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Dyno tuned costed 425 an was a 5 hour drive for me.
They did check some of the injector setting at idle and a few other things. Vtec point was changed, but the car didn't like it for some reason so it was bought back to 4900.
I would have to look at my mapping again to see if the box was check. I currently don't have my car because I was having issue with the stupid turbo installation. (see turbo build cheap thread)
If you have an open field or something to do high speed 3-4th gear pull Dom is definitely worth it. That just isn't an option for me anymore sadly..
thanks for the info!! always good to hear other experiences. that's dedication to drive 5 hours for a tune
yea i did a lot of 3rd gear redlines for dom but he wanted to me to do some 4th gear redlines but i was so worried about going past 120 so i never went more than 115 (this was super super late at night and on a freeway on ramp that has wide open areas)
but at 115 i was soo nervous about cops so i said no to the 4th gear redline haha
i'll have to check your other thread about your turbo stuff
^ oo man you think that is dedication.I drove 6 hours to my fabricator/mechanic to have him install the turbo and make the intercooler piping. Couldn't finished my stuff last night on the 2nd day because of so much fitment issues. Lost my deposit at the dyno tuner place because I didn't show up at 9am this morning. O on top of that I had to get a rental car for around 750 bucks for Tuesday til sunday since I am leaving the country and drive from Dulles Airport in VA/DC back to charleston WV starting at 9pm after I been working on the car all day, and got home at 3am. So yeah **rant over**
Anyways back on track I recommend Dom. But lets not get him in trouble with the mods. He doesn't advertise anything of his tuning and basically does it because he is also a dedicated car guy. We all just happen to Tip him for his good work
^ oo man you think that is dedication.I drove 6 hours to my fabricator/mechanic to have him install the turbo and make the intercooler piping. Couldn't finished my stuff last night on the 2nd day because of so much fitment issues. Lost my deposit at the dyno tuner place because I didn't show up at 9am this morning. O on top of that I had to get a rental car for around 750 bucks for Tuesday til sunday since I am leaving the country and drive from Dulles Airport in VA/DC back to charleston WV starting at 9pm after I been working on the car all day, and got home at 3am. So yeah **rant over**
Anyways back on track I recommend Dom. But lets not get him in trouble with the mods. He doesn't advertise anything of his tuning and basically does it because he is also a dedicated car guy. We all just happen to Tip him for his good work
$750 for a week? WTF did you rent, a Lambo? lol
I have a Hondata on my bone stock 04 TL 6MT. I did it mainly for the datalogging capabilities, because information is the key. I know soooo many dopes that would mod their car, then take it to the track and get disappointed, but the car wasn't running right, wasn't tuned right, etc.
I took mine to the dyno just to have a baseline for any other mods, and it made 230 whp, and I was able to get 9 more with some tuning. The fueling was pretty good, and it took a few more degrees of timing (surprisingly.)
I now have PCDs and am prepared for when I turbo. I don't see any ROI (ha - investment) in any other mods on these cars. We can't run cams with enough lift to do any good, and you aren't gonna gain 20 WHP from an intake manifold. Turbo kit and you're at 350whp and growing. Want 20 more hp? run more boost. Want 100 more hp? Run mooore boost.
I'm a bit apprehensive about Hondata and them not having fully cracked the TL ecu and its knock retard properties. I have no evidence other than my own supposition, so no flaming please.
If I could find a JnR/MS3 at a cheap price, I'd run that with the turbo and call it a day. It's interesting that Libert ran for quite a while with no issues using the MS3, while multiple Hondata setups have gone kablewie.
Maybe I can ping Rodney for one - I see he's slangin parts on FB now, lol.
I have a Hondata on my bone stock 04 TL 6MT. I did it mainly for the datalogging capabilities, because information is the key. I know soooo many dopes that would mod their car, then take it to the track and get disappointed, but the car wasn't running right, wasn't tuned right, etc.
I took mine to the dyno just to have a baseline for any other mods, and it made 230 whp, and I was able to get 9 more with some tuning. The fueling was pretty good, and it took a few more degrees of timing (surprisingly.)
I now have PCDs and am prepared for when I turbo. I don't see any ROI (ha - investment) in any other mods on these cars. We can't run cams with enough lift to do any good, and you aren't gonna gain 20 WHP from an intake manifold. Turbo kit and you're at 350whp and growing. Want 20 more hp? run more boost. Want 100 more hp? Run mooore boost.
I'm a bit apprehensive about Hondata and them not having fully cracked the TL ecu and its knock retard properties. I have no evidence other than my own supposition, so no flaming please.
If I could find a JnR/MS3 at a cheap price, I'd run that with the turbo and call it a day. It's interesting that Libert ran for quite a while with no issues using the MS3, while multiple Hondata setups have gone kablewie.
Maybe I can ping Rodney for one - I see he's slangin parts on FB now, lol.
LOL I feel your pain. I know it adds up fast. The only saving grace I have is I work from home and the wife doesn't work so we have a spare vehicle to drive. I think I put 1500 miles on my car total last year.
My buddy also has a shop so I have access to lots of tools, lift, etc. He can't weld aluminum but that's minor.
I'll get mine going soon enough - life just keeps getting in the way. That and money.
Some extremely good info, got me wondering why the previous owner of my car stopped so abruptly with his supporting mods, maybe because it wasn't as iron-clad as it is now.
If I could find a JnR/MS3 at a cheap price, I'd run that with the turbo and call it a day. It's interesting that Libert ran for quite a while with no issues using the MS3, while multiple Hondata setups have gone kablewie.
That's not completely true. HiSpeed bought that engine and it burned tons of oil and when torn down, it had bent ring lands....
That's not completely true. HiSpeed bought that engine and it burned tons of oil and when torn down, it had bent ring lands....
I thought he ran for quite a long time on the stock motor before he finally built one to go higher power?
Also - I thought Hispeed ran that motor for a while. Did he tear it down immediately after purchasing? If not, we cannot say for sure that it happened while Libert was running it.
I thought he ran for quite a long time on the stock motor before he finally built one to go higher power?
Also - I thought Hispeed ran that motor for a while. Did he tear it down immediately after purchasing? If not, we cannot say for sure that it happened while Libert was running it.
I'll let Jack answer the question and Bert did run for a while but I guess my point is that the MS3 is not going to be any better at reacting to detonation. I logged a lot of knock events that appeared to catch and react but I had damage with moderate amounts of boost (~8lbs).
I didn't do much logging once I moved to Hondata because I was already seeing blowby and knew a rebuild was inevitable.
The only other possible solution is J&S Safeguard, but I am convinced that the only way to do this is eliminate the detonation, not try and react to it.
It will be interesting to see how long the budget turbo build lasts....
I'll let Jack answer the question and Bert did run for a while but I guess my point is that the MS3 is not going to be any better at reacting to detonation. I logged a lot of knock events that appeared to catch and react but I had damage with moderate amounts of boost (~8lbs).
I didn't do much logging once I moved to Hondata because I was already seeing blowby and knew a rebuild was inevitable.
The only other possible solution is J&S Safeguard, but I am convinced that the only way to do this is eliminate the detonation, not try and react to it.
It will be interesting to see how long the budget turbo build lasts....
BTW, do you have 5AT or 6MT?
I have a 6MT. I have Hondata right now. I know Robert is now under the impression that the mono port heads are the issue, which is definitely a possibility. There's a number of stock bottom end J32A1 and A2s with boost that don't have an issue. They also are using a standalone engine management though.
Since I have the Hondata, I'll use it. If the motor goes south, I'll put a junkyard A3 back in and try an MS3. If the same happens, then I'll go the multiport head route.
If I could find a set of multi-port heads already modded, I'd consider swapping it to see what kind of HP difference there might be vs the single port. Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone that has documented exactly what needs to be done to them, or offers them for sale.
I also plan on running E, which may help avoid the detonation issue somewhat.
There a few J30a4/5 running boost without any issues, but they are on FB and IG. They are not on any forum that I am currently tracking. It could be that you guys are going to high of a CR on the piston.
about that rev-hang...
Probably stupid but:
rev-hang (and upshift/downshift stutter)
running the right air/fuel...to save the hfpc
and bringing up idle a little to soften the 75a motor mount feel
sure, and more smoother power and a better/lower vtec engagement would be nice too.
Those all things you think you can address with the flashpro and some e-tuning?! I would assume the answer is yes. I know myself and I won't be getting an in person tune, etune is fine for me for the car to be running right and smoothly. Just reading up on it now and it seems Vit and you are who I'd be looking toward.
Rockstar, Do it already lol, it's a great add to any TL! You will be asking yourself why you didn't do it earlier.
You didn't see a lot of movement on the thread because people thought FlashPro wasn't worth it for the money, people get tied up in peak gains and want it to be like it was on the K series. They completely miss the point to why that's the outcome.
about that rev-hang...
Probably stupid but:
rev-hang (and upshift/downshift stutter)
running the right air/fuel...to save the hfpc
and bringing up idle a little to soften the 75a motor mount feel
sure, and more smoother power and a better/lower vtec engagement would be nice too.
Those all things you think you can address with the flashpro and some e-tuning?! I would assume the answer is yes. I know myself and I won't be getting an in person tune, etune is fine for me for the car to be running right and smoothly. Just reading up on it now and it seems Vit and you are who I'd be looking toward.
Thanks!
Yes those problem are all easy to fix with the flashpro, and most important, you will get a knock free car out it
I thought he ran for quite a long time on the stock motor before he finally built one to go higher power?
Also - I thought Hispeed ran that motor for a while. Did he tear it down immediately after purchasing? If not, we cannot say for sure that it happened while Libert was running it.
I only ran the engine for about 200 miles before pulling it for my current build. I am pretty sure Bert bent the ring lands with the amount of boost he was running ( 21-25 PSI/ 650 WHP) and he was going thru oil pretty fast he just thought it was the valve stem seals. I didn't get to push the car too hard with the oil use and failing gauges. I will be selling my MS3 and a bunch of other stuff pretty soon here, I installed the flash pro just waiting to tune.
I have always wanted to get the FP bu I have been so hesitant to pull the trigger... After reading some forums I feel much better to make the investment. I have some casual mods done to my car and I hear a lot about VIT and now I hear about "Toretto"...
After I do some maintenance to the TL I will probably be making the purchase...
Is everyone all sneaky with their tunes? Do people ever post them? I'd be interested in clicking around to see what the cool kids do.
What overrun injector cut delay are people getting away with? After fiddling with the throttle profile, 28ms in all gears gives good results in the higher gears. Snapping off the throttle is smoother than factory with less fuel overrun in high gears, but still leaves something to be desired in low gears. Increasing the delay does not appear to be a great solution.
Is the hard minimum idle in the ECU 750 rpm? It's a little odd the factory tune has 680 or something like that typed in. What is the factory idle speed?
for the ones that are asking if flashpro has been updated...yes it's updated every once in a while. i make it a habit of looking to see the latest software about twice a year and re upload my cals like they suggest. that way if any new features come up you can take advantage of them
Originally Posted by ZOMGVTEK
Is everyone all sneaky with their tunes? Do people ever post them? I'd be interested in clicking around to see what the cool kids do.
What overrun injector cut delay are people getting away with? After fiddling with the throttle profile, 28ms in all gears gives good results in the higher gears. Snapping off the throttle is smoother than factory with less fuel overrun in high gears, but still leaves something to be desired in low gears. Increasing the delay does not appear to be a great solution.
Is the hard minimum idle in the ECU 750 rpm? It's a little odd the factory tune has 680 or something like that typed in. What is the factory idle speed?
i played with the fuel cut delay quite a bit but could never get it perfect through all gears either. i think i found the sweet spot to be around 25ms or so, but like you said it was rougher in the lower gears (i thought 2nd gear was the roughest one). i ended up putting them back to the stock settings (i think they are like 50-70ms) but i'm going to look at them again and change the higher gears to 25-30ms i think. it makes it easier to do fast shifts but also makes it harder to have consistent good shifts
EDIT: just saw that the oem settings are 70, 70, 70, 40, 40
i haven't played with the idle items so i can't comment on those.
do you have your "overrun throttle opening enabled" unchecked? it eliminates the bucking issue if you had that previously
I'm curious...what's the bucking issue?
I get a slight bucking in 1st gear when trying to take off smoothly...I attributed it to the stage 3 spec clutch, but maybe it's ecu related?
I'd be curious to see how the car would react to slapping a 3.5 TB back on...I wish JJH hadn't lost it.
I'm curious...what's the bucking issue?
I get a slight bucking in 1st gear when trying to take off smoothly...I attributed it to the stage 3 spec clutch, but maybe it's ecu related?
I'd be curious to see how the car would react to slapping a 3.5 TB back on...I wish JJH hadn't lost it.
from what i understand, the bucking issue is usually found with the 6mt's that run the 3.7 setup. it's almost as if you aren't giving it enough gas (but you are) and it kinda chugs along and bounces in first gear
i had it very minor with my pnp items but the flashpro smoothed everything out pretty well
Curious though, for you guys messing with these parameters. Why are you doing it? Wasn't the point of the e-tune for more experienced guys to read your data logs and make adjustments accordingly?
Interesting...so it IS the throttle body causing the bucking...
almost seems like it would be easier to swap back to the 3.5 and lose the rev hang and bucking.
Curious though, for you guys messing with these parameters. Why are you doing it? Wasn't the point of the e-tune for more experienced guys to read your data logs and make adjustments accordingly?
Interesting...so it IS the throttle body causing the bucking...
almost seems like it would be easier to swap back to the 3.5 and lose the rev hang and bucking.
as far as i remember vit didn't touch these settings, dom got in there and first alerted me to it and i also came across it when reading about the features of flashpro. that's what i liked about dom, he dug in deep and really searched to see what was best for the TL application
we mess with these settings because everyone has different preferences and each car reacts somewhat different in minor aspects like this. i played with various settings to see what i liked best and what i thought my car felt best with, but i know dom came out to 28ms as well as the other guy that mentioned it. i'll prob try to go back to dom's setting now that i have a more consistent clutch feel with my ss lines
i don't know if dom has a standard setting he puts them at now but like i was saying earlier i had my flashpro very very early and we had to do a lot of testing and trial and error on certain feautures. me and dom went through about 120 calibrations trying to dial in the best afr, timing, etc. so others can benefit now
I picked up a Flashpro in the hopes I could make the car nicer to drive. It's nearly stock, and not very fast, so gaining a few HP isn't a big concern. I mainly wanted to make fuel cut more consistent through all gears, revs, and coolant temps to make shifting faster and easier. Plus, getting the fan to kick on at a more sensible temp wouldn't hurt to try and keep the IAT's under control during hot idle at a light.
I only had it a few days, but so far it's working out fairly well. The car now drives about the same when its warm as when its hot. It would be nice if I could have totally different tables for when the A/C is on.
Did anyone spend a considerable amount of time with the intake runner changeover? I bumped it down 50rpm and put a very small window on engagement, which appears to help make the throttle less touchy when driving through it.
It's funny you mention that...I was actually wondering if it could counter heat soak at all. In the dead of summer on a hot day, the damn thing gets robbed of so much power!
I didn't datalog on a really hot day yet, but it looks like I should be able to make it drive normal on a hot day after a long idle. This would mean leaving something on the table on a warm or cool day so theres some headroom.
Curious though, for you guys messing with these parameters. Why are you doing it? Wasn't the point of the e-tune for more experienced guys to read your data logs and make adjustments accordingly?
Interesting...so it IS the throttle body causing the bucking...
almost seems like it would be easier to swap back to the 3.5 and lose the rev hang and bucking.
For me, I had the bucking issue with my stock 3.5TB and it got worst with the ZDX one. Hondata finally solved the problem after a lot of complains from me and other users. With times, you start to get used to this annoying thing but when the fix came out, it was so nice to drive a normal car again
05-18-2016, 01:11 PM
Thanks for all the good words guys 
