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Okay so I can tell that not a lot of people are keen on opening your dashboards to modify your brand new TLX but I've had this in mind from the get-go and wanted to share my plans I'll work on come Jan/Feb once all the parts arrive.
Goal: Add Apple's Peer to Peer Airplay to the upper dash of my base TLX for Waze/Google Maps/Plex/Netflix etc.
There's been plenty of tutorials out there adding tablets and smart TV consoles to the dashboard but it's always been a convoluted setup that required a wireless router and a hotspot be that the router itself or your phone. My approach tries to get rid of both and imo it's even better than the Android Drive/Apple CarPlay we'll see in future dashboards.
The steps are plug-n-play albeit the Apple TV mod:
1. Connect the Navtool to the car's dashboard
2. Connect all of the Navtool ends but the USB to the Radioshack converter (which unlike other converters in the market does not require an external power source)
3. Connect the USB power port from the Navtool to the Apple TV modified to take USB power
4. Peer to Peer Airplay.
The best new aspect of the newest Apple TV update is that it offers Peer to Peer Airplay which translates to no wifi router needed for your iPhone to send content.
I shared this before but you can always stick a Nexus 7 to the crevice of the upper dashboard which works perfectly for long road trips but you forgo the backup camera and simply risk a break in if you leave it there permanently. I've considered lots of alternatives out there and while regular Airplay can be had in the form of android apps, raspberry pi apps and whatnots, nothing out there offers Peer to Peer yet and I'll be happy to repourpose the ATV if a better alternative shows up in the future.
Any DIYers out there with me? I would love to hear some feedback.
Update: While I'm still awaiting for parts I've started testing certain aspects of Airplay and wanted to report on my findings.
A Maserati thread found that installing the Apple TV behind the dashboard rendered the infrared remote useless. There are workarounds for this but I will not explore it since all I'm looking for is Airplay.
Waze, the social driven car navigation app breaks when using airplay displaying an unnatural ratio. I plan on submitting a bug report to the Waze developers for this.
Also I wanted to emphasize that Peer to Peer airplay works only with the newest Apple TV. That is ATV 3 2013 version. I hope nobody went out to buy the older ATV 3 (2012) on my account by mistake.
Finally among the apps that worked fine with Airplay were Google Maps, Netflix and Plex.
Side Note: Some folks wanted to see how I handle this mod so to NOT opt for the tech package and I believe that's a mistake. The Tech package offers more than just navigation such as real leather, blind spot watch and larger wheels that put together make for a great value.
I chose the base TLX because it fit my needs better than the tech such as the leatherette being easier for the baby my wife and i are planning to have next year or the fact that when we're doing road trips my wife no longer needs to develop neck pains from watching shows on her iPad. Even though my background and job is IT, dead simple is what I wanted in my new car for my wife is not fond of technology. You could say that I chose the dual screen of the Honda/Accord for this reason as well.
Having said that, Chromecast is expected to work without Wifi in the near future which makes the dongle an even easier if not more appealing mod for Android users for it is cheaper and requires no modification like the Apple TV. Furthermore Chromecast's "backdrop" feature is a great wallpaper imo which it's something that the ATV sorely needs. I do have my reservations on whether a Chromcast would work hidden behind the dashboard however since the wireless pairing process is not done via bluetooth like Apple TV (but I'll be happy to test it if I get a free chromecast
Finally there are other viable alternatives to mirroring your smartphone like the Kivic One, which it's sort of a router, mirroring all-in-one device. And while I don't recommended it for various reasons I suspect some folks will go that route. The point here is that as a new alternative solution shows up in the near future (I'm really hoping Apple makes an Airplay dongle!) or even if I ended switching phones altogether the HDMI module is completely interchangeable and probably will be more versatile than Google and Apple's solutions.
Update 2: A small update for those still considering this mod.
I went ahead and purchased the ATV 3 (2013) from the local Staples. I asked them to price match an online deal I saw and they were happy to oblige. That plus the Staples Amex offer got me the box for $64 + tax (better than any Black Friday deal).
I mention this because the Navitool is on sale again for $277 (the Black Friday deal I bought for) granted the TLX is still not listed and I bought the RLX version with specific instructions for them to send me the TLX. I did email them specifically about the TLX and yes they will support it come Jan.
I don't mean to sound like a cheapo but it is because I waited for deals like these that I'll manage to setup my system for (by my current estimates) under $400 whereas a NaviTool system in by itself sells normally for $650.
I tested the ATV3 with the Radioshack converter w/o connecting it to the network to test the Peer to Peer version of Airplay and emulate the car conditions. I was happy to find that all of three navigation apps Apple Google and Waze (owned by Google btw) worked, however Plex ans Safari broke. I cancelled my Netflix account so can't test that anymore but I would guess that's a nay as well. It seems that app developers need to take extra measures to make Peer to Peer work as well as ATV update its settings to make Airplay more flexible. Because Safari is Apple's browser it will be supported down the road however 3rd party apps like Netflix and Plex will require some backing from the public for them to update this feature. All in all this was my greatest concern about my mod and I'm happy with the results. I found little to no lag between the phone and the box and music transferred just fine albeit it takes a good minute for the ATV3 to start and become available for Peer to Peer.
Until the Navitool unit arrives I'll be trying to figure out how to convert the ATV to connect to USB and perhaps add a battery reservoir for it to stay permanently powered so that bootup time can be improved to just a few seconds. My knowledge of circuitry is very rudimentary so if anyone has found any actual ATV mods with batteries please contact me.
Also on a side note: because the deal was too good to pass up I purchased the Chromecast and tested its wireless casting feature (rolled out just last week). Unfortunately the dongle seems to need a Wifi connection no matter what in order for it to work. There are workarounds for this but since the "pairing" process is apparently done via ultra sonic sound you would need to keep the dongle exposed for it to work properly (it will not penetrate the dashboard or glove box like wifi or bluetooth does). Since most of my ecosystem is Apple I won't explore this option further.
I need this, i almost regret buying this car the media interface is so terrible. My 2011 infinti blew it away!
My two cents……. What we all need is more distracted driving, more apps. Seriously, I have 7-8 different ways to listen to music or pod casts in my TLX. Your 2011 Infinity did not blow this away. I have driven the current Q-50 Sport for about 20 days total as a loaner for my 14 Altima, and it doesn't blow the Acura media interface away. I'm sorry, but are we needing to watch video and play video games as we drive??? I can stream Aha, stream my I-Tunes, or listen using my phone as an iPad device to cut down data streaming, listen to songs recorded on the HDD, listen to Satellite Radio, conventional Radio, etc. Mod up all you want, but please avoid making assertions that something sucks, when it offers 99% of those who are not adding smart TVs to our dashes all the music or news feeds or whatever we have the inclination to listen too. And BTW, the ELS system is superior to the Bose in the Infinity.
I agree that too much distraction is detrimental to the driver with possibly bad consequences. Also I find the TLX's console and media layout to be in par if not better than any competition out there albeit the time it takes to get used to it. But I never intended this thread to be a rant about brand comparisons much less about a philosophical debate on driver distractions.
I'm simply a DIYer coming from a Mustang who enjoys projects like these. When I started shopping for a replacement car I wanted my new car to address specific needs that I saw in when driving my old car. More specifically, I wanted to use Waze without a clutter in my dashboard, watch movies or shows on road trips without having a complicated array of accessories to attach my tablet, which also must be put away regularly in order to prevent breakins. I wanted to keep my stock look and functionality too so at first I looked for a car that offered what I wanted without having to make any modifications. In the end my solution has been to add Peer to Peer Airplay to a base TLX. Because I knew a lot of people might be interested in this mod I decided to open this thread. I did so also because I wanted feedback or even perhaps bounce ideas from other DIYers out there with suggestions to change my original plan. So far I've been alone in my endeavors.
I shared all this with also a disclaimer saying that I believe that this mod most definitely won't be a replacement for your navigation or car system and that the only reason I choose the base over the tech was for unique reasons and was in nowhere related to the cost of the car.
Criticisms and questions are always welcome! But as long as you show interest to the project and not to just diss or praise it. I'm the process of modifying the Apple TV to take USB power now not only to keep from shoving a power inverter in the dashboard but also because makes it easier to regulate its power and control drainage if I chose to permanently connect it to the battery. I'll post my findings soon.
Update 3: I haven't heard back from NavTool for a while but it's been a busy holiday season and I'm still considering my options on the ATV taking a full minute to boot up. Since this will be the last hurtle (and possibly the longest) this will be a two part update.
As I mentioned during my previous update not only I found that apps like Netflix may not work through peer to peer (at least not yet) but I was seriously bothered by the bootup time of the device when unplugged and plugged back in (to simulate the car’s power flow) which took a full minute. Overcoming this issue meant that the Apple TV needed a constant supply of power so to stay idle when not in use just like when used at home through a regular outlet. I had four options then:
1. Use it as is and let it take a full minute to boot up every time I start the car.
2. Directly connect it to the battery through the driver’s side fuse box and add a delay switch that cuts power after a certain number of hours.
3. Build a pass through battery that will simultaneously charge itself and power the Apple TV so that when the car is off, the battery would keep the box alive.
4. Give up the dream of airplay in the car and simply buy a $45 lightning to HDMI adapter.
Option 2 and 3 became the main topics of my research for several weeks.
Option 2 seemed like the most straightforward solution (and often the simplest answer is the best in my opinion) if I could install a power relay that would turn off say after 15 hours. This however raised concerns for the car battery. A typical drain for a car is about 50mA. The idle power consumption for the ATV was estimated at 66mA more than doubling the vampire drainage. That and the fact that Acuras apparently have a poor reputation on their stock batteries on top of not finding anyone online who dared to directly plug their ATVs to the car battery deterred me from Option 2.
Option 3 required more math. In a typical day commuting to and from work I would amass about 1-2 hours of driving and if I don’t go out that night the car would stay in the garage for 12-15 hours. The Apple TV consumes about 0.8Watts at any given time (idle or active) and all I needed was a battery that could charge at fast rate (preferably at a much faster rate) while the outflow remained consistently under 1W. To put it simply, if I was to drive my car for 1 hour and provided the cache battery with X Watts of power, this stored power needed to be enough to operate the ATV as well as maintain it for (ideally) 12-15 hours. In other words if the operating outflow was 0.8W I needed the inflow to be somewhere between 10-12W with a battery large enough store and capable enough to maintain both flows. The good news is that this is completely feasible… in theory at least.
The simplest way to test my theory was to use a large capacity battery pack made for charging smartphones and tablets found typically in a Best Buy or Amazon. I also had very specific requirements though:
- Pass through charging enabled: Many of the battery packs do not allow this feature and those who do rarely advertise it.
- Input capacity of 2A: Once again many packs don’t charge as fast as they charge back
- Output capacity of 1A: So to control the outflow in case it’s greater than the inflow.
The only battery pack I found to match these specs was the Limefuel L200X. Some of the first battery packs I considered were the ones capable of jumpstarting a car like the Powerall however none that I found could be charged at a 2A rate and that was unfortunate. A better solution may become available in the future but for the time being this may well be the only battery capable of doing what I want.
I purchased the Limefuel through a Stacksocial sale for $35 just yesterday and the Step Down DC voltage regulator for the ATV arrived over the weekend. I've been slowly converting the ATV with the voltage regulator to take USB power. Once the battery arrives in a week or two my test setup will simply connect the Apple TV to the TV (though the HDMI converter) while being powered via usb through the battery pack. The pack in turn will receive power from a 10W USB adapter (simulating car USB) which in turn will be plugged to a Belkin conserve energy outlet with a timer of 30 minutes. I would then run the Apple TV for 30 minutes before heading to work and 30 minutes after coming home to see if the percentage on the battery pack remained sustainable and the ATV booted quickly. Lastly I would try to find out what would happen if the battery was drained completely (car left aloof for a long time) and how it would recover when I put it back into service.
If the battery power is self sustainable, meaning I don't have to take it out on a monthly basis to fully charge it then we're good to go. If the battery gradually drains and cannot stay afloat in my day to day driving then I'll just repurpose the battery pack for my trips and perhaps revisit Option 2.
I'd love to see this done on my TLX. I'm also in NoVa area (Alexandria, VA). Perhaps you could help me out once you're done with the project. I do, too have the base TLX.
I'd love to see this done on my TLX. I'm also in NoVa area (Alexandria, VA). Perhaps you could help me out once you're done with the project. I do, too have the base TLX.
I'll be happy to help a TLX owner assuming that this project comes to fruition.
After my last post I've been tempted to just forgo the Apple TV and install a Lightning to AV adapter instead. Adding a LiPo battery to the equation imo adds a potential danger to the setup (granted that for a battery to be in danger the car's temp needs to be at 140F or above) not to mention reliability concerns in the long run. I really dislike having too many moving parts in my car which was my main reason why I chose the base model over the tech. The adapter could be fed through the center console's lighter socket for a clean look and use. The biggest thing however is that some of the apps that were not available through Peer to Peer like Plex and Netflix would be available in this setup...
I did have another project in mind for that center console when the time was right like adding a Qi charger or any other equivalent that will come with a future iPhone. I'm thinking that perhaps by then either Apple will have an Apple TV Dongle that I can use... I don't know
Still, for $35 on the battery this is well worth exploring. there's a good chance that the battery setup will not work because in real life 5Watts is never 5Watts.
I did have another project in mind for that center console when the time was right like adding a Qi charger or any other equivalent that will come with a future iPhone. I'm thinking that perhaps by then either Apple will have an Apple TV Dongle that I can use... I don't know
I was thinking the same thing! Of course, I don't own a TLX at the moment but have been considering getting one. I thought maybe one could mount a Qi charger under the upper phone tray but it looks like it's a tight clearance underneath when it slides in so that's probably a no go. That would be pretty cool though!
I kept staring at my open Apple TV last night, all the parts ready for stripping and soldering and I can't help shake off the idea of scrapping the Apple TV part of the project and simply use a lightning cable adapter for my smartphone mirroring. It's not that the Airplay mod is harder. The number of moving parts is acceptable too. It really is about function where the wired mirroring trumps wireless.
From the moment they were announced, they had me wondering why Apple and Android forced their Carplay and Android Drive to be tethered to a wire. While a little poignant I can see how the "physical" act of plugging your phone is more seamless than turning on Airplay in your phone every time you get into your car (and then probably plug it for power anyways).
This mod would be more useful say in a larger vehicle like a minivan with 2 or more people/devices. Between my wife and I however, I'm the only one with the apps and the grandfathered unlimited data to play Plex or Netflix on the road.
The other aspect is that Peer to Peer Airplay is not fully baked yet made obvious from my tests. It'd say it's 98% there. The current functionality is pretty acceptable I must say (all navigation apps work) but giving up watching videos on the go, even if it's an unpromised temporary setback, feels like a poor trade off for airplay in your car.
This begs me to consider Option 4 as the best possible option for right now. Even Steve Jobs bid his time to build the iPad I'm told, because the technology wasn't there yet. If and when Apple releases the ATV4 this year and/or Peer to Peer is more widely implemented by developers and Apple alike, I may be looking at a true 100% wireless smartphone mirroring device that I could add to my TLX say later in the year or more likely in a couple of years when iPhones come with built in wireless charging capabilities.
The Navtool module seems still far from arriving so no hurry to go either way. If anyone has any counter arguments by all means...
The greatest advantage of this device is that it's a no-brainer fast-booting(?) device that not only handles iOS but also apparently can handle Android. So if you have both OS between you and your family or want to have more flexibility when choosing your next phone because you go back and forth this is the solution for you. More so since the Chromecast (as I found) is not a viable option for your car anymore.
The disadvantage is that it is a router in itself so you won't be able to use your phone as a hotspot in your car without disconnecting to the kivic one's router. This isn't a huge deal for some but for me it eats away at future mod prospects and it was not a compromise I was willing to take. To put it simply I think the Kivic One is perhaps the ONLY solution for the Android users right now but otherwise I think it will outlive its usefulness in a year or two once wifi to wifi communication without a router becomes more popular.
And that's my main point actually. I chose the ATV because if Apple makes an Airplay dongle this year I can easily reshuffle my ATV to be useful elsewhere. It is my hope that Kivic "Two" will support Peer to Peer Airplay
I've been in the works trying to find a good compromise on my two choices (wired or wireless screen mirroring). While it complicates things more I'm considering using a "smart switch" that prioritizes one HDMI input over the other. This way I can keep both my Lightning to HDMI adapter (priority) and the ATV (not priority) plugged to the NavTool and have it both ways for those times when the back seat folks want to share their media. It kind of feels like overkill though, and my wife thinks that a wired version will be easier and we should just repurpose the ATV elsewhere.
The disadvantage is that it is a router in itself so you won't be able to use your phone as a hotspot in your car without disconnecting to the kivic one's router. This isn't a huge deal for some but for me it eats away at future mod prospects and it was not a compromise I was willing to take. To put it simply I think the Kivic One is perhaps the ONLY solution for the Android users right now but otherwise I think it will outlive its usefulness in a year or two once wifi to wifi communication without a router becomes more popular.
The Kivik one (rev 1.1 and higher) supports both station ("router") and p2p connectivity. However, I don't think this helps you with your desire to use your phone as a hotspot. Have you tested and confirmed that you can simultaneously use your phone as a WiFi hotspot and direct connect to the AppleTV? both are using the WiFi radio in your phone. At the very least I would expect poor streaming performance to the ATV while hotspot is in use, but I also suspect that it won't work at all. Please let me know, because this is a topic that interests me.
The Kivik one (rev 1.1 and higher) supports both station ("router") and p2p connectivity. However, I don't think this helps you with your desire to use your phone as a hotspot. Have you tested and confirmed that you can simultaneously use your phone as a WiFi hotspot and direct connect to the AppleTV? both are using the WiFi radio in your phone. At the very least I would expect poor streaming performance to the ATV while hotspot is in use, but I also suspect that it won't work at all. Please let me know, because this is a topic that interests me.
That's an excellent point and I can't believe I didn't test that. I'll check it this weekend and post my findings. If I can't hotspot while Peer to Peer Airplay-ing then my decision would be made for me. Also I wanted to test the Lightning to HDMI adapter to be sure it works with the radioshack HDMI to composite converter. Because the radioshack converter does not require an external power source and draws from the HDMI input alone I am hard pressed to think there's a breaking point where too many connectors or too long of a cable would keep it from working properly.
Rev 1.1's p2p looks interesting and in my observations Kivic will continue to mainly enhance the Android aspect since the demographic they're trying to please is mostly Samsung and LG owners. Makes me doubtful of their survival rate in the long run and it's likely they'll head into the likes of Cowon once Android Car and Carplay catches up in 3-4 years, but nonetheless I hope they do well and continue to find that niche that the big corporations can never fill.
The Kivik one (rev 1.1 and higher) supports both station ("router") and p2p connectivity. However, I don't think this helps you with your desire to use your phone as a hotspot. Have you tested and confirmed that you can simultaneously use your phone as a WiFi hotspot and direct connect to the AppleTV? both are using the WiFi radio in your phone. At the very least I would expect poor streaming performance to the ATV while hotspot is in use, but I also suspect that it won't work at all. Please let me know, because this is a topic that interests me.
As you suspected, hotspot and p2p airplay cannot coexist. p2p airplay uses specific frequencies both in the 2.4 and 5Ghz and i had hoped that the rest could be used by the hotspot but i knew it was far fetched from start.
The work around is to have your ATV pickup your hotspot and your phone become the router and conduit for regular Airplay. It's not a big deal but if you were p2p airplay-ing already and you needed to hotspot someone, you would have to break the connection first and wait for the ATV to pickup your hotspot... a bit of a hassle.
Now I'm more or less poised to have tethered mirroring using the Apple HDMI adapter, and I've been looking for parts that would replace the center dash lighter socket with an USB socket for a more factory look. Also I found a 2 port smart switch that prioritizes one input over the other in case I want to add the ATV in there after all. This way then I would prioritize the tethered mirroring for me and if I have passengers who want to airplay I would just unplug my phone and let them do it via Airplay (with my hostpot) or p2p Airplay.
Adding a smart switch is appealing even without the ATV if you manage to add other feeds like a front facing camera, a weather dashboard or any raspberry pi project that works as default if your phone is not connected. Obviously everything needs to be tested.
Update 4: This will be my last update before I embark on the mod itself. The navtool part hasn't arrived yet and frankly I'm concerned that they won't deliver. Push comes to shove I'll have my money back but I do hope they're good on their word about the module being TLX ready sometime in January (I'm thinking probably it'll be February or even March now).
Just as a quick recap: My original goal was to mirror the screen of my iPhone in the upper dashboard of my base 2.4L mainly for Waze but also for Plex or Netflix during road trips. I had intended to modify an Apple TV (2013) for this purpose so that I could use their recently unveiled "P2P" Airplay mode which required no WiFi. However I found that the software was buggy (it worked on the navigation apps but nothing else) so I fell back to tethering my smartphone mirroring through an AV adapter. Still because I didn't want to lose the ability to wireless mirror my screen I toyed with a Startech automatic HDMI switch which if setup properly would have allowed me to have both seamless tethered and untethered screen mirroring. I did have concerns about the switch working when connected to the Radioshack composite converter and sadly they proved to be valid in my tests.
I am now done testing and the my current setup is something like this:
Navitool video module -> Radioshack composite converter -> short HDMI cable -> Apple AV adapter.
I plan to pass the lightning end through the center console. Also the USB end of the Navitool module would be used to internally power the Apple Adapter.
Also to keep things neat I'm hoping to hardwire the lightning end of the Av adapter to a round USB socket that will actually replace the lighter socket in the center console so I don't have to drill any holes and makes the setup look more stock. This way I can also extend the connection with any lightning cable of choice and minimize any sort of damage I may cause by pulling the cable too hard. I still need to test this bit but worst case scenario the AV adapter hides under the center console so no biggie.
I'll definitely have more than words once I'm done. Pictures and hopefully a video or two to demonstrate my setup but until then I hope you've found some inspiration in my efforts. Wish me luck!
I'll definitely have more than words once I'm done. Pictures and hopefully a video or two to demonstrate my setup but until then I hope you've found some inspiration in my efforts. Wish me luck!
Looking forward to hearing of your success with this project. I'll be watching with fingers crossed!
Did you see that they are going to have a HDMI interface for the ILX?]
This is the same system that's in the 2014/5 Civic EX. I was going to suggest using the HDMI connector from that car (located next to USB & power ahead under the center stack).
The two videos are certainly interesting. Particularly the ILX, it tells me that there's an add-on module that could very much replace all of the parts I've been trying to put together. My take is to take all this with a grain of salt for the TLX and I'll explain why.
First: the OEM module certainly requires the stereo to have an updated software to be recognized as an additional input. Simply because the connections are the same it does not guarantee that the stereo have the same software and will be recognized immediately.
Second: Even if the stereo are the same it is evident to me that it will have limited mirroring connectivity. Perhaps this is not so evident in the videos but it seemed to me that everything had to be funneled through the Hondalink/Acuralink apps (thus no Waze, Netflix, Safari, etc). While the ILX featurette reasonably implies that you'll be able to mirror a map app I would be hard pressed to think that they'll allow Safari or a video app to do the same and less so when the car is moving. There are liability/legality concerns here. Just like auto makers were never allowed to have a fully working DVD player on the dashboard I doubt Acura will be allowed to have full video capabilities now. At least not factory.
In other words, not sure if it will work but if it does most likely limited functionality.
Nonetheless, particularly with the ILX, it is highly probable that the module will work with the TLX and dealers may even consider installing it for you if you know what you're asking for. With the dawn of Carplay and Android Auto I wouldn't put it past Acura to start selling an HDMI kit for installation (which most likely would require flashing the stereo) but even then I would ask to see how the mirroring works, its restrictions, and other details before plunging into the mod. I'll have to read more about it, find the related part number and dig a little bit on past Honda mods (most likely Civic owners) to see what has been done. for the moment I'll stick with my current setup.
Completely understand and it's my feeing, having used both systems, that they are probably based on completely different platforms. However, my post was less about the system in the Civic (and '16 ILX) itself but that there is a physical HDMI connection and associated HW that has a nice flip-up door and the same lettering as is already in the console of the TLX. It might be cleaner than what you are currently looking to add to the center console.
Here's a link to a vendor (Majestic Honda) that I've had great luck with over the years and a parts diagram...
Completely understand and it's my feeing, having used both systems, that they are probably based on completely different platforms. However, my post was less about the system in the Civic (and '16 ILX) itself but that there is a physical HDMI connection and associated HW that has a nice flip-up door and the same lettering as is already in the console of the TLX. It might be cleaner than what you are currently looking to add to the center console.
Here's a link to a vendor (Majestic Honda) that I've had great luck with over the years and a parts diagram...
The stuff you'd need is shown in the lower right of the diagram.
I'm assuming here that you meant I could install the HDMI port here. This is clever and I hadn't thought of that. Actually I was eying at the TLX USB port for that reason. An HDMI port would definitely be more universal, allowing future mods be that the ATV or even an AV adapter for Android phones. Still, I'm leaning for the USB version because the HDMI connection cannot charge the device (thus the Apple adapter comes with a female lightning port as well as a female HDMI port). What I was hoping to was to "hide" the fully connected apple lightning to AV adapter (with HDMI and lightning power) behind the console and not expose it like the videos have shown. Then I would extend the head of the adapter to a USB socket which I will use to plug any lightning cable of my choice. This way I don't have to deal with two cables in my center console.
I haven't been able to make up my mind about the socket mainly because I don't know if this will work. If it does, the Acura part would be most OEM option but purchasing the socket will mean I'll also have to buy the proprietary plug-in cable that connects to it since I doubt I'll be able to solder the Apple adapter directly to the socket. That and the fact that the cutout for the USB port might be different from the lighter socket means this would be a costly experiment.
To minimize my testing cost I purchased a lightning extension cable (8pin female to male) which I'll use to test whether the Apple adapter can indeed be extended. If it works then I'll decide on the socket of my choice, solder the extension cable to make a female 8pin to female USB type A "bridge." I'll test this again with my dedicated car lightning cable and see that it charges and mirrors. If all goes well I should have completed my tests by the time the Navtool arrives.
Awesome write up here and love all the detail you have provided. I have been doing a lot of research myself on this topic and came up with the exact same idea you did.
Navtool ---> Component to HDMI converter ---> Apple TV
I tried my apple tv peer-2-peer connection this weekend to ensure the stuff I was reading about on the internet was actually possible. I am ordering the navtool today for my 2012 MDX.
I have not researched much into powering the Apple TV as of yet but the idea to power it using the provided USB on the Navtool is a great idea. Where did you find information on how to do this?
I understand your concern with the minute it takes to power up the Apple TV and get the iphone connected but I would like to try this first and see if it really bothers me. If in fact it does, or I can not figure out how to power the Apple TV, then I will also backtrack my wireless dreams to the Lightning Digital AV Adapter.
To get a little ahead of the game I took my dash apart this past weekend, just to see how hard it was going to be. It was actually quite easy and painless.
My main reasoning to pursue this project is because the old built in navigation systems are a joke. The are painful to interact with, impossible to look destinations up on, and typically don't even find the preferred/fastest route. So then I just whip my phone out and use that, counterproductive when I already have a giant nav screen right there, in front of me.
Awesome write up here and love all the detail you have provided. I have been doing a lot of research myself on this topic and came up with the exact same idea you did.
Navtool ---> Component to HDMI converter ---> Apple TV
I tried my apple tv peer-2-peer connection this weekend to ensure the stuff I was reading about on the internet was actually possible. I am ordering the navtool today for my 2012 MDX.
I have not researched much into powering the Apple TV as of yet but the idea to power it using the provided USB on the Navtool is a great idea. Where did you find information on how to do this?
I understand your concern with the minute it takes to power up the Apple TV and get the iphone connected but I would like to try this first and see if it really bothers me. If in fact it does, or I can not figure out how to power the Apple TV, then I will also backtrack my wireless dreams to the Lightning Digital AV Adapter.
To get a little ahead of the game I took my dash apart this past weekend, just to see how hard it was going to be. It was actually quite easy and painless.
My main reasoning to pursue this project is because the old built in navigation systems are a joke. The are painful to interact with, impossible to look destinations up on, and typically don't even find the preferred/fastest route. So then I just whip my phone out and use that, counterproductive when I already have a giant nav screen right there, in front of me.
I've posted my findings in subsequent posts and although I'm still inclined towards the adapter your mod should work just fine.
There are two ways to go about powering your Apple TV in your car one being the power inverter and the other modifying the ATV with a DC to DC step down converter to run on an USB cable. The former obviously takes a lot of space (may not fit behind the dash), runs on an internal fan (loud), and you're basically converting DC to AC and then back to DC (inefficient), it is however reversible unlike the ATV mod. However if you're comfortable with soldering (which I assume you are since you take your own dashboard apart) I encourage you to do the mod. The step down converter shouldn't cost more than $5-10 and if you end up taking it back out you can still use it using a USB adapter.
Good luck! I'm still waiting for my NavTool module due that they're delayed in developing it for the TLX but I can't wait to have this done myself.
Just to let you know, I sent Navtool an inquiry about my setup and I wanted to know if they thought what I was planning on doing was the optimal way to mirror my screen. They didn't really send back any useful information except that they will be developing a module with an HDMI adapter as opposed to the composite and component adapters. Hopefully this will be included in your TLX module once it is released.
Just to let you know, I sent Navtool an inquiry about my setup and I wanted to know if they thought what I was planning on doing was the optimal way to mirror my screen. They didn't really send back any useful information except that they will be developing a module with an HDMI adapter as opposed to the composite and component adapters. Hopefully this will be included in your TLX module once it is released.
I won't be holding my breath for these guys. They've been making promises since all the way back in December and the release date is pushed further and further every time I call them. I looked them up a bit and I found they're a small shop in NY like many of them are and they can't keep up with the demand and the volume of new car models coming out each year. They have tons of complaints about them not delivering what they promised and getting a refund was near impossible.
At one point I became impatient and contacted another brand/shop in NJ only to find they were pretty much in the same boat. In fact they were hoping I lived near so I could drop by and develop the new module based on my car. It's been a couple of hectic months at work so I wouldn't have had the time to install the module anyways... so I'm patiently waiting for the time being. They're small but from what I can tell they've been in business for a while and you can find actual products even find happy buyers out there as well. Plus they should have the older modules available already unlike stuck in development limbo like my TLX module is so I don't think you'll have any issues.
I had it with them back in May and had them cancel my order. Things got a little rough around the edges when they stopped responding to my calls and hadn't seen a refund well into June. Luckily I made the purchase with my Amex otherwise I might never had gotten my money back.
I'd check back on them down the road, like next year down. Their website is incredibly unmaintained and while I'm sure they know what they're doing when making these modules they certainly lack the manpower to get this to production. For 7 months they kept saying next month. At least when I talked to the Naviks folks they told me straight out they needed a test car.
I dont plan on quitting this project yet but its obvious now that it will take some time.
For what it's worth, I was on NavTool's site today just checking out their products and I noticed that the TLX was listed but it just took you to the TSX page when clicked. I had the online chat window pop up and I asked about the availability of a TLX product and the salesperson said they hoped to have a model by the end of summer.
Hey how did you get to this mode? I'd like to replicate it. This infers also that the OEM software is already HDMI ready and all it needs is the right cable.
Hey how did you get to this mode? I'd like to replicate it. This infers also that the OEM software is already HDMI ready and all it needs is the right cable.
Yes, please post details of how you got to this screen. Is this on a TLX or another car (MDX, ILX, etc.)?
You're insinuating that if you download the $60 app the APP portion should automatically populate between the trip and clock/wallpaper when the car and the phone/app sync. I think it's more likely that APP mode would need to be "enabled" under the factory settings so that it looks for that factory HDMI cable. So if you didn't have that HDMI cable it would pop that message...
It is more likely that the app will have to be downloaded to make this work yes but I would put my money on the HDMI cable first...
12-08-2014, 01:59 PM
