jpsnunya

I am very new to this forum and site (unfortunatley) and am looking for any info, help or guidance someone can give me. I just experienced some problems alluded to here on this site with my car. I have an 03 CL Type S with automatic and navigation and about 93,500 miles. I was driving out of town for the holiday weekend and got about halfway through a 3 1/2 hour drive to have the car act up. I was driving on the NJ Turnpike about 65 or so and all of a suddden the car sort of 'downshifted' - like a reduction and power - didn't feel or sound right and the VSA and Engine check lights were on, the VSA Yellow triangle light was on and the D5 indicator was blinking. I pulled over talked to shoulder - looked for the closest Acura dealer o n the GPS an dcalled on eabout 8 miles away. I called them to see if I could at least come in for them to look at it - since I was on a trip and a wasy from home - and they said they were too full and booked to even let me come in and look at to check the codes. With their guidance I retstarted it to clear the computer and see if I would be okay. I did that - all indicators went out except the check engine and it seemed to be okay other than that. I started driving again and got about 8-10 miles it happend again - this time all of the other things were the same with the execption that the Reverse indicator was also blinking with the D5 indicator. I pulled over and looked for the closest dealer that was now 9 miles away - Brooklyn Acura - who said com ein - nbut turned outr after waiting a couple of hours they couild not connect up to teh newtork to pull codes or do any diagnosing. Long story shorter I got my car towed to my local dealer on Saturday (lets not talk about cost) and they are having problems trying to recreate the problem. So my question is having seen a bunch ofpostings - what has been the solution and what hav emost people done or gotten from Acura if the transmission is bad? I'm not happy - last car was an Integra - I had it for 15 years - put 215,000 miles on it then gav eit to a friend for his kid to use for a couple of years at college with absolutely no problems. I expected more time and more from the car !!! Thanks for any info / inputs!!!

p.diddy

iTrader: (3)

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/another-solution-my-auto-cl-guys-758220/

jchau2012

it sucks with such a trusty brand with bad engineers. they should be fire!!!

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

Trusty alot of auto maker did bad with Auto Sport shift style when 1st can out. The BMW 7 series is twice bad then our TL/CL an cost about 7K+

RLR401

So what was the problem?

drn33

The link above that p.diddy posted is where I got my solution. I knew the '01 CL-S I just bought had a bad trans. It actually drives ok until the trans warms up. Then, the slipping starts and the check engine light comes on. I'm doing an '06 Odyssey trans swap. Good luck with yours.

mast00

hi had same problem with same diagnoses, after code scan at advanceauto get code P0715 Turbine/input speed sensor malfunction. the transmission has two of this sensors ( http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=938199 ), one Input speed sensor (located front side of tranny near wheel , or under battery, remove battery and the metal part under it that holds battery n will see it) the other is Output speed sensor (located on top of tranny near fluid filler hole) they are both same part with same sizes. They function is to send signals to ECM about speed of engine and speed of wheels, so ECM shifts tranny after analyzing these signals.
I my case buy used sensor of Honda CR-V 2004 for 15$ from ebay, and replaced it, since had no such problems.
Other models (with engine over 2.4l) that has same sensor:
ACURACL(2001 - 2003)(2001 - 2002)ACURARSX(2002 - 2003)ACURATL(2000 - 2003)HONDACIVIC(2001 - 2011)HONDACR-V(2002 - 2005)HONDAINSIGHT(2001 - 2006)HONDAODYSSEY(2002 - 2003)HONDAPILOT(2003 - 2005)

YeuEmMaiMai

^ Civic is over 2.4L?

Mishelle

I had the D5 show up on my CL type S and the dealer said that the gear was turning blue due to over heating. They replaced my transmission free it was still under warranty. This as on a 2002.

THAYES77

Forgive me as I am brand new to this forum and wasn't sure how to post a new thread.
the tranny issue in the 01 CL has been beat to death i know.
Here is what happened. Took the car on Saturday to get brakes all around... ran fine nothing ever slipped leaked at all in this car and had for 5 years. Car has 167 on it. So I go in store come out car goes in reverse, will go into drive but won't move just RMS all the way.
Had towed pulled the cod P1778 which is the clutch solenoid (something in that manner) tested that part OEMs read right about 5.4 on both so that part is good. Called numerous places they said that it's an internal issue and need to replace the whole transmission as that code is a sign. I am not ok or buying this without getting advise from others or testing it somehow. When the car sits for 5 minutes it will do the same thing go for 10 ft and rev up and that's it. Is it sucking up stuff and stopping or what could this possibly be. Again, nothing at all with the tranny in the past. I am the only driver and would have notices something. We have flushed the tranny now and put in a new filter. didn't make a bit of difference.
Help me out with this please

mattcl-s

do what drn33 did put in an 06 Odyssey transmission or an 06 accord transmission either one would work good luck!

THAYES77

"eeding assistance in self diagnosing Forgive me as I am brand new to this forum and wasn't sure how to post a new thread.
the tranny issue in the 01 CL has been beat to death i know.
Here is what happened. Took the car on Saturday to get brakes all around... ran fine nothing ever slipped leaked at all in this car and had for 5 years. Car has 167 on it. So I go in store come out car goes in reverse, will go into drive but won't move just RMS all the way.
Had towed pulled the cod P1778 which is the clutch solenoid (something in that manner) tested that part OEMs read right about 5.4 on both so that part is good. Called numerous places they said that it's an internal issue and need to replace the whole transmission as that code is a sign. I am not ok or buying this without getting advise from others or testing it somehow. When the car sits for 5 minutes it will do the same thing go for 10 ft and rev up and that's it. Is it sucking up stuff and stopping or what could this possibly be. Again, nothing at all with the tranny in the past. I am the only driver and would have notices something. We have flushed the tranny now and put in a new filter. didn't make a bit of difference.
Help me out with this please"



So does this sound like the actual tranny or something else with a solenoid or something. My mechanic tried ONE thing after pulling up the code P1768 (which is the linear solenoid) tested it and they read 5.4 OEM so it appears that is fine. However then he decided it must be internal and removed the whole tranny. Now because I have to pay out the pocket for a car that isn't really worth the cost of a new tranny I am trying to decide, what if it was actually something else and now I take the tranny to get rebuilt or a new one and then put it back in and the problem is still there?

01acls

The two code you gave are for a S type.

The correct diagnose would be to do a pressure test on the trans or throld parts at it and hope for the best.

68- pressure solenoid A $250. Inaddition you should of check the screen at the bottow of the three pipes. Replace the three O-rings n gasket.

78- pressure solenoid C $250. Clean screen/gasket.

Parts labor 1.5-2.0 hours.

I think changing both would of given you a 50/50 chance of success bc both are directly related to atf pressure.

01acls

The Solenoids could test ok but thats not always a true indication of the solenoid if it only malfunctions after it warms up, which can happen.