who will win ?
12-19-2010, 07:01 PM
#162
Three Wheelin'
This is the description from thier auction.
""""This is a Phoenix Friction Stage 3 Racing Clutch Kit. The kit features a Phoenix Friction manufactured high heat Cerametallic spring dampened racing disc. It will provide up to a 60% increase over the stock engine torque capacity (ETC). At the same time, you will not notice any increase in pedal effort over the stock clutch and offers chatter-resistant lift-off for a great daily ride. Our Cerametallic button discs will give you the fastest shifts due to their low radial mass which reduces their overall flywheel effect and works with all flywheels, including lightweight steel and aluminum. You can expect 200% the life over original equipment woven organic linings from Cerametallic buttons under normal driving conditions. These buttons will absorb the most energy of all the friction materials and is the material of choice for the highest torque applications. A Phoenix Stage 3 Racing product is a direct factory fit and requires no modifications for installation. """"
What makes it a stage 3? Not that pos pressure plate! The pressure plate is the most important part when holding power is a concern.
They are full of shit! First of all you don't get a 60% increase force with out effecting the pedal. Second, the disk has very very little to do with the amount of TQ the clutch kit will hold (thats the pressure plates job). Also funny how they don't even mention the pressure plate. I'd bet you a grand its the cheapest pressure plate they could get from china probably does not even hold as well as a new oem.
You already have the p2r disk, just look for a better pressure plate, and if you did not change the throwout and pilot, then go get some oem ones and you should have a good kit.
""""This is a Phoenix Friction Stage 3 Racing Clutch Kit. The kit features a Phoenix Friction manufactured high heat Cerametallic spring dampened racing disc. It will provide up to a 60% increase over the stock engine torque capacity (ETC). At the same time, you will not notice any increase in pedal effort over the stock clutch and offers chatter-resistant lift-off for a great daily ride. Our Cerametallic button discs will give you the fastest shifts due to their low radial mass which reduces their overall flywheel effect and works with all flywheels, including lightweight steel and aluminum. You can expect 200% the life over original equipment woven organic linings from Cerametallic buttons under normal driving conditions. These buttons will absorb the most energy of all the friction materials and is the material of choice for the highest torque applications. A Phoenix Stage 3 Racing product is a direct factory fit and requires no modifications for installation. """"
What makes it a stage 3? Not that pos pressure plate! The pressure plate is the most important part when holding power is a concern.
They are full of shit! First of all you don't get a 60% increase force with out effecting the pedal. Second, the disk has very very little to do with the amount of TQ the clutch kit will hold (thats the pressure plates job). Also funny how they don't even mention the pressure plate. I'd bet you a grand its the cheapest pressure plate they could get from china probably does not even hold as well as a new oem.
You already have the p2r disk, just look for a better pressure plate, and if you did not change the throwout and pilot, then go get some oem ones and you should have a good kit.
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 12-19-2010 at 07:03 PM.
12-20-2010, 05:31 PM
#165
chang of plans going with this
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/s...3-p-76997.html
and the p2r clutch will be up for sale
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/s...3-p-76997.html
and the p2r clutch will be up for sale
12-20-2010, 09:51 PM
#166
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The SPEC clutch will fail. Its just a stock pressure plate thats been painted and a shitty clutch disc. The Exedy is a decent stock replacement, but that price is ridiculous compared to stock.
There is nothing wrong with the stock pressure plate or P2R clutch disc. The P2R disc was made for the stock parts. Many people are running it (including a 400hp+ M90 J36). Either your parts are defective or the install was done incorrectly.
There is nothing wrong with the stock pressure plate or P2R clutch disc. The P2R disc was made for the stock parts. Many people are running it (including a 400hp+ M90 J36). Either your parts are defective or the install was done incorrectly.
12-25-2010, 04:23 PM
#168
The SPEC clutch will fail. Its just a stock pressure plate thats been painted and a shitty clutch disc. The Exedy is a decent stock replacement, but that price is ridiculous compared to stock.
There is nothing wrong with the stock pressure plate or P2R clutch disc. The P2R disc was made for the stock parts. Many people are running it (including a 400hp+ M90 J36). Either your parts are defective or the install was done incorrectly.
There is nothing wrong with the stock pressure plate or P2R clutch disc. The P2R disc was made for the stock parts. Many people are running it (including a 400hp+ M90 J36). Either your parts are defective or the install was done incorrectly.
01-18-2011, 05:06 PM
#169
Oh I'm def down to have a little fun, maybe I can see for myself how your CL can beat an e46 M3, which would make my DD no challenge 4 u. PM me some details 
Lol u can come along too, although I believe you'd have the fastest car present
I concur
That e36 doesn't look stock, looks more like a full intake mods, exhaust and chip to me.
Lol u can come along too, although I believe you'd have the fastest car present
I concur
That e36 doesn't look stock, looks more like a full intake mods, exhaust and chip to me.
05-03-2011, 08:04 PM
#170
The SPEC clutch will fail. Its just a stock pressure plate thats been painted and a shitty clutch disc. The Exedy is a decent stock replacement, but that price is ridiculous compared to stock.
There is nothing wrong with the stock pressure plate or P2R clutch disc. The P2R disc was made for the stock parts. Many people are running it (including a 400hp+ M90 J36). Either your parts are defective or the install was done incorrectly.
There is nothing wrong with the stock pressure plate or P2R clutch disc. The P2R disc was made for the stock parts. Many people are running it (including a 400hp+ M90 J36). Either your parts are defective or the install was done incorrectly.
05-20-2011, 11:37 AM
#173
http://s1119.photobucket.com/albums/...t=1cde43a5.jpg
Some stuff are for sale
05-21-2011, 10:47 PM
#176
Three Wheelin'
what is a 3.5 supposed to run?
how much money do you have in the conversion? it doesnt seem like its worth the time and effort.
im not trying to be shitty, i would like to know more detailed info is all so i can make a better decision on the 3.5...thanks
how much money do you have in the conversion? it doesnt seem like its worth the time and effort.
im not trying to be shitty, i would like to know more detailed info is all so i can make a better decision on the 3.5...thanks
05-22-2011, 08:52 AM
#177
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
check this thread out. Lots of info. There is a big bump in torque, which explains the 1/4 mile time above. It would be worth it. Screw the little mods, just save up and do a big one with more results.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/3-5-liter-hybrid-build-information-714305/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/3-5-liter-hybrid-build-information-714305/
05-22-2011, 10:51 AM
#178
Umm 14s to 13s I dont think there's a mod that can do that apart from $4000 supercharger that only gives u 40-60 let's not forget I did it the cheapest way no PNP on the car yet I'm still running a Complete mdx motor. Theres power in every gear even 6th & I also put my stock exhaust back on which s ristricted from my old 2/5" and I can still add the S/C and be running 12sec if there's someone in the tristate area with a j32 or S/C I'll love to put it to the test. I ran a old friend that has the 3.5type S he use to get me in low end now I piss on him in every gear I bit him so bad he Bought a the same cutout I have & still got is ass wooped wit 19" heavy rims I'm going to buy some tires for my stock tires then we see if I can touch 12 then S/C kit of get tired of that 75shot but am sceared.
05-22-2011, 02:53 PM
#180
Three Wheelin'
so, it looks like a 30-40hp gain? and torque gain as well around the same?
so, 6spd with our normal bolt ons and 3.5 crark,pistons, rods, scores about 275+/-whp? probably would be much more with a different ecu, or tuning would put it to 300 or more...
if thats the case, then hell yeah its worth the money.
im gonna start seeing if i can piece it together and have someone do the labor. im tired of working on this car...lol
so, 6spd with our normal bolt ons and 3.5 crark,pistons, rods, scores about 275+/-whp? probably would be much more with a different ecu, or tuning would put it to 300 or more...
if thats the case, then hell yeah its worth the money.
im gonna start seeing if i can piece it together and have someone do the labor. im tired of working on this car...lol
05-22-2011, 03:25 PM
#181
If not more . Search civic build I think he's was like 289 whp plus I think he's cat was clogged.
.
Quote:
Here are the swap options along with brief advantage(s)/disadvantage(s):
BLOCK/HEADS (incl. manifold (upper/lower), tb)
------------------
J30A1/J30A1
advantage: no modification needed.
disadvantage: no torque until turbo/sc kicks in.
J30A1/J32A2
advantage: mid-range and top-end power
disadvantage: J30A1 pistons have to be modified to fit large J32A2 (intake) valves.
Not much torque until turbo/sc kicks in.
J32A2/J32A2
advantage: no modification needed, mid-range, top-end power.
disadvantage: torque is still ok but better than J30A1
J35A4/J30A1 (Odyssey '02-04/ '00-02 Accord V6)
advantage: no modifications needed, adequate torque, adequate mid-range
disadvantage:needed better cams, large intake valves for overal better powerband, top-end power
Option 1:
If budget is limited the solution is to swap J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) cams into stock J30A1(Accord V6) cyl. heads (see sticky CL-S swap and Cam machining).
Option 2:
Get J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) complete cyl. heads + IM (intake manifold)
But requires different pistons :p (see J35/J32 below) to clear J32A2 valves.
J35A3/J35A3 (Acura MDX '01-02), J35A4/J35A4 (Honda Odyssey '02-04)
advantage: no modificationsneeded, great torque, nice mid-range
disadvantage: little less air flow than J32A2 but very close.
This option looks like a good choice if getting the complete engine or even separate short block and cyl. heads/manifold due to a price. And MDX the cyl. heads are the same part # as CL-S, however intake valves and cams are different than CL-S but overall much better than pathetic AV6.
J35A1/J32A2 (Odyssey '01/CL-S '01-03)
advantage: great entire powerband and especially torque.
disadvantage: Need CL-S or RL pistons.
Note: Same options apply as listed below.
J35A3/J32A2 ('01-02 MDX/CL-S '01-03) or J35A4/J32A2 (Odyssey '02-04/CL-S '01-03)
advantage: great entire powerband and especially torque.
disadvantage: Need CL-S or RL pistons.
There are also couple options:
Option 1
With '01-02 complete MDX block or '02-04 Odyssey complete block (crank/rods/pistons) it is required to purchase 2005 Acura RL pistons (new set $50 each) This is a best option still since these pistons have clearance for large 36mm J32A2 (intake) valves thus no modification needed. Despite the fact they have higher 11.0:1 CR still even supercharger can be used here with low boost up to 7psi intercooled (assuming safe AFR). In addition, if 11:1 CR is too high for you, you can use '03 CL-S pistons with 10.5:1 CR.
Option 2
'01-03 J32A2 block (CL-S)
Required to purchase the following:
-= hondaautomotiveparts.com =-
'02-'04 Odyssey (crankshaft)
Product No. 368270 or
Honda part #13310-PGK-A00
'02-'04 Odyssey (connecting rod)
Product No. 368269 or
Honda part #13210-PGK-A00
Main bearings + rod bearings
-= acuraautomotiveparts.org =-
'03 CL-S (pistons) - 10.5:1 CR or
'05 RL (pistons) - 11.0:1 CR
pistons rings (per chosen model)
Note: Odyssey pistons do not have clearance to fit large 36mm J32A2 (intake) valves. Solution - custom job to increase valve pockets.
BTW, The only advantage to get J32A2 block is due to better cylinder sleeves to withstand heat designed for higher redline vehicle, otherwise depending on the price Odyssey or MDX block are the best bet.
Keep in mind, J35A5 '03-04 MDX will not fit on 6th gen. AV6/CL/TL/CL-S/TL-S due to different design, and looks like only for 7th gen. AV6.
Edit: The correct valve dimensions now stand as follows: incl. J30A4/J32A4
J30A1 '98-02 AV6: 34mm/29mm (intake/exhaust)
J30A4 '03+ AV6: 35mm/30mm
J32A1 '01-03' TL/CL: 34mm/30mm
J32A2 '01-03 TL-S/CL-S: 36mm/30mm
J32A4 '04+ TL: 35mm/30mm
J35A1 '99-01 Odyssey: 34mm/29mm
J35A4 '02-04 Odyssey: 35mm/30mm
Discuss 3.5 builds here
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Acurazine!
.
Quote:
Here are the swap options along with brief advantage(s)/disadvantage(s):
BLOCK/HEADS (incl. manifold (upper/lower), tb)
------------------
J30A1/J30A1
advantage: no modification needed.
disadvantage: no torque until turbo/sc kicks in.
J30A1/J32A2
advantage: mid-range and top-end power
disadvantage: J30A1 pistons have to be modified to fit large J32A2 (intake) valves.
Not much torque until turbo/sc kicks in.
J32A2/J32A2
advantage: no modification needed, mid-range, top-end power.
disadvantage: torque is still ok but better than J30A1
J35A4/J30A1 (Odyssey '02-04/ '00-02 Accord V6)
advantage: no modifications needed, adequate torque, adequate mid-range
disadvantage:needed better cams, large intake valves for overal better powerband, top-end power
Option 1:
If budget is limited the solution is to swap J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) cams into stock J30A1(Accord V6) cyl. heads (see sticky CL-S swap and Cam machining).
Option 2:
Get J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) complete cyl. heads + IM (intake manifold)
But requires different pistons :p (see J35/J32 below) to clear J32A2 valves.
J35A3/J35A3 (Acura MDX '01-02), J35A4/J35A4 (Honda Odyssey '02-04)
advantage: no modificationsneeded, great torque, nice mid-range
disadvantage: little less air flow than J32A2 but very close.
This option looks like a good choice if getting the complete engine or even separate short block and cyl. heads/manifold due to a price. And MDX the cyl. heads are the same part # as CL-S, however intake valves and cams are different than CL-S but overall much better than pathetic AV6.
J35A1/J32A2 (Odyssey '01/CL-S '01-03)
advantage: great entire powerband and especially torque.
disadvantage: Need CL-S or RL pistons.
Note: Same options apply as listed below.
J35A3/J32A2 ('01-02 MDX/CL-S '01-03) or J35A4/J32A2 (Odyssey '02-04/CL-S '01-03)
advantage: great entire powerband and especially torque.
disadvantage: Need CL-S or RL pistons.
There are also couple options:
Option 1
With '01-02 complete MDX block or '02-04 Odyssey complete block (crank/rods/pistons) it is required to purchase 2005 Acura RL pistons (new set $50 each) This is a best option still since these pistons have clearance for large 36mm J32A2 (intake) valves thus no modification needed. Despite the fact they have higher 11.0:1 CR still even supercharger can be used here with low boost up to 7psi intercooled (assuming safe AFR). In addition, if 11:1 CR is too high for you, you can use '03 CL-S pistons with 10.5:1 CR.
Option 2
'01-03 J32A2 block (CL-S)
Required to purchase the following:
-= hondaautomotiveparts.com =-
'02-'04 Odyssey (crankshaft)
Product No. 368270 or
Honda part #13310-PGK-A00
'02-'04 Odyssey (connecting rod)
Product No. 368269 or
Honda part #13210-PGK-A00
Main bearings + rod bearings
-= acuraautomotiveparts.org =-
'03 CL-S (pistons) - 10.5:1 CR or
'05 RL (pistons) - 11.0:1 CR
pistons rings (per chosen model)
Note: Odyssey pistons do not have clearance to fit large 36mm J32A2 (intake) valves. Solution - custom job to increase valve pockets.
BTW, The only advantage to get J32A2 block is due to better cylinder sleeves to withstand heat designed for higher redline vehicle, otherwise depending on the price Odyssey or MDX block are the best bet.
Keep in mind, J35A5 '03-04 MDX will not fit on 6th gen. AV6/CL/TL/CL-S/TL-S due to different design, and looks like only for 7th gen. AV6.
Edit: The correct valve dimensions now stand as follows: incl. J30A4/J32A4
J30A1 '98-02 AV6: 34mm/29mm (intake/exhaust)
J30A4 '03+ AV6: 35mm/30mm
J32A1 '01-03' TL/CL: 34mm/30mm
J32A2 '01-03 TL-S/CL-S: 36mm/30mm
J32A4 '04+ TL: 35mm/30mm
J35A1 '99-01 Odyssey: 34mm/29mm
J35A4 '02-04 Odyssey: 35mm/30mm
Discuss 3.5 builds here
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Acurazine!
05-23-2011, 02:37 PM
#184
Three Wheelin'
awesome...
i was actually considering getting a 350z because our cars are pretty heavy and i thought it would take major work to get as quick as a slightly modded 350z, but after seeing this, i guess not. Even though a slammed 350z looks cooler, i dont think i can reason spending 15k for the same year car, when mine is almost payed off..
thanks 4 the info
big difference with the 4" intake huh?
if its that much, i will make one asap..lol
i was actually considering getting a 350z because our cars are pretty heavy and i thought it would take major work to get as quick as a slightly modded 350z, but after seeing this, i guess not. Even though a slammed 350z looks cooler, i dont think i can reason spending 15k for the same year car, when mine is almost payed off..
thanks 4 the info
big difference with the 4" intake huh?
if its that much, i will make one asap..lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Scooter
Sports Talk & Fantasy Leagues
18
09-05-2002 06:36 PM
