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Curious. Having been in that area while installing the tranny cooler, do you think there will be enough room behind the Rotex intercooler for it to live comfortably? It's kind of difficult to see in the pictures below:
For the small size that it is, you can make it fit down low , but the top mounting brackets would need to extend about 12” more to reach. It fits both in front and back of the intercooler.
Why you gotta tease me with Rotrex installs. You Know I’m eeking to install it on the auto, but I just cant. I need to wait and install it on the 6mt. My buddy has a black one he is selling to me for 9k. 140k miles. Salvage title.
For the small size that it is, you can make it fit down low , but the top mounting brackets would need to extend about 12” more to reach. It fits both in front and back of the intercooler.
Understood.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Why you gotta tease me with Rotrex installs. You Know I’m eeking to install it on the auto, but I just cant. I need to wait and install it on the 6mt. My buddy has a black one he is selling to me for 9k. 140k miles. Salvage title.
WTF, 9K with salvage title?
I mean, since you're gonna spend the money to rotrex anyway, you probably will never sell it so it won't matter.
I'm guessing it's a type S.
Yes it’s a 2007 type S. I won’t be selling it so Salvage title is okay. My current TL I’ve had for nearly five years is a salvage aswell. Bought it for 10.8k at 74k miles. It’s now at 161k and running strong.
By the time I have the money to buy the type S, a clean title example may be around 9k.
I see you're planning on keeping the Comptech on your DD and hunting for a Type-S 6MT, nice! It will be an entirely different animal than your current car. If you haven't done so already I would talk to Geezy to gain his insight on beefing up that 6MT. That trans is highly sought after not only in the TL community but also the J-swap community; having to replace it could be a bitch. RV6 straight-cut 3rd & 4th and cuff, what gear oil to use, etc. 1000hp insane shafts, maybe XLR8 motor mounts with G-slices inserts and poly trans mounts.... Real race car status!
I see you're planning on keeping the Comptech on your DD and hunting for a Type-S 6MT, nice! It will be an entirely different animal than your current car. If you haven't done so already I would talk to Geezy to gain his insight on beefing up that 6MT. That trans is highly sought after not only in the TL community but also the J-swap community; having to replace it could be a bitch. RV6 straight-cut 3rd & 4th and cuff, what gear oil to use, etc. 1000hp insane shafts, maybe XLR8 motor mounts with G-slices inserts and poly trans mounts.... Real race car status!
Not sure about the Insane driveshafts, I would look else where. It might be different for a street vehicle, but I ruined a new 500HP B series axle at Road America going into Turn 1 at 120+ mph under braking during the first session of the weekend. It damn near pulled me in the grass, thankful I kept it out of the grass and got to a safe spot. A few guys on the track midwest group have had similar experiences with Insane shafts. I replaced it with Advanced Auto part store axle at the track and it survived the rest of the weekend. I am also only making ~200WHP lol.
Not sure about the Insane driveshafts, I would look else where. It might be different for a street vehicle, but I ruined a new 500HP B series axle at Road America going into Turn 1 at 120+ mph under braking during the first session of the weekend. It damn near pulled me in the grass, thankful I kept it out of the grass and got to a safe spot. A few guys on the track midwest group have had similar experiences with Insane shafts. I replaced it with Advanced Auto part store axle at the track and it survived the rest of the weekend. I am also only making ~200WHP lol.
Seeing as how Raxles no longer seems to support the 3rd gen platform, his only choice for axles are Insane shafts or OEM, unless you know of another manufacturer.
Seeing as how Raxles no longer seems to support the 3rd gen platform, his only choice for axles are Insane shafts or OEM, unless you know of another manufacturer.
I would try the Drive Shaft Shop. They do custom stuff, EURORSpecTSX was really happy with their axles on his J37 swapped TSX. DSS also does Jswap axles in older Honda/Acura platforms.
I might actually install the Rotrex into the auto. I drove around in tiptronic tonight for the first time in the nearly five years of ownership. It’s almost like a manual. I was able to control the car in and out of corners much better utilizing the engine instead of mostly brakes. It’s so easy to get the car to do what you expect it to.
In this new unlocking of my driving potential I ordered the type S paddle shifters.
This way I don’t have to drive through corners with one hand
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 08-18-2018 at 04:58 AM.
Hey guys, it’s been more than 5,000 miles since the Comptech Supercharger was installed and finished. It’s running very well! The tranny seems to not mind the bump in HP(knock on wood). The whine is loud and sounds delectable.
The voltometer is ready. I plan to troubleshoot the paddle shifters this weekend. Would have done it sooner, but I don’t want to rush removing the panels and risk damaging them.
lol, IMO I think it is a bit high; however, usually when one is 'jonesing for' cash due to 'tough times', things tend to be a little overpriced.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
The voltometer is ready. I plan to troubleshoot the paddle shifters this weekend. Would have done it sooner, but I don’t want to rush removing the panels and risk damaging them.
Interested to see what you find. Don't forget to update your thread with the results. Good Luck.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
How have you been Zeta? How’s the CL-S?
Car's running fine, I put some Conti Extreme Contact Sport Tires on recently so it feels a lot better driving.
Hey, did you complete your BSN or still working at it?
The voltometer is ready. I plan to troubleshoot the paddle shifters this weekend. Would have done it sooner, but I don’t want to rush removing the panels and risk damaging them.
How have you been Zeta? How’s the CL-S?
For a used kit, its a bit steep. Specially since it seems to be missing the original intake (and who knows what else). Plus, I'd have a hard time believing it only has like 20k miles on it. . But CTE recently closed their doors for good, so who knows...they may become collectable!... or not. It now falls into the law of supply and demand. But good luck finding repair parts. However, Heel-Toe is providing some support for Comptech products. They're working on getting me a new intake filter.
If my memory serves me correctly, that looks like a 3.2 out of a '04-'06, which I dont think will work in your case (someone correct me please) I don't think it will match up to your '07-'08 auto trans. I'm fairly sure that there is a difference in the block casting of the two J32A3's (one from '04-'06, other from '07-'08) even though they're both stamped with the same code.
If my memory serves me correctly, that looks like a 3.2 out of a '04-'06, which I dont think will work in your case (someone correct me please) I don't think it will match up to your '07-'08 auto trans. I'm fairly sure that there is a difference in the block casting of the two J32A3's (one from '04-'06, other from '07-'08) even though they're both stamped with the same code.
You are correct, 2004-2006 engines will not work in a 2007-2008 TL with an automatic transmission.
Stock J series rods are toothpicks, I wouldn't expect those to hold up. If youre talking about a performance engine for your Rotrex kit, youre gonna need to go full build: rods, pistons, valvesprings, maybe even valves as well. I'm at the limit of stock components now at 9psi (in terms of reliability). The next course of action would be to up the boost a hair and install stiffer valve springs and retainers.
Stock J series rods are toothpicks, I wouldn't expect those to hold up. If youre talking about a performance engine for your Rotrex kit, youre gonna need to go full build: rods, pistons, valvesprings, maybe even valves as well. I'm at the limit of stock components now at 9psi (in terms of reliability). The next course of action would be to up the boost a hair and install stiffer valve springs and retainers.
Would the OEM sleeves and crankshaft be okay?
Could I use the aftermarket crank pulley, or would it prematurely wear the journals closest to the crank pulley due to weight imbalance?
The stage of kit you purchased is the top-of-the-range and has pre-requisites that need to be met if you're expecting to make the kind of power Andy has discussed reliably. You're gonna need to have a block sleeved and epoxied, for sure. Stock crank will do but other than that, expect to fully build your motor (I'm sure gerzand can guide you with part numbers for rods, pistons, etc.). You're also gonna want to have someone who is reputable and has extensive knowledge in this area to do the labor. Tbh you're looking at somewhere between a $5k-$10k investment for a sleeved, fully built J35. A buddy of mine was in a similar position as you; he had a sleeved J35 assembled with pistons, rods etc, for an '08 auto chassis. Reputable and experienced shop did the work. He was only at a stage two kit I believe w/ E85 and 12psi. When the motor was being built, an oversight occurred and it was not epoxied. Car made 480whp and motor lasted a couple of months (this was his second attempt at a built-motor Rotrex setup). Was out driving one day, he went to downshift, and bye-bye sleeve; it had cracked. Car ate all the coolant in one big gulp. Was able to salvage the internals but still a very costly mistake. Dont take shortcuts building your motor. It will come back to bite you. This was only at 12 psi.
08-12-2018, 10:55 PM
