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No. I had them swapped twice with Acura OEM shocks. Same problem. Did not fix anything. Same persistent noise.
Same experience with my RLX front shocks. Third set. The rears are defective but no "fix"available from Acura.
The 2015 MDX has the same defect, at least in the rear, based on 10 days driving a brand new one as a loaner. TLX had none of it.
I found this post searching for something unrelated. I made an account just to make this post, and I'm already regretting it. It took way too long to get registered. anyhoo...
I have many years in engineering, design and production for ride, handling and shock absorbers in the auto industry. Reflecting on that just now, what I have I done with my life? I know how forums work, so I know nobody will believe anything I say, so I won't waste more time on my qualifications. ANYhoo...
The noise you all are describing is called "shock chuckle" or "loose lumber" depending on the company and ride engineers you are working with. If you describe the noise to the dealership as a "loose lumber" sound, it may help with the diagnosis which will come back to what you have already identified as a strut noise.
The reason swapping the struts does not fix the problem is because it is designed into the part/car. Unfortunately it is one of those things that is dependent on a lot of complicated systems and is time consuming to find and fix.
Even then, if the fix is expensive, like a structural frame stamping change, the company may opt to not fix it. Why? if you change a frame stamping, the crash results may come into question. Anybody at Honda that stands up and says they want to change the frame to fix a small noise experienced by a small number of people and re-qualify the car with NHTSA will be designing ignition switches for GM in their next job. (not that there's anything wrong with that)
Shock chuckle (loose lumber) is caused by a resonate frequency of the shock(usually) or the frame of the car. It does not take a large input (bump) to create the resonance or "ring". In fact small bumps is where it is typically excited because a large bump will get damped out or the other noises around it will drown it out. It's a very difficult problem to solve. It could be any number of things causing it. If the engineers are lucky, a simple valve code change may fix it.
If any Honda engineers find this post, some possible things off the top of my head;
On the shock design:
-resonance of the shock rod, exciting the frame or subframe. (add or subtract mass)
-high stiction (good luck, but start with the obvious seals)
-fluid resonance (air or oil volume change)
-too sharp closing or delta between open/close of the valve. Ironically because the parts get made very close to print and work as designed. The seal of the valve is then better and faster.(design or if lucky valve change)
On the car design:
-frame or subframe resonance freq too close to shock rod freq. (Mass damper, now that it is in production)
-rubber compound with too high damping or dynamic rate. (Change rubber compound)
-"oil canning" of a stamping close to the shock mount (mass damper or die change to add curvature or stiffness)
Good Luck Everyone!
While researching this defect in my RLX, I found an SAE paper describing the "loose lumber" effect. Sounds like you have been on the front lines of developing suspension systems.
How does Honda/acura manage to repeat the same design error on so many of their vehicles given the well-known nature of this defect?! ILX,RLX,MDX, RDX?
Is there a single ignition switch release engineer for the suspension for all of these vehicles?
got rid of a 01 cl type S. had 66k on it. got a 13 ilx had 20k. it does ride a bit harder. the ilx drives like a dream to my cl, but not as quiet and when i hit a bump i freak out. i love the car but not up to the acura standerds. would love to have my cl back. 13 yrs on the it, it rode better than my ilx
Ever since I traded my 2010 TL SHAWD for an RLX tech, I have wished the same thing.
Curious to see what type of suspension/struts they are going with on the 16 ILX. I would have to think they are not the same Sachs junk setup that we have in our 13-15 ILX's.
You never know, Acura is claiming that the loud thumping noise from the rear, and overall noise coming from the suspension is a "normal characteristic" of the car.
If they did decide to use something else for the 16, that's a clear sign that they've been pulling our legs this whole time with the "normal characteristic" garbage I/we've been getting from them for the past 2+ years.
Check the acura website for the "enhancements" to the RLX suspension. Sounds like this is what they've done. No idea whether they've corrected the problem, but the 2014 and 2015 owners can rot apparently.
^^ I wished I would have kept my beyond pristine 2012 SH-AWD TL last fall....Given the issues with the TLX, it has left me no choice but to stray to another brand but I guess Acura never thought that customer loyalty was important enough to them....So I left.
After a few visits and complaints to a different dealer, I was able to finally able to get the issues resolved. The problem on my 2013 ILX was progressively getting worse to a point where the dealer couldn't say it is "normal road noise". The dealer replaced the right rear shock assembly and the noise has now gone away. I had asked why both were not done and I was told that only the right was making the noise and that is what could be replaced under warranty. I had pushed to get them both done as I am sure if I were paying for the repair the dealer would have strongly recommended that both get done. Anyone think I should be concerned with that fact that only one side was done?
I was hearing the same crunching noise from the rear driver's side so my dealership replaced the shock. 15,000 miles. It seemed to work, but the first time I drove the car after picking it up, the belly pan came unattached and started scraping the road. It happened when i got to about 60 mph going over a big suspension bridge. Any idea if you have to take the belly pan off to replace a shock? They are saying I hit something that made the belly pan come off, but I didn't. Costing me $270 today to get a new one.
Many thanks to those who helped me with my ILX rear shock issues (via my lurking) To give you some background I turned wrenches professionally for a number of years before moving into the software world and my best friend is a head tech at a high end shop, so he's use to people mentioning noises, such as people like us who notice the noises and care about our cars. My end all solution (worked for me):
Bought the car 3 months ago used, 14k miles sounded like it needed links or bushings. Rattled bad in the rear. Dealer replaced links. Pickup car, same issue. They then replaced right rear shock with new part number OEM. Great car is 80% there, less rattle but slammed over bumps as if somethings was flopping or loose in trunk. Finally gave up on them saying it was "normal" and put my mechanic hat back on along with my buddy.
Took all the interior panels out in the trunk and the spare. Noises still there. Drove down the street with him in the trunk and backseat down. (Yes it's a quiet dead end industrial complex at night lol)
First issue, trunk lid was loose. Adjusted latch. 95% there now.
Second issue. That recently replaced brandy new shock is exhibiting a lot of noise. Especially over large bumps, the other isn't. We agree it must be a shock. After reading this forum, and a desire to stick oem (too many bad experiences with aftermarket) ended up replacing both rears with a set of 2013 civic si Oem shocks. From a yard with 20k on them for $40. Took the gamble as someone (hand-filer) on another forum said this is a good solution (similar shock design, different vehicle) No modifications, direct bolt in. Problem solved.
Has anyone in their 2016 ILX experienced this issue? I wonder if us 13'-15' guys are able to swap in the new part numbered suspension components for the 2016+.
The shock design from the Civic Si to the ILX is quite different, thats why I was wondering if anyone has tried the 16' ILX shocks.
Id assume had anyone tired 2016 struts they would have said so.
The user above you said he installed 2013 Civic SI struts no issues, direct bolt on, problem solved.
Advice was given. You should take it verse asking about other parts not mentioned.
Also Aaron posted this yesterday in the performance section regarding suspension:
2012-13 Civic Si =2013-15 Acura ILX (all models)
2014-2015 Si = 2016 Acura ILX
2016 Honda Civic EX has different suspension so that if the 2017 ILX is sharing the same chassis again than it is completely different.
Id assume had anyone tired 2016 struts they would have said so.
The user above you said he installed 2013 Civic SI struts no issues, direct bolt on, problem solved.
Advice was given. You should take it verse asking about other parts not mentioned.
Also Aaron posted this yesterday in the performance section regarding suspension:
From that I take it 2016 struts wont fit.
Not sure what is up your ass, I was just asking a question.
So I ask again. Are you going to take that advice or ignore it and keep asking if this was fixed yet?
I dont see why you keep asking here. If acura changes something you can be sure it will be posted here. Until then, one owner has told you what to do so Id attempt that before posting here again.
Apologize if I sound like an ass but a fix was given. Why not try it?
Many thanks to those who helped me with my ILX rear shock issues (via my lurking) To give you some background I turned wrenches professionally for a number of years before moving into the software world and my best friend is a head tech at a high end shop, so he's use to people mentioning noises, such as people like us who notice the noises and care about our cars. My end all solution (worked for me):
Bought the car 3 months ago used, 14k miles sounded like it needed links or bushings. Rattled bad in the rear. Dealer replaced links. Pickup car, same issue. They then replaced right rear shock with new part number OEM. Great car is 80% there, less rattle but slammed over bumps as if somethings was flopping or loose in trunk. Finally gave up on them saying it was "normal" and put my mechanic hat back on along with my buddy.
Took all the interior panels out in the trunk and the spare. Noises still there. Drove down the street with him in the trunk and backseat down. (Yes it's a quiet dead end industrial complex at night lol)
First issue, trunk lid was loose. Adjusted latch. 95% there now.
Second issue. That recently replaced brandy new shock is exhibiting a lot of noise. Especially over large bumps, the other isn't. We agree it must be a shock. After reading this forum, and a desire to stick oem (too many bad experiences with aftermarket) ended up replacing both rears with a set of 2013 civic si Oem shocks. From a yard with 20k on them for $40. Took the gamble as someone (hand-filer) on another forum said this is a good solution (similar shock design, different vehicle) No modifications, direct bolt in. Problem solved.
I recently had my shocks replaced, again this time they were supposed to be an upgrade. Same result, "loose lumber" noise when driving. I removed the trunk liner thinking just maybe it was flapping, no luck there either. Tried driving with teh seat down, no difference. The dealer checked the trunk latch and back seat latch, all tight.That is as far as I go other than try the Civic shocks. What year is your ILX? Mine is 2014. Should I specifically use 2013 civic si Oem shocks? Is there a part number for these? Might as well try it.
I can definitely say the 16 ILX fixed the issue. I had a 14 RLX Advanced that was riddled with the loose-lumber noise, among tons of other quality control issues. The 16 ILX suspension is light-years better than what was in my RLX. Ride handling feels much more confident, you still have the tight responsive sporty suspension that Acura became known for, but with just the right amount of compliance and shock absorption to make it comfortable.
Originally posted by nothome17;
If new shocks didn't help, try changing out the dampers.
Whats a damper? Should I try a damper from a Civic if so what year? Is there a part number? Thanks
Still hoping to hear from anyone else that might have tried the Civic shock replacement as well.
Whats a damper? Should I try a damper from a Civic if so what year? Is there a part number? Thanks
Still hoping to hear from anyone else that might have tried the Civic shock replacement as well.
Sorry, ment to post, it could be the stabilizer link (sway bar)
I remember my wifey's 2006 TSX started creaking/squeaking when I changed out the Sway bar. The Link to the sway bar made the creaking/squeaking noises.
Many thanks to those who helped me with my ILX rear shock issues (via my lurking) To give you some background I turned wrenches professionally for a number of years before moving into the software world and my best friend is a head tech at a high end shop, so he's use to people mentioning noises, such as people like us who notice the noises and care about our cars. My end all solution (worked for me):
Bought the car 3 months ago used, 14k miles sounded like it needed links or bushings. Rattled bad in the rear. Dealer replaced links. Pickup car, same issue. They then replaced right rear shock with new part number OEM. Great car is 80% there, less rattle but slammed over bumps as if somethings was flopping or loose in trunk. Finally gave up on them saying it was "normal" and put my mechanic hat back on along with my buddy.
Took all the interior panels out in the trunk and the spare. Noises still there. Drove down the street with him in the trunk and backseat down. (Yes it's a quiet dead end industrial complex at night lol)
First issue, trunk lid was loose. Adjusted latch. 95% there now.
Second issue. That recently replaced brandy new shock is exhibiting a lot of noise. Especially over large bumps, the other isn't. We agree it must be a shock. After reading this forum, and a desire to stick oem (too many bad experiences with aftermarket) ended up replacing both rears with a set of 2013 civic si Oem shocks. From a yard with 20k on them for $40. Took the gamble as someone (hand-filer) on another forum said this is a good solution (similar shock design, different vehicle) No modifications, direct bolt in. Problem solved.
I recently had my shocks replaced, again this time they were supposed to be an upgrade. Same result, "loose lumber" noise when driving. I removed the trunk liner thinking just maybe it was flapping, no luck there either. Tried driving with teh seat down, no difference. The dealer checked the trunk latch and back seat latch, all tight.That is as far as I go other than try the Civic shocks. What year is your ILX? Mine is 2014. Should I specifically use 2013 civic si Oem shocks? Is there a part number for these? Might as well try it.
So no one except for this one poster has tried the shock replacement using the Civic shocks even though so many members are complaining of this issue? I ask again because I want to try but do not want to make things worse by installing something not designed for the vehicle. Should I install 2014 Civic shocks or ?
Hopefully nobody minds me bringing back this old thread..
I just installed Civic rear shocks into my '14 ILX (44k miles, 2.4L), and the sound does not seem to have changed much. The loose lumber sound is still there. I used a new pair of Excel-G KYB348066. Do you think I made a mistake to use the Civic shocks?
Note-- they do bolt right in, but the shaft is about an inch shorter on the Civic shocks. This means that the thick upper shock washer that comes with the ILX shocks cannot be carried over because then you won't be able to get more than half of the nut threaded onto the top of the shock. I solved this problem by using the bottom washer from the old shocks as the top washer on the new shocks. I had to cut the shaft of the old shocks in order to get this washer free. Aside from that issue, they bolted on just fine.
Also-- I do have an upgraded rear sway bar, so that's probably not helping the situation.
Hopefully nobody minds me bringing back this old thread..
I just installed Civic rear shocks into my '14 ILX (44k miles, 2.4L), and the sound does not seem to have changed much. The loose lumber sound is still there. I used a new pair of Excel-G KYB348066. Do you think I made a mistake to use the Civic shocks?
Note-- they do bolt right in, but the shaft is about an inch shorter on the Civic shocks. This means that the thick upper shock washer that comes with the ILX shocks cannot be carried over because then you won't be able to get more than half of the nut threaded onto the top of the shock. I solved this problem by using the bottom washer from the old shocks as the top washer on the new shocks. I had to cut the shaft of the old shocks in order to get this washer free. Aside from that issue, they bolted on just fine.
Also-- I do have an upgraded rear sway bar, so that's probably not helping the situation.
Too bad your recent work did not help this issue we are all experiencing. I was going to resurrect this thread as well to warn owners not to waste their time but on another front, CANVAP. I applied for arbitration through CANVAP in Canada and it sounded pretty good that I might actually get some resolution through the process, Acura might have to buy the vehicle back if I could prove a defect. I started the process in August of 2016, the process was supposed to be fast with an award given in just weeks. Weeks turned into months and one year later I was going to arbitration in July of 2017. The manufacturer was aware that the "loose lumber" noise is much worse in minus weather conditions and they made sure to drag their heels long enough to have the hearing and inspection held in the height of summer. There is absolutely no penalty for being late to trial as it is a voluntary arbitration plan. I could go on about how one sided this arbitration is but take the advice from someone who went the distance, don't waste your time. The entire process is stacked in the manufacturers favor, big time.
I did however get a chance on multiple occasions to view the underside of this vehicle while up on a hoist. It might be news to some, if anyone still cares about the problem is that the entire undercarriage is covered with thin stiff plastic. This plastic is in a few sections that run the length of the entire under body and are fastened to the frame with plastic pressure pins. I am not an expert in trouble shooting but I believe that when weather conditions drop to extreme minus temperature conditions plastic will become very stiff and possibly shrink a bit. That panel stiffness and possible shrinkage of the anchors might contribute to the loose lumber noise experience by owners of this vehicle. It would be an interesting experiment to remove these underside panels during cold weather to see if they are indeed the cause of the blasted noise.
Also during the arbitration process the manufacturer just happened to get an upgraded shock package and install them which greatly diminished the "loose lumber" noises. So I suppose my year long involvement with CANVAP was not an entire waste of time as this issue has now been relegated to cold months only of which we get 6 months of.
Kiwi2000 I am sorry you've had so much trouble with this. You may be onto something regarding the plastic trim.
My wife drove our ILX today (with the new Civic shocks) and she feels the issue has improved. Maybe I was expecting too much the first day I drove with the new Civic shocks. I will drive it for another week and report back. I need to really get into the city (DC) to see how it behaves on certain roads where, previously, the noise would be especially bad.
I'm curious why Civic owners aren't reporting this problem since the car is essentially the same, and this is what made me think the problem really was the "special" ILX shocks. I was tempted to try upgrading to newer OEM ILX shocks (post-facelift) but, since I was able to get a pair of the KYBs for the Civic for only $75 on eBay, I went that route.
Funny thing is, my car is still under warranty, and I am changing the shocks myself. Lol.
By the way, here are some photos to compare the KYB "Civic" shocks, part KYB348066, to the OEM ILX Shocks. You can see the cylinder is taller on the Civic shock. When the shock is installed, the upper mounting stud does not extend as far up into the truck as it does with the ILX shock. Since you lose about an inch there, you need a thinner washer to put under the nut, in the trunk. I used the original lower washers from the old shocks as top washers on the new shocks.
ILX on left (beat up.. they were hard to pull put)
Follow up on this-- my '14 with new KYB Civic Shocks is still exhibiting the same noise. Changing the shocks did nothing to solve the problem.
I'm thinking bushings at this point, but don't really feel like spending any more time on this. The problem could be a loose gas tank wobbling around for all I know.
Follow up on this-- my '14 with new KYB Civic Shocks is still exhibiting the same noise. Changing the shocks did nothing to solve the problem.
I'm thinking bushings at this point, but don't really feel like spending any more time on this. The problem could be a loose gas tank wobbling around for all I know.
Well through the entire scope of this thread I only read of one person that actually tried the Civic shock swap and reported favorably on it. I can offer that the upgraded shocks installed last winter made a big difference and now I am only annoyed for half of the year while driving instead of what used to be on a daily basis. I wonder if those plastic panels were removed whether this car might then be free of the dreaded loose lumber noise? For myself I have made peace and chose to ignore the noise and live with it. I think the next purchase will be back to Toyota/Lexus who have been in my past experience much more receptive and responsive to any sort of issues that might arise to cause the customer concern. Acura on the other hand went out of their way to ignore my complaints lose my correspondence and files and pass off my complaint from rep to rep until when I involved them in arbitration they could not any longer yet they still dragged that process out to a year for a process that was supposed to be concluded within 70 days, CAMVAP - Canadian Motor Vehicle Arbitration Plan.
Reading through the thread I did not find anyone who has tried 2016+ oem shocks yet. I don't really want to be the Guinea pig but I *might* swap out the KYBs for those if I can't figure anything else out.
I am glad to say I fixed my clunk but sadly I don't think this will help anyone else. I got a friend to bounce up and down on the car, standing on the inside of the frame with the rear door open. I feel pretty silly about this------ my car has an aftermarket rear sway bar and aftermarket Moog end links. I had completely forgotten that these particular end links needed to be greased periodically and so I let them run dry. I am used to sealed end-links. After about 20 minutes of my worn-out friend bouncing on the car with me head underneath, I pulled on an end link and the sound went away. Feeling around I felt the zerk fittings on the ends.
I don't think this knowledge can really help anyone else who has a noise with a non-modified car. One thing that might help, though, is to keep in mind that the Civic shocks DO fit, but you cannot use the OEM upper mounting washer with them. With the sway bar variable, I'm basically useless for data because I can't tell if changing the shocks helped me at all.
I just leased a 18 ILX and I have the same noise, the car only has a little over 200 miles on it. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow morning to see what they can do.
2018 Acura ilx rattles from floor to seats, thumps on pot holes even small imperfections on road, lot of road noise. Took it to dealers , they closed saying not able to see at this time, just 4k miles gone. Any suggestions?
2018 Acura ilx rattles from floor to seats, thumps on pot holes even small imperfections on road, lot of road noise. Took it to dealers , they closed saying not able to see at this time, just 4k miles gone. Any suggestions?
You need to do a little preliminary investigation. Figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. Does it go away if you push on a certain trim piece? Stuff like that will greatly help them find the issue. They are happy to work on your car while you're under warranty because it's easy money they are making from the manufacturer. Also take everything out of the car. Sometimes water bottles, loose change or other random stuff vibrates and sounds like a rattle.
You need to do a little preliminary investigation. Figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. Does it go away if you push on a certain trim piece? Stuff like that will greatly help them find the issue. They are happy to work on your car while you're under warranty because it's easy money they are making from the manufacturer. Also take everything out of the car. Sometimes water bottles, loose change or other random stuff vibrates and sounds like a rattle.
Thanks for the response, it vibrates, I mislead with term rattles. I tried not having anything in car also putting weight and removing thinking empty car vibrates etc., it didn't help.
also there is lot of road noi6se when speed is more than 50.
u mentioned about trim , I did not get that ..can u please elaborate?
04-12-2015, 06:56 AM
riginally posted by Spautodetail
