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After carefully reviewing these two threads I bought myself a new Slave Cylinder (a LuK in this case) and *assumed* the instructions given in these threads would be applicable to the LuK version. Ummm, apparently not so much, unless I'm missing something, the LuK Clutch Delay Valve appears to be very different, hence this new thread.
For starters, the various techniques for removing the ever problematic "C" clip all apply to the LuK version. I opted to use an old X-Acto blade with a snapped off point; I removed a tiny amount of aluminum from above the end of the "C" clip and was easily able to pry it out of it's groove:
Here is the exploded view of the parts from inside the cylinder:
Here is a view into the butt end of the cylinder (note, when the plastic dust cap was removed from the other end, light clearly shines all of the way through the cylinder):
Here is a view showing what I believe to be LuK's version of the CDV removed from the spring:
With the little cap removed, I put the spring back in, replaced the cap and the "C" spring, and called it a day. The good news is, the mod took a fraction of the time of taking all of the pictures and making this post.
Hey horseshoez,
Have you installed the LUK slave cylinder yet? I'm wondering if the install is just a straight swap, considering it is slightly different than OEM
Hey horseshoez,
Have you installed the LUK slave cylinder yet? I'm wondering if the install is just a straight swap, considering it is slightly different than OEM
Any troubles bleeding the clutch? Curious because I will be doing this mod in the near future.
I didn't end up doing any of the work, I got too busy with work. That said, bleeding a clutch slave cylinder is easy with two people, or one person if you have a bleeder kit.
Most of the time when I'm working on the car, I'm usually by myself. When bleeding brakes, I use the one person bleed method. I have yet to bleed any clutch system so I an unfamilar with bleeding a clutch. From the research I've done so far, a few people has hit some obstacles where there is still air in the system even after many bleed attempts. As this is my daily, the car cannot be down for too long. Am I overthinking this mod? Lol
Most of the time when I'm working on the car, I'm usually by myself. When bleeding brakes, I use the one person bleed method. I have yet to bleed any clutch system so I an unfamilar with bleeding a clutch. From the research I've done so far, a few people has hit some obstacles where there is still air in the system even after many bleed attempts. As this is my daily, the car cannot be down for too long. Am I overthinking this mod? Lol
Way over-thinking it; bleeding a clutch is as easy as bleeding brakes, you even use good old fashion Dot-3 brake fluid in the system.
Thanks, the clutch feel is much better with the new clutch in there, but as I posted in the Spring Refresh thread, I just discovered the shop missed my new slave cylinder, so the old part, CDV and all, is still on my car.
The above said, there has been a massive improvement in clutch engagement off the line and the 1-2 shift; things are way smoother and easier to do without looking like a complete noob.
I am going to attempt the same thing this weekend, and wanted to confirm something After I remove the cap? What do I leave out again? Was there no drilling like the other threads?
I got the same LUK Slave Cylinder, so is the little Blackcap on the end of the spring the only thing I need to remove?
I am going to attempt the same thing this weekend, and wanted to confirm something After I remove the cap? What do I leave out again? Was there no drilling like the other threads?
I got the same LUK Slave Cylinder, so is the little Blackcap on the end of the spring the only thing I need to remove?
Horse thanks for the write up, I am a little confused because Ive seen other write ups of this done and there is usually a plastic cylinder that you remove-Im assuming the check valve. In this case that same check valve in the Luk brand is the small black plastic piece that came out with the spring? I just cant believe that little piece would restrict the flow. I just ordered my Luk cylinder so Ill be attempting this soon. Thanks
Horse thanks for the write up, I am a little confused because Ive seen other write ups of this done and there is usually a plastic cylinder that you remove-Im assuming the check valve. In this case that same check valve in the Luk brand is the small black plastic piece that came out with the spring? I just cant believe that little piece would restrict the flow. I just ordered my Luk cylinder so Ill be attempting this soon. Thanks
I can confirm yes, that little black cap that looks like the top of a "Valve" with a pinhole in the middle, that sits on top of spring is the check valve... Tiny thing causes so much trouble...
My concern is that after the check valve delete, are the OEM hose going to be able to handle the pressure and not leak? It shouldn't but once I get the Master cylinder, delay valve delete kit from K-Tuned I will feel better as it comes with a hose that is reinforced. The only other thing is the connections on the hose between the K-Tuned Master Cylinder and Slave seem to be different, so I have no idea if it will work, or what adapter, if needed, would work..
I can confirm yes, that little black cap that looks like the top of a "Valve" with a pinhole in the middle, that sits on top of spring is the check valve... Tiny thing causes so much trouble...
My concern is that after the check valve delete, are the OEM hose going to be able to handle the pressure and not leak? It shouldn't but once I get the Master cylinder, delay valve delete kit from K-Tuned I will feel better as it comes with a hose that is reinforced. The only other thing is the connections on the hose between the K-Tuned Master Cylinder and Slave seem to be different, so I have no idea if it will work, or what adapter, if needed, would work..
Thank you Serpant, I did buy the SS clutch line because it was affordable but many people on here have done this mod without using that aftermarket line and I have not heard of any lines leaking. I have probably over researched this mod like a lot of us. I can't wait to finally get it done.
I can confirm yes, that little black cap that looks like the top of a "Valve" with a pinhole in the middle, that sits on top of spring is the check valve... Tiny thing causes so much trouble...
My concern is that after the check valve delete, are the OEM hose going to be able to handle the pressure and not leak? It shouldn't but once I get the Master cylinder, delay valve delete kit from K-Tuned I will feel better as it comes with a hose that is reinforced. The only other thing is the connections on the hose between the K-Tuned Master Cylinder and Slave seem to be different, so I have no idea if it will work, or what adapter, if needed, would work..
There will be exactly zero difference in the maximum pressure, regardless of whether the check valve is in there or not. The highest pressure is when you are pressing in on the clutch, and the check valve only comes into play when you are releasing the clutch quickly.
Absolutely no need for the braided SS hose. It's not like a brake line that is in close proximity to a high heat source (the calipers).
I think the only time a braided SS hose becomes preferable is when a high clamp load clutch is being used.
That C clip is a piece of cake to remove if the end cap is pushed in a little with a small round piece of material. Granted it reduces the access to the C clip, but it's well worth the trouble.
You can use a vise or a c-clamp to push/hold the round material on the end cap while you are removing the C clip. A small hook shaped pick tool can be used to grab the C clip.
Pick tool set:
I did the clutch bleeding about 4-5 separate times (due to swapping slaves and what not). And i found that the last time I did it, i couldn't get a nice pedal feel until I had a second person push down on the pedal as I bled. My trusty MityVac wouldn't suck out all the air. Brakes were never a problem though. Now the clutch pedal feels better than all my previous bleeds.
I did the clutch bleeding about 4-5 separate times (due to swapping slaves and what not). And i found that the last time I did it, i couldn't get a nice pedal feel until I had a second person push down on the pedal as I bled. My trusty MityVac wouldn't suck out all the air. Brakes were never a problem though. Now the clutch pedal feels better than all my previous bleeds.
thats becuz the bleeding procedure is a bit different then bleeding brakes,
glad u got it worked out tho
Yup, that's what I did; simply remove the black cap with the tiny orifice in the middle, and reassemble the cylinder.
Horseshoez I hope you get this soon, I am trying to do what you recommended, but I am using a normal utility knife..... When you say you were taking out some aluminum above the end of the C clip. am I on the right track according to the picture below?
Do I need to go get an Exacto knife?
Horseshoez I hope you get this soon, I am trying to do what you recommended, but I am using a normal utility knife..... When you say you were taking out some aluminum above the end of the C clip. am I on the right track according to the picture below?
Do I need to go get an Exacto knife?
Luk Slave,
Yes, it looks like you're in the right track. All I needed to do was to effectively erode the aluminum above one end of the C spring so I could wiggle the flattish point of my xActo blade under the clip and move it up. Once I got the blade underneath, moving the spring up and popping it out was easy. I'll monitor this thread for much of the day as I'm stuck inside on a work project, so if you have any more questions, feel free.
Hmmm, might work. If you look at my pictures you'll see the very tip of my blade had been snapped off (wifey does lots of art stuff and I selected this blade as the most likely candidate for success). I don't know how easy it would be to say, attach a vicegrip to the end of your blade and snap off the very tip, but that might help.
Got a problem Horseshoez, that "C" clip flung across the room, I was talking to my wife, and my dumbass didn't pay attention. I got the cap and spring out, but have been checking the area where the "C" clip might be.... Damnit so pissed at myself. And you freaking warned me to be careful....
Can I use JB Weld to hold everything in place, without the "C" clip or am I screwed and need to by a new LUK slave cylinder?
So as I said, my dumbass lost the "C" Clip I am sure I will find it one day... I didn't hear back from Horseshoez, so I made a decision to use JB Weld to hold the black cap in. I doubt I will have to take the Slave Cylinder apart again... and I have no idea if this is going to work I might have even screwed myself. Just make sure you read the comments on this post to confirm. AND make sure you don't do what I just did, make sure you have a hand over the cap and "C" clip before you pop it out, or like others suggested have a Big ziplock bag over the Slave while you pry the clip out of place. To help prevent the "C" clip from being lost.
I will install the Slave in the car, tomorrow and bleed the system. I just don't know if the black cap the "C" clip was holding in, needs to depress in or not. If it does need to sink in then my JB Weld fix, just ruined it and I will buy another Slave cylinder.
Sorry for my emotional response above, but really upset that despite hearing the warnings from my peers I still messed up.. I'll update the thread once installed and tested.
Sorry SerpentX, I went out for a long run. Yikes, bad luck on the C spring; to be honest, I really don't know how well JB Weld will hold up; that said, I don't think the pressure in the clutch hydraulics is anywhere near as high as the brakes, so you might be good to go.
That JB Weld is not a reliable fix. Even if you are able to bleed the line, it could fail at any time. You would be wise to get another slave cylinder, preferably the Nissin part: 46930-SDP-A01.
That JB Weld is not a reliable fix. Even if you are able to bleed the line, it could fail at any time. You would be wise to get another slave cylinder, preferably the Nissin part: 46930-SDP-A01.
That part doesn't fit my car, I'll just get another one... Damnit
Finally did it right, and have everything squared away, this time I was smart and used a Ziploc bag when I was ready to pry the "C" clip out.
Will install it tomorrow, and bleed the clutch, next it will be the master cylinder.
Tools needed for delete of Check Valve, in LUK slave cylinder.
Sorry SerpentX, I went out for a long run. Yikes, bad luck on the C spring; to be honest, I really don't know how well JB Weld will hold up; that said, I don't think the pressure in the clutch hydraulics is anywhere near as high as the brakes, so you might be good to go.
Keep us posted.
Hey Horseshoez, I don't seem the have a wrench small enough for the bleeder valve, it is smaller than a 10mm. Using an adjustable wrench I have no room with the motor mount right there. Do you know what size Open end wrench I need, and any tips for working in a tight space? Did you work from the top of the car, not the bottom correct?
Thank you, I will get one tomorrow. Install modified Slave next weekend... Got a lot done this weekend, my mining rig power supply died, so had to fix that, then modified Slave cylinder, did yard work... MY Spring cleaning is done...time to rest.
How did you guys bust the Brakeline loose, when you turn it, it also turns the nut the Brake line is threaded into.... So what did you use to hold it steady with limited room but break the Brake line loose?
I don't even have a wrench big enough to fit it, so will need to pick that up this week as well, anyone knows what size it is?
03-03-2018, 01:09 PM
