ebelp

To my knowledge, there's no DIY for this camber kit, so I thought I'd post some DIY pictures.

Step 1 - remove shock/spring assembly.

Step 2 - remove cotter pin and castle nut (17mm) from underside of knuckle (parts #13 & #19):


Step 3 - use a "pickle fork", aka "ball joint fork" to separate the UCA's from the knuckle. This took me a little while, so be patient. Use PB Blaster and bang on the knuckle with a hammer to loosen things up. Eventually it'll break loose:





Step 4 - Remove the 10mm bolt from the speed sensor bracket that's attached to the underside of the UCA (part #18).

Step 5 - Once the ball joint comes loose and the speed sensor bracket is unhooked, remove the two 14mm bolts at the end of each arm. They come out pretty easily. (parts #12 in this pic):


You'll want to make sure your camber adjustment bolts are tightened before you install the new UCA's. According to Skunk2, these 4 allen bolts require 12ft/lbs of torque each. I used a 3/16" hex bit on my 3/8" drive torque wrench:



Installation of the new Skunk2 UCA's is the reverse of the removal...pretty easy. Here are additional pictures:



Toad:








Beautiful:

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

SICK DIY !!!

very well done John !!!

k1x

iTrader: (1)

very nice sir..i am just waiting for mines!!! i am wondering if u can rent the "pickle fork" aka ball joint remover at like a auto zone or o'reillys or something?

ebelp

^Thanks! Yes, you can rent that fork tool, but it's only $10 so I just bought one.

k1x

iTrader: (1)

^oh is it really? maybe il pick one up at like a harbor freight or something..thanks man

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Nice DIY!!!

post your before and after results when you get your alignment. Lets see where you max out at on camber.

Seems like with the right tools your install went smoothly.

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up...I might need one of these in the near future....

ebelp

No problem!

Yeah, I'm going to get an alignment next week....we'll see how it turns out. Thanks for your help!

06cmv6

Very nice....doesn't look to complicated

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Nice job John! Looks awesome!

SSM4DR

iTrader: (1)

Nice install and thank you for sharing . Does it slap less then the oem ones when driving through dips, bumps, ect?

ebelp

^Unfortunately I can't answer that because I raised my car 1/4" shortly before I installed the Skunk2 kit, so it stopped clunking before I even installed everything. Not to worry, once I get my 215's on the front I plan on lowering it again to see if the rubbing/clunking will be gone.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Nice DIY. Glad to see you got everything installed.

ebelp

Thanks, couldn't have done it without you haha!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Josh FTW

akash4u

iTrader: (3)

Do you have a part number for this fork tool or is it pretty generic? I want to try this in a few weeks and would like to make sure I have all the right tools

ebelp

No, I don't know the part number. If you go to Autozone and tell them you want "the fork thingie that separates ball joints...", they'll know what you mean.

timsta

iTrader: (1)

anyone have issues getting the castle nut off (17 mm)? i got the nut to loosen but it seems like it's stripped

White Widow

just got mines today. Im hoping i can get enough neg camber i need without doing the hellaflush mod to them. we shall see..

White Widow

Does the shock have to come out? to swap out the arms or it makes the job easier?

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Maybe tighten the castle nut back up and cut the threads on the upper ball joint as close as you can to the castle nut, then try to remove the nut again (yes this will ruin the ball joint, but it could be replaced if you ever needed to go back to stock)


No, the shock doesnt have to come out to remove the upper control arms. It would make the job easier if you removed the shock, but you can work around it with the right tools.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Awesome!!!

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Great DIY, John, I could probably do this

timsta

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=05_NBP_TL;14306267]Maybe tighten the castle nut back up and cut the threads on the upper ball joint as close as you can to the castle nut, then try to remove the nut again (yes this will ruin the ball joint, but it could be replaced if you ever needed to go back to stock)

awesome thanks. i will try that. I am also thinking about the nut splitter from autozone so there won't be any cutting involved.

ebelp

How much negative camber are you looking for? If it's aggressive, you should consider the hellaflush mod.

Vietnastee

iTrader: (8)

How much negative camber were you guys able to achieve at the max negative camber setting (without the max negative camber mod)?

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

I emailed a vendor about this as I seen a couple of sites were showing different info.

This kit was designed for the TSX, but it does fit the TL and it is the same exact part number. On skunk2's site they show this kit listed for the TSX and claim that it can do +/-3 degrees.

According to testing that a customer did for Heeltoe, they were only able to achieve -1.2 degrees of camber with this kit on their TL without having the hellaflush mod.

I should add that the -1.2 will be in addition to the natural camber that you get when lowering your car.

The thing that I am wondering is, are the TSX's getting the true +/-3 the kit claims to give and if so, why is the TL not getting the same result?

Vietnastee

iTrader: (8)

Thank you, Machine. I remember back in the day rodneyc77 had like the first set and was able to get only -2.3 or so so you're correct.

Most lowered TLs I see are getting about -1.1 to -1.6 natural camber depending on how low they are.

I'm debating if I should do the hellaflush modification first before I install mine.

ebelp

Just to clarify further, the -1.2 figure is IN ADDITION to the natural camber you're getting from lowering your car (like Chip said), so if your lowered TL is currently at -1.5 degrees, if you add the Skunk2 kit and max it out, you'll be at -2.7 degrees.

A non-hellaflush Skunk2 kit is most useful for achieving oem-spec camber settings, if that's your main goal. If your goal is to have aggressive camber to make your wheel/tire setup fit without rubbing, you should probably have the Skunk2 kit with the hellaflush mod done to it.

4drviper

I wanted to add, if you happen to strip the allen head of the 4 bolts that hold the ball joint, they're easy to find at local hardware store

M6x1.00 pitch.
20mm is too short. 25 is tad bit too long. I'm using 3 washers and 25mm

pnoyrice

Great DIY! I'll definitely do this with the hellaflush mod. Just waiting for Marcus to response regarding the shipping fees to Canada.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

We have these in stock and can ship to Canada for you. Shoot me a PM if you want a quote; include your vehicle info, postal code and what shipping method you want.

leasureryan

is it best to just adjust them all the way in to start with? not looking for hellaflush, just doing the install right new and cant get in to the alignment shop till wed. all the way in or all the way out or middle or what?

cazio

iTrader: (3)

nice DIY!!! def gonna use this once I find wheels and get sick of my -1.7 front camber lol

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

What is the hellaflush mod??? I just ordered my Skunk2 upper control arm because my ingalls ball joint couldn't give me enough - camber. I hope this can goto -3 as described by the product manufactor.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Well actually if i us my Ingalls adjustable ball joint in conjuntion with this skunk2 adjustable upper control arm, wouldnt the combination give me that much more of a camber range to use?

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

So everyone is buying this front camber kit not to fix their camber but to make their camber worse than it already is ? Lol ok so what if I want to fix my camber with the standard Tein SS drop ?

Slpr04UA6

^not everyone. Lol! I bought this kit to get my camber back within stock specs. The front was only out slightly, but I wanted it corrected. I do not have the hella flush (whatever) modification, just stock Skunk2 kit.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

So to answer my own question after getting my control arm, no you can not use a added on aftermarket adjustable ball joint on that upper control arm, the upper control arm it self comes with its own, already on the unit

Chad05TL

You dont need a pickle fork to separate that. Just take off the castle nut and hit the vertical arm at the top, on the flat spot with a hammer. It will spring apart.

But question: did you reuse your oem rubber bushings or did you order the urithane bushings? I am wondering if you experienced any added noise with urithane bushings... thanks