actually do something myth.

So the bottles of "octane boost" that you buy do, in fact, boost octane ratings - but - not to a significant degree.

They advertise "boosts octane 2 to 5 points" and a few even boast that they boost octane ratings by 10 points. Sounds great, right? Until you realize that 1 RON (the system that octane is measured in in the US) is measured in 10 points.

Accordingly the bottle of stuff that says "adds 10 points" really boosts your octane RON by 1, so that $5 bottle of "stuff" that has a big 104 on it really gives you 87.4 octane assuming it even does what it says it does.

If you want premium gas then octane boosters WILL NOT do squat. By the premium at the pump or buy 100 octane gas at a racetrack.

Isn't advertising grand? In this thread alone we saw the marketing hype differences between "required" and recommended", the Mobil stuff and now the octane boosters.

If you want your car as a daily driver and want to save money, use top tier 87. If you are a spirited driver and want a bit more power, buy 91 octane.

In either case, get maintenance done on schedule using OE parts (that are actually cheaper than Molbil1 if you buy online). If you go to a dealer for maintenance then you can save money by going to the local dealer - same fluids, same parts, same tools, same training. Honda dealers can't do warranty work.

ceb

Gee, every car manufacturer must be lined up wanting to hire you if you can tell the difference between running oils of the same viscosity.

You also cannot tell a difference when you are coming near the time to change your oil. You "might" be able to believe that a new oil change improves stuff but you CANNOT tell the difference between how your car was between the time you did your oil change and the time for a new one.

Quit fooling yourself.

Thmanx

Lol, took 3 posts to type all that...

aomechmarine

40+ mpg is not hype or fooling myself buddy. Lets see you post pics/video of 40+ mpg, using cheap gas and cheap oil - tank average, driving conservatively. Put your money where your mouth is. Psssshhh, I doubt you can even get the 36+ mpg i can get on long drives to/from LA to San Diego.

I also use the Honda filters as well, but they don't exactly carry those at Autozone or Walmart.

Getting pulled over for loud exhaust when I have 30% oil life left, and noticing a difference in performance when oil life is getting low while using semi synthetic is not hype either. I have the 2.4 stick shift, you can tell the difference man. I have used both semi and full synthetic, and it was not a one time switch. As I stated, I used the dealer for a quick $30 semi synthetic oil change a couple times, since I was already at the dealer getting OEM add-ons anyway.

OF COURSE it's through private sales you will retain a much higher resale value. Why would i sell my modified car to the dealer? They would try to rape me, ridiculous. Thanks for admitting I was right tho, and then trying to deflect and twist it. And yes, maybe some people don't want to deal with selling the car on their own. But guess what? The dealer is gonna low ball you for having to now sell your car for you, so you essentially are paying them for that convenience.

Is it "hype" when my old civic would eat up/burn up certain brands of oil, while others lasted much longer?

Just like adding performance bolt-ons is "hype" too right? Yeah, they aren't going to make your car a race car, and I'm not saying that about the gas and oil either. But there are differences. And as I already clearly provided evidence, the difference is usually a max of maybe $2.00 a fillup? How about you just admit you're just a cheap ass mofo, dude.

Maybe If you have the 2.0 or the auto 2.4 then maybe its less noticeable, but there are still going to be differences. I bet people driving the new 2.4 auto can probably get 40+ mpg pretty easily as well, just treat the car right and drive conservatively.

aomechmarine

I also used an off brand full synthetic that my mechanic had in stock, at the time I thought it was Mobil 1. Mpg/performance started off great, towards the end of oil life there was a big drop off. Same thing happened using the semi synth, MPG and performance dropped off as well. Drives that were 36+ MPG went from 34+ to 32+ right before the oil change. Thats not hype or imagination.

Whats funny is, you apparently don't bother using higher tier stuff, yet claim with absolute authority that it's exactly the same, with no personal experience as a bare minimum to make an educated decision. Ridiculous on all counts.

01acls

ceb

No worries, I'll let you wallow in your ignorance and self importance. Continue to believe that you can tell by sound that you need an oil change - you are the only one in the universe that believes that.

Enjoy your tarted up Civic. Unfortunately you still think you are dealing with the Civic forums.

aomechmarine

NOT ONCE did I claim to know that i needed an oil change based on sound. I simply noticed they were directly related. You are just a fan of twisting information.

I will continue to enjoy my Civic. What a petty remark tho, you are obviously butthurt you got owned buddy, LOL. You are the one who is ignorant. YOU are the one that chooses to not buy and compare higher tier products, so your decision is based purely on a miniscule $2.00 at fillup, or x amount for a better oil. You know, if you at least bought the stuff and said you didn't notice any difference... Well, you'd be lying, but at least there'd actually be a real comparison. Not a stubborn cheap ass holding on to his shitty $2.00.

Also, what if i post links to Civic owners who treat there car like gold, and it performs as such? What a lameass comment. You must tie in just a little too much importance to the car you drive. I don't need an Acura over a Civic to get girls, but hey it doesn't hurt either. You must be like really low self esteem. I have a buddy who's a MARSOC Marine... He drives a Mini Van, and he has a little toddler and a pregnant wife.. Go ahead and tell me you are more of a man because of the car you drive... LOL

YOU are the only one being self important - you refuse to even bother comparing. In your mind, you are right, and that is that.

Can't even get near that 40+ MPG tho, huh? Looks like that shut your ass right up. Keep it moving son.

aomechmarine

C'mon guys... #91octaneISallHYPE
#save2dollaSOyouCANholla
#andFUCKfullsyntheticITSallHYPEtoo

SlipAngle

These are the facts about how Honda has implemented knock control and it's relationship to fuel octane. It's fairly complex but I'll explain it in simple terms below.

https://www.hondata.com/help/flashpr...rol_tables.htm

Short story in terms of this discussion is that there is no active (instant) knock control, which means that if you use 91 octane, empty your tank and switch to 87 your engine may knock -- especially in higher temperatures or with high engine load. Over time the ECU will determine from the knock that you are running lower octane and decrease ignition timing. Decreasing ignition timing, decreases power. In theory once the ECU has learned the new octane, you should experience little knock, however if you switch your fuel octane types often then the ECU will always take time to adjust. This opens that window of time where the engine will knock more.

My recommendation = always use 91 octane.

Thmanx

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- This

Sixers12

I've been using premium since I had the car. I tried regular recently, haven't noticed anything different....still rides the same, perfect

maybe just the gas mileage is a little worse, I'm still averaging 36-40

I may keep using regular gas

usdmJON

Oh come on dude. You can't say your peace and share some information without turning nasty and acting like a child? You want to talk about a tarted up Civic; lets talk about what makes your TSX oh so amazing... or should I say... your tarted up Accord. What makes your TSX so much better than the tarted up Civic? Well your for starters it shares an engine with the Honda Mini-Van. Sweeeeeet.


A minute looking at your past threads shows you do a lot of talking without really knowing what you're talking about.

My personal fav

Fact is the right wheels can be one of the biggest performance boosts a track car sees. It is called unpsrung weight. Look it up. Same place you got all that second hand oil/octane knowledge from that you regurgitated for us. Wikipedia is awesome.

aomechmarine

NO, DUDE! SAY IT AIN'T SO!
NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! DUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDDDEEE!!!!!

aomechmarine

"High-Mileage Acura Integra

By Bill G.

• Best Car Ever
• Model: 1991 Integra
• From: Colorado Springs, CO
• Mileage: 600,000
• Dealership:

My 1991 Integra is a famous car around the Colorado front range. Everyone is amazed when they find out the mileage. It got me to and from work in Denver to Colorado Springs over Monument Hill for 20 years in the worst of snow storms, rain, hail, etc. I have only had minor replacements and 6 timing belts. It just will not stop running. I fact, my Acura mechanic Dave from Elevation Auto bought it from me and plans to go for 700K miles. I am currently enjoying my new 2010 TSX I bought in Feb. 2010. I have 10K miles on it already. The picture shows both odometers the day I brought my TSX home. I feel good about the prospects of another 500K plus Acura."

Acura Community | Acura Owner Stories | Acura Owners Site

What are the chances this guy used regular? hmmmmmm

My mom had a corolla that lasted 23 years, no idea final mileage, id say easily past 300k tho. It only knew Premium.... dude

Im at 44k miles right now, so in 12 years this car could be a 200k+, reliable, well maintained, perfect daily driver still.... OR an unreliable 200k POS.... ill spend the 2 bucks extra for Premium everytime, that way I can keep the future 2027 NSX for the weekends...

ceb

The ignorance shown by a few posters here is quite amazing. Oddly enough, they resort to cyber bullying when caught.

The only reason why I am posting in this thread again because of the absolute stupidity about the reason that a Corolla lasted a long time was because premium gas was used. These two posters have bought into the advertising hype that premium gas has some magical qualities over regular.

I'll reiterate what I wrote before.

Gas from the same station is identical with the exception of the Octane rating. It has the identical additives and detergents.

The manufacturer identifies the correct octane rating for the car.Using a lower octane can cause engine damage. Using higher octane rated gas has zero benefit.

For or cars, Acura REQUIRES regular gas but RECOMMENDS premium, so while premium will give you a bit more power and possibly a bit better gas mileage, it will NOT make your car last longer.

Regular maintenance and the use of Top Tier gasolines will keep your car running longer than you want it to but using premium gas when it isn't required will not add to the longevity of your engine.

aomechmarine

SIGH....

Dude, I never said it was BECAUSE of the gas. I'm just saying I'm very confident it did not hurt the situation. I'm SAYING IN GENERAL, GIVING THE BEST STUFF YOU CAN to the car is your best bet. Stop being a little female that tries to twist everything around, seriously...

The part of your quote that is in bold - is 100% contradictory. Use lower octane - possible engine damage.... so how is using a higher octane that helps PREVENT / AVOID that NOT beneficial? LOLZ What about added performance and MPG? Wheres a pic of YOU getting 40+ MPG, huh buddy? The manufacturer RECOMMENDS premium. The corolla my mom had was also able to take advantage of higher octane. Don't compare a car that cant take advantage of premium to a car that can. This car CAN benefit from 91, so give it 91. End of story.

So when you get owned, then its "online bullying"? but when you try to make little comments like "enjoy your civic" etc, then its not? How about you just stop being a little bitch, and accept you got owned on the internet. Its not the end of the world kid.

Again feel free to address the 40+ MPG "hype". Pics or it didn't happen. You clearly don't have an answer for it, so GTFO.

If you make the car work harder over its engine life by giving it regular gas, how exactly would that NOT make the engine die faster? Again, this wont be noticeable until you are past 100k+ miles, but same thing for oil, and any other fluids used. I would definitely NOT buy your used ILX.... HELL NO

* also, Eventually when I get wheels, they will most likely be lighter then stock, so my MPG may improve EVEN MORE! My bolt-ons are not tuned yet, so again, even more possibility of MPG gain. You are ignorant kid. Enjoy your measly 2 bucks.

usdmJON

This coming from the guy that came in here calling our cars tarted up civics and thinks wheels have zero performance benefit.

I never thought Id be quoting the TL guys. But Ceb. Go back to your forums. The TSX crowd misses you.

usdmJON

I... uh... what?

Top tier gasoline will keep your car running longer but premium gasoline will not? Since when are premium and top tier two different things?

ceb

Ever since the Top Tier program was created. As you will read below, Top Tier has nothing to do with octane but with additives in gasoline.

If you weren't so busy trying to suck up to your buddies here by trying to find errors in my posts then you could have spent that time doing actual research.

Again, another prime example that very few people understand how octane works. Italics are mine.

4.1 Retail Gasoline Performance Standards. The deposit control performance of unleaded gasoline conforming to section 4 of this document shall be met at the retail level in all grades of gasoline sold by a fuel company in all marketing areas of a selected nation. In addition, conformance to the standards shall mean gasoline sold in the selected nation shall not contain metallic additives, including methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT).
4.2 Deposit Control Additive Requirements. The deposit control additive used to meet the performance Standards described in 4.3 shall meet the substantially similar definition under Section 211(f) of the Clean Air Act. Also, the additive shall be certified to have met the minimum deposit control requirements established by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in 40 CFR Part 80. Lastly, the additive shall be registered with the EPA in accordance with 40 CFR Part 79.
4.3 Deposit Control Initial Performance Standard. All performance testing and fuel composition analysis shall be conducted by an Independent Laboratory. Initial deposit control performance shall be demonstrated using the tests shown below.
4.3.1 Intake Valve Keep Clean Initial Performance Standard.
4.3.1.1 Test Method. Intake valve deposit (IVD) keep clean performance shall be demonstrated using ASTM D 6201, Standard Test Method for Dynamometer Evaluation of Unleaded Spark-Ignition Engine Fuel for Intake Valve Deposit Formation. Tests demonstrating base fuel minimum deposit level (4.3.1.2) and additive performance (4.3.1.3) shall be conducted using the same engine block and cylinder head. All results shall be derived from operationally valid tests in accordance with the test validation criteria of ASTM D 6201. IVD results shall be reported for individual valves and as an average of all valves.
4.3.1.2 Base Fuel. The base fuel shall conform to ASTM D 4814 and shall contain commercial fuel grade ethanol conforming to ASTM D 4806. All gasoline blend stocks used to formulate the base fuel shall be representative of normal U.S. refinery operations and shall be derived from conversion units downstream of distillation. Butanes and pentanes are allowed for vapor pressure adjustment. The use of chemical streams is prohibited. The base fuel shall have the following specific properties after the addition of ethanol:

1. Contain nominally 10.0% ± 1% by volume ethanol as measured by ASTM D 4815 or D 5845.
2. Contain no less than 8 volume percent olefins as measured by ASTM D 1319 or D 6729.
3. Contain no less than 28 volume percent aromatics as measured by ASTM D 1319 or D 6729.
4. Contain no more than 80 mg/kg sulfur as measured by ASTM D 2622 or D 5453.
5. Produce a 90% evaporated distillation temperature no less than 290°F as measured by ASTM D86.
6. Produce IVD no less than 500 mg averaged over all intake valves.
7. A Certificate of Analysis showing both the detailed test fuel composition results and source should accompany the additive results package. This certificate should also contain the unwashed and washed gum level of the base fuel according to ASTM D381.

4.3.1.3 Demonstration of Performance. The base fuel from 4.3.1.2 shall contain enough deposit control additive such that IVD is no more than 50 mg averaged over all intake valves. Results for individual valves and an average shall be reported. The unwashed gum level of the fuel containing deposit control additive shall be determined according to ASTM D 381 and reported.
4.3.2 Combustion Chamber Deposit Initial Performance Standard.
4.3.2.1 Test Method. Combustion chamber deposits (CCD) shall be collected and weighed along with IVD using ASTM D 6201, Standard Test Method for Dynamometer Evaluation of Unleaded Spark-Ignition Engine Fuel for Intake Valve Deposit Formation. ASTM D 6201 does not contain a procedure for collecting and measuring CCD. Adapting a scrape and weigh procedure developed by CARB is recommended (see referenced test method dated March 12, 1999). Results for individual cylinders and an average shall be reported.
4.3.2.2 Base Fuel. Combustion chamber deposits shall be measured for the base fuel from 4.3.1.2.
4.3.2.3 Demonstration of Performance. The base fuel from 4.3.1.2 treated with additive at the concentration meeting the standard found in 4.3.1.3 shall not result in more than 140% of the average CCD weight for the base fuel without additive.
4.3.3 Intake Valve Sticking Initial Performance Standard.
4.3.3.1 Test Method. Intake valve sticking tendency shall be determined using either the 1.9 L Volkswagen engine (Wasserboxer according to CEC F-16-T-96) or the 5.0 L 1990-95 General Motors V-8 engine (SWRI IVS test). Two options are available for demonstrating intake valve sticking tendency.
4.3.3.2 Option 1. The valve-sticking tendency of the test fuel by itself will not have to be demonstrated prior to testing the candidate additive. The following shall be required of all tests:

1. Test fuel shall be either the same as in 4.3.1.2 or CEC valve sticking reference fuel.
2. Concentration of deposit control additive in the test fuel shall be at least twice the amount determined in 4.3.4.1.
3. Test temperature shall be -20°C.
4. Three 16-hr cold soak cycles, each followed by a compression pressure check, shall constitute a complete test.

4.3.3.2.1 Demonstration of Performance A pass shall result in no stuck valves during any of the three cold starts. A stuck valve is defined as one in which the cylinder pressure is less than 80% of the normal average cylinder compression pressure.
4.3.3.3 Option 2. The valve-sticking tendency of the test fuel together with an additive known to cause valve sticking shall be demonstrated prior to testing the candidate additive. The following shall be required of all tests:

1. Test fuel shall be either the same as in 4.3.1.2 or CEC valve sticking test reference fuel.
2. An additive known to cause valve sticking shall be selected, and, when blended into test fuel, shall demonstrate valve sticking tendency as follows: (a) for the Volkswagen engine, at least two valves shall be stuck; (b) for the GM engine, at least three valves shall be stuck.
3. Tests demonstrating performance of the candidate additive shall be conducted at a concentration that is at least three times the amount determined in 4.3.1.3
4. Test temperature shall be -20°C.
5. One 16-hr cold soak cycle followed by a compression pressure check shall constitute a complete test.

4.3.3.3.1 Demonstration of Performance. A pass shall result in no stuck valves during the cold start. A stuck valve is defined as one in which cylinder compression is less than 80% of the normal average cylinder compression pressure.
5. Process to Attain TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Status.
5.1 Submission of Test Results. A fuel company desiring TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline status shall forward the test results issued by the Independent Laboratory ("Test Results") to the following address:
Jill Cummings
GM Powertrain Fuels & Lubricants
3300 General Motors Road
Bldg. 42A
Milford, MI 48380-3726
5.2 Notification of receipt. The Test Results shall be reviewed by GM Powertrain and, if deemed acceptable in its sole discretion, the fuel company will be provided a TOP TIER License Agreement for their execution. Only upon complete execution of the TOP TIER License Agreement by both the fuel company and GM shall the fuel company be entitled to begin use the TOP TIER name in connection with the distribution, promotion and sale of their gasoline, pursuant to the terms and conditions of the TOP TIER License Agreement.

ceb

That's most certainly what you implied with "What are the chances this guy used regular? hmmmmmm

My mom had a corolla that lasted 23 years, no idea final mileage, id say easily past 300k tho. It only knew Premium.... dude"

My statement about octane in the part you bolded in my post is not contradictory at all.

If a manufacturer requires premium gasoline then using a significantly lower octane gasoline may cause damage. However, if a manufacturer recommends the use of regular gasoline (like your mother's Corolla) then there is no benefit in using higher octane gasoline - even if you think there is. In fact, the use of premium gas in an Accord actually decreased power and mpgs. Click on the link to read the C&D article on regular vs premium fuels.

You and your little buddies can argue all you like about how wonderful premium works in cars tuned for regular. You can run on about the wonders about added detergents and how the use of a bottle of octane boost will add horsepower and mpgs. The bottom line is that you don't understand how octane, top tier gas or octane "boosters" work.

Feel free to continue to try to bully your way though without using facts. It hasn't worked up to now.

ceb

Wait. I almost forgot. In this thread we also learned that we can tell the difference in oils by how the engine sounds.

aomechmarine

RIGHT - so me implying/suggesting that Premium gas PROBABLY HELPED high mileage cars last longer is now the same as me stating that is the sole reason.... NO, try again buddy.

If you are truly feeling bullied, then just go ahead and stop being a little bitch guy. Life is a lot harder then getting owned on a random internet thread. Time to man up and deal with the real world. Its a lot worse outside of your mom's basement. No meatloaf for dinner out there.

Again - WHERE IS YOUR 40+ MPG PIC? #OWNED - you don't have one, and won't have one, because you are a cheap ass. Point blank.

You know what? You can tell a lot of things by the noise a car makes. Ask a mechanic about that. I said I noticed it got louder once oil life is almost done.... So now that somehow means that I can tell all kinds of other stuff from that? Never claimed that, you're just a butthurt drama queen.

Actually NO - my mom's Corolla wasn't a regular Corolla. It was able to take advantage of premium. Again, you are just making up bullshit. Ever heard of a Hachi-Roku? Toyota Corolla AE86? Nope , cuz ya don't know squat kid (that's not my mom's, her's is dead already, RIP)


Post your 40+ MPG pics or go ahead and shut the fuck up

ALSO - stop twisting the plain and simple facts

1) NO ONE (on this thread) claimed that using premium on a car that recommends regular is still better.
2) The ILX IS TUNED TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF PREMIUM - so by your own logic, you should use what is recommended - RIGHT? Just like if regular is recommended - RIGHT?

* If full synthetic sucks so bad... Then why does every dealer offer it? Thought you said that the dealer was the best place to do maintenance, right?

01acls

OMG! Everyone it's Mr. Takumi Fujiwara, the Mt Akina God!

:gheywave::drag ::rofl

k24ilx

In the pic you have the MPG of trip A showing but the total mileage of your car, i could do the same thing and show you 199.9 MPG. i just did a 300+ mile trip and averaged 31 MPG on the way up with bad traffic and weather, and 33 MPG on the way back, I drove at a pretty consistent 70-80 mph.

if you want to brag about the pic so much, show the miles of the trip with the MPG of the trip and make it more than 100 miles to get a fair average MPG.

the 2.4 ILX mpg is rated at 22 city / 31 hwy... the gearing isn't designed to be terribly efficient, (notice how high your rpm's are at 80 mph).

msklein

I put 130,000 miles on my 08 TSX using 87 octane - not because I wanted to, but because my employer provides me with a credit card for gas purchases and won't allow anything but 87 octane. Logging 20k miles a year, there is no way I would sacrifice the benefit and buy my own gas.The company gives me an additional $500/month to pay for and maintenance the sedan of my choice. Acuras 4 cylinder engined small sedans have always seemed the best compromise in terms of durability and performance, to me, for squeezing pleasure out of driving up hill and down dale on company business. I use only top tier fuels and never had knocking, and the TSX ran sweet. Yesterday I traded it in for a 2016 ILX Premium Package. Rinse and repeat.

aomechmarine

Well c'mon, do you really think I'm gonna say you should use 91 in that situation? It's definitely gonna be someone's else's problem tho... But hey, not yours, huh?

And realistically, that's not most anyone else's situation guy, c'mon now...

aomechmarine

Ok, honestly, im pretty sure you just want to argue with me so - go ahead and post
1) a pic of you getting 199.99 MPG - cuz YOU said YOU could.
2) post a pic of 40+ mpg

I am not bragging about the picture. If you take it that way, then I'm definitely just gonna go ahead and call you out as a hater. Feel free to match the MPG numbers, as others on this forum have surpassed those MPG numbers. If not, add something to the conversation other then just plain arguing.

The pic shows about a quarter tank was used, and I still got 40+mpg. Thats actually pretty close to a 100 miles already dude 10 gallons x 40mpg = 400 miles. 400/4(a quarter tank) = 100 miles.

I actually added a pic before of 36+mpg on a 100+ mile trip from San Diego to LA. SO, yea, if you aren't using full synthetic or premium gas, you might want to try it.

If you are using it, then I guess you're just a hater looking to argue. Have great day tho bud!

aomechmarine

*** for the 40+ MPG i was driving Grandma status (at least in California), 65-70mph, taking advantage of hills, etc. The 36+MPG I was driving around 80, hit 90+ a few times,also taking advantage of hills, etc.

If i felt like pissing people off on the freeway, I could probably drive around 60MPH and average around 43mpg even now, and maybe 44-45mpg with lighter wheels...

k24ilx

If i wanted to bore myself to death to get 40 mpg i would have bought a hybrid, cool, you got 40 mpg.. pretty sure it has to do the way you drive more than anything. I run 93 octane, and full synthetic, but i also don't drive like a grandma.

Not trying to argue, just trying to say the pic you hashtag and refer to again and again can be manipulated, I'm sure you got 40 mpg good for you feel free to call me a hater, id rather be that than ignorant.



merry xmas.

aomechmarine

Props on actually providing one of the photos.

Others clearly don't have the balls or proof to even bother backing up their statements.

The point of the 40+ MPG pic is that it was made possible by using 91 premium, which is the highest available in Cali. Except possibly using racing fuel, which would be stupid because this car is not tuned to use it.

And yes, you are clearly a hater for no apparent reason. If I get 40+ MPG sometimes, you seem to have a problem with it? Don't worry about how I drive, that's not really the point of this thread, and this isn't ramblings. OK, time for a new hobby then bro. Get off my nuts.

weather

Well, let me just say that at the end of the day, I do what I WANT when it comes to fuel choice, type of oil, frequency of tire rotation, service schedule etc. This site is great for sharing general opinions and such but I don't understand why people get all worked up because others don't agree with them.

This is just the internet everyone....Let's all share, have fun, engage in discussions but the fact that people recommend you use Premium fuel doesn't mean you have to use it. Do what feels right to you, and enjoy your vehicle....Life is short people. Let's not fret the little stuff...