96-98 3.2 tl NSX bolton brake upgrade
10-17-2007, 02:54 AM
#41
Instructor
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Bit of a thread jump/hack but the Legend 2 piston calipers are a direct bolt on for the Gen2 TL-CL calipers. You just swap them Left for Right from their intended position to put the bleeder valve at the top. Other than that- bolt it to the TL brackets with TL brake pads
Awesome improvement- and the SS lines are direct bolt up too!
Avail at kragen online~ 70 per side
Awesome improvement- and the SS lines are direct bolt up too!
Avail at kragen online~ 70 per side
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07-02-2008, 09:53 AM
#42
That's interesting.
I use the Magnum cross drilled rotors and Autozone Performance Friction pads on my 2.5 TL and 3.2TL. I get the rotors form gforcebrakes on ebay for $130 bucks including shipping. They have the coating on the hat in whatever color that they have that you want. Pads for $140. Gforcebrakes also have the stainless steel brake lines available.
This allows the TL's to stop a lot quicker without rotor warp.
I use the Magnum cross drilled rotors and Autozone Performance Friction pads on my 2.5 TL and 3.2TL. I get the rotors form gforcebrakes on ebay for $130 bucks including shipping. They have the coating on the hat in whatever color that they have that you want. Pads for $140. Gforcebrakes also have the stainless steel brake lines available.
This allows the TL's to stop a lot quicker without rotor warp.
07-02-2008, 10:08 AM
#43
B A N N E D
Thread Starter
stainless lines are trash for a street car. Ive put 3 sets of them on this tl of mine in the last 4 years. Almost routinely each year they are leaking at the fitting and need replacement. Theres a reason why cars dont come stock with them, even ferarris. Because its a perishible item. Its going to be junk in no time. And id rather have a squishy pedal (hardly a difference with stock vs stainless imo), then have the hose blow out and have no brakes at all and brake fluid all over my near 1000 dollar each wheels.
The skinnier brake rotor from any other model besides the gs legend coupe are garbage. Ive used project mu, brembo, powerslot, powerstop, aem, neuspeed, and all of them sucked just the same. The larger legend rotor is ALL YOU NEED. I drive this car just as hard if not harder than anyone else. You do not need more brakes. Brakes are all set up on weight and momentum. This chassis even with a built up engine is slow, you dont have enough power to outweigh stock nsx brakes. And the weight is not much either compared to what the nsx are rated for. Basically, you take a caliper designed to stop a car 3x the weight of your car, its going to stop 3x quicker. But there is a point for diminishing return. Too much just makes it lock up and suck weiners.
Slotted rotors eat the pads. Unless you are planning on running the monaco gp, you have no need for that shit. It will just lady bic 1/16 inch of your pads each time they cross a slot. and half the places cant turn them if they happen to get a small hot spot on them.
Cross drilled rotors do the same as the slotted, but now have the added hole through them so they crack
************************post merged************************
any suggestions i give you guys is based off my personal experiance. Id rather tell you how to solve the problem as opposed to giving you options to put a bandaid on it.
Bottom line is, ive used every brake kit there is for a type r integra. Which is the same brakes as a legend. which also fit an nsx. Therefore these particular brakes are my specialty. Ive used 2500 dollar aem cooltech 13 inch 911 turbo big brake kit on the old type r stuff i had. They still used a thin rotor like anything besides the legend gs has. They also were trashed in no time. Bottom line, the weight of the car, and thickness of the rotor are terrible combo. Its too heavy for those little brakes, and is not suitable for the higher temps they get from being pressed harder to slow it down. Also you need to keep in mind a car that puts your head into the window when you tap the brakes does not sell so they set it up a little underbraked from the factory
The skinnier brake rotor from any other model besides the gs legend coupe are garbage. Ive used project mu, brembo, powerslot, powerstop, aem, neuspeed, and all of them sucked just the same. The larger legend rotor is ALL YOU NEED. I drive this car just as hard if not harder than anyone else. You do not need more brakes. Brakes are all set up on weight and momentum. This chassis even with a built up engine is slow, you dont have enough power to outweigh stock nsx brakes. And the weight is not much either compared to what the nsx are rated for. Basically, you take a caliper designed to stop a car 3x the weight of your car, its going to stop 3x quicker. But there is a point for diminishing return. Too much just makes it lock up and suck weiners.
Slotted rotors eat the pads. Unless you are planning on running the monaco gp, you have no need for that shit. It will just lady bic 1/16 inch of your pads each time they cross a slot. and half the places cant turn them if they happen to get a small hot spot on them.
Cross drilled rotors do the same as the slotted, but now have the added hole through them so they crack
************************post merged************************
any suggestions i give you guys is based off my personal experiance. Id rather tell you how to solve the problem as opposed to giving you options to put a bandaid on it.
Bottom line is, ive used every brake kit there is for a type r integra. Which is the same brakes as a legend. which also fit an nsx. Therefore these particular brakes are my specialty. Ive used 2500 dollar aem cooltech 13 inch 911 turbo big brake kit on the old type r stuff i had. They still used a thin rotor like anything besides the legend gs has. They also were trashed in no time. Bottom line, the weight of the car, and thickness of the rotor are terrible combo. Its too heavy for those little brakes, and is not suitable for the higher temps they get from being pressed harder to slow it down. Also you need to keep in mind a car that puts your head into the window when you tap the brakes does not sell so they set it up a little underbraked from the factory
07-02-2008, 10:15 AM
#44
B A N N E D
Thread Starter
<man this forum really needs to use a template that allows you to edit posts beyond 5 minutes out. Honestly its really sub par as far as every other forum i go to with options in the editing>
add to that post
any suggestions i give you guys is based off my personal experiance. Id rather tell you how to solve the problem as opposed to giving you options to put a bandaid on it.
Bottom line is, ive used every brake kit there is for a type r integra. Which is the same brakes as a legend. which also fit an nsx. Therefore these particular brakes are my specialty. Ive used 2500 dollar aem cooltech 13 inch 911 turbo big brake kit on the old type r stuff i had. They still used a thin rotor like anything besides the legend gs has. They also were trashed in no time. Bottom line, the weight of the car, and thickness of the rotor are terrible combo. Its too heavy for those little brakes, and is not suitable for the higher temps they get from being pressed harder to slow it down. Also you need to keep in mind a car that puts your head into the window when you tap the brakes does not sell so they set it up a little underbraked from the factory
add to that post
any suggestions i give you guys is based off my personal experiance. Id rather tell you how to solve the problem as opposed to giving you options to put a bandaid on it.
Bottom line is, ive used every brake kit there is for a type r integra. Which is the same brakes as a legend. which also fit an nsx. Therefore these particular brakes are my specialty. Ive used 2500 dollar aem cooltech 13 inch 911 turbo big brake kit on the old type r stuff i had. They still used a thin rotor like anything besides the legend gs has. They also were trashed in no time. Bottom line, the weight of the car, and thickness of the rotor are terrible combo. Its too heavy for those little brakes, and is not suitable for the higher temps they get from being pressed harder to slow it down. Also you need to keep in mind a car that puts your head into the window when you tap the brakes does not sell so they set it up a little underbraked from the factory
07-02-2008, 12:56 PM
#45
Originally Posted by Colt45
stainless lines are trash for a street car. Ive put 3 sets of them on this tl of mine in the last 4 years. Almost routinely each year they are leaking at the fitting and need replacement. Theres a reason why cars dont come stock with them, even ferarris. Because its a perishible item. Its going to be junk in no time. And id rather have a squishy pedal (hardly a difference with stock vs stainless imo), then have the hose blow out and have no brakes at all and brake fluid all over my near 1000 dollar each wheels.
i would have to agree with colty and i will prob switch them back out to OEM lines this summer...
07-02-2008, 01:17 PM
#46
B A N N E D
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
i was changing my oil last night and i look over to my brake fluid resevoir and see that it is insanely low... i just filled it a few months ago... so i proceed to check each wheel... 3 lines bone dry... get to the front passenger wheel and the SS brake line is just wet and covered with fluid and dirt... i have a leak at the damn fitting where they clamp the line onto the bolt!!! it hasn't even been a year yet!!! just complete rubbish...
i would have to agree with colty and i will prob switch them back out to OEM lines this summer...
i would have to agree with colty and i will prob switch them back out to OEM lines this summer...
Like i said, for the minimal improvement it makes, you can have identical results from just buying a huge bag of zip ties and putting them one after the next to wrap the lines in them. That does the same as stainless lines do basically.
07-02-2008, 04:02 PM
#47
kam,
what brand of ss lines did you have? i have a set of goodridge ss lines i'm about to put on soon and now i'm scared!
and how was the pedal feel, any improvement? should i even bother with them now?
what brand of ss lines did you have? i have a set of goodridge ss lines i'm about to put on soon and now i'm scared!
and how was the pedal feel, any improvement? should i even bother with them now?
07-02-2008, 04:11 PM
#48
Originally Posted by Colt45
thats where they break. The fitting works its way free from the line. Its just basically compressed on there with a collar crimping tool. Once the line gets heated up and cooled down it will work its way free. If you get any cheap lines off ebay, it will happen in 1/10th the time. Honestly prolly before the 3 month mark in most cases.
Like i said, for the minimal improvement it makes, you can have identical results from just buying a huge bag of zip ties and putting them one after the next to wrap the lines in them. That does the same as stainless lines do basically.
Like i said, for the minimal improvement it makes, you can have identical results from just buying a huge bag of zip ties and putting them one after the next to wrap the lines in them. That does the same as stainless lines do basically.
and undies - they are egay ones... but from what i was told, it didn't matter because my friends have also had the same experience with their high end SS lines... and pedal feel really didn't change...still a bit mushy... not rock hard at all...
07-02-2008, 04:23 PM
#49
B A N N E D
Thread Starter
around the stock ones. the zip ties make the hose not flex and does the same shit as stainless ones do. just makes it firm and not pressure out when it gets fluid pressure in there.
07-03-2008, 04:02 PM
#50
Relatively speeking. The Magnum rotors and Performance Friction pads are better that stock. With little effort, this upgrade will stop you way better that stock. Is it the ultimate? Probably not. You guys have more experience that I do. If you are on a budget, and you are do for a brake job like I am. It's something to think about.
Also, I only use cross drilled rotors, and not cross drilled and slotted rotors. You are right, they use up pads. The cross drilled allow the gas built up between the rotor and the pads when the brakes are used to escape. The older versions of the pads used rivets to hold the friction material to the backing. When they redesigned the pads and eliminated the rivets, the gas had no where to go. This causes glazing of the rotors.
This setup works good enough for me in daily driving. I wouldn't go racing with it though.
Also, I only use cross drilled rotors, and not cross drilled and slotted rotors. You are right, they use up pads. The cross drilled allow the gas built up between the rotor and the pads when the brakes are used to escape. The older versions of the pads used rivets to hold the friction material to the backing. When they redesigned the pads and eliminated the rivets, the gas had no where to go. This causes glazing of the rotors.
This setup works good enough for me in daily driving. I wouldn't go racing with it though.
07-03-2008, 04:06 PM
#51
B A N N E D
Thread Starter
Im confused whether this is a sales pitch or are you actually contributing information about the NSX BOLTON BRAKE UPGRADE HOW TO? I mean im sure the administration stickied it so people could read about how to do it, not a discussion about what else is available. Start another one and keep the chatter down in here mate.
03-09-2009, 03:49 AM
#54
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My apologies if someone already answered this question afore hand in the thread... but I was wondering if this conversion was at all possible with the 2.5's 4 lug. If so, which rotor would I need? My idea of the perfect brake set has always been cross drilled brembo rotors, akebono ceramic pads, nht calipers, and goodridge brakelines. But I figure a lineage conversion from an NSX would be awesome. Those brakes are supposed to be larger, and comparable to a brembo system. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks in advanced!
03-09-2009, 04:16 AM
#55
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My apologies if someone already answered this question afore hand in the thread... but I was wondering if this conversion was at all possible with the 2.5's 4 lug. If so, which rotor would I need? My idea of the perfect brake set has always been cross drilled brembo rotors, akebono ceramic pads, nht calipers, and goodridge brakelines. But I figure a lineage conversion from an NSX would be awesome. Those brakes are supposed to be larger, and comparable to a brembo system. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks in advanced!
05-01-2009, 05:32 PM
#56
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Okay, let me get this straight... I'm going for a 5 lug conversion anyway, so I want to know if my shopping list is correct. I'm starting off with NSX brake calipers (91-95). So then obviously I'm shopping for NSX brake pads, and considering you guys mentioned similiarities with Legend them too? You mentioned 95 Legend brake lines. What am I missing other than listed? Would suspension be compromised at all? After my 5 lug converion, brackets would be all good?
Caliper: NSX
Pads: NSX or Legend
Lines: Legend
Rotor: Legend
Suspension: ???
Bracket: ???
Caliper: NSX
Pads: NSX or Legend
Lines: Legend
Rotor: Legend
Suspension: ???
Bracket: ???
Last edited by [/\]; 05-01-2009 at 05:35 PM.
05-01-2009, 08:06 PM
#57
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Ha, nevermind. My (front) brakes went bad before I had resources for the 5 lug conversion. So I'm emprovising. I am going with the 4 lug Legend Caliper brakes. This way, with the ss lines, calipers, and pads already purchased for the front... when time comes for the 5 lug conversion all i have to do is get new front rotors. Meanwhile the back tires can wait 'til I do the 5 lug conversion. Lucky for me I have ss lines for 2.5 TLs for the rear brakes to install along with the ss lines of the Legend in the front.
So, the only temporary investment is the V6 Accord front rotors.
So, the only temporary investment is the V6 Accord front rotors.
05-01-2009, 11:43 PM
#58
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got the parts
this is what I bought:
OEM 92 Legend front calipers & brackets
goodridge g-stop 95 Legend ss brakelines
Brembo 95 V6 Accord plain vented front rotors
Akebono ProACT 95 Legend ceramic front brake pads
(I've already been had ss brakelines for the stock brakes, so i'll have an extra stock front ss brakelines and Legend rear ss brakelines!)
OEM 92 Legend front calipers & brackets
goodridge g-stop 95 Legend ss brakelines
Brembo 95 V6 Accord plain vented front rotors
Akebono ProACT 95 Legend ceramic front brake pads
(I've already been had ss brakelines for the stock brakes, so i'll have an extra stock front ss brakelines and Legend rear ss brakelines!)
Last edited by [/\]; 05-01-2009 at 11:47 PM.
05-26-2009, 12:18 PM
#59
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I just finished my swap, and here is what happened.
I installed Legend calipers and brackets, Brembo V6Accord rotors, Akebono Legend pads, and 2.5TL stainless steel brakelines.
What I could not install were my Goodridge Legend brakelines!
(I had cheapo ss lines for the TL, goodridge for the Legend)
I could've installed regular TL calipers over the V6Accord rotors, they do fit... but the only beneficial difference about the Legend calipers are the larger pistons which drive the pads; most power. The Legend pads would've fit in my TL calipers, they're literally the same size, the only difference being the piston.
I installed Legend calipers and brackets, Brembo V6Accord rotors, Akebono Legend pads, and 2.5TL stainless steel brakelines.
What I could not install were my Goodridge Legend brakelines!
(I had cheapo ss lines for the TL, goodridge for the Legend)
I could've installed regular TL calipers over the V6Accord rotors, they do fit... but the only beneficial difference about the Legend calipers are the larger pistons which drive the pads; most power. The Legend pads would've fit in my TL calipers, they're literally the same size, the only difference being the piston.
05-26-2009, 12:32 PM
#60
this is what I bought:
OEM 92 Legend front calipers & brackets
goodridge g-stop 95 Legend ss brakelines
Brembo 95 V6 Accord plain vented front rotors
Akebono ProACT 95 Legend ceramic front brake pads
(I've already been had ss brakelines for the stock brakes, so i'll have an extra stock front ss brakelines and Legend rear ss brakelines!)
OEM 92 Legend front calipers & brackets
goodridge g-stop 95 Legend ss brakelines
Brembo 95 V6 Accord plain vented front rotors
Akebono ProACT 95 Legend ceramic front brake pads
(I've already been had ss brakelines for the stock brakes, so i'll have an extra stock front ss brakelines and Legend rear ss brakelines!)
I just finished my swap, and here is what happened.
I installed Legend calipers and brackets, Brembo V6Accord rotors, Akebono Legend pads, and 2.5TL stainless steel brakelines.
What I could not install were my Goodridge Legend brakelines!
(I had cheapo ss lines for the TL, goodridge for the Legend)
I could've installed regular TL calipers over the V6Accord rotors, they do fit... but the only beneficial difference about the Legend calipers are the larger pistons which drive the pads; most power. The Legend pads would've fit in my TL calipers, they're literally the same size, the only difference being the piston.
I installed Legend calipers and brackets, Brembo V6Accord rotors, Akebono Legend pads, and 2.5TL stainless steel brakelines.
What I could not install were my Goodridge Legend brakelines!
(I had cheapo ss lines for the TL, goodridge for the Legend)
I could've installed regular TL calipers over the V6Accord rotors, they do fit... but the only beneficial difference about the Legend calipers are the larger pistons which drive the pads; most power. The Legend pads would've fit in my TL calipers, they're literally the same size, the only difference being the piston.
07-17-2009, 01:11 PM
#61
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Alright niggas. As i mentioned before i had been working on this. Well i finally aquired 1 focking hour to do it.
Anyhow. Its a DIRECT BOLT ON. No fabrication, no special spacing, or "RIGGING" is necessary. This a bolt and play modification..
You need to remove the TL SHIT. first off
Instead of ordering the TL parts for replacements you order
FRONT ROTOR: 95 LEGEND GS (2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) Raybestos part number:RAY 96364 two of those for the fronts
BRAKE CALIPERS: 91-95 NA1 Acura NSX loaded calipers
note the 96+ NSX NA2 caliper WILL NOT WORK...96+ nsx adapted a larger front wheel allowing more area for larger front rotors, the newer nsx brackets are too large and will rub unless you run different rotors. The backspacing on the caliper is different as well so the caliper would need to be shimmed between the bracket and the caliper. Im not getting into that shit cause this isnt a how to on making the na2 calipers work this is a how to bolt the shit on and go).
The calipers you need are RAYBESTOS RC 10294 AND RC 10293
The rc stands for loaded calipers which come with cerametalic pads. I paid 70.00 per caliper with pads. BUT, my best friends family owns the largest chain of parts stores in ohio/cincinnati area. Any Parts Plus store or raybestos brakes handling company can order these brakes.
BRAKE LINES: 95 LEGEND GS(2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) I just ordered goodridge lines.
Gtg ill post the pics later
Anyhow. Its a DIRECT BOLT ON. No fabrication, no special spacing, or "RIGGING" is necessary. This a bolt and play modification..
You need to remove the TL SHIT. first off
Instead of ordering the TL parts for replacements you order
FRONT ROTOR: 95 LEGEND GS (2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) Raybestos part number:RAY 96364 two of those for the fronts
BRAKE CALIPERS: 91-95 NA1 Acura NSX loaded calipers
note the 96+ NSX NA2 caliper WILL NOT WORK...96+ nsx adapted a larger front wheel allowing more area for larger front rotors, the newer nsx brackets are too large and will rub unless you run different rotors. The backspacing on the caliper is different as well so the caliper would need to be shimmed between the bracket and the caliper. Im not getting into that shit cause this isnt a how to on making the na2 calipers work this is a how to bolt the shit on and go).The calipers you need are RAYBESTOS RC 10294 AND RC 10293
The rc stands for loaded calipers which come with cerametalic pads. I paid 70.00 per caliper with pads. BUT, my best friends family owns the largest chain of parts stores in ohio/cincinnati area. Any Parts Plus store or raybestos brakes handling company can order these brakes.
BRAKE LINES: 95 LEGEND GS(2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) I just ordered goodridge lines.
Gtg ill post the pics later
06-30-2010, 03:24 PM
#65
Cruisin'
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i got a 97 tl my brakes have gone to shit no stopping power what so ever i am forced to buy new rotors capilers and well a whole new break system all the way arround ..but the thing is thaat mines is a four lugg willl what u did to ur tl work for mine and am i goinging to have to switch to a five lugg conversion
plz help ...thhnx
plz help ...thhnx
06-30-2010, 03:39 PM
#66
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i really need help brakes are shit got 97 2.5 tl need to upgrade brakes rotors lines and all that good stuff plz can some one help also was wondering if anyone is sellinf or knows where i can find the fin that goes to the trunk of my car also would like a fin for the rear windsheild also lips and side skirts let me know someone ......
06-30-2010, 04:40 PM
#67
'13 Hyundai Sonata
Keep in mind, that you have a pressed hub on the front rotors so it is going to cost more to remove them.
If you want to improve braking power, get 90-97 Accord V6 front rotors and then Legend Type II calipers that have dual pistons in them.
The rears you can just replace and put pads in. It is much easier to do the rear yourself.
If you want to improve braking power, get 90-97 Accord V6 front rotors and then Legend Type II calipers that have dual pistons in them.
The rears you can just replace and put pads in. It is much easier to do the rear yourself.
07-01-2010, 05:11 AM
#68
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Are new brake lines designed for the Legend Coupe a must for this project or can you just reuse the existing lines on our TLs.
I've ordered the SS Goodridge kit for the 3.2TL which is a 6piece kit, and am hoping it will work for the two front legend calipers.
I've ordered the SS Goodridge kit for the 3.2TL which is a 6piece kit, and am hoping it will work for the two front legend calipers.
07-02-2010, 07:52 AM
#70
'13 Hyundai Sonata
The legend caliper will bolt right on to your brake setup right now but the caliper will not fit the rotor.
The rotor on the Accord V6 is a few mm bigger and that is enough for the legend caliper.
The rotor will also give you enough clearance to run the NSX caliper.
The rotor on the Accord V6 is a few mm bigger and that is enough for the legend caliper.
The rotor will also give you enough clearance to run the NSX caliper.
08-02-2011, 04:29 PM
#74
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Alright niggas. As i mentioned before i had been working on this. Well i finally aquired 1 focking hour to do it.
Anyhow. Its a DIRECT BOLT ON. No fabrication, no special spacing, or "RIGGING" is necessary. This a bolt and play modification..
You need to remove the TL SHIT. first off
Instead of ordering the TL parts for replacements you order
FRONT ROTOR: 95 LEGEND GS (2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) Raybestos part number:RAY 96364 two of those for the fronts
BRAKE CALIPERS: 91-95 NA1 Acura NSX loaded calipersnote the 96+ NSX NA2 caliper WILL NOT WORK...96+ nsx adapted a larger front wheel allowing more area for larger front rotors, the newer nsx brackets are too large and will rub unless you run different rotors. The backspacing on the caliper is different as well so the caliper would need to be shimmed between the bracket and the caliper. Im not getting into that shit cause this isnt a how to on making the na2 calipers work this is a how to bolt the shit on and go).
The calipers you need are RAYBESTOS RC 10294 AND RC 10293
The rc stands for loaded calipers which come with cerametalic pads. I paid 70.00 per caliper with pads. BUT, my best friends family owns the largest chain of parts stores in ohio/cincinnati area. Any Parts Plus store or raybestos brakes handling company can order these brakes.
BRAKE LINES: 95 LEGEND GS(2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) I just ordered goodridge lines.
Gtg ill post the pics later
Anyhow. Its a DIRECT BOLT ON. No fabrication, no special spacing, or "RIGGING" is necessary. This a bolt and play modification..
You need to remove the TL SHIT. first off
Instead of ordering the TL parts for replacements you order
FRONT ROTOR: 95 LEGEND GS (2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) Raybestos part number:RAY 96364 two of those for the fronts
BRAKE CALIPERS: 91-95 NA1 Acura NSX loaded calipers
note the 96+ NSX NA2 caliper WILL NOT WORK...96+ nsx adapted a larger front wheel allowing more area for larger front rotors, the newer nsx brackets are too large and will rub unless you run different rotors. The backspacing on the caliper is different as well so the caliper would need to be shimmed between the bracket and the caliper. Im not getting into that shit cause this isnt a how to on making the na2 calipers work this is a how to bolt the shit on and go).The calipers you need are RAYBESTOS RC 10294 AND RC 10293
The rc stands for loaded calipers which come with cerametalic pads. I paid 70.00 per caliper with pads. BUT, my best friends family owns the largest chain of parts stores in ohio/cincinnati area. Any Parts Plus store or raybestos brakes handling company can order these brakes.
BRAKE LINES: 95 LEGEND GS(2 DOOR COUPE MODEL) I just ordered goodridge lines.
Gtg ill post the pics later
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