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Quick question does anybody know what to use to clean the cooler/warmer on the transmission?
You can spray some brake cleaner through the transmission fluid passage in the cooler/warmer and let it evaporate before putting it back on the transmission.
I've got a few questions I'm hoping someone can help with.
1. The AV6 Diagrams are no-longer showing up and was wondering if anyone has links to them?
2. Step 4 - For TL-p only!
Is this the Power steering port that is being referred to?
Does this sensor only handling the power steering or does it do anything else?
Does the new AV6 just handle everything internally now?
Hey Guys just wondering the AV6 trans, does this include the 3.0 Hybrid V6 Trans as well or does it have to be sourced from a non-hybrid only. Just curious because I see a lot of the hybrid trans for sale. I don't know if it is the same trans. Thank you!
There's definitely not 10 to choose from 06/07. There's 2. Hybrid and not hybrid. You want the non hybrid. BAYA. That's the only 2 options. Rest are 4cyl
I can't see the diagrams for the AV6 transmission. Can someone repost them or host? Thanks.
I've attached a pdf of the FAQ with all the images. Big thanks to 666wokker for the writeup. I did this swap on my 2000 TL not too long ago and wouldn't have had the guts to do it without this FAQ.
Can someone please tell me if i can use hybrid trans or does it have to be non hybrid...i see alot of 5th digit..what does that mean? Thank you in advance..
With all this discussion on dome volumes, deck heights, etc, is there an online Dynamic/effective compression ratio calculator that works well for J series engines?
I read this thread many times and printed out what I need to get started. The tranny is already out and have been looking for used tranny for 2 months now. I have given up finding one to buy locally in the Toronto area. One shop even tried to sell me a cracked tranny around the top and drive axle area and said it was okay.
I'm a little weary buying used trannies sight unseen but I ended up ordering the used tranny from Standard Auto. It's a 07 with 70k on it. Hopefully, it's in good shape.
Sounds like a winner! Good luck with the swap. I've got about 40,000 miles on the one I did for my daughter. This forum gave me the confidence to try it. When I told our local trans rebuilder about what I was doing, his comment was "I didn't know you could substitute that trans; they never go bad."
The tranny arrived and I checked the fluid (smells totally normal and looks normal for 73,000km on it). I tested all the solenoids and all work fine. Aside from the tranny housing looking a bit on the corroded side, everything else checks out fine.
But I have a question. There is a tube beside the AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve A/B on the TL that appears to go no where. It comes out of the tranny and loops back down. I don't think it was attached to anything. Don't recall pulling anything out for this. What the heck is this for?
On the Accord tranny, there is the same thing and the end of it is plugged with a red cap. It looks like it wants to go somewhere. Where does it go? No where too?
The tranny arrived and I checked the fluid (smells totally normal and looks normal for 73,000km on it). I tested all the solenoids and all work fine. Aside from the tranny housing looking a bit on the corroded side, everything else checks out fine.
But I have a question. There is a tube beside the AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve A/B on the TL that appears to go no where. It comes out of the tranny and loops back down. I don't think it was attached to anything. Don't recall pulling anything out for this. What the heck is this for?
On the Accord tranny, there is the same thing and the end of it is plugged with a red cap. It looks like it wants to go somewhere. Where does it go? No where too?
That's just a breather tube. Just swap the looped tube and bracket from the TL tranny to the AV6 tranny.
AV6 tranny is now in and of course, I am having problems already!
I added 1 quart of ATF DW-1 into the torque converter and added another 3 quarts into the tranny.
When ignition is in the on position (engine off). D5 is flashing. Pulled a code P1768 (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A)
Prior to installation, I checked the AV6 A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A/B and it clicks fine and the ohm is within tolerance. Filter screens are as clean as a whistle.
Shrugged my shoulders, I fired up the engine and heard loud whining sound coming from tranny again (exactly same as original TL tranny). After 30 seconds, I shifted into D5. Immediately, I heard grinding noises, so I shifted back to park and sound gone. The power steering loop going to the small metal tube is leaking. I need to find a smaller clamp. I used the bigger hose to loop it since the smaller hose won't fit on the big metal tube.
More codes popped up. P1298 (electrical load detector circuit high voltage) along with O2 sensor code (that's my fault, I bent the primary O2 sensor).
Did a quick read here and I probably should have let it idle longer before doing anything. Added another quart and fired up engine for about 1 minute. D5 is blinking but no more whining noises as soon as it started up. I'm afraid to shift into D5 for now.
I'm going to sleep on it. I'll change the A/T clutch pressure A/B solenoid with my original one when I get up.
I think the grinding noise I heard initially was just rusted rotors. But the engine bay does make a quick loud squeak when I shift into drive (btw, front wheels are still jacked up).
I tested the solenoid. It's fine. Reads 5.4ohms. It's the same as the original TL solenoid. Makes click sound when I feed it 12v. I don't know what happened here to get P1768.
I ran the gears and AV6 tranny shifts fine but when I try to go back to Neutral from D5, it doesn't do it 100% as if it's still partially engage. When I shift back to Park and go to neutral, it is okay.
Before I can even diagnose this problem, I noticed a huge puddle just behind front of the rear wheel. The brake line developed a leak. Why oh why. I don't even get a break here! ARRRGGH!
P1768 solved! The 15 amp ECU fuse (bank 6 on driver's side) blew. It immediately blew again with new fuse and simple google search talked about O2 sensor. Eureka! I bent my O2 sensor. I unplugged it and code went away. Now, need to see if I can undo the short on the O2 sensor before I can permanently fix it.
That's 1 of the 3 problems fixed. The brake line is a pain but I know I can fix that. Drive train being partially engaged when shifting from D5 to Neutral is odd too me. It either works or not, not something in between.
Dumped 6 quarts of ATF and I think level still reads a bit below the low line on the dip stick. However, front end is jacked up. Been reading people dumping around 4 quarts for a used tranny is good to go. I'm already at 6. Weird... but stranger things has happened.
Sorry to hear about all your issues. My swap went surprisingly very smooth with no issues at all.
Double check your shifter cable connection. I would put the car in park, disconnect and reconnect the linkage making sure the shift rod is turned completely clockwise before tightening.
As for the ATF capacity, I put 1qt in the torque converter and poured 6qts in after assembly and it was full. I also made sure I drained the tranny completely before installation.
As for the leaky power-steering hose, to avoid that, I used two different sized hoses and a reducing coupler (1/4" -> 3/8") for my loop. See pictures...
I adjusted the range sensor at tiny increments. Did this about 6 times and found a range where it worked. But I can never get the shift from D5 to N to change. I take back what I said about partial shift into N. It was a bad observation. It just simply does not shift from D5 into N. From R to N, is fine.
Vincent: Shift linkage is indeed correct. Fully turned to the clockwise position.
The shift from D5 to N, I do notice a drop in the odo (while front end up in the air). When I shift to drive, the wheels spin faster and vice versa. Sometimes.
I added another quart, so that brings to 7 quarts in total. It is now slightly above the max line.
I gotta do more reading about this. I'm confident this AV6 is not a dud. But I do hear that squeak sound shifting from D5 to P or R to P but I think it's because the wheels maybe still spinning. I'm losing the brakes and fluid fast every time I press on the brake pedal. Of course, the brake line had to burst on me while I'm doing the biggest car project in my life! So frustrating.
Hmmm... I think it's normal. I do feel it disengage from D5 into N and the speedo does drop but when I step on the gas, it goes up again, but not as pronounced as in D5. Only one way to tell is fix my brake lines and drop the car for a test drive.
BTW, if anyone is curious, you can keep the range sensor from the AV6 for a rainy day. Just cut the connector off the TL sensor and hook it up to the AV6 range sensor. I just did that and concluded that the swap is probably okay now.
Update: Problem with respect to tranny is all solved. I test drove last night and AV6 tranny shifts fine. But the brakes and smoothness of ride really sucks right now. The TL has been sitting outside since February. Rusted rotors, flat spot on tire for sitting in one spot too long, etc. The CEL and TCS lights are still on but I reckon it is because of the busted O2 sensor that I'm still waiting in the mail.
All along, it was the stupid brake line burst that threw me way off in my diagnoses. The grinding noise shifting from D5 to P happened because the wheels where still spinning when I shifted into P. I didn't know because I thought I still had enough braking power to completely stop the wheels.
The CEL and TCS lights are still on but I'm betting it has to do with the busted O2 sensor that I'm still waiting for in the mail.
Have to go bleed the brake lines now to get some air out. It works but pretty mushy. Flaring brake lines underneath car is a pain in the butt.
As for the power steering line loop with the different size hose. I couldn't find a reducer coupling in time so I bought a hose clamp and just clamped it down pretty hard. That seemed to have did the trick.
Ok I am new here so just a little about me, I have a 2003 TL-S. It has 314,680 miles. This weekend I am going to swap the engine and Trannie. I foune a 2003 type S engine with 86X miles and 2007 AV6 with 58X miles.last weekend I pulled the engine and tranny out as a package from the top and they are sitting on the floor along side the new engine and AV6 tranny. I plan to install them this coming weekend but want to make sure I do the AV6 swap correctly. I have read and reread the post from 666 on doing the swap and have just a couple of additional questions if someone knows the answers. 1). 666wokker said (In this diagram #'s 5 and 25 need to come off the TL trans and be installed on the AV6 trans - It does need to be adjusted to read the gears correctly, do this after the job is mostly done and the car can be turned on, key on-engine off....) Can someone explain how I adjust this. The next question is: I want to use the AV6 Warmer and I noticed that a few folks said that they kept it as well, what do I need to do to use it. Thanks in advance
Ok I am new here so just a little about me, I have a 2003 TL-S. It has 314,680 miles. This weekend I am going to swap the engine and Trannie. I foune a 2003 type S engine with 86X miles and 2007 AV6 with 58X miles.last weekend I pulled the engine and tranny out as a package from the top and they are sitting on the floor along side the new engine and AV6 tranny. I plan to install them this coming weekend but want to make sure I do the AV6 swap correctly. I have read and reread the post from 666 on doing the swap and have just a couple of additional questions if someone knows the answers. 1). 666wokker said (In this diagram #'s 5 and 25 need to come off the TL trans and be installed on the AV6 trans - It does need to be adjusted to read the gears correctly, do this after the job is mostly done and the car can be turned on, key on-engine off....) Can someone explain how I adjust this. The next question is: I want to use the AV6 Warmer and I noticed that a few folks said that they kept it as well, what do I need to do to use it. Thanks in advance
First, I would like to thank NVA-AV6 (Paul) for the info posted so long ago that made this swap a reality beyond theory.
History:
I first found out about this swap here on Acurazine a couple years ago. At the time there was not as much information on here as there is now, so it took quite a bit of research to dig up the information I needed to equip myself with to do this job. However, I did manage to find everything needed, and realized, this only sounds more intimidating than it really is!
So I bit the bullet and got everything I needed to do it, as the 03 TL I 'just bought' had a blown trans, and I wanted it fixed RIGHT!
I did the swap, and it worked perfectly!
I've been getting alot of questions over the last couple years on how to do this job, and over the last couple years I have done 6 swaps for people, all of which were successful!
And now, on to the info!
REQUIREMENTS
First, this only bolts on to a 00-03 TL, the 99 has a 4 speed trans and totally different wiring harnesses and ECU. *IF* you wanted it to work on a 99, you would have to change out the engine/trans wiring harnesses, dashboard harnesses and ECU..... At that point you may as well swap in a 6mt for negligibly more $$$.
Second, The AV6 trans you will need to source is from the 06-07 v6 3.0 Accord, coupe or sedan does not matter, just make REAL sure the trans is a 5at from a 3.0 v6!
Third, get everything you need for the swap in advance! It makes it alot less brutal when you don't have to source a part or gasket in the middle of the job!
Now, let's get to what needs to be done!
Oh, and I am going to assume you know how to take a trans out and put one in, because THAT is a whole other FAQ!
Items needed to 'swap'!
FIRST The trans harness from the AV6 trans will not work, it has a different connector to tie into the engine harness, you have to use the one from the TL - this harness connects to the trans temp sensor and clutch pressure switch.
AV6 Diagram:
^...#17 is what needs to come off the AV6 trans---^
TL Diagram:
^...#16 is what you need to keep and swap to the AV6 trans in place of #17 in the AV6 diagram.---^
SECOND The oil warmer on the top of the AV6 trans is not the same as the TL, it has different size coolant hoses than the TL, and they are pointed in the wrong directions for a 'bolt on' replacement. It is much easier to simply take the assembly off the TL trans and transplant it to the AV6 trans.
Don't let this part hinder your efforts, they both interchange perfectly without any modifications! Make sure to clean the gasket off very carefully, as putting trash into fluid passages is BAD!
*** This is the 'hardest' part of this swap, and it's not hard! ***
AV6 Diagrams:
^...In this diagram it shows the ATF warmer (#1), filter assembly, and lines (#'s 11, 7, 22, 21, 10, 24, 12, 15, 26, 20, 6, 13, 14)- remove these from the AV6 trans.---^
^...In this diagram is the assembly the ATF warmer bolts to (#'s 6, 22, 10, 21, 9, 23, 24) - remove these from the AV6 trans.---^
TL Diagrams:
^...In this diagram it shows the ATF warmer (#1), filter (#9 - Buy a new one!!!!) and lines (12, 13), remove these from the TL trans, clean them out REAL GOOD, and save to install on the AV6 trans - now, chances are, you have an oil jet kit installed in place of the direct line from the filter to the back of the trans - that's okay! Just cut the oil jet kit out of the lines, flare the cut lines and install a hose in it's place between the 2 cut lines, just make sure your hose is long enough to make it all the way around - just eyeball it based on the original length of the line. Either that or just buy the new lines without the oil jet kit in-between.
^...In this diagram is the passage body (#'s 23 ,24, 25-(Buy this gasket new!!!), 26, 27, 28, 29) the ATF warmer and filter bolt on - remove this and save to install on the AV6 trans.---^
THIRD The trans range switch from the AV6 trans will not work, it has a different connector than the TL range switch - take the one off the TL trans, and install it on the AV6 trans.
AV6 Diagram:
^...In this diagram #'s 5, 27, and 28 need to come off the AV6 trans...^
TL Diagram:
^...In this diagram #'s 5 and 25 need to come off the TL trans and be installed on the AV6 trans - It does need to be adjusted to read the gears correctly, do this after the job is mostly done and the car can be turned on, key on-engine off....^
FOURTH - For TL-p only! You will need to loop the lines coming off the rack going to the power steering assist assembly on the TL trans, the AV6 trans does not have the hole in it for the sensor.
TL Diagram:
# 16 is the sensor assembly - cut the lines off the sensor and install a 2-way barb fitting between the lines with clamps, or take the lines off the rack and install 1 line looped...^
Here's a pic of what it'll look like looped on the rack
ALWAYS REMEMBER! NEVER REUSE YOUR OLD TL TORQUE CONVERTER!
ALWAYS use the AV6 torque converter that was supplied with the trans, or buy a new one!
That's it! Nothing more to it, direct bolt-on, little to no modification, just a bit of parts swapping between the two transmissions!
Anybody in florida know how to do it lol thnks for info just some pics didnt load my phone sucks but now i know av6 is possible
Having read this FAQ I have a question about the difference between the Accord (06-07) and the Odyssey (05-06) swaps. As I understand it, the Odyssey transmission doesn't have the ATF warmer/cooler thing mounted on top of the case. Instead, the Odyssey has hoses attached with banjo bolts. (These hoses run to an ATF cooler on the Odyssey.) When the Odyssey transmission is used for the swap, are the banjo bolts and hoses removed and the warmer/cooler thing put in their place? Does the case have to be drilled and tapped to make this possible? Is it preferable to leave the hoses and banjo bolts in place and to add some kind of external cooler (thereby deleting the TL's standard warmer/cooler)?
Thanks in advance.
Hey guys I am new to the Acura world and unfortunately have found myself in need of completing this swap. I found a used transmission and torque converter and have swapped over all the parts mentioned in this thread. The question I have is, is there a way to tell if the used torque converter is bad or not before I install it? Just wondering if any of you have had any bad experiences installing the use torque converter. Trans has 67,000 miles on it.
Best ways to know if the TQ is bad is by looking its color... A healthy but removed TQ should only be a little bit stained by Oxidize but the color should be pretty flat.
A bad TQ is one that looks black from extreme heat, there should be discoloration and a rainbow effect in it.. That tells you if the TQ has been overheated to death and avoid it at all costs.
soo I've been following and non stop searching everything and anything about a fix for a bad transmission, i have an 03 TL-S that will only shift when its first started even though it shifts about 10-15 sec after i physically shift it. i tried changing the oil and spin on/off filter (helped the car stay alive for about 6 days) sensors and solenoids after that and it just won't shift after it warms up. it makes a grinding noise until it shifts into a gear or accelerated. i finally ended up buying an 07 accord tranny with 135k the only one that read BAYA on it according to lkq which i personally asked them to check. I'm picking it up Monday(9/28/15) i understand what needs to be done for the most part, what is troubling me is what the part numbers for the gaskets and filters are exactly for the o7 AV6 tranny? also i bought the internal filter for my TL-S transmission which i was wondering if i could use that same one for the AV6 tranny? sorry for writing my life story but maybe i could get some input from the OG's on here
i was able to find the part number to a few things i needed, the gasket that is mention as #25 was 25812-P7W-A01 GASKET, PASSAGE BODY (ATF) 2003 TL, its the same number if you look for an AV6(Honda Automotive Parts) or a TL-S (Acura Parts)
so my tranny i got came with a broken clip for the A and B pressure switch so i cant plug my harness into it. is it ok to use the one off the TL or should i go and buy one for the AV6? and i seem to cant find the 3rd and 4th pressure switch to buy?
so my tranny i got came with a broken clip for the A and B pressure switch so i cant plug my harness into it. is it ok to use the one off the TL or should i go and buy one for the AV6? and i seem to cant find the 3rd and 4th pressure switch to buy?
Yeah, there shouldn't be a problem switching any of the sensors. For a fact, even the transmission range switch can be used from the TL tranny. I thought the TL range switch was no good so I used the AV6 range switch. I had to cut the connector off the TL and hooked up the wires on the AV6 range switch. Just test the A and B pressure switch first with 12v to hear a click and that the impedance is within specs.
Also, the speed sensor connector was cracked on the AV6, I swapped it with the TL sensor. They look a little different but works fine too.
yes i swapped over the transmission range switch and the other harness on the tranny. ok i mean the car drives fine just that part from dead stop. but ill check ohms on it tomorrow. yes my speed sensor was also crack so i also swapped that over to
06-16-2015, 09:57 AM
update
