fliplyricist1

Well, the whole process took me over an hour, but that was longer than it should have taken due to it being my first time and trying to figure a method to get the belt back on the pulleys at the end. Hope someone can find use in this


I'm going to post up the scans directly from the Service Manual at the end of the write-up, but will explain a few of the steps better in lamens terms.


Ok, first off...tools needed:

1) Both a socket set and open ended wrench set with sizes 6mm - 14mm
2) Alternator tension release tool (highly recommended, though you can do this with a standard 14mm open ended wrench, but you'll probably bust knuckles)
4) Mallet or hammer and a long screwdriver
3) WD-40 (highly recommended to make loosening those decade-old bolts easier)
4) plenty of rags and some shop hand cleaner cream


Ok first step:

You'll want to disconnect the negative terminal to your battery. This is very important as the alternator could short while exposed to metal wrenches/etc. **** Make sure you have your radio code handy for those with the stock stereo****


Next Step:

You'll want to remove the large black plastic shroud covering the front of your engine compartment (right above the radiator). This can easily be removed by using a quarter or large flathead screwdriver and loosening the plastic screws, then just pull up.


Once removed, remove the two bolts pictured below (I believe they are 10mm bolts, can't remember). Alternatively, you can remove them with a phillips screwdriver. Remove the metal bar that they hold and put these away.




The next portion will involve removing the passenger side radiator fan. This is where your open ended wrenches are invaluable. If you reach your hand way down below the passenger radiator fan, you'll feel that there is a 10mm bolt down in the dead center right below it. Although this bolt also has a phillips head, there's no way you can fit a screwdriver down there. So take your open ended 10mm wrench and 'feel' the wrench onto the bolt, and loosen it accordingly. You do not want to completely remove the bolt, but just loosen it enough so that the bottom of the fan can be removed.

Now simply disconnect the two wiring harness plugs running to the fan, and lift it straight up and out. It should easily come out at this point.


OK, now the fun part.


Next step is to remove the two long bolts holding the alternator to the car body. You will see the bolt heads on the left side of the alternator (facing engine compartment), one back towards the bottom and one towards the top of the alternator assembly. The top one can be removed with a 12mm socket/wrench set or open ended wrench since there is ample room. The back bolt, however, is a bit cramped for space. You may need to utilize your 14mm open ended wrench if you can't get your socket wrench in there (most likely you won't be able to because of the belt tensioner clearance).

Once these two bolts are removed, the alternator should be able to swing freely. At this point, disconnect the green plug at the top of the alternator and dislodge/ swing the alternator towards you and towards the radiator.

Once dislodged, you can carefully slip the alternator belt off the alternator wheel assembly. Slip it off carely, but try not to let it just fall down, and try to tuck it in the tensioner wheel assembly so that it doesn't fall off track with the rest of the pulleys.

Next you want to remove the grounding nut/cable from the right side of the alternator assembly. To expose the nut, remove the rubber plug at the end of the grounding cable, at which time you can remove the nut with an (I believe) 8 or 10mm socket or wrench. Now completely remove the nut and either keep it or disgard it (depending on if your replacement alternator comes with one).

Now the alternator should be completely free. The next step involves some spontaneous creativity, as you must find a way to wedge the alternator towards the radiator so that you can get enough clearance to pull it up and out of the engine compartment. It took me about 5 minutes of twisting/contorting the alternator before I finally got it free. Just be patient and observe where the obstacles are and position the alternator accordingly. This is also where the mallet/hammer may help if the alternator needs some 'umph' to clear the cramped space. Note: you will end up scratching your radiator a bit while trying to manuever the alternator...but don't worry it shouldn't affect anything. Just try to take your time, and perhaps use a very thin t-shirt in between the alternator and radiator (though I'm not sure if this will make it harder to clear).

Ok, now it's time to put in the new alternator. Orient the alternator in the same manner as the original alternator sat (wheel on the left side, plug towards top) and place it in the engine bay and back towards its mounting location. Again, this will take a bit of twisting/contorting to get it to clear, but I found putting the new alternator in was a lot easier than taking the old one out.

Now here's the secret to doing it right the first time, which is what caused me my general headache for a good 20 minutes.

Once it's in general position, place the back of the alternator in the slot and align the hole. Then place the large back 14mm bolt in and tighten with the open ended wrench. Do not tighten all the way, however, and leave about a quarter inch of thread visible.

Next, line up the top 12mm bolt on the alternator and tighten with your socket wrench or open ended wrench, BUT ONLY TIGHTEN UNTIL THE BOLT CATCHES ON THE OTHER SIDE FOR A COUPLE TURNS. This is one of the most important parts...the top must be securely anchored, but you have to give it enough leeway to get the alternator belt back on the wheel.

Ok, here's the part where the belt tension release tool comes in big handy. I hear you can buy it from Autozone or any auto parts store, but I didn't have one. I'm going to write the instructions how I did it with just a 14mm open ended wrench, though this may result in some sore knuckles. On the left of the auto-tensioner wheel is a 14mm bolt, which you must turn left (away from you and towards the back of the engine bay) in order to raise the auto tensioner wheel so that you can place the alternator belt on the alternator. If you're not going to use the belt tension release tool, I'd strongly suggest you have 2 people to do this step with the open ended wrench.

Have one person put the wrench on the auto tensioner bolt and put all their leverage to turn it left, thus raising the tensioner wheel. With the wheel raised to it's max. height, have the other person carefully slip the alternator belt onto the alternator wheel, making sure it's alligned and on securely. You'll also want to reach down there towards the bottom of the engine bay and feel and make sure the belt is still on-track with the other two pulley wheels. Again, this step may take a few passes, but you'll eventually get it. The belt tension release tool should make it cake, since the bar is long and it allows you to get good, easy leverage to raise the tensioner.


Ok, once you've double checked your belt alignment and made sure everything is secure, now fully tighten both the bottom and top alternator bolts so that the alternator is tightly secured to the body.

Now the only 2 things left to do are to put back the grounding cable on the right side of the alternator along with the nut that secures the grounding cable to the body. Make sure that nut is well tightened and secure for a good ground connection, but don't overtighten as the bolt can and will strip.

At this point, I'd re-connect the negative battery terminal and fire up the car for a quick test run, and to make sure the belt isn't slipping and there are no weird noises/squealing.

If all is a-go, now all you have to do is put the radiator fan shrould back in its original position, tightening the 3 bolts that hold it in place. Make sure to re-connect the electrical socket connections for the fan as well. Then put back the little metal bar with the 2 screws that were pictured above. And lastly, put the black plastic shroud back on the front of the engine compartment, and wallah...hopefully your car will now have the juice to keep the car running for ages (barring any potential tranny failures haha)




Enjoy

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Moved to DIY forum, great write up. I can't wait to put it to use.

CL Juice

very very good write up. Thank u so much. This very helpful.

Polaris573

Thank you. I appreciate the write up.

00RubieTL

I have to do this tomorrow.

pitbullLOVER

very good, thank you from all cl owners.

im glad i dont have anything in the way( shrouds, a/c fan, ect.), takes me bout 15 mins to get mine on and off

ed_14

Great info! I will be changing mine out soon since its going bad already. Thanks!

Bada$$VTEC

iTrader: (1)

^I used an 03 Pilot alternator when i changed out mine

on my old '98 Accord V6,130amps compared to stock 105 i think.

edit: only thing i had to do was extend the wire.

Shanespi

Going to buy the alternator right now...will put this to use tomorrow. I'll let you know how it went?