Anti-Sway Bars
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Cruisin'
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Anti-Sway Bars
Hey guys,
So, I lack the knowledge about the Acura TL. So, hoping for some help. I saw this thread somewhere but, can’t find it now. But, when I go to upgrade the sway bars, does it matter the size, just as long as they are adjustable? Or, do I need a specific size? I’m looking to purchase these but, aren’t sure about which size to purchase.
So, I lack the knowledge about the Acura TL. So, hoping for some help. I saw this thread somewhere but, can’t find it now. But, when I go to upgrade the sway bars, does it matter the size, just as long as they are adjustable? Or, do I need a specific size? I’m looking to purchase these but, aren’t sure about which size to purchase.
#3
Bar spring rates really depend on moment of inertia for each bar - determined by wall thickness and overall diameter.
The adjustable eyes on the bar don't change that base rate...they just add or subtract leverage on the bar.
The actual effect of the bar depends on your tyres, suspension spring/shock stiffness, alignment, etc etc.
So its hard to answer your question.
BUT...what do you want to do? Increase oversteer? Understeer? Just increase steering response?
Either way, buy a bar from a company you trust to engineer the correct base rate and provide a usable amount of adjustment.
H&R generally is a good way to go for a street driven car.
You'll need to play around with the adjusters to get the car to do what you want. Just understand what each setting does so you can adjust advantageously.
The adjustable eyes on the bar don't change that base rate...they just add or subtract leverage on the bar.
The actual effect of the bar depends on your tyres, suspension spring/shock stiffness, alignment, etc etc.
So its hard to answer your question.
BUT...what do you want to do? Increase oversteer? Understeer? Just increase steering response?
Either way, buy a bar from a company you trust to engineer the correct base rate and provide a usable amount of adjustment.
H&R generally is a good way to go for a street driven car.
You'll need to play around with the adjusters to get the car to do what you want. Just understand what each setting does so you can adjust advantageously.
#4
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#5
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Bar spring rates really depend on moment of inertia for each bar - determined by wall thickness and overall diameter.
The adjustable eyes on the bar don't change that base rate...they just add or subtract leverage on the bar.
The actual effect of the bar depends on your tyres, suspension spring/shock stiffness, alignment, etc etc.
So its hard to answer your question.
BUT...what do you want to do? Increase oversteer? Understeer? Just increase steering response?
Either way, buy a bar from a company you trust to engineer the correct base rate and provide a usable amount of adjustment.
H&R generally is a good way to go for a street driven car.
You'll need to play around with the adjusters to get the car to do what you want. Just understand what each setting does so you can adjust advantageously.
The adjustable eyes on the bar don't change that base rate...they just add or subtract leverage on the bar.
The actual effect of the bar depends on your tyres, suspension spring/shock stiffness, alignment, etc etc.
So its hard to answer your question.
BUT...what do you want to do? Increase oversteer? Understeer? Just increase steering response?
Either way, buy a bar from a company you trust to engineer the correct base rate and provide a usable amount of adjustment.
H&R generally is a good way to go for a street driven car.
You'll need to play around with the adjusters to get the car to do what you want. Just understand what each setting does so you can adjust advantageously.
So far, I’ve ordered and waiting on my set of BC Racing Coils & Conti DWS tires. I’ve noticed that the body sways a lot when I’m on the highway and hit a bump or something. As I mentioned, I don’t know anything about this stuff. I just know, that I’d like to get a stiffer than factory setup and get rid of the body sway. I’ll try to give as much info as possible, so you guys are better able to help me out.
#7
Drifting
So far, I’ve ordered and waiting on my set of BC Racing Coils & Conti DWS tires. I’ve noticed that the body sways a lot when I’m on the highway and hit a bump or something. As I mentioned, I don’t know anything about this stuff. I just know, that I’d like to get a stiffer than factory setup and get rid of the body sway.
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#8
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No, most do not have manual trans TLs. And yes, it can make a difference in what size bars you would want for a specific use case.
Body sway on the highway when you hit a bump are unlikely to be managed much by changing out the factory bars. If the car is swaying at highway speeds when hitting a bump, something is wrong with the suspension. Have you confirmed your alignment is good, all bushings are good, and the factory bars are connected and solid?
Body sway on the highway when you hit a bump are unlikely to be managed much by changing out the factory bars. If the car is swaying at highway speeds when hitting a bump, something is wrong with the suspension. Have you confirmed your alignment is good, all bushings are good, and the factory bars are connected and solid?
Yeah. Took it and had a technician look at it. He says all is fine and I don’t need to replace and parts. He did say “you may want to look into getting aftermarket sway bars”. So, this is why I was asking for help from you guys.
#9
The car shouldn't need aftermarket sway bars to fix a problem.
But if you're looking to improve performance, then aftermarket bars will be helpful.
H&R is a good company. Plus those are adjustable for more or less stiffness. So you can set it how you like.
If your car has a handling problem, though...its best to find it and fix it.
But if you're looking to improve performance, then aftermarket bars will be helpful.
H&R is a good company. Plus those are adjustable for more or less stiffness. So you can set it how you like.
If your car has a handling problem, though...its best to find it and fix it.
#10
Drifting
If the car didn't already have a rear sway bar, I would yes, highway handling could be improved by adding one (did this on a previous car). But this car does have a rear sway bar already and should be loose/squirrely on the highway.
Can you describe what you mean by "sway"? What tires are you running? What PSI are they at?
Can you describe what you mean by "sway"? What tires are you running? What PSI are they at?
#11
A front AND rear bar improves straight line stability. Neither will make the car squirrely in a straight line. Removing one of the bars will, however.
The question to ask is, "was this a problem when the car was new?" - as in, is the issue you're having a result of some DESIGN FLAW or anomaly that is inherent to the car?
If the answer is NO...then adding aftermarket parts is virtually never the correct solution.
The TL is a big comfy couch. It should be very stable and comfortable at highway speeds. The car's entire suspension layout focuses heavily on stability and comfort.
Unfortunately, for that same reason, when parts wear out, or if the geometry is not within design limits....the car acts a fool.
Its more effective to fix what's wrong. Aftermarket parts normally make the issue worse, or they make the issue more complex.
The question to ask is, "was this a problem when the car was new?" - as in, is the issue you're having a result of some DESIGN FLAW or anomaly that is inherent to the car?
If the answer is NO...then adding aftermarket parts is virtually never the correct solution.
The TL is a big comfy couch. It should be very stable and comfortable at highway speeds. The car's entire suspension layout focuses heavily on stability and comfort.
Unfortunately, for that same reason, when parts wear out, or if the geometry is not within design limits....the car acts a fool.
Its more effective to fix what's wrong. Aftermarket parts normally make the issue worse, or they make the issue more complex.
Last edited by BROlando; 08-03-2018 at 10:07 AM.
#12
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If the car didn't already have a rear sway bar, I would yes, highway handling could be improved by adding one (did this on a previous car). But this car does have a rear sway bar already and should be loose/squirrely on the highway.
Can you describe what you mean by "sway"? What tires are you running? What PSI are they at?
Can you describe what you mean by "sway"? What tires are you running? What PSI are they at?
Ok. So, by factory standards, this car should be loose/squirrely?
Well, when I’m on the highway and I do hit like a pothole hole or a small hump in the lane (going into a slight left/right curve), it feels like the back end is trying to get loose. Like, you could feel the back end just lightly jerk to one side, depending on which way I’m going in that curve....hope that describes it a bit.
As for the tires, I still have the 235/45R 17 and running on Yokohama YK580, which still has over 75% tread left. I haven’t changed the tires since I bought this car a year ago. The PSI I try to keep at recommended specs...front: 33psi/rear: 32psi....as of today front: 37/rear: 30.
#13
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A front AND rear bar improves straight line stability. Neither will make the car squirrely in a straight line. Removing one of the bars will, however.
The question to ask is, "was this a problem when the car was new?" - as in, is the issue you're having a result of some DESIGN FLAW or anomaly that is inherent to the car?
If the answer is NO...then adding aftermarket parts is virtually never the correct solution.
The TL is a big comfy couch. It should be very stable and comfortable at highway speeds. The car's entire suspension layout focuses heavily on stability and comfort.
Unfortunately, for that same reason, when parts wear out, or if the geometry is not within design limits....the car acts a fool.
Its more effective to fix what's wrong. Aftermarket parts normally make the issue worse, or they make the issue more complex.
The question to ask is, "was this a problem when the car was new?" - as in, is the issue you're having a result of some DESIGN FLAW or anomaly that is inherent to the car?
If the answer is NO...then adding aftermarket parts is virtually never the correct solution.
The TL is a big comfy couch. It should be very stable and comfortable at highway speeds. The car's entire suspension layout focuses heavily on stability and comfort.
Unfortunately, for that same reason, when parts wear out, or if the geometry is not within design limits....the car acts a fool.
Its more effective to fix what's wrong. Aftermarket parts normally make the issue worse, or they make the issue more complex.
I keep hearing that the TL is like a comfy couch and I keep hearing you have to pay to play as well. Which is fine but, I don’t want a money pit either. The handling in a straight line is fantastic. It’s just when I hit a pothole or hump in the road while in a curve on the highway. Now, it wasn’t like this when I first purchased it so, like you say, something is worn and I just need to figure out which part(s). Could it be other suspension part(s) such as, the control arms or strut mounts?
#15
Its an Acura. Its meant to be a car that you DON'T have to pay to play with....as long as you leave it stock. Your car is basically a slightly obese Accord. There's nothing in the world more solid and straightforward than an Accord. **as long as you leave it stock**
Your problem could stem from worn shocks/springs, worn bushings, or a bad alignment. Or bad chassis hardware (ball joints, etc). Worn components is the first thing to check for. Followed by an alignment.
Your tyres could also play a role.
You said you ordered coilovers? The BC is a lot more aggressive than the stock shocks and springs. So if you do have a bad bushing, you'll REALLY know it. You might enter the wormhole of replacing worn parts. And at the end, the car will probably drive better.
Your problem could stem from worn shocks/springs, worn bushings, or a bad alignment. Or bad chassis hardware (ball joints, etc). Worn components is the first thing to check for. Followed by an alignment.
Your tyres could also play a role.
You said you ordered coilovers? The BC is a lot more aggressive than the stock shocks and springs. So if you do have a bad bushing, you'll REALLY know it. You might enter the wormhole of replacing worn parts. And at the end, the car will probably drive better.
#16
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#17
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Its an Acura. Its meant to be a car that you DON'T have to pay to play with....as long as you leave it stock. Your car is basically a slightly obese Accord. There's nothing in the world more solid and straightforward than an Accord. **as long as you leave it stock**
Your problem could stem from worn shocks/springs, worn bushings, or a bad alignment. Or bad chassis hardware (ball joints, etc). Worn components is the first thing to check for. Followed by an alignment.
Your tyres could also play a role.
You said you ordered coilovers? The BC is a lot more aggressive than the stock shocks and springs. So if you do have a bad bushing, you'll REALLY know it. You might enter the wormhole of replacing worn parts. And at the end, the car will probably drive better.
Your problem could stem from worn shocks/springs, worn bushings, or a bad alignment. Or bad chassis hardware (ball joints, etc). Worn components is the first thing to check for. Followed by an alignment.
Your tyres could also play a role.
You said you ordered coilovers? The BC is a lot more aggressive than the stock shocks and springs. So if you do have a bad bushing, you'll REALLY know it. You might enter the wormhole of replacing worn parts. And at the end, the car will probably drive better.
Yeah. Well, hopefully once I get the coilovers and new tires installed, I’m able to start narrowing down which parts need replacement.
Now, as far as the sway bars go, which sizes would I purchase for the front and back?
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I'd recommend either the Front and Rear bars from the 2004-2006 6MT models or the bars from the 2007-2008 Type-S models. Don't get too hung up on size as a smaller diameter bar can easily be stiffer than a larger diameter one. What counts is the overall product, and the bars on the two aforementioned cars are both pretty darn good. Personally I'd opt for the Type-S bars.
#19
Team Owner
The mechanic you went to kind of sounds like a tool. Take your car somewhere else and get a second opinion from somewhere completely different, as opposed to blindly throwing money on suspect parts.
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Also: Progress RSB FTMFW
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I'd recommend either the Front and Rear bars from the 2004-2006 6MT models or the bars from the 2007-2008 Type-S models. Don't get too hung up on size as a smaller diameter bar can easily be stiffer than a larger diameter one. What counts is the overall product, and the bars on the two aforementioned cars are both pretty darn good. Personally I'd opt for the Type-S bars.
The only reason I was asking about which size bars were because, I was on the xlr8performance site and all of the bars are by size. So, I didn’t know what size I had to purchase.
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If you're going aftermarket, then we really cannot tell you what to buy as we really cannot know your ultimate needs/wants/desires. Basically you're going to have to pick one and hope it ends up feeling the way you want it to feel.
#23
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go with 22mm, 24 can crack the rear subframe mounts. If you get the adjustable one, put it on 22mm instead of the 24mm setting. The bar ties the suspension together so in curves the body tries to stay more flat. Sounds like you have an issue with bad Toe causing instability at high speeds. Once you get the tires, suspension installed you may need a camber kit to get back into spec.
#24
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So, I took my car to this mechanic today and he says, the only thing he sees I need to replace are both front upper control arms and my strut mounts.
So.....[img]blob:https://acurazine.com/931a11c3-eb7b-45b5-be57-a20e04528d1f[/img]
#26
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I'd ask the mechanic to show you the play in the upper control arms. It should be very easy for him to do... assuming there is something wrong with them.
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Yeah, he did show me how much play was in the ball joint part. Then, he showed me how much play it’s suppose to look like. Now, I’m no mechanic but, this the ball joint part was very loose on both upper control arms.
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#30
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That sounds like the upper ball joints themselves, NOT the arms. Despite the recommendations here to stick with all OEM suspension parts, the specs can change due to metal fatigue after all these years. So in the case of rear control arms, you'd be better off replacing them with adjustable ones. Don't be afraid to replace the upper arms if you have to with good aftermarket ones and save yourself some money.
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Ok. According to the mechanic, the rears are good. But, I’ll remember that if/when I have to replace the rear control arms.
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