julius071

Has anyone shaved their rear fender lip instead of rolling? Are our rear fender double walls or single walls? Should I be worried about separated/splitting fenders with the body? Reason why I want to shave instead of rolling is chipping paint, I want zero pulling and more clearance than rolling. I’ve read that dropped/lowered/slammed thread and people claim they have shaved rear fenders but didnt go into details how much they cut. Please let me know! Trying to fit 19x10.5 +18 wrapped with 235/35/19

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I think you're misinformed.
Shaving involves CUTTING. you absolutely are going to fuck up paint by shaving.
PLUS, the only thing that gets shaved is a tab that sticks out. this tab holds the plastic fender to the metal fender with a screw.


the ONLY way to fit wheels are by trial and error.
Raise the coilovers. put the wheels on. find where it's rubbing and take the appropriate actions to prevent rubbing. whether that be rolling fenders, pulling fenders, and or cutting/shaving the tab.

julius071

Yes, I am being misinformed by not be provided enough information. Please explain how cutting will fuck up paint versus rolling? I haven't done rolling myself but reading information on this forum, there will be a slight pulling. If shaving that tab, how would I attach the plastic fender back to that removed tab?

Here is an example of a Lexus GS shaved rear fender then primered and painted:



How would I achieve no pulling at rear fenders?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

why did they prime and paint the fender? paint most likely chipped when cutting.

the tab- you dont completely remove it. it's just shaven down enough not to rub. thus why you need to test fit and and see where it's rubbing.
If you look at the fender, you'll see that it's part way rolled already.

it's a lot of back and fourth. test fit. cut/roll/pull. test fit. cut/roll/pull even more. test fit.
there's no right or wrong way to do it. the ultimate goal is to fit wheels. You do whatever you can to achieve that goal.

AND if it's your first time, you'll mess up somewhere. one of my fenders has a bacon wavy look to it. yep, that was the first fender I started on, until I got the hang of it.

julius071

Reason to prime and paint the fender is because when the rear fender is shaved, the fender is exposed to rust so prime and paint is rust prevention. How do we chip the paint when cutting?

Ahh okay, I pictured that tab is fully shaved off.

I ain't doing my fenders myself, trusting experience people to do it instead. Is there a risk of pulling when rolling?

xtcnrice

I think you guys are misunderstanding each other. You're both right in your own ways.

Shaving the fender will result in a better result in the long term. Reason being is, at the part you CUT, you already fucked up the paint, so you need to sand it, prime it, paint that area to resolve the exposed metal. If done right, you might not need to perform the sand/prime/paint on the areas of the fender that are visible from the outside.

This is better long term, because with fender rolling and pulling, you're flattening/stressing/manipulating metal with hardened paint on it. Yes you can use a heat gun (and you really should be), but the probability of it cracking on you is not negligible. In fact, even if it doesn't crack on you now, it may crack on you later.

So the reason that shaving is so called better, is because you've already addressed the ruining of the paint, whereas in 99% of fender ROLLING/PULLING scenarios, no one bothers to sand/re-prime/re-paint immediately after, leading it to eventually crack on you later.

julius071

Just trying to understand what you are talking about.

1) The fender lip cut is where the paint will chip, at that cut, which is correct thus we need to sand the remaining fender lip (if any) smooth then prime and paint. Need to mount the wheels to see how much exactly we need to shave off and hopefully not a full shave.

2) You are correct on that theory on stressing/manipulating metal in regards on cracking paint.

3) I couldn't say this better on what you said "So the reason that shaving is so called better, is because you've already addressed the ruining of the paint, whereas in 99% of fender ROLLING/PULLING scenarios, no one bothers to sand/re-prime/re-paint immediately after, leading it to eventually crack on you later."

Now the question in hand right now is if the rear fenders are double or single walls. The profile of the rear fender is different from that attached GS rear fender. Hmmm snip snip time.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I have seen a 3G with shaved rear fenders...it took all structural rigidity out of them and they were wavy as fuck...that is WITH having left a 1/4" section of horizontal metal on the inside.
Roll...don't reinvent the fender rolling wheel here.

TacoBello

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I've rolled enough fenders to refuse to ever roll any more fenders...
unless it's a friend and they put me in a pinch and get me to agree to do it even though I warn against it.

julius071

Yes, I understand it will take our structural rigidity away IF the quarter panel got hit in any way. What I don't understand is how shaving the fender lip can be "wavy as fuck" on its own? Is it during the shave process? Please advised.

I am not reinventing the fender rolling wheel here, I am seeking other options (any maybe better options) rather than fender rolling maybe out weighing pros and cons, that is it.

julius071

Process at the factory maybe its rust inhibitor?

Welp going to a shop that has great reputation and will back up their work would be great instead of going to the "one-hit-wonder, I've done it 100 times!" type of people.

We shall see what I do decide.

julius071

So its pretty clear that ya'll oppose to even touching the fenders?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

They were physically wavy...he could move them by hand.
Not opposed, rolling is tried and true...trimming can be done too with some inherent mentioned risks.
It's your car so I have absolutely no real stake in what happens to it.
You asked a question, I answered it based on my own experience.

TacoBello

I won't even roll fenders here. I've seen too many times were micro cracks in the paint occur, and the following year there's rust. You're lucky you don't have to deal with salt on your roads, RS143. Or do you, from the ocean? I'm land locked, so I have no idea what impacts the ocean has on cars.

I've heard you have to carefully heat the paint to make it a bit malleable when rolling, but even then, I've seen problems occur. How much heat? how close? for how long? If it was just the front fenders, I'd maybe consider it. But you can't just replace a rear fender on our cars. And once that cancer is there, man, it's not cheap to get rid of it. And being older cars now, likely not even worth it unless it's a show car.

Like Julius said, he'd get a legit shop to do it- the thing is trying to find a shop that will do it. Most won't because of the inherent risk and them not wanting to then lose money on having to fix it.

I'm against it- but there are a number of people (I believe) who are for it and likely haven't had issues. By the end of the day, I guess it really depends on your environment and how well the work was actually done.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, near the beach you can get rust but nothing like what you guys see.
I have yet to be able to roll a fender without cracking paint...I've used a heat gun on both settings and a temp gun to get to the right temp...
best bet is not to touch...
although judging by the air ride picture...OP is going aggressive.

julius071