OSUBeaver

Wanted to get a place to post some pics and get some opinions and feedback on my ILX build. So far here's where I'm at:


Lowered on H&R Springs
18x8 Enkei PF01
215/40/R18 Continental Extremes
iJDMTOY LED Fog Lights
HIR1 DRLS/High Beams
15mm front spacers, 19mm Rear (Motorsport-tech)
5% Back Tint 15% Front
Factory Clear Bra


Before and After Pics below.


Right before I ordered the front body kit pieces I measured the gap from the ground to bumper when I pulled into the garage. Not enough wiggle room now. Was around an inch. Steep, downhill driveway. Shitty


Before

OSUBeaver

After:

OSUBeaver

Within the next 20-30 days I'll be installing the following;


Hushmat sound dampening on all 4 doors
RV6 Catted Downpipe
2.5" Mandrel Bent piping
Flowmaster DBX muffler
K&N Cold Air Intake
Hondata Flashpro.


Had to get the cosmetic/suspension stuff out of the way first.

usdmJON

Damn you're done with the cosmetics already?
Im confused from you first post.. are you getting the front lip or not enough room to be comfortable anymore?

Cant wait to see the exhaust done. Ive got a downpipe on the way... need to decide what I want to do with the cat then Ill be saving for the rest. I want to go with a reputable company for hondas though so Im thinking about going with Borla and hacking the tip off for a turn down.

And when you say k&n cold air you mean the one with the heat shield or does it go down by the fender?

Youve got the 2.4 right?

OSUBeaver

Can't do the front kit. Really not happy about it.

Yes 2.4l. My guys said they're looking into the k&n cold air for a 2013 civic si sedan and if we can make it work for the ilx. It's the one that goes into the fender. Gotta remove the bumper i believe

OSUBeaver

Might do a spoiler. But really can't touch anything in the front. Not going to give up parking in the garage for a body kit

OSUBeaver

Not sure if anyone else had posted a LED Fog Light side-by-side pic yet. Found it on my phone from a couple weeks back - I think it shows just how much better the LEDs look vs. the yellowish stock - sorry for the poor quality. It appears like the stocks are much brighter in the first pic but that's halfway due to the camera angle. The LEDs are quite bright





Both Installed

usdmJON

Looking good!!

I bet you can get into your driveway still if I can get into mine with TWO lips on. But oh well. Looks great as is!

OSUBeaver

Too close for comfort - I really don't think the front kit will make it in....

usdmJON

Damn so wait youve got a narrow driveway with grass and a pillar on both sides so you cant go at an angle then an incline right before you enter? Fuuuuuck that. Im sorry my friend.

neveronlineilx

Yea I would be thinking twice on the lip too, that really sucks

I thought they only made the FIPK kit for our cars (9th Gen Civics)? I think I am going to go with the skunk intake with Batt relocater. Its black and looks clean and should be fairly light considering all the plastic tubing it removes.

Build looks good got any good profile or side pics?

usdmJON

Anything from the 9th gen should fit so if they have a CAI for the 9th then he can use that. I just didnt realize k&n made anything other than the fipk or drop in filters.

OSUBeaver

I'll have to get back to you on that one. I was under the same impression. I'll be doing some homework over the next week. If anyone has any solid suggestions on CAI's let me know. I know the usual suspects and have used Injen and AEM in the past, but maybe someone knows the real deal secret sauce around here

usdmJON

There isnt any real deal secret sauce when it comes to intakes for our cars.

Honda/Acura makes great efficient intakes as is. For the most part you will be spending upwards of 200$ for a CAI that claims to make 5hp... then when you dig deeper you find out the intake was tested on the same engine in a civic thats producing less horsepower from the get as well as rocking a throttle body spacer and no cat.

SRI and CAI make different gains in different areas of your power band. An SRI is going to pull more air in quicker while a CAI will bring in colder denser air. Im sure you know this.

So if a CAI is what you want then just go with the cheapest you can find under Injen, AEM, DC, Skunk, Takeda... someone reputable. They all make the same shit. Tubers couplers and a filter.

Or go pick up a ARC airbox and fab some tubing to that.

Switt23

your drive way is an easy problem to overcome. Go to your local lumber yard and pick up a 2x4 and a 2x6. Cut them to like 5 feet in length and mount the 2x4 under the 2x6. Level out the gap from the hill and the surface floor of your garage.

Had to do it for years in my cobalt and it was a hell of a lot lower than your ILX.

No aggression intended.

4cruizn

Looking great so far!

OSUBeaver

Ordering next week - everything will be installed by mid-Feb - I know it's a few weeks out but I'm pretty excited.

K&N 69 Series Typhoon
RV6 Catted Downpipe (2.5" out)
Flowmaster DBX muffler
2.5" Mandrel Bent Piping
Hushmat Ultra for Doors and Hushmat Silcencer Megabond for Door Panels

$ for all parts + install for what I can't (won't) do: $2,000
Having a buddy's shop install the full exhaust system and another buddy's body shop doing the hushmat - I don't like taking brand new doors apart....

Flashpro will have to wait a month or so.

VckPtl

OSUBeaver:

Do you have the Tech package? If not, what do you think of the sound system and if you plan to change it? Or have you made any changes?

OSUBeaver

No Tech Package available for the 2.4L. Sound system is pretty good - not bad at all but I guess there's always room for improvement. For me the Hushmat Sound Deadening I'm installing here in a couple of weeks will be the only sound system upgrade in the near future.

The lower profile tires + car being closer to the ground has made the road noise increase pretty decently. I'm going all out with the Hushmat and doing a multi-layer approach with all top of the line product. Should quiet the ride maybe 40%-60% or so when done. Will make the stock system sound much better and overall ride much more like a luxury car should be.

VckPtl

Like you, I like the sound system too. However, in hindsight, given that my 2.0 offers the Tech package, i wish i had gone with the ELS system. In any case, I'll also be putting some sound deadening equipment.


All the best! And keep up the good work

duce2k

Loking good so far OSU...

OSUBeaver

Thanks man. Love the black - wanted to buy a black one with my black wheels but I can't seem to keep black cars clean enough for me! IMO black is the best color for these cars though

OSUBeaver

Great day out here in Portland for some new pics.

OSUBeaver

This shows the spacing a little better.

OSUBeaver

barely can fit 1 finger in the front gap - no joke. those H&Rs appear to lower the car a bit more than advertised.

OSUBeaver

back gap with H&R's. It's been about 2 weeks, springs have settled I believe. Got the car realigned today

OSUBeaver

last one

OSUBeaver

Ok so ordered/paid for everything - now in transit. Fingers crossed, intake, downpipe, exhaust installed by next Saturday. Hushmat not for 2 weeks - going to a shop for that

usdmJON

What exhaust did you go with?

I assume the rv6 dp or whatever they are called.

DMYG1

Nice ILX!

SlaammedILX

Nice ! Looks a lot like my ilx lol.

OSUBeaver

Custom 2.5" mandrel bent piping at a local shop. I found its a lot cheaper to buy the muffler and header (or in our case downpipe) and have a good tuner shop pipe it. Good cat backs systems can easily cost $600+ but I'll likely be around $300 including the muffler cost. Rv6 catted downpipe plus exhaust all in around $900 installed - not bad.

usdmJON

Both the 2.4 and 2.0 have pretty much similar set ups.
I'm realizing people just really confuse the names of the piping... i could be wrong in my terminology myself.
Its all basically a header to downpipe to midpiping. The 2.4 guys just have a cat on their header and the 2.0 guys have a cat on the downpipe.

The RV6 replaces the bellmouth header and the cated downpipe.
My Megan downpipe replaces the downpipe only. In the future I will buy a header to replace the cat'd head that comes stock.

I for one like name brands. So Ill be going with an axle back with a name brand I can throw around and just do some custom piping from the downpipe to the axle back.

Switt23

Loving the progress!

DJ COAST

Seriously looking good OSU!

OSUBeaver

Maybe the 2.0 is different? There is not a separate header and down pipe for the 2.4. I saw the down pipe you put on and I have nothing like that. Just a single port header (which is technically called a down pipe on this engine setup) that comes with either an attached cat or attached straight pipe that replaces a cat. The component is all 1 part welded together from the manufacturer. Slap on a cat-back exhaust from there and your done. 2 products total if your buying brand name complete kits

OSUBeaver

My bad on this - the stock set up has a removable down (or mid not sure one name) pipe section, aftermarket down pipe like rv6 it's all 1 piece. I see the confusion now. Not sure what those 2 parts separated are each referred to. Maybe down and mid pipe? Still don't think the first piece is technically called a header.....maybe I'm wrong

usdmJON

That is why I said Im realizing people just confuse the terms or there really isnt anything concrete.

This is how I see it..
Both 2.4 and 2.0 have piping that runs from the built in exhaust mani to the bottom of the block.
This for my 2.0 is the cat which bolts straight up to the engine. My buddies tech manager says its just an exhaust manifold when the cat is built into the header like that.
To make it simpler, I just call it a header. Now its no 4 2 1 header but still it functions the same. The 2.0 has a header/cat.
I believe rv6 calls this piece a downpipe on your car which makes sense because it also replaces the second section as you mentioned... that second section is what you saw me install which megan calls a downpipe.

So I have a header/cat to downpipe to the midpiping which is the long extending piping that bends to the passenger side and ends with a flange right before the rear axle. Then its the axle back.

You car I would still call a header, others call it a bellmouth downpipe or something. That piping, like my header/cat extends to the bottom of the block. From there you have your cat (I believe) which replaces the downpipe on my car.
So...
You.. technically.. downpipe>cat>midpipe>axleback
Me... technically.. exhaust manifold/cat>downpipe>midpipe>axleback

And if you or I both buy a catback it will connect to your cat and connect to my downpipe.
Our axle backs would be identical I believe.

Switt23

The exhaust manifold itself is integrated into the head. The downpipe starts at the manifold flange, to the cat and then the main run of the downpipe. I believe they designed it the way they did so if they cat goes bad you can unbolt the cat and replace vs having to cut and reweld.

However you spin it, R20a's and K24z7's don't have an exhaust manifold or header that can be replaced. Only the downpipe can be swapped either leaving the cat alone or a pipe designed to replace the cat as well.

OSUBeaver

Agreed. Now let's hope for some good gains with this set up. Realistically I'm hoping for at least 20hp with intake, header, high flow cat, cat back system. I think that's a pretty conservative goal. Could be 25+. Would love to see a dyno after everything of 200hp at wheels.

Flashpro add and we should be looking at adding 30hp minimum from the dynos I've seen. 9th gen civic forum had 2 people with nearly identical set up on si with flash pro tune get 208hp and 196ft lbs at wheels. Those are worthwhile #'s and should be noticeable!