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I've been helped by a number of users for installing my aftermarket amp/sub. I've wired everything up and I just need a few last bits of advice before I'm good to go. So here's my pics to help you see what I've done... does everything look ok? For the remote wire I've tapped into the one white wire, I've tried the purple wire and I've tried another white wire with what looked like paint markings on it.... what am I doing wrong?? My amp isn't getting any power and I've checked the fuses in it...
i see you used the positaps--did your order them or get them somewhere..i couldn't find them at any of my local stores. do you have nav or non nav? and which year.. also.. have you tried running the remote straight to your fuse box to see if that is the issue..
btw..i recently regrounded my wires to the roof of my rear deck..and i've been having issues.. i don't know if its as good as the floor of the trunk.. just my two cents.. but i am NO expert.. lol.. either way it should be enough to power up..
also..did you fuse your power wire at the battery? make sure you do that..this won't stop it from turning on..but it will turn it off incase of a fire
I ordered the positaps from Crutchfield. They're a huge rip off, I only got 6 for $9, but it made tapping my wires much easier and I didn't have to fully cut them or anything.
I have a 2011 base Acura TSX. No nav. I have not tried running it to the fuse box but that's going to be my next move. I didn't want that popping sound I've heard people complain about. I will try fuse #18. I have a fuse tap on the way from eBay. Should be here on Saturday.
Maybe I will try regrounding to the floor before I rerun the remote wire.
I did fuse my amp at the battery. Do my pictures look ok? I have solid contact with the battery. I have solid contact with what I thought was a good ground. The white wire on my input cluster doesn't seem to be the remote...
Thanks for your response! I will try to reground as my next attempt to get this thing to work.
okay..just a random question..but since your remote is from your headunit..did you turn your headunit on when doing this? not sure if this will make a difference but from my understanding that's how it works.. and your connections looked fine to me..but like i said..not an expert by any means
I would turn my car fully on and play music to test and it never turned the amp on. Hmmm interesting. Maybe I do need to try a new ground. I will try that after work.
For my remote I ran a wire to the driver's side fuse box and tapped into the wiper fuse. How did you wire the rest of the cables? Like the + and - etc.
I tapped the purple because in one of the dropbox links you gave out in a thread noted that the remote 12v is plug 24. The purple wire in my cluster has a 24 above it.
I did try that white wire in the lower right of my third photo but it didn't seem to work. perhaps I'll try again.
For other + and - wires I tapped into the rear deck speakers. Left was yellow and brown (positive, negative) and right was blue and orange (positive, negative). I ran my LOC into my amp making sure I kept left and right aligned.
Only other + - wires would be going from the amp into the sub and that's pretty straight forward.
It works!!! Thank you all for your help! I used the white wire that's in the far right in my picture above. Now I just need to tune it. It's not sounding quite right yet. Perhaps I do need to upgrade my LOC
The signal that's being pushed out to the rear deck speakers is equalized right? I'm sure it's not pushing out 25Hz which is what my aftermarket sub is rated for. If I were to get this LOC would it allow my aftermarket sub to play those frequencies?
Did you have to reground.. Or was it just the remote.. Was the b24 the correct one ? I know u mentioned you tried b24 before.. What did you do differently this time that it worked if this was the issue..
Side note.. Since you got to the stock amp.. You could take the signal preamp.. Because the amp does processing and gets rid of sound it doesn't think our stock speakers can handle
Also..you can try the preamp sub signal instead.. Also adjust sub off headunit..set gain on your amp.. Make sure you have a good ground.. And like previously mentioned.. When I went from 8 to 4 gauge there was a noticeable difference.. In reference to it not sounding right just yet
I did not reground it, I just twisted harder to tap the b24 wire. I thought I had tried it before but maybe I didn't have a good enough connection.
I may try to take preamp signals because this aftermarket amp really is just taking the signal that gets sent to the rear deck speakers and amplifying it. I'm getting no additional frequencies so it sounds like the bass is really high but the SUB BASS which I love is not there at all... very frustrating this isn't as easy as my last car
The carpet in my car is all bent now so I just seem to make things worse. I may take a few days off and try to tackle this again this weekend.
The 2nd Gen TSX does not have a switched 12 volt source on any of the factory amp connectors. You need to use signal sensing or run a wire to the fuse block. My amp bypass harness for the 2nd Gen uses a circuit to generate a proper 12 volt remote signal from the MUTE and SW signals.
The Switched 12 V of the 2. Gen TSX is switched about the ignition lock. Not over the Radio.
To find at the Amplifier by the White or Yellow Wire. Check it out with Measuring instrument.
At my car (CW1 EU-Accord 2014) it was the white Wire PIN 7 (18PIN Connector Amplifier)
The Switched 12 V of the 2. Gen TSX is switched about the ignition lock. Not over the Radio.
To find at the Amplifier by the White or Yellow Wire. Check it out with Measuring instrument.
At my car (CW1 EU-Accord 2014) it was the white Wire PIN 7 (18PIN Connector Amplifier)
That's not a true switched 12 volt line, it's a hi impedance switching signal and can't supply any amount of current. You also have to mind the MUTE signal.
Even the name in the switch plan is a switched B (SWD B) PIN B3 on the plan. Only the name PIN and the arrangement in stecker has reflecting-turned.
And over again - I talk here from my EU-Accord of 2014
Take thus measuring instrument and examine. At least this B reaches for the L.O.C. and to switch on of the amplifier
At my car (CW1 EU-Accord 2014) it was the white Wire PIN 7 (18PIN Connector Amplifier)
Sorry - it was PIN 12 at The Plug ( 28PIN Connector Amplifier)
If i look at the Amplifier there was it the PIN B3 like in the Picture of the Plan.
The Numbers at the Plug and the Plan are not the same.
It looks like a mirror
You have ELS.
The audio adjustments take place in the factory amp not the HU, you can't use any signals from the HU.
The SW12 and MUTE signals are control signals not voltage sources, you can't use them to switch an amp on.
My Premium audio adapter uses a circuit and the hot always line to generate a 12 volt remote signal. My ELS preamp also had that circuit.
Put the covers back on your amp, tap the factory sub line, run a wire to the fuse box for remote and your good.
You have ELS. The audio adjustments take place in the factory amp not the HU, you can't use any signals from the HU. The SW12 and MUTE signals are control signals not voltage sources, you can't use them to switch an amp on. My Premium audio adapter uses a circuit and the hot always line to generate a 12 volt remote signal. <strong>My ELS preamp also had that circuit.</strong> Put the covers back on your amp, tap the factory sub line, run a wire to the fuse box for remote and your good.
Sorry for going off topic. Still no plans on making a prod run of these right? </p>
I know - thats because i take the question about the Amplifier
Put the covers back on your amp
The Pictures are not from my amplifier
run a wire to the fuse box for remote and your good
I dont need a Remote. personal
I need a LOW level input for my second ext. amplifier of the front boxes and the Subwoofer.
to see how in the Russian pictures it has already created somebody to measure directly on platine a signal. I thought they could help me. thanks.
While you can add RCAs to any amp it's not a good thing to do. In the case of the ELS one mistake and you out $1800 for a new amp. You will gain very little by doing this and you risk damage to your amp and ground loop issues. Not sure why you are having problems installing a LOC and tapping an ACC fuse.
thanks for your statement.
I would like to connect directly Because would be cleaner signal and undistorted.
the amplifier is not so expensive. if 2 pieces have to lie here. both from polen for 20 €. and they work.
I have radio (HU) also twice. thus wass should happen. has even asked who can help me. where I would have to connect it.
with rest already manage I so far.
The last time I checked the factory ELS amp cost $1600 from the dealer. Not sure what amp you are referring to. Not sure why you think tapping into the signal before the PAL007 chips would yield an undistorted signal. At best you would only eliminate the Crossover distortion from the output chips which pales in comparison with the distortion that the A/D and D/A conversions introduce. Not to mention the crazy frequency shaping of the ELS DSP section. Your stuck with the DSP and the EQ because it is part of the ELS system. Without it you will have no control of the audio at all. Your doing a lot of work for basically no gain in SQ.
Thanks for the information. the sound setting should already be possible to continue on the OEM radio. obviously that is probably nothing. I will continue to use my converter and is good. Thank you. I bought in Poland from aftermarket OEM amplifier. and in the German forums. of users who have their old expanded for new versions aftemarket
I saw your PM, I realy don't know what audio systems are in the non US market cars. In the US the ELS system has the door tweeter and front speaker on the same output. The Premium system has the tweeters run directly off the factory amp. What does it say on the actual radio, Premium of ELS? Do you have a 24 pin or 28 pin connector at the factory amp? Can you post some pictures of what you have? Car model Ids don't mean a thing to me.
It's an 28 PIN Connector Amp. and an Premium Audio System Radio
At my car the Tweeter and front Door Speakers are connected AT the Same wires. The Tweeter has 6 Ohm and the door Speakers 2 Ohm. Thats Around about 1,5 Ohm for the Amp.
The door Speakers at the back had 2 Ohm at every Site.
The Sub at the right Side of the Trunk has 2 Ohm.
And i have Test it. On contact B3 from the Amp. are 12v switched by Key on ACC. So there i can Switch on my Second amp if i want. currently he is connected via the Hi / Low Converter. Thats The best.
You have the ELS (digital) system, In the states the 2nd gen TSX (euro accord) came with a base audio system (Honda's have it and call it Premium) and the Tech package (ELS). There is no way to get a better signal from the ELS (digital) system, sorry. I did make a pre amp to replace the ELS amp but I have no plans to make anymore. I do make an adapter/harness for the base system but it will not work with your system.
So, in the states you have, Honda Standard, Honda Premium = (Acura TSX Base) and Acura ELS (Acura Premium) from 2009.
Many thanks for your answer. I'll leave everything and continue to work with Hi / Low converters. My system runs yes. Either way or replacement of the complete HU. but I like the OEM style.
I am now also trying to install an aftermarket 5 channels amplifier. I want to give a try to OEM harnes (output from OEM amp) to main distribution. I mean i want to make some connections from my new amplifier to OEM harnes which is used to get signals from OEM amp and send them to the OEM speakers. I will use some good tapping connectors to tap my new amp ouput signals to the OEM speakers. So it make possible to send sound to the OEM speakers from my new amp. So summarizing: wanna use the oem wiring to carry sound to all speakers.. Is it possible?
I have allready removed properlymy oem amp and sub. Also want to replace front door speakers. But wiring from my new amp to the door speakers is very very difficult.. At least it seems very much difficult. I just cannot figur it out how to get the wires in the door.... So this is the reason why i want to use the allready installed and good working OEM wiring and harness to implement my new amp, sub and speakers.
You need a wiring schematic from the output section off your OEM amp as the wiring is probably a different schematic going to the input section of your amp from your head unit. Yes I know it sounds ludicrous that they would stay consistent with wiring colors but they often don't.
hey i was wondering if you have a pik of the groumet you pass you power cable thru and the location exactly. I have a 2011 acura tsx wit non navigation
08-05-2014, 06:15 PM
