ILX suspension noise
#441
I know I can be quite abrasive when trying to make a point. For this I do apologize.
As for being a fanboy, that I am not. If I was sitting here telling you the ILX is BETTER than the cars you have mentioned then I can see you calling me a fanboy. But I'm simply telling you to stop comparing apples to bananas. Compare the ILX the those in it's class, not those you feel are similar.
I've stated what I felt very plainly. What am I implying here?
I do love my ILX. It works for me. Not saying it's my dream car. But I am enjoying my purchase as I knew what I would be buying.
If you are happy with the power then yes you knew what you were buying. If you are one of those that feel its too slow then you did not know. Telling someone to NOT buy a car they KNOW they enjoy is poor advice. Telling someone to educate themselves before the purchase is far better advice.
You clearly aren't catching my drift. STOP COMPARING THE ILX TO THOSE CARS. I am not. Those cars are in another class; NOT luxury.
Compared to the correct class the ILX is cheaper then them all.
And 100k is quite impressive this early. He just posted a thread go tell him how uninteresting it is.
As for being a fanboy, that I am not. If I was sitting here telling you the ILX is BETTER than the cars you have mentioned then I can see you calling me a fanboy. But I'm simply telling you to stop comparing apples to bananas. Compare the ILX the those in it's class, not those you feel are similar.
I've stated what I felt very plainly. What am I implying here?
I do love my ILX. It works for me. Not saying it's my dream car. But I am enjoying my purchase as I knew what I would be buying.
If you are happy with the power then yes you knew what you were buying. If you are one of those that feel its too slow then you did not know. Telling someone to NOT buy a car they KNOW they enjoy is poor advice. Telling someone to educate themselves before the purchase is far better advice.
You clearly aren't catching my drift. STOP COMPARING THE ILX TO THOSE CARS. I am not. Those cars are in another class; NOT luxury.
Compared to the correct class the ILX is cheaper then them all.
And 100k is quite impressive this early. He just posted a thread go tell him how uninteresting it is.
I said it's not impressive being so familiar with implying things I figured you caught what I meant. The fact you deciphered this as "uninteresting" speaks volumes to me. IT'S NOT IMPRESSIVE AS I EXPECT ALL OF THE LISTED VEHICLES TO BE ABLE TO MAKE 100K. Now that we've simplified and elaborated that. The cars I mentioned are not "luxury" brands. When I think luxurious I think of ride quality, interior quality, etc.. not the badge. You obviously fancy the badge as the deciding factor.. that's cool. They are in the cars class though. You can live in la-la land and redirect your inability to relate the actual cars themselves all you want. Sure an ILX looks affordable next to a 3 series... That doesn't mean a Mazda 6 is less luxurious.
I didn't catch the definition of luxurious ever stating a fondness for the name and shape of the badge. That's brand association. You're associating the brand with luxury. They could shit in a box, and it would be luxury to you because it says Acura on it. Mazda could repackage a C class and it would still be incomparable to you. That's basically what you've eluded to multiple times.
Stop talking to me like you're superior, more intelligent, or anything other than my equal. Now because you've sat back and only just eluded to all of your snarky remarks you can reply and say "oh man I never said any of that" it's okay. Save it. If it's not the case of you knowing what you're doing its just that you talk like a teenage ricer.
I remember we had some similar words before.. I wonder why I unblocked you. I'll get back to that.
#442
I do not mean to imply you are stupid. I am only saying those that are unsatisfied with the PERFORMANCE of the ILX did not know what they were purchasing. The performance is spelled out for everyone and a test drive will show the rest how quick it is.
I said it's not impressive being so familiar with implying things I figured you caught what I meant. The fact you deciphered this as "uninteresting" speaks volumes to me. IT'S NOT IMPRESSIVE AS I EXPECT ALL OF THE LISTED VEHICLES TO BE ABLE TO MAKE 100K. Now that we've simplified and elaborated that.
Total Maintenance Cost: $2,603.31
Key Notes:
15 Oil & Filter Changes (0W20 Oil)
4 Engine Air Filter Replacements
1 Recall (5,392 Miles)
2 Sets of Michelin Pilot MXM4 Tires (52,327 Miles)
1 Rear Brake Pad Replacement (96,461 Miles)
Key Notes:
15 Oil & Filter Changes (0W20 Oil)
4 Engine Air Filter Replacements
1 Recall (5,392 Miles)
2 Sets of Michelin Pilot MXM4 Tires (52,327 Miles)
1 Rear Brake Pad Replacement (96,461 Miles)
The cars I mentioned are not "luxury" brands. When I think luxurious I think of ride quality, interior quality, etc.. not the badge. You obviously fancy the badge as the deciding factor.. that's cool. They are in the cars class though. You can live in la-la land and redirect your inability to relate the actual cars themselves all you want. Sure an ILX looks affordable next to a 3 series... That doesn't mean a Mazda 6 is less luxurious.
Continue with you personal insults it doesn't strengthen your argument any.
Well let's take a look at the Mazda 6... The 6speed is under powered compared to even the ILX.
Aside from that, luxury wise they are pretty much matched whistle for whistle.
Though keep in minds the 6 with the most tech... like the ILX, is not available in manual. So the manual Mazda 6 has NO heated front seats, NO HID lights... in fact the specs list on mazda doesnt even mention auto on/off headlights, MOONROOF, and for the auto paddle shifters until you hit the best package which as I stated doesnt include a manual.
So I mean if you switched over to the manual 6 speed Mazda 6 you would lose out on a lot of creature comforts you got stock with the Premium ILX 6speed... so yes the Mazda is less luxurious all around. Sorry.
I didn't catch the definition of luxurious ever stating a fondness for the name and shape of the badge. That's brand association. You're associating the brand with luxury. They could shit in a box, and it would be luxury to you because it says Acura on it. Mazda could repackage a C class and it would still be incomparable to you. That's basically what you've eluded to multiple times.
Stop talking to me like you're superior, more intelligent, or anything other than my equal. Now because you've sat back and only just eluded to all of your snarky remarks you can reply and say "oh man I never said any of that" it's okay. Save it. If it's not the case of you knowing what you're doing its just that you talk like a teenage ricer.
I said what I said and apologies for where things got confused and misinterpreted.
Please though, how am I a ricer?
Oh wait, I forgot you wont even see this post. You aren't being the bigger man; you're tossing shit into the fan then taking cover.
#443
Cruisin'
I've briefly skimmed the 12 pages on this forum. It seems there is no fix. Someone replaced their shocks and still has the sound, and another replaced the bushings and that didn't help. So, is there any indication that Acura may have had a bad batch of shocks?
I have a 2013 ILX 2.0 Premium with ~30k miles. The sound mine makes is a slight thud after the shock rebounds. It does not make it when going over large bumps or speed bumps, instead it makes the sound when there are small undulations in the pavement.
I have a 2013 ILX 2.0 Premium with ~30k miles. The sound mine makes is a slight thud after the shock rebounds. It does not make it when going over large bumps or speed bumps, instead it makes the sound when there are small undulations in the pavement.
#444
I've briefly skimmed the 12 pages on this forum. It seems there is no fix. Someone replaced their shocks and still has the sound, and another replaced the bushings and that didn't help. So, is there any indication that Acura may have had a bad batch of shocks?
I have a 2013 ILX 2.0 Premium with ~30k miles. The sound mine makes is a slight thud after the shock rebounds. It does not make it when going over large bumps or speed bumps, instead it makes the sound when there are small undulations in the pavement.
I have a 2013 ILX 2.0 Premium with ~30k miles. The sound mine makes is a slight thud after the shock rebounds. It does not make it when going over large bumps or speed bumps, instead it makes the sound when there are small undulations in the pavement.
I am waiting for someone with the sound to replace the entire suspension piece... like install a full set of coilovers. But so far the people modding their suspension hasn't witnessed the sound.
#445
I have a 2014 ILX and so far, I have not heard the banging that my 2013 RDX had. That being said, it is not very cold yet so I am not jumping for joy quite yet.
Overall, I am quite happy with my ILX but I got a really good deal on it. I never imagined that I would enjoy this little car as much as I do....but I do! I had a TL and while the power of the TL was amazing, the ILX is just such a fun little car. Yes, it could use better noise insulation from the road noise but otherise, I love it!
Overall, I am quite happy with my ILX but I got a really good deal on it. I never imagined that I would enjoy this little car as much as I do....but I do! I had a TL and while the power of the TL was amazing, the ILX is just such a fun little car. Yes, it could use better noise insulation from the road noise but otherise, I love it!
#446
I think I hear the same thing in the back. My thoughts were exactly what you said. The spare tire cover is light and when I hit a bump or anything it may jump and cause a thump noise. The trunk is empty, so maybe putting something in there would fix it. Only one way to find out.
#447
Racer
Thread Starter
I think I hear the same thing in the back. My thoughts were exactly what you said. The spare tire cover is light and when I hit a bump or anything it may jump and cause a thump noise. The trunk is empty, so maybe putting something in there would fix it. Only one way to find out.
The following users liked this post:
mgalbr22 (04-12-2015)
#448
If it's the strut then why did another user replace the shocks with aftermarket ones and get no change in sound.
#449
In short, the repair technician told me are quite a few ILX and RDX owners complaining about the suspension on their cars, and that Acura gave them directive to replaces the struts if anyone comes in complaining. He also told me that Acura is working with the supplier for an improved part and that the next time my A1 service pops up, it may be ready by then.
#450
Spirited Driver, you said you have your shocks swapped a second time with Non Acura shocks correct?
#452
Suspension Noise
I found this post searching for something unrelated. I made an account just to make this post, and I'm already regretting it. It took way too long to get registered. anyhoo...
I have many years in engineering, design and production for ride, handling and shock absorbers in the auto industry. Reflecting on that just now, what I have I done with my life? I know how forums work, so I know nobody will believe anything I say, so I won't waste more time on my qualifications. ANYhoo...
The noise you all are describing is called "shock chuckle" or "loose lumber" depending on the company and ride engineers you are working with. If you describe the noise to the dealership as a "loose lumber" sound, it may help with the diagnosis which will come back to what you have already identified as a strut noise.
The reason swapping the struts does not fix the problem is because it is designed into the part/car. Unfortunately it is one of those things that is dependent on a lot of complicated systems and is time consuming to find and fix.
Even then, if the fix is expensive, like a structural frame stamping change, the company may opt to not fix it. Why? if you change a frame stamping, the crash results may come into question. Anybody at Honda that stands up and says they want to change the frame to fix a small noise experienced by a small number of people and re-qualify the car with NHTSA will be designing ignition switches for GM in their next job. (not that there's anything wrong with that)
Shock chuckle (loose lumber) is caused by a resonate frequency of the shock(usually) or the frame of the car. It does not take a large input (bump) to create the resonance or "ring". In fact small bumps is where it is typically excited because a large bump will get damped out or the other noises around it will drown it out. It's a very difficult problem to solve. It could be any number of things causing it. If the engineers are lucky, a simple valve code change may fix it.
If any Honda engineers find this post, some possible things off the top of my head;
On the shock design:
-resonance of the shock rod, exciting the frame or subframe. (add or subtract mass)
-high stiction (good luck, but start with the obvious seals)
-fluid resonance (air or oil volume change)
-too sharp closing or delta between open/close of the valve. Ironically because the parts get made very close to print and work as designed. The seal of the valve is then better and faster.(design or if lucky valve change)
On the car design:
-frame or subframe resonance freq too close to shock rod freq. (Mass damper, now that it is in production)
-rubber compound with too high damping or dynamic rate. (Change rubber compound)
-"oil canning" of a stamping close to the shock mount (mass damper or die change to add curvature or stiffness)
Good Luck Everyone!
I have many years in engineering, design and production for ride, handling and shock absorbers in the auto industry. Reflecting on that just now, what I have I done with my life? I know how forums work, so I know nobody will believe anything I say, so I won't waste more time on my qualifications. ANYhoo...
The noise you all are describing is called "shock chuckle" or "loose lumber" depending on the company and ride engineers you are working with. If you describe the noise to the dealership as a "loose lumber" sound, it may help with the diagnosis which will come back to what you have already identified as a strut noise.
The reason swapping the struts does not fix the problem is because it is designed into the part/car. Unfortunately it is one of those things that is dependent on a lot of complicated systems and is time consuming to find and fix.
Even then, if the fix is expensive, like a structural frame stamping change, the company may opt to not fix it. Why? if you change a frame stamping, the crash results may come into question. Anybody at Honda that stands up and says they want to change the frame to fix a small noise experienced by a small number of people and re-qualify the car with NHTSA will be designing ignition switches for GM in their next job. (not that there's anything wrong with that)
Shock chuckle (loose lumber) is caused by a resonate frequency of the shock(usually) or the frame of the car. It does not take a large input (bump) to create the resonance or "ring". In fact small bumps is where it is typically excited because a large bump will get damped out or the other noises around it will drown it out. It's a very difficult problem to solve. It could be any number of things causing it. If the engineers are lucky, a simple valve code change may fix it.
If any Honda engineers find this post, some possible things off the top of my head;
On the shock design:
-resonance of the shock rod, exciting the frame or subframe. (add or subtract mass)
-high stiction (good luck, but start with the obvious seals)
-fluid resonance (air or oil volume change)
-too sharp closing or delta between open/close of the valve. Ironically because the parts get made very close to print and work as designed. The seal of the valve is then better and faster.(design or if lucky valve change)
On the car design:
-frame or subframe resonance freq too close to shock rod freq. (Mass damper, now that it is in production)
-rubber compound with too high damping or dynamic rate. (Change rubber compound)
-"oil canning" of a stamping close to the shock mount (mass damper or die change to add curvature or stiffness)
Good Luck Everyone!
The following 3 users liked this post by WillyHung:
#453
I found this post searching for something unrelated. I made an account just to make this post, and I'm already regretting it. It took way too long to get registered. anyhoo...
I have many years in engineering, design and production for ride, handling and shock absorbers in the auto industry. Reflecting on that just now, what I have I done with my life? I know how forums work, so I know nobody will believe anything I say, so I won't waste more time on my qualifications. ANYhoo...
The noise you all are describing is called "shock chuckle" or "loose lumber" depending on the company and ride engineers you are working with. If you describe the noise to the dealership as a "loose lumber" sound, it may help with the diagnosis which will come back to what you have already identified as a strut noise.
The reason swapping the struts does not fix the problem is because it is designed into the part/car. Unfortunately it is one of those things that is dependent on a lot of complicated systems and is time consuming to find and fix.
Even then, if the fix is expensive, like a structural frame stamping change, the company may opt to not fix it. Why? if you change a frame stamping, the crash results may come into question. Anybody at Honda that stands up and says they want to change the frame to fix a small noise experienced by a small number of people and re-qualify the car with NHTSA will be designing ignition switches for GM in their next job. (not that there's anything wrong with that)
Shock chuckle (loose lumber) is caused by a resonate frequency of the shock(usually) or the frame of the car. It does not take a large input (bump) to create the resonance or "ring". In fact small bumps is where it is typically excited because a large bump will get damped out or the other noises around it will drown it out. It's a very difficult problem to solve. It could be any number of things causing it. If the engineers are lucky, a simple valve code change may fix it.
If any Honda engineers find this post, some possible things off the top of my head;
On the shock design:
-resonance of the shock rod, exciting the frame or subframe. (add or subtract mass)
-high stiction (good luck, but start with the obvious seals)
-fluid resonance (air or oil volume change)
-too sharp closing or delta between open/close of the valve. Ironically because the parts get made very close to print and work as designed. The seal of the valve is then better and faster.(design or if lucky valve change)
On the car design:
-frame or subframe resonance freq too close to shock rod freq. (Mass damper, now that it is in production)
-rubber compound with too high damping or dynamic rate. (Change rubber compound)
-"oil canning" of a stamping close to the shock mount (mass damper or die change to add curvature or stiffness)
Good Luck Everyone!
I have many years in engineering, design and production for ride, handling and shock absorbers in the auto industry. Reflecting on that just now, what I have I done with my life? I know how forums work, so I know nobody will believe anything I say, so I won't waste more time on my qualifications. ANYhoo...
The noise you all are describing is called "shock chuckle" or "loose lumber" depending on the company and ride engineers you are working with. If you describe the noise to the dealership as a "loose lumber" sound, it may help with the diagnosis which will come back to what you have already identified as a strut noise.
The reason swapping the struts does not fix the problem is because it is designed into the part/car. Unfortunately it is one of those things that is dependent on a lot of complicated systems and is time consuming to find and fix.
Even then, if the fix is expensive, like a structural frame stamping change, the company may opt to not fix it. Why? if you change a frame stamping, the crash results may come into question. Anybody at Honda that stands up and says they want to change the frame to fix a small noise experienced by a small number of people and re-qualify the car with NHTSA will be designing ignition switches for GM in their next job. (not that there's anything wrong with that)
Shock chuckle (loose lumber) is caused by a resonate frequency of the shock(usually) or the frame of the car. It does not take a large input (bump) to create the resonance or "ring". In fact small bumps is where it is typically excited because a large bump will get damped out or the other noises around it will drown it out. It's a very difficult problem to solve. It could be any number of things causing it. If the engineers are lucky, a simple valve code change may fix it.
If any Honda engineers find this post, some possible things off the top of my head;
On the shock design:
-resonance of the shock rod, exciting the frame or subframe. (add or subtract mass)
-high stiction (good luck, but start with the obvious seals)
-fluid resonance (air or oil volume change)
-too sharp closing or delta between open/close of the valve. Ironically because the parts get made very close to print and work as designed. The seal of the valve is then better and faster.(design or if lucky valve change)
On the car design:
-frame or subframe resonance freq too close to shock rod freq. (Mass damper, now that it is in production)
-rubber compound with too high damping or dynamic rate. (Change rubber compound)
-"oil canning" of a stamping close to the shock mount (mass damper or die change to add curvature or stiffness)
Good Luck Everyone!
I don't believe any of it. Hahaha jk.
Thank you for your time. Much appreciated!
#454
Advanced
So I'm kinda having a little issue. Let's say I park my car for a bit. I get out do some errands and get back in. I shift it into drive and slowly drive away. As soon as I hit the brake slightly I hear a clink or some noise coming from the front maybe front passenger side. I took it in and as I explained to him about the noise he said that that's the famous acura noise so idk. That there's play room in the front with something I forgot what he said so I just left it. I do wanna go back in and double check and actually let them hear this clink noise when I brake. It's not all the time when I brake it's only when my car has been parked and I get it and take off and that first pump of the brake I get that noise.
#455
Racer
Thread Starter
So I'm kinda having a little issue. Let's say I park my car for a bit. I get out do some errands and get back in. I shift it into drive and slowly drive away. As soon as I hit the brake slightly I hear a clink or some noise coming from the front maybe front passenger side. I took it in and as I explained to him about the noise he said that that's the famous acura noise so idk. That there's play room in the front with something I forgot what he said so I just left it. I do wanna go back in and double check and actually let them hear this clink noise when I brake. It's not all the time when I brake it's only when my car has been parked and I get it and take off and that first pump of the brake I get that noise.
Acura's quality is a mess. The ILX has far too many things that have not been tested for under colder temperatures.
#456
Instructor
#457
My brakes or some part of the system loudly "clank" when you release the brake pedal in colder weather. Very noticeable. (2013 ILX Auto, Tech with 23000 miles) It took several trips to convince the dealer this was not normal. They have had the car for over a week and left it sit in the cold to get the noise to replicate. So far they have replaced the master cylinder but it still makes the noise. Kudos to the dealer for continuing to talk to the zone repair folks for other possibilities. Also ruled out were disc pad noise since the brakes are up to spec. Fortunately we have a loaner so they can take their time.
As for the rear suspension, it is a choppy ride on a good day. Also noisy when cold
As for the rear suspension, it is a choppy ride on a good day. Also noisy when cold
#458
Racer
Thread Starter
Absolutely NOT!
On my fourth (4th) set of rear struts. Complete nightmare of an experience with this car!
Acura has done ZERO to correct this in 2+ years, aside from replacing with the same part, and then saying it's a "characteristic" of the car when they replaced it the second and forth time around. Complete joke!
On my fourth (4th) set of rear struts. Complete nightmare of an experience with this car!
Acura has done ZERO to correct this in 2+ years, aside from replacing with the same part, and then saying it's a "characteristic" of the car when they replaced it the second and forth time around. Complete joke!
Last edited by Spirited Driver; 01-26-2015 at 08:03 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mgalbr22 (04-12-2015)
#459
Racer
Thread Starter
My brakes or some part of the system loudly "clank" when you release the brake pedal in colder weather. Very noticeable. (2013 ILX Auto, Tech with 23000 miles) It took several trips to convince the dealer this was not normal. They have had the car for over a week and left it sit in the cold to get the noise to replicate. So far they have replaced the master cylinder but it still makes the noise. Kudos to the dealer for continuing to talk to the zone repair folks for other possibilities. Also ruled out were disc pad noise since the brakes are up to spec. Fortunately we have a loaner so they can take their time.
As for the rear suspension, it is a choppy ride on a good day. Also noisy when cold
As for the rear suspension, it is a choppy ride on a good day. Also noisy when cold
#460
Will do..Hope they find it.
#462
Why Acura hasn't been able to address the problem with Sach's reactive dampers is beyond me, and then keep on adding reactive dampers across the line up. If Acura claims to be reading these boards and concerned about owners perception of the brand, they must have missed this thread.
I am an Acura guy, love the brand, love the cars, love the dealership bur it becoming increasingly difficult to spend my hard earned money on a brand that its engineer seem to care less about the cars they design than the people that drive them....
I know I am likely going to take some flame for stating this, and I don't mean any disrespect to any owners....There is an ILX in our driveway and would love to have a TLX this spring.
The following users liked this post:
mgalbr22 (04-12-2015)
#463
got rid of a 01 cl type S. had 66k on it. got a 13 ilx had 20k. it does ride a bit harder. the ilx drives like a dream to my cl, but not as quiet and when i hit a bump i freak out. i love the car but not up to the acura standerds. would love to have my cl back. 13 yrs on the it, it rode better than my ilx
The following users liked this post:
mgalbr22 (04-12-2015)
#464
Racer
Thread Starter
Curious to see what type of suspension/struts they are going with on the 16 ILX. I would have to think they are not the same Sachs junk setup that we have in our 13-15 ILX's.
You never know, Acura is claiming that the loud thumping noise from the rear, and overall noise coming from the suspension is a "normal characteristic" of the car.
If they did decide to use something else for the 16, that's a clear sign that they've been pulling our legs this whole time with the "normal characteristic" garbage I/we've been getting from them for the past 2+ years.
You never know, Acura is claiming that the loud thumping noise from the rear, and overall noise coming from the suspension is a "normal characteristic" of the car.
If they did decide to use something else for the 16, that's a clear sign that they've been pulling our legs this whole time with the "normal characteristic" garbage I/we've been getting from them for the past 2+ years.
Last edited by Spirited Driver; 01-28-2015 at 07:45 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mgalbr22 (04-12-2015)
#465
My brakes or some part of the system loudly "clank" when you release the brake pedal in colder weather. Very noticeable. (2013 ILX Auto, Tech with 23000 miles) It took several trips to convince the dealer this was not normal. They have had the car for over a week and left it sit in the cold to get the noise to replicate. So far they have replaced the master cylinder but it still makes the noise. Kudos to the dealer for continuing to talk to the zone repair folks for other possibilities. Also ruled out were disc pad noise since the brakes are up to spec. Fortunately we have a loaner so they can take their time.
As for the rear suspension, it is a choppy ride on a good day. Also noisy when cold
As for the rear suspension, it is a choppy ride on a good day. Also noisy when cold
UPDATE: While this turned out not to be a suspension noise, I wanted to post the outcome of the mysterious "clanking" noise when brakes were released at a stop sign.
The dealer kept the car for 11 days, to evaluate the symptoms from a cold car start, first changing the power Brake booster, and then the master cylinder. They worked with the zone reps to figure out what the issue was (began the "clanking" noise nearly a year ago @ 12K miles mostly in cold weather). I do have a feeling there are more "clankers " out there. The dealer loaned us a new ILX during this period so I have to say, in the end, they treated us very well.
That said, it is a leased car that we would not buy at the end of the term.(Nov 15) Might move back to the TL X this next time.
Last edited by robtroxel; 01-30-2015 at 11:17 AM.
#466
Racer
Thread Starter
UPDATE: While this turned out not to be a suspension noise, I wanted to post the outcome of the mysterious "clanking" noise when brakes were released at a stop sign.
The dealer kept the car for 11 days, to evaluate the symptoms from a cold car start, first changing the power Brake booster, and then the master cylinder. They worked with the zone reps to figure out what the issue was (began the "clanking" noise nearly a year ago @ 12K miles mostly in cold weather). I do have a feeling there are more "clankers " out there. The dealer loaned us a new ILX during this period so I have to say, in the end, they treated us very well.
That said, it is a leased car that we would not buy at the end of the term.(Nov 15) Might move back to the TL X this next time.
The dealer kept the car for 11 days, to evaluate the symptoms from a cold car start, first changing the power Brake booster, and then the master cylinder. They worked with the zone reps to figure out what the issue was (began the "clanking" noise nearly a year ago @ 12K miles mostly in cold weather). I do have a feeling there are more "clankers " out there. The dealer loaned us a new ILX during this period so I have to say, in the end, they treated us very well.
That said, it is a leased car that we would not buy at the end of the term.(Nov 15) Might move back to the TL X this next time.
#467
#468
How much time and miles has passed since they changed the master cylinder? I've only heard my brakes do this maybe a handful of time. But I'd still want to fix it under warranty if it can be fixed.
#469
Master cylinder replaced right after the Brake Booster this week. Odometer read 23500 when fixed. Took me a year and several write ups to get them to act on it though.
#470
Racer
Thread Starter
#471
Any updates on this issue?
My GF has a '13 ILX with 38K miles, and I'm pretty sure her car is exhibiting this struts/dampers issue. I rode with her to hear it myself. OMG! It sounds like someone smashes the rear undercarriage with a sledgehammer! I don't know how anyone at Acura can say with a straight face that this is a "normal characteristic" of the car. She has an appointment with her dealer this week.
The following users liked this post:
mgalbr22 (04-12-2015)
#472
^^ Many of us (not all) have/are experienced/ing what you are describing and this is not limited to the ILX but the RDX as well. I am surprised and disappointed that a solution hasn't been found thus far.
#473
My GF has a '13 ILX with 38K miles, and I'm pretty sure her car is exhibiting this struts/dampers issue. I rode with her to hear it myself. OMG! It sounds like someone smashes the rear undercarriage with a sledgehammer! I don't know how anyone at Acura can say with a straight face that this is a "normal characteristic" of the car. She has an appointment with her dealer this week.
Walk into the dealer and tell them you are experiencing a loud noise issue that is concerning and was not present when you made purchase.
Inform them you would like it fixed under warranty as this was now how you bought the car.
I am really interested to hear the response to simply "this is not how I bought it." They can't argue that it is normal if you say it didnt drive like this when you signed the papers.
#474
Advanced
Is there a KBY shock replacement for this vehicle? Just use the part #s off a 2013-14 Honda Civic EX-L since it's the same platform? From the Civic SI sedan? Maybe even use the OEM shocks from these cars?
#475
^^ Someone had mentioned earlier in this thread (which I know is super long) that the Honda Civic's rear shocks would do but not sure if they meant the SI or the regular Civic. I am pretty sure the SI's version would fit...but some guys with more experience will chime in for sure.
Actually, I looked back and it was the user "usdmJon" that gave me the information....Can you confirm that the SI rear shocks would help usdmJon?
Actually, I looked back and it was the user "usdmJon" that gave me the information....Can you confirm that the SI rear shocks would help usdmJon?
Last edited by weather; 03-19-2015 at 05:36 PM.
#476
^^ Someone had mentioned earlier in this thread (which I know is super long) that the Honda Civic's rear shocks would do but not sure if they meant the SI or the regular Civic. I am pretty sure the SI's version would fit...but some guys with more experience will chime in for sure.
Actually, I looked back and it was the user "usdmJon" that gave me the information....Can you confirm that the SI rear shocks would help usdmJon?
Actually, I looked back and it was the user "usdmJon" that gave me the information....Can you confirm that the SI rear shocks would help usdmJon?
I purchased my H&R springs I believe for a 1.8l civic... or the non si.
However I don't know if the 2.4 and 2.0 have the same suspension.
As for would this "help" I am not sure. No one really knows where the sound is coming from. If the sound comes from the shock ALONE then yes replacing them with shocks from a civic would eliminate the sound. IF it is only the shocks that is.
The following users liked this post:
weather (03-19-2015)
#477
It looks like my car (2014 2.4) has also developed a problem with the "loose lumber" sound from the rear suspension. The rear right damper seems to be the issue. I'm going to make an appointment and see what my dealer (Park Ave Acura) does for me. Let's see how these guys perform. This will be my 1st trip into them since buying the car, so this will be my 1st experience with any Acura service department.
#480
I´m from Merida, Mexico (200 miles from Cancun) in my city we dont have Acura.
I bought a ILX 2013 in Acura Cancun.
The same noise in front suspension since first day
I call several times to the dealer and they told me they were expecting the solution by Acura.
6 months ago take my car to a Honda dealer in my city and they changed the whole front suspension and the noise was still there.
I leave the car three days to do more tests and they said they used microphones and speakers, located the noise in the motor bracket.
Last week arrived the part and changed it, so far I have not heard the noise.
I hope not to hear the noise again.
I bought a ILX 2013 in Acura Cancun.
The same noise in front suspension since first day
I call several times to the dealer and they told me they were expecting the solution by Acura.
6 months ago take my car to a Honda dealer in my city and they changed the whole front suspension and the noise was still there.
I leave the car three days to do more tests and they said they used microphones and speakers, located the noise in the motor bracket.
Last week arrived the part and changed it, so far I have not heard the noise.
I hope not to hear the noise again.