2015 ILX exhaust questions
#1
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2015 ILX exhaust questions
Hey what's up fellow ILX owners...
Do they make a full performance exhaust for the R20? If so, where the heck can I find it?
Do they make a full performance exhaust for the R20? If so, where the heck can I find it?
#2
Genererically speaking.. The R18 exhausts SHOULD fit. You can ask a local shop in your area that works on a lot of civics to take a good look under the car and confirm. Underneath the civic and ILX look about the same. I know a couple people did axle back exhausts.
#3
IMO tho, Axle back is not worth the money tho. When I was looking online, All the Axlebacks for k24 motor were 60mm/2.38/ or even 2.25. That makes no SENSE! On the newest Civic SI's (14-15's), The stock exhaust piping was up upped from 2.38 to 2.5 and the stock hp is rated at 205, up from the previous 201. Makes no sense to me to pay to go smaller. Seriously, you're not even paying for the look as the exhaust is hidden, and even the tone won't change much. I know you have an R20, but I believe its still similar size piping at either 2 or 2.25. So at least go 2.5, and aftermarket. It probably won't do anything crazy HP wise, maybe a solid 10 hp or 5whp on a R20. It will still be quiet, but it will sound much nicer.
If you get a Civic R18 exhaust, the only small issue will be having to cut out the muffler exit in the bumper, so keep the exit muffler can size in perspective. Bigger it is, the more you gotta trim from the bumper.
If you get a Civic R18 exhaust, the only small issue will be having to cut out the muffler exit in the bumper, so keep the exit muffler can size in perspective. Bigger it is, the more you gotta trim from the bumper.
Last edited by aomechmarine; 11-09-2015 at 04:04 PM.
#4
The size of the axle back really doesnt matter at all due to how far away the piping is from the exhaust manifold.
The piping directly after the exhaust leaves the engine is the most important part.
For the R20 that would be the header/cat. You can replace the downpipe like I did but it wont do ANYTHING but increase the sound if the pipe before it is more restrictive.
As for the axle back, you have the header/cat, then the downpipe, then a few feet of B pipe before you hit the axleback.
If your header is only 2in then opening up anything after is literally pointless when it comes to performance. So a stock header with a 2.5-3in axleback wont do anything but change the sound.
Once you replace ALL piping to a larger OD it will improve performance. With that said... if your header is 2.5-3in, your downpipe is 2.5-3in, and your b piping is 2.5-3in, then if your axleback was only 2.0 it would take NO performance away because you are so far away from the manifold now.
Many tuners dont understand this and opt for 3in catbacks. Thats cool, but if youre header/downpipe are only 2in then you didnt do anything but create an echo chamber under your car.
The piping directly after the exhaust leaves the engine is the most important part.
For the R20 that would be the header/cat. You can replace the downpipe like I did but it wont do ANYTHING but increase the sound if the pipe before it is more restrictive.
As for the axle back, you have the header/cat, then the downpipe, then a few feet of B pipe before you hit the axleback.
If your header is only 2in then opening up anything after is literally pointless when it comes to performance. So a stock header with a 2.5-3in axleback wont do anything but change the sound.
Once you replace ALL piping to a larger OD it will improve performance. With that said... if your header is 2.5-3in, your downpipe is 2.5-3in, and your b piping is 2.5-3in, then if your axleback was only 2.0 it would take NO performance away because you are so far away from the manifold now.
Many tuners dont understand this and opt for 3in catbacks. Thats cool, but if youre header/downpipe are only 2in then you didnt do anything but create an echo chamber under your car.
#5
DAMN dude, you actually get it... Nailed it. I'm getting the same thing just from reading stuff on the k24's actually. Even from reading stuff on Vitviper's blog, and other's. I'm actually convinced 3 inch piping is just overkill. 2.75 or even a more conservative 2.5 downpipe is where it's at. Same for the catbacks. Sucks cuz I'm running a 2.5 catback, but oh well. I'm sure it does have some small gains. Vit's own dyno testing really assures that its the downpipe where the gains are at. Cold air intake adds about 5WHP(10hp) and so does a Catback (on k24).
It's just a bigger is better craze right now. People aren't reading the available info. Plus before for the k24 there was only 2.5 or 3 inch sized downpipes, and people get caught up on trying to match the pipe sizing the whole way, which isn't necessarily even needed or even beneficial.
It's just a bigger is better craze right now. People aren't reading the available info. Plus before for the k24 there was only 2.5 or 3 inch sized downpipes, and people get caught up on trying to match the pipe sizing the whole way, which isn't necessarily even needed or even beneficial.
Last edited by aomechmarine; 11-09-2015 at 07:43 PM.
#6
DAMN dude, you actually get it... Nailed it. I'm getting the same thing just from reading stuff on the k24's actually. Even from reading stuff on Vitviper's blog, and other's. I'm actually convinced 3 inch piping is just overkill. 2.75 or even a more conservative 2.5 downpipe is where it's at. Same for the catbacks. Sucks cuz I'm running a 2.5 catback, but oh well. I'm sure it does have some small gains. Vit's own dyno testing really assures that its the downpipe where the gains are at. Cold air intake adds about 5WHP(10hp) and so does a Catback (on k24).
It's just a bigger is better craze right now. People aren't reading the available info. Plus before for the k24 there was only 2.5 or 3 inch sized downpipes, and people get caught up on trying to match the pipe sizing the whole way, which isn't necessarily even needed or even beneficial.
It's just a bigger is better craze right now. People aren't reading the available info. Plus before for the k24 there was only 2.5 or 3 inch sized downpipes, and people get caught up on trying to match the pipe sizing the whole way, which isn't necessarily even needed or even beneficial.
#7
Looks damn close to stock but it uses an oversized pod filter instead of a flat drop in. It also utilizes the air damn that pulls air up from under the car just like a CAI as well the airbox is vented to allow air in like a traditional SRI but only behind it further away from the heat the engine releases.
It is pricey but it's emissions legal in all states and a good investment if you really want an intake.
Last edited by usdmJON; 11-20-2015 at 06:34 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Sorry to disturb on Christmas but I was wondering if you guys had other possible performance-wise mods in mind for the the R20 other then CA or SR Intakes, I heard running boost was possible on it but anything else??
#11
Intermediate
R20 exhaust
The size of the axle back really doesnt matter at all due to how far away the piping is from the exhaust manifold.
The piping directly after the exhaust leaves the engine is the most important part.
For the R20 that would be the header/cat. You can replace the downpipe like I did but it wont do ANYTHING but increase the sound if the pipe before it is more restrictive.
As for the axle back, you have the header/cat, then the downpipe, then a few feet of B pipe before you hit the axleback.
If your header is only 2in then opening up anything after is literally pointless when it comes to performance. So a stock header with a 2.5-3in axleback wont do anything but change the sound.
Once you replace ALL piping to a larger OD it will improve performance. With that said... if your header is 2.5-3in, your downpipe is 2.5-3in, and your b piping is 2.5-3in, then if your axleback was only 2.0 it would take NO performance away because you are so far away from the manifold now.
Many tuners dont understand this and opt for 3in catbacks. Thats cool, but if youre header/downpipe are only 2in then you didnt do anything but create an echo chamber under your car.
The piping directly after the exhaust leaves the engine is the most important part.
For the R20 that would be the header/cat. You can replace the downpipe like I did but it wont do ANYTHING but increase the sound if the pipe before it is more restrictive.
As for the axle back, you have the header/cat, then the downpipe, then a few feet of B pipe before you hit the axleback.
If your header is only 2in then opening up anything after is literally pointless when it comes to performance. So a stock header with a 2.5-3in axleback wont do anything but change the sound.
Once you replace ALL piping to a larger OD it will improve performance. With that said... if your header is 2.5-3in, your downpipe is 2.5-3in, and your b piping is 2.5-3in, then if your axleback was only 2.0 it would take NO performance away because you are so far away from the manifold now.
Many tuners dont understand this and opt for 3in catbacks. Thats cool, but if youre header/downpipe are only 2in then you didnt do anything but create an echo chamber under your car.
What all have you done to your exhaust? And do you have a video sound clip of it?
#12
Soon I will be looking at an axle back then have a local muffler shop connect the downpipe and axle back with 2.5in piping.
#13
Intermediate
How does it sound the way it is right now? any rasp? i dont mind a tiny bit but i don't want my $30,000 car sounding like a 20 year old honda with a fart can hahaha
#14
Only things changing thew sound are my Takeda air box as it is vented in the back so you do hear that slightly as well the downpipe.
Like I said zero rasp but it really isnt much of a difference. It is there, but most people would assume its stock.
#16
Intermediate
Hey I was wondering if you guys think there would be any complications in using a weapon-r instead of the megan for the r20 Weapon-R
-lol thanks usdmjon for linking me here, shoulda looked first.
-lol thanks usdmjon for linking me here, shoulda looked first.
#18
Intermediate
Actually don't listen to anything I said. I thought you said "weapon-r intake" not "weapon-r instead" I thought it was weird you posted it on exhaust questions hahaha, my bad dude
#20
Hey I was wondering if you guys think there would be any complications in using a weapon-r instead of the megan for the r20 Weapon-R
-lol thanks usdmjon for linking me here, shoulda looked first.
-lol thanks usdmjon for linking me here, shoulda looked first.
If it is for the R18/R20 then yes it will work.... in theory. But I have not seen anyone do it so I can't say 100%.... I'm 99% sure it will fit though.
Check it out...
2013 Civic
2013 ILX
Right below the bright orange dipstick you will see that silver heat shield with two bolts attaching it to the motor. Under that heat shield is the part you would be replacing. You can see they look incidental. The header underneath it is probably identical as well.
I love those two pics for comparison. Shows you the room acura has in the engine bay over the civic.
The following 2 users liked this post by usdmJON:
ecpata (01-30-2016),
Preston421 (01-30-2016)
#21
Intermediate
From everything I've heard the Civic R18 and the ILX R20 are EXTREMELY similar if not identical. So my guess is that it will work without a problem since you're buying a Honda part for a Honda engine
But I'll be with Jon and say I'm only 99% sure not 100%. He knows his stuff so if he thinks it'll work then it will probably work.
But worst case scenario you can send it back, right?
But I'll be with Jon and say I'm only 99% sure not 100%. He knows his stuff so if he thinks it'll work then it will probably work.
But worst case scenario you can send it back, right?
#23
I picked up the Megan downpipe for the R18 and it fit perfect. That would sit right after the weaponsR header you posted.
I believe Weapons R has a downpipe as well so Id save and swap in the weapons R header+downpipe at the same time.
Then all that's left exhaust wise is the mid-pipe and axle-back.
To replace the axle-back you would have to buy one for the R series civic plus have a shop cut the tip off and weld on a new turndown style tip or cut the bumper to allow the existing tip to show.
Personally Id go turndown to keep the oem look there as from what I have seen for adding a rear exit exhaust on these cars... quad is the way to go. If you want less than 4 go dual but you need honestly the same amount of tips on each side. The single exists ive seen make the car look more like a civic.
Nothing so far available for the mid-pipe.
Id get the downpipe and the axle-back squared away then just call around to the local muffler/auto shops and see if any can or know where to have mendrel bent tubing done. Then have them just connect the downpipe to axleback with the same size pipe.
I believe Weapons R has a downpipe as well so Id save and swap in the weapons R header+downpipe at the same time.
Then all that's left exhaust wise is the mid-pipe and axle-back.
To replace the axle-back you would have to buy one for the R series civic plus have a shop cut the tip off and weld on a new turndown style tip or cut the bumper to allow the existing tip to show.
Personally Id go turndown to keep the oem look there as from what I have seen for adding a rear exit exhaust on these cars... quad is the way to go. If you want less than 4 go dual but you need honestly the same amount of tips on each side. The single exists ive seen make the car look more like a civic.
Nothing so far available for the mid-pipe.
Id get the downpipe and the axle-back squared away then just call around to the local muffler/auto shops and see if any can or know where to have mendrel bent tubing done. Then have them just connect the downpipe to axleback with the same size pipe.
The following 2 users liked this post by usdmJON:
ecpata (01-31-2016),
Preston421 (01-31-2016)
#24
Forgive me if this a stupid question lmao but would there would be no way to just change out header and downpipe with that weapon r I mentioned and keep the other part of the exhaust stock because I really didn't factor in the cost of the axle back and mid-pipe (my fault :/)?? Apart from probably making gains (if there are any) useless, would that just not be possible to do?
#25
Yeah you for sure can.
The weapons r header should directly bolt up to the OEM downpipe.
I know fact the weapons r downpipe will directly bolt up to the oem midpipe and oem cat'd header. So yes both or just one should directly bolt to the OEM exhaust. I say should simply because I have not done it myself.
You will see more gains from replacing the header over any other part of the exhaust unless you do a full catback+header.
So the weapons r header+downpipe will free up more airflow than anyone that has done anything to their axleback or midpipe.
Reason being is because the header is the first piece after the engine... aside from the exhaust mani. of course.
If the header is 2in then that is the bottle neck. If the rest of your exhaust is 3in it doesnt matter because the bottleneck prevents any extra air flow. Opening up that bottle neck to a 2.5in or 3in opening will increase air flow.
If you increase the downpipe and header to 2.5 then the mid pipe will become the bottle neck. You will see minimal gains from any exhaust modding without a tune but you will see more replacing the header than the axleback.
So IMO replace the header and downpipe then call it a day.
A couple years later you could always do the midpiping and axle back.
Keep in mind your car will need to be smogged eventually and the weapons r header WILL NOT pass inspection. Everything after that no is no issue... thats true for California anyways.
So again I say do header ASAP because in like 5 years you'll need to start taking it off to pass smog. Or considering that you may decide screw the header and just do the downpipe. This, like what I have, will leave the header as your bottleneck and wont give any gains. You will hear it though.
The weapons r header should directly bolt up to the OEM downpipe.
I know fact the weapons r downpipe will directly bolt up to the oem midpipe and oem cat'd header. So yes both or just one should directly bolt to the OEM exhaust. I say should simply because I have not done it myself.
You will see more gains from replacing the header over any other part of the exhaust unless you do a full catback+header.
So the weapons r header+downpipe will free up more airflow than anyone that has done anything to their axleback or midpipe.
Reason being is because the header is the first piece after the engine... aside from the exhaust mani. of course.
If the header is 2in then that is the bottle neck. If the rest of your exhaust is 3in it doesnt matter because the bottleneck prevents any extra air flow. Opening up that bottle neck to a 2.5in or 3in opening will increase air flow.
If you increase the downpipe and header to 2.5 then the mid pipe will become the bottle neck. You will see minimal gains from any exhaust modding without a tune but you will see more replacing the header than the axleback.
So IMO replace the header and downpipe then call it a day.
A couple years later you could always do the midpiping and axle back.
Keep in mind your car will need to be smogged eventually and the weapons r header WILL NOT pass inspection. Everything after that no is no issue... thats true for California anyways.
So again I say do header ASAP because in like 5 years you'll need to start taking it off to pass smog. Or considering that you may decide screw the header and just do the downpipe. This, like what I have, will leave the header as your bottleneck and wont give any gains. You will hear it though.
The following users liked this post:
ecpata (01-31-2016)
#26
ahh alright thank you for the clear explanation, that'll be just fine this is just a mean-time sort of part, I plan to eventually supercharge and thats likely when I'll take care of the rest of the exhaust.
#28
Weapon r header from 1.8L civic
Will this header fit the 2.0 ILX appreciate the feed back
Yeah you for sure can.
The weapons r header should directly bolt up to the OEM downpipe.
I know fact the weapons r downpipe will directly bolt up to the oem midpipe and oem cat'd header. So yes both or just one should directly bolt to the OEM exhaust. I say should simply because I have not done it myself.
You will see more gains from replacing the header over any other part of the exhaust unless you do a full catback+header.
So the weapons r header+downpipe will free up more airflow than anyone that has done anything to their axleback or midpipe.
Reason being is because the header is the first piece after the engine... aside from the exhaust mani. of course.
If the header is 2in then that is the bottle neck. If the rest of your exhaust is 3in it doesnt matter because the bottleneck prevents any extra air flow. Opening up that bottle neck to a 2.5in or 3in opening will increase air flow.
If you increase the downpipe and header to 2.5 then the mid pipe will become the bottle neck. You will see minimal gains from any exhaust modding without a tune but you will see more replacing the header than the axleback.
So IMO replace the header and downpipe then call it a day.
A couple years later you could always do the midpiping and axle back.
Keep in mind your car will need to be smogged eventually and the weapons r header WILL NOT pass inspection. Everything after that no is no issue... thats true for California anyways.
So again I say do header ASAP because in like 5 years you'll need to start taking it off to pass smog. Or considering that you may decide screw the header and just do the downpipe. This, like what I have, will leave the header as your bottleneck and wont give any gains. You will hear it though.
The weapons r header should directly bolt up to the OEM downpipe.
I know fact the weapons r downpipe will directly bolt up to the oem midpipe and oem cat'd header. So yes both or just one should directly bolt to the OEM exhaust. I say should simply because I have not done it myself.
You will see more gains from replacing the header over any other part of the exhaust unless you do a full catback+header.
So the weapons r header+downpipe will free up more airflow than anyone that has done anything to their axleback or midpipe.
Reason being is because the header is the first piece after the engine... aside from the exhaust mani. of course.
If the header is 2in then that is the bottle neck. If the rest of your exhaust is 3in it doesnt matter because the bottleneck prevents any extra air flow. Opening up that bottle neck to a 2.5in or 3in opening will increase air flow.
If you increase the downpipe and header to 2.5 then the mid pipe will become the bottle neck. You will see minimal gains from any exhaust modding without a tune but you will see more replacing the header than the axleback.
So IMO replace the header and downpipe then call it a day.
A couple years later you could always do the midpiping and axle back.
Keep in mind your car will need to be smogged eventually and the weapons r header WILL NOT pass inspection. Everything after that no is no issue... thats true for California anyways.
So again I say do header ASAP because in like 5 years you'll need to start taking it off to pass smog. Or considering that you may decide screw the header and just do the downpipe. This, like what I have, will leave the header as your bottleneck and wont give any gains. You will hear it though.
#29
#33
Hi everyone, so im considering getting RV6 header and megan racing downpipe for my 2014 acura ilx r20.
https://www.rv6-p.com/9c18pcd.html
Megan Racing
does anyone has any concern, comments, advice's? The only engine mod ive done is AEM cold air intake.
https://www.rv6-p.com/9c18pcd.html
Megan Racing
does anyone has any concern, comments, advice's? The only engine mod ive done is AEM cold air intake.
#35
Instructor
Pavlo... I have a 2.4 Dynamic. Personally I have done the following:
- RV6 Stainless steel downpipe (with highflow cat)
- Injen CAI
- Hondata Flashpro
With these mods I have definitely noticed a difference in performance, however the RV6 downpipe does make the exhaust sound throaty or definitely deeper in sound. If you are going to do the mods, I highly recommend getting the Hondata tool.
Good luck and have fun!
- RV6 Stainless steel downpipe (with highflow cat)
- Injen CAI
- Hondata Flashpro
With these mods I have definitely noticed a difference in performance, however the RV6 downpipe does make the exhaust sound throaty or definitely deeper in sound. If you are going to do the mods, I highly recommend getting the Hondata tool.
Good luck and have fun!
#36
Pavlo... I have a 2.4 Dynamic. Personally I have done the following:
- RV6 Stainless steel downpipe (with highflow cat)
- Injen CAI
- Hondata Flashpro
With these mods I have definitely noticed a difference in performance, however the RV6 downpipe does make the exhaust sound throaty or definitely deeper in sound. If you are going to do the mods, I highly recommend getting the Hondata tool.
Good luck and have fun!
- RV6 Stainless steel downpipe (with highflow cat)
- Injen CAI
- Hondata Flashpro
With these mods I have definitely noticed a difference in performance, however the RV6 downpipe does make the exhaust sound throaty or definitely deeper in sound. If you are going to do the mods, I highly recommend getting the Hondata tool.
Good luck and have fun!
#37
Instructor
I 100% agree if you are only putting in a CAI then picking up Hondata along with any tune will produce little improvements in performance. However if you are thinking of doing the a downpipe and anything much further, yes a tune will help. My next mod is the RBC intake manifold. I h
#38
Finally got my hands on a weapon-r header for a R20 engine, pretty happy with their quality looks very sharp. Planning on installing it next weekend, if anyone would like a tutorial let me know.
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