When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Guess I had better stay away from this thread or watch what I'm posting:
51394-SEP-A11 '07-'08
51394-SEP-A01 '04-'06
51393-SEP-A01 '04-'08
At least I got one right!!!!!!!!!
My apologies
no need, we are all here to help, that's why i'm back here post correct info and let people aware of the MEVOTECH LCA does not fit the link bolt. rather not have another folks on same boat as me.
Hmmmm. Wonder why the PCI bushing fits both? Seems to be that Sockr (member here) who has type-s, hasn't had any issues, as another member NFN (who has base 6MT) hasn't had any also......weird/interesting.
Link to PCI compliance bushing review, just for others who aren't aware there is aftermarket....
I was trying to find the Moog Lower Control Arms previously mentioned and didn't see them on rockauto for 07 TL. I went and looked for 2006 TL and see them listed. Moog's database is probably accurate.
Edit: Dorman lists two different sets of part numbers between 04-06 vs 07-08. They may have a set of control arms that work for the 12mm bolt for 07-08
Hmmmm. Wonder why the PCI bushing fits both? Seems to be that Sockr (member here) who has type-s, hasn't had any issues, as another member NFN (who has base 6MT) hasn't had any also......weird/interesting.
Link to PCI compliance bushing review, just for others who aren't aware there is aftermarket....
PCI bushing will fit 04-08 LCA, the 07/08 OEM Bushing is softer compared to 04-06. you'll notice the part numbers of bushing are different compared 04-06 vs 07/08.
The Mevotech site indicates that all '04-'08 TL, TL-S, have the same LCA L/R, so spoke with tech support and bottom line as we know now, the '04-'06 same and '07-'08 Base, TL-S, A/T & 6M/T different because of the larger hole needed for the stabilizer end link . They verified the Rock Auto site and said they would get with their catalog guys and make correction, but we all know how that works, probably never.
Changing/using an '04-'06 end link on a '07-'08 wouldn't work as the stabilizer bar on the '07-'08 requires larger bolt.
Guess no inexpensive LCA for the '07-'08 without opening up the end link hole.
I put the Mevotech LCAs on a couple months ago, ran into the same problem with the stabilizer link hole being too small. Just drilled it out, put a lock washer on for good measure, gtg. I initially tried to get a shop around me to push out the old bushings from the LCA after failing with my 6 ton hydraulic press, but no shop would do it, wound up just getting the aftermarket LCA instead. Can't say I'm disappointed with them yet. Haven't had any problems with drilling out those stabilizer link holes. still nice and tight.
I put the Mevotech LCAs on a couple months ago, ran into the same problem with the stabilizer link hole being too small. Just drilled it out, put a lock washer on for good measure, gtg. I initially tried to get a shop around me to push out the old bushings from the LCA after failing with my 6 ton hydraulic press, but no shop would do it, wound up just getting the aftermarket LCA instead. Can't say I'm disappointed with them yet. Haven't had any problems with drilling out those stabilizer link holes. still nice and tight.
Pushing out the bushings requires a bigger press...but its not the best way to go about it.
Push the rubber out with the press (just tear it out).
OK updating my thread, So I bought the OEM bushings and the special Honda bushing pressing tool, followed a video on you-tube, where you can use this tool and remove the bushing without dropping or removing the LCA fully.....remove the axle nut, and remove the 2 bolts that connect the LCA to the frame, you don't even have to touch the end links....was a breeze just needed a lot of muscle power to initiate the first couple of turns on the press to get the push started, do apply some wb40 on the old bushing, and yea apply loads of grease on the press tool bolt.....which I did total of 4 times....press out apply, press in apply and then repeat for the other side, do this or else you will destroy that bolt....
Returned the MOOG LCA to rock auto and now I am all OEM....
Just as an update. Looks like Mevotech finally corrected their parts compatibility and removed the 07-08 LCA information. Now it correctly lists them as being compatible with only 2004-2006.
Hopefully Mevotech gets around to making a compatible LCA for 2007 to 2008. Would be nice to have that option when i need compliance bushings done.
OK updating my thread, So I bought the OEM bushings and the special Honda bushing pressing tool, followed a video on you-tube, where you can use this tool and remove the bushing without dropping or removing the LCA fully.....remove the axle nut, and remove the 2 bolts that connect the LCA to the frame, you don't even have to touch the end links....was a breeze just needed a lot of muscle power to initiate the first couple of turns on the press to get the push started, do apply some wb40 on the old bushing, and yea apply loads of grease on the press tool bolt.....which I did total of 4 times....press out apply, press in apply and then repeat for the other side, do this or else you will destroy that bolt....
Returned the MOOG LCA to rock auto and now I am all OEM....
I'm having an issue with the ball joint sleeve. I purchased Dorman lower control arms which do not have the ball joint sleeve and have a much smaller hole for the ball joint. My lower ball joints are fine, so I was planning on reusing them, but the sleeves are stuck on them. Any way to pull the sleeve off of the lower ball joint?
OEMs usually last well over 100K. Nothing lasts forever.
I doubt you'll get 50K miles out of a typical aftermarket "OE replacement" part.
My original LCA compliance bushings were already cracked after only 11K miles! Dealer replaced both arms under warranty. I've since replaced them with Mevotech bushings from rockauto, so far, so good..
.
.
My original LCA compliance bushings were already cracked after only 11K miles! Dealer replaced both arms under warranty. I've since replaced them with Mevotech bushings from rockauto, so far, so good..
.
.
If you had your mevotech inspected by the same person/dealer, they'd probably tell you to replace them too.
Lots of places want you to replace them at the first sign of wear.
I just bought some spherical bearings. Those should last a very long time with no signs of degradation.
If you had your Mevotech inspected by the same person/dealer, they'd probably tell you to replace them too.
My LCA compliance bushings are only a few months old. It was our star master mechanic in North Jersey, Paul, who recommended Mevotech control arms in the 1st place.
If you use a pickle fork type, you'll need a new boot too.
I didn't want to use a pickle fork because I wanted to keep the ball joint boots intact. I was able to find a ball joint separator at Harbor Freight that worked for me. It looks like a clamp with a fork as the top piece to grab on to that sleeve, a lower piece that pushes on the ball joint, and a bolt that compresses the two. The only issue I ran into was when I screwed the castle nuts on backwards to the first few threads of the ball joint to provide more surface area for the tool, the tool ended up angling the nut on one, and bending the ball joint on the other. It was a huge pain trying to thread the castle nuts onto the ball joints with the first few threads sheared or flattened, but I was eventually able to get them back on.
Yes...a lot of Honda lower ball joints are too big for those separators. If the separator was able to slide further on...it would work. It works great on upper joints.
Watch out for anything you're separating that isn't fastened though...it will go FLYING at your face/genitals.
I found that using the seperator on its widest opening works better...only because it allows the arm to extend out a bit. You're still dangerously angled.
A gear puller or bigger ball joint seperator will work.
Guess I had better stay away from this thread or watch what I'm posting:
51394-SEP-A11 '07-'08
51394-SEP-A01 '04-'06
51393-SEP-A01 '04-'08
At least I got one right!!!!!!!!!
My apologies
I’ve read through a few threads on the compliance bushings and I have seen some people recommend the softer 07-08 (A11) bushing for the 05 base. Are there any problems with this? Is there some modification required to run these? Also, there is a model that covers all 4 years- the 51393. What’s the deal with that one?
I'm having an issue with the ball joint sleeve. I purchased Dorman lower control arms which do not have the ball joint sleeve and have a much smaller hole for the ball joint. My lower ball joints are fine, so I was planning on reusing them, but the sleeves are stuck on them. Any way to pull the sleeve off of the lower ball joint?
I had exact same problem !!!
Ordered from amazon and ebay, both are the same..
ended up just replacing bushings with new OEM, but those didnt last even 4 months, I am stuck, dont know which brand to use
You can see just how far the bushing was deflecting (Look for the clean/dark rubber) Another view of the Mevotech Acura OEM on left, Mevotech on right This is what dynamic toe wear looks like. Happens during acceleration when the compliance bushings over deflect.
I know that there are some recommendations here about the Mevotech LCA's, here's my .02. Stay away from them. I installed a set of them about 6 months ago and they ruined my tires. How you might ask? The compliance bushings they are using are extremely soft. Too soft to control the dynamic toe that occurs during accel. Side by side with a set of OEM bushings I can move the Mevotec's by hand by just grabbing the metal bushing, the OEM Acura bushing I can't budge.
And no, its not alignment. The car was aligned right after the install and was fine.
There were other indications that the bushings are too soft as well. If you stand on it the car tends to pull to one side or the other depending on how the suspension is loaded, due to those bushings deflecting. Of course this is amplified by the 255 tires I have. It may not be as noticeable at the factory size, hard to say.
YMMV, but IMO the Mevotech's are just entirely too soft. I did keep the arms installed though as both of the sleeves have pulled out of my OEM arms and I didn't really want to deal with that.
So i recently replaced my lower control arms myself. The bushing were torn & i was unsure of the flap (compliance bushing) because it didn’t come on the new one. So i thought it was useless & didn’t put it back on, am i introuble??
Oem compliance Bushings have a rubber flap fitted over the inner sleeve and tucked into one of the bushing crevices.
Not really sure of the intended function, maybe to keep small rocks/debris out? You will probably be okay without it.
Well...no. If it was OK without it, the car would come from the factory without it.
Its for additional deflection resistance.
Separately, my strong opinion (based on facts) is that there are no acceptable "OE replacement" bushings from aftermarket companies. None of them will work properly, and none of them will last more than maybe 10K miles. Whether or not you perceive a problem is a different story. But...Mevotech, Moog, BA, etc are all of much lower quality as compared to the factory supplied parts.
Well...no. If it was OK without it, the car would come from the factory without it.
Its for additional deflection resistance.
Separately, my strong opinion (based on facts) is that there are no acceptable "OE replacement" bushings from aftermarket companies. None of them will work properly, and none of them will last more than maybe 10K miles. Whether or not you perceive a problem is a different story. But...Mevotech, Moog, BA, etc are all of much lower quality as compared to the factory supplied parts.
Well at least we know what the flap is for now!!
But the logic that the car wouldn't have come with it if it was ok without it is flawed. Your car comes with a multitude of things that it is ok without.
And as far as Bushings go, you are absolutely correct. OEM Honda quality far exceeds any aftermarket replacement without a doubt.
The only non OEM compliance bushing worth considering is the PCI spherical.... And I wouldn't recommend those for every TL owner.
But the logic that the car wouldn't have come with it if it was ok without it is flawed. Your car comes with a multitude of things that it is ok without.
Like what, though?
Seatbelts, maybe? I'm still alive.
In seriousness, I can tell you with confidence that there is virtually nothing on a car that's not necessary.
If you were able to experience the automotive design/development process, it would be plainly visible that every single tiny peice has an absolute necessity.
"Does this absolutely have to be here" is a question that is asked of every part on the car. Because every little widget needs to be developed, tested, approved, tested again against the entire system, then re-approved painfully.
Obviously, creature comforts and features exist because of consumer demand.
But people that leave out hardware and splash shields and things that are obviously only put there to serve a functional purpose....y'all are crazy.
You wouldn't drive around on 3 lug nuts because you think 5 is overkill, would you?
Like what, though?
Seatbelts, maybe? I'm still alive.
In seriousness, I can tell you with confidence that there is virtually nothing on a car that's not necessary.
If you were able to experience the automotive design/development process, it would be plainly visible that every single tiny peice has an absolute necessity.
"Does this absolutely have to be here" is a question that is asked of every part on the car. Because every little widget needs to be developed, tested, approved, tested again against the entire system, then re-approved painfully.
Obviously, creature comforts and features exist because of consumer demand.
But people that leave out hardware and splash shields and things that are obviously only put there to serve a functional purpose....y'all are crazy.
You wouldn't drive around on 3 lug nuts because you think 5 is overkill, would you?
5 lugs and seatbelts are safety issues obviously.
I was more thinking of things like the plastic cover over the the intake manifold, mud flaps, hell even the passenger side view mirror. On my 1988 civic hatch that mirror was a dealer option... Base model didn't come with one. Seat heaters and other comfort options obviously.
I see where you're coming from but that statement was too broad. Certainly there is a difference between will you be ok without something and does that something serve a purpose
I was more thinking of things like the plastic cover over the the intake manifold, mud flaps, hell even the passenger side view mirror. On my 1988 civic hatch that mirror was a dealer option... Base model didn't come with one. Seat heaters and other comfort options obviously.
I see where you're coming from but that statement was too broad. Certainly there is a difference between will you be ok without something and does that something serve a purpose
I don't mean to get too far off topic here.
But your 1988 civic didn't have a side mirror because it was determined by an engineering team, that it wasn't required. 88 civics had paper thin windshield headers. Old cars were unsafe and you sat way up for visibiltiy improvement. And 88 civics had about 50 windows.
Design has changed since then. New cars have airbags in the A/B pillar, right? You sit way lower in the car bexaise its modern (safety). Visibility is hurt by all that. Your TL is also about 800ft longer and wider than your 1988 civic. So...yeah, the side mirror is a necessity based on current design and factors.
The same can be said for the plastic engine shields. Yes, there's an aesthetic factor...but it could also be there to aid a huge amount of other things you didn't think of. Engines, electronics, and systems are more complex than in 1988. So maybe that shield is designed to work with that car's design. Maybe the air moving past the front dam causes debris to gather...and the shield protects that. Maybe its there for crash safety. Maybe for heat management. Maybe for operator safety. You need to lean over the engine to top of fluids or maybe topping off the winshield washer reservoir makes you rest your arm on something sharp if the shield isn't there...etc etc etc etc
The designers know all this stuff. The guy who looks at the part and goes "aint gon need that", as he tosses it casually into a dumpster - doesn't know all that.
The tooling for that plastic shield cost in the 6 figures easily. The testing and development probably cost double that. Why would a manufacturer go thru all that for an unnecessary part?
My statement really isn't that broad. There's just too much complex design intent in modern cars for a casual user to determine what's useful. Its all useful...or it wouldn't be there.
But your 1988 civic didn't have a side mirror because it was determined by an engineering team, that it wasn't required. 88 civics had paper thin windshield headers. Old cars were unsafe and you sat way up for visibiltiy improvement. And 88 civics had about 50 windows.
Design has changed since then. New cars have airbags in the A/B pillar, right? You sit way lower in the car bexaise its modern (safety). Visibility is hurt by all that. Your TL is also about 800ft longer and wider than your 1988 civic. So...yeah, the side mirror is a necessity based on current design and factors.
The same can be said for the plastic engine shields. Yes, there's an aesthetic factor...but it could also be there to aid a huge amount of other things you didn't think of. Engines, electronics, and systems are more complex than in 1988. So maybe that shield is designed to work with that car's design. Maybe the air moving past the front dam causes debris to gather...and the shield protects that. Maybe its there for crash safety. Maybe for heat management. Maybe for operator safety. You need to lean over the engine to top of fluids or maybe topping off the winshield washer reservoir makes you rest your arm on something sharp if the shield isn't there...etc etc etc etc
The designers know all this stuff. The guy who looks at the part and goes "aint gon need that", as he tosses it casually into a dumpster - doesn't know all that.
The tooling for that plastic shield cost in the 6 figures easily. The testing and development probably cost double that. Why would a manufacturer go thru all that for an unnecessary part?
My statement really isn't that broad. There's just too much complex design intent in modern cars for a casual user to determine what's useful. Its all useful...or it wouldn't be there.
Again. We're talking about whether or not your car will be ok without it. NOT whether or not the part has a purpose.
Your car WILL be OK without the plastic cover over the intake manifold. (Amongst other things)
I'm done here. You're not gonna budge from your opinion. I'm not gonna budge from my opinion. That's all they are. OPINIONS.
Good day, sir. 🧐
Last edited by SilentWrath; 04-15-2020 at 05:10 PM.
Again. We're talking about whether or not your car will be ok without it. NOT whether or not the part has a purpose.
Your car WILL be OK without the plastic cover over the intake manifold. (Amongst other things)
I'm done here. You're not gonna budge from your opinion. I'm not gonna budge from my opinion. That's all they are. OPINIONS.
Good day, sir. 🧐
Lol...the old "agree to disagree", eh?
I'm not really arguing MY opinion. If I didn't use seatbelts, they'd be useless in MY opinion.
What I'm saying is that in the opinion of whomever designed the car, every part has an important function. If it didn't Acura would just save the money and hassle by not using it.
And you don't know whether the car will work as intended or "be ok" without the plastic cover.
Remember that one time you thought that the flap on the LCA bushing was useless and I showed in 1 sentence that it was there for an engineered purpose?
Or the time you said that side mirrors were an example of a vestigial part?
Even after all that...you're chosing to end the conversation by "sticking to your opinion". lol...
07-24-2017, 02:14 PM
