StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

The longer i drive the more difference i notice car really feels more firm up front while taking a turns or braking or acceleration. I love it and it might be one of the reasons for our engine mounts to go so early. I was focused on my clutch and tranny related stuff but once i open it up a bit i can say ots huge difference. Im just not sure if the difference is because old once where worn or just not stiff enough. Anyway moogs works fine. The only thing i was concerned about was that aftermarket bushings front and rear are exactly the same size but oem is not. Front one is bigger than rear. Other than that great upgrade

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i need to put mine in. had it laying around for almost a year now.

1foxbody

I bought the moog radius rod bushing kit $27.47 and moog two front end links $16.75 each. I only paid $64.02 total after tax. Use coupon code BIG30 to subtract $30 off the total. Can't beat that for the price.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Advance Auto ftw

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

just a quick question if ordering the moog do you need to order one for each side or is it come in pairs

1foxbody

The radius rod bushing set is a complete kit. For the end links they are sold separately as left and right.

1foxbody

X2 I always buy miscellaneous stuff through them and use they're coupons. they have some of the best coupons lol.

1foxbody

I just wanted to give you guys a update. I installed these bushings Thurs night before I went on a road trip Fri to Atlantic City NJ. They suck!!!! I hate them it makes the car feel horrible and shake like crazy anything above 75+mph. I already ordered brand new OEM bushings today to install back in once they come in stock. I do not recommend these to anyone. They are stiff as hell compared to OEM. Does anyone else have this problem?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

You must did something wrong. Mine are perfect no issues at all. I recommend to reuse oem metal bushings.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

No issues here.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

If you followed the scanned Helms manual instructions, by StreetKA, perfectly in post #89, there should not be a problem. It is all right there.

It is very important to:
1. Make sure that the two different size bushing sets, one for each side, are installed per the instructions; Step #6 on the instructions.
2. Torque the NEW RR self locking nut to 40lbf-ft.
3. Torque the RR bolts to the LCA to 119lbf-ft.
4. Get an alignment to make sure caster is within normal limits.

Neejay was one who mentioned problems and it was because his reused self locking nuts failed and came loose.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You know, I dont remember my bushings being two different sizes

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The black set, which I purchased, are a little harder to differentiate in size. Look at the RED set on the link below. The two in the front are the (smaller)rear ones vs. the two larger ones for the front, in the rear of the picture.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103

RooEng

What did the old ones look like?

New harder bushing wouldn't make the car shake. The old bushing were probably soft enough to mask another problem.

Is it a constant shake like an out of balance tire or like hit a bump and it feels like driving over railroad tracks

1foxbody

I installed them correctly and torqued all six bolts the only thing I reused was the locking nut. I ordered moog ones and they are very stiff compared to OEM. It makes sense that the car would feel like that after installing them since they are so damn stiff lol. Rooeng it almost feels like a tire is out of balance very bad, at anything above 75+mph. Which I know isn't because my car was perfectly smooth before I installed these bushings.

I already ordered brand new OEM ones because no sense putting old ones back in. Honestly I don't want to replace any bushings on my car that will make it stiffer than stock. I rather just replace bushings with new OEM ones. That's one reason why my car isn't slammed yet because I want to go the air ride route, which is very expansive to do the right way. I also keep contemplating whether or not to switch my front and side engine mounts out for OEM ones because I hate the vibrations. I also don't want to have broken mounts either so its a shitty situation.

Blitz

I can understand not wanting it to be rougher, I feel the same way. I'm willing to give up some plushness but I don't want it to ride, act or sound like a cammed drag car either.

So is the ride REALLY BAD or is it just too far off stock for your tastes?

1foxbody

Exactly I feel the same way. That's why I'm contemplating whether or not to keep my engine mounts in or go back to stock. I'm willing to keep them in and deal with them but I definitely don't want anymore vibrations then what those already do lol. If it was a drag car I wouldn't care at all but this is a car I drive everyday and I want it to be comfortable like stock with a slightly sportier feel.

It's not really bad it almost feels like a wheel is out of balance really bad or like a axle is out of balance. The weird part is it seems like it get's really noticeable anything above 75+mph.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Theres another issue somewhere

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

You may have axle out of balance or wheels and when you change the worn bushings for new firmer ones thats why you may feel more vibrations. I would check those first before you do anything else. Do you still have stock axles? How many miles ?

fsttyms1

there is another issue somewhere. They shouldnt cause shaking above 75. Something on the install had to be wrong.

1foxbody

I still have OEM axles and my car has about 95k miles. The install is pretty simple I don't think I could of done anything wrong. The stock bushings I removed didn't even look to be in that bad of shape. I had absolutely no vibrations at all before installing these bushings. I'm going to put the car on the lift today and bring it up to that speed to see if I can spot anything out of the normal.

RooEng

I'm in the middle of changing the strut rod bushings to the Moogs. Anybody got a picture of the passenger strut rod? It looks like mine was installed upside down. I went to compare it to the drivers side but it's completly different.

BTW Getting to the two bolts on the aft end of the strut rod is a pain!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

This might help. Looks like it curves inward.

RooEng

I saw that diagram but some of the parts aren't drawn correct like the front bushing is smaller than the rear which is backward and the left rod is shaped like the right.

Looking at the arm, it'll only go on one way which was the way it came off, like you said curved inward. What threw me off was when it's turned so it curves outward, it follows the contour of the frame. #11

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Youre going to make me go outside and look at my car, arent you?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Once you separate the lower ball joint, swing the knuckle assembly slightly forward and rest it on a jackstand. Then grab the LCA and push down, that should make sufficient room for you to wrench those bolts.

Don't forget to give us your on how they perform.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I thought I updated this, but I guess not.

Turns out, I installed the bushings incorrectly

I put the two smaller bushings on the driver side and the two larger on the pass side. It really affected my alignment. They were able to get it in spec at the time though.

When I corrected it about a month ago, I went in and had it realigned. The two was out a total of .25"

Just so people are sure:

Big bushing = Front
Small bushing = Rear

1foxbody

At least you caught that civicdrivr!

I installed brand new OEM ones and my vibrations went away completely compared to the moog's. Also my original ones looked worn and a way different shape compared to the brand new OEM ones. Obviously they get worn out over the years and almost 100k miles. I highly recommend going with new OEM ones again if you want comfort just like when the car was new, no one will regret it!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i just installed the moog bushings last weekend. way better then my worn out oem ones. no complaints here

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

How did I miss this? Ordered the ES bushings.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

I installed moog's few months ago and i think it started to make noises. Im gonna go ahead and order the ES bushings now.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Remember, if you used the RR collars that came with the MOOG kit, they are longer than the OEMs. So one may need to revert back to the OEM size for the ES bushings.

Or cut the MOOG collars to OEM length, it's up to you guys.

Oh, and don't do a herp derp like civicdrivr in post #147. hehe

Good Luck.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I used the OEM collars and washers with the ES bushings.

It squeaks a bit when it cold but my entire car rattles/shakes.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

I reused oem collars abd washers as well

1foxbody

I don't get why you guys like the moog bushings they are hard as a rock compared to brand new oem ones. I couldn't stand them haha.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

No wheel hop

zeta

iTrader: (1)

That's what makes feedback important when it comes to mods like this.

Unfortunetly, your experience with vibrations '...is an observation that is numerically distant from the rest of the data'. The definition of an 'outlier' in statistics. I think there was one other person, richardparker, whom had a bad experience and actually went back to OEM as well, which is fine.

When the time comes, it will also be interesting to see if hamping wheel hop becomes apparent in trying to meet your drag time goal.

Keep us updated.

1foxbody

I understand but I don't have any wheel hop at all. Your right though that may change with a slick and being at the track so will see.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Are you still running those worn crappy tires?

1foxbody

Nope I have new continental dws tires on my tl a spec wheels now, I love them.