A-113: Removal of Slave Cylinder check valve!!!
08-02-2009, 06:11 PM
#121
after a few days of driving with mod, i can't believe how much better the car feels. its like driving a total differant car. i think this is a must for any 6mt owner!!!!! it was not very hard to do and the results are great.
the car always had a wierd feel with the clutch when i was backing up. now that problem is gone. best of all it didn't cost any money!
i can't expain it but those who have done this know what i mean about the differance.
don't waist time thinking about, just do it!
the car always had a wierd feel with the clutch when i was backing up. now that problem is gone. best of all it didn't cost any money!
i can't expain it but those who have done this know what i mean about the differance.
don't waist time thinking about, just do it!
Last edited by pinina; 08-02-2009 at 06:16 PM.
08-02-2009, 09:59 PM
#124
You can...but you don't have to.
I agree...this should be in the garage for sure. The reaction people are having is exactly how I felt...you won't know until you do it how much the clutch sucked before. Once it's done you'll see. That's why I started the other thread saying ALL 6MT owners need to do this!
Opel...you da man.
I agree...this should be in the garage for sure. The reaction people are having is exactly how I felt...you won't know until you do it how much the clutch sucked before. Once it's done you'll see. That's why I started the other thread saying ALL 6MT owners need to do this!
Opel...you da man.
08-02-2009, 10:06 PM
#125
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
You can...but you don't have to.
I agree...this should be in the garage for sure. The reaction people are having is exactly how I felt...you won't know until you do it how much the clutch sucked before. Once it's done you'll see. That's why I started the other thread saying ALL 6MT owners need to do this!
Opel...you da man.
I agree...this should be in the garage for sure. The reaction people are having is exactly how I felt...you won't know until you do it how much the clutch sucked before. Once it's done you'll see. That's why I started the other thread saying ALL 6MT owners need to do this!
Opel...you da man.
but anyway, im glad to see some ppl have done it, and notice the difference and like it
08-02-2009, 10:24 PM
#126
Trust me...I'm seeing exactly what you mean. The other thread is quickly turning into a "failed" mod thread with many people coming on and talking about how this mod is going to destroy the transmission. I don't know. I'm happy and hope nothing bad happens.
08-02-2009, 10:34 PM
#127
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
im not gonna force anyone, nor do i care... people will always be people... so if they believe that it will destroy the tranny...let them believe that...im not gonna waste my breath trying to explain anything to "fake enthusiasts" and what i mean by that last term is... ppl who want the best of both worlds...and u just can't have it... such as... good handling with soft suspension...good tires but quiet, they wanna gut out their whole exhaust and go bigger, but yet complain about loudness...they want a quiet rocketship... just so much bitching and moaning about every goddamn thing... cat deletes but wanna pass emissions, ... bitch about the clutch but when smth is offered...no it will mess up the tranny.. someone makes a good clutch disc...ohhhh nooooooooooooo will it mess up the pressure plate and FW? of courseeeee it will...geeeez and the best is when they ask of the intake makes too much noise....well eninstein...it depends on how u drive.... i just dont fucking get it
08-02-2009, 11:01 PM
#128
Senior Moderator
added to the 3G garage, thanks for the DIY 
08-03-2009, 08:28 AM
#129
^^^
Dude...I feel your pain and agree wholeheartedly. Best thing is find something right in between whatever you're looking for. A happy medium...a little louder exhaust that improves performance a bit...etc.
Since this got put in my garage to avoid any other links I'll include the link to the one I started in case there's anything pertinent that ends up there.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/if-you-have-6-speed-mt-hate-shifting-read-me-738245/
Dude...I feel your pain and agree wholeheartedly. Best thing is find something right in between whatever you're looking for. A happy medium...a little louder exhaust that improves performance a bit...etc.
Since this got put in my garage to avoid any other links I'll include the link to the one I started in case there's anything pertinent that ends up there.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/if-you-have-6-speed-mt-hate-shifting-read-me-738245/
08-03-2009, 06:42 PM
#130
just removed the check valve from a new cylinder
that was a pain but got it done in 1/2 hr or so... majority of that was messing with that cap... the ring came out of messing with it for 5 minutes with a pick set
do have a question though... does it matter if my cap is scratched up pretty good? it would not come out easy with the needle nose pliers...
that was a pain but got it done in 1/2 hr or so... majority of that was messing with that cap... the ring came out of messing with it for 5 minutes with a pick set
do have a question though... does it matter if my cap is scratched up pretty good? it would not come out easy with the needle nose pliers...
08-03-2009, 11:06 PM
#132
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
as long as u didnt put deep lines on the side of the cap through the whole thing...it should be ok... best bet is try it and make sure it doesnt leak...i know the cap fits very precisely though...i can't see how ud line up the side though... but if its on the top where u tried to pick it...no problem
08-04-2009, 07:16 PM
#133
very interested in doing this to my 6speed, but i am a total noob when it comes ot drivetrain and it's components! ok, if i remove the slave cylinder, i hear that I would have to plug the clutchline with something so the fluid doesn't come out right? afterwards, let's say that i removed the checkvalve, reinstalled everything...would i have to bleed the clutch or is everything ok from there? sorry for the ubertastic noob questions =[ but thank you Opel and everyone! this seems like a very legit mod
08-04-2009, 07:44 PM
#134
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
yes u would have the bleed the clutch, once u assemble everything back up. dont worry so much about blocking the line...its only brake fluid, not blood 
....not much spills anyway...and ull spill some when ya bleed the clutch.. and dont ask how to bleed the clutch...go back and read the posts!!!! ol
....not much spills anyway...and ull spill some when ya bleed the clutch.. and dont ask how to bleed the clutch...go back and read the posts!!!! ol
08-04-2009, 08:09 PM
#135
Man of God.....
Opel You ROCK!!!!
I have been asking and asking where this little sucker is. No one seemed to know. All I kept hearing was your clutch will wear out too fast! Well, I know how to drive a stick. The TL with this stupider restricter valve SUCKS!! I HATE the way it feels. Have since the day I 1st. test drove it. I just am trying my best to thank you very much. I was hoping that if I used more words. It would take on more meaning......
I so want to do this. How soon will the GROUP BUY is on this part? ie the SC. Be up for sale. I mean without the reducer in it. So we can just change it out?
THANK YOU OPEL!!!
I so want to do this. How soon will the GROUP BUY is on this part? ie the SC. Be up for sale. I mean without the reducer in it. So we can just change it out?
THANK YOU OPEL!!!
08-04-2009, 08:52 PM
#136
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
there's no group buys for this...theres no Slave cylinder without the check valve... you can just open ur own SC, and remove the checkvalve... THIS IS THE THING ABOUT THIS MOD, ITS FREE......some people are buying new SC, because they're under $100, and cutting downtime, by removing the check valve off the new sc and just swapping it out with the one on the car.. u dont have to buy a new one though...thats completely up to you on how u wanna go about this
08-04-2009, 09:07 PM
#137
Man of God.....
Well you missed my BIG point! I was trying to say thanks for doing the mod. I had all but given up on this mod.....
I know there is no group buy. I was asking if there was any interest in doing one. To bring the price down on the SC. My thought was that if someone bought some of them (SC) then removed the valve. Then resoled them to us. He would still make some money. We would get a drop-in part. You see? I guess I wasn't very clear....
I know there is no group buy. I was asking if there was any interest in doing one. To bring the price down on the SC. My thought was that if someone bought some of them (SC) then removed the valve. Then resoled them to us. He would still make some money. We would get a drop-in part. You see? I guess I wasn't very clear....
08-04-2009, 10:46 PM
#138
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
well, i appreciate ur thank yous
and i understand ur point of doing just that with the group buys...but here's the prob....there would be few ppl who wont see any difference in this, and it would come back and bite me in the ass...and also smth happens to someones car....their tranny blows, or they strip a grear... or end up frying their clutch...anything along those lines, theyll blame the SC for it...even though ive said it more than i care to remember...this mod, youll only benefit from it! and it wont cause anything bad.
and i understand ur point of doing just that with the group buys...but here's the prob....there would be few ppl who wont see any difference in this, and it would come back and bite me in the ass...and also smth happens to someones car....their tranny blows, or they strip a grear... or end up frying their clutch...anything along those lines, theyll blame the SC for it...even though ive said it more than i care to remember...this mod, youll only benefit from it! and it wont cause anything bad.
08-05-2009, 02:34 AM
#139
if anybody from the socal area will be doing please let me know. I'd like to watch once, then I'll be able to do it. I'll buy you lunch, or walk your dog, or mow your lawn, and/or take your hot sister out to dinner.
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IntactACK (06-14-2013)
08-05-2009, 07:59 AM
#140
getting the ring and cap out is truly a pain so not sure who would want to spend thta time and dedication to resell for a small or tiny profit... as Opel said people buy a new one due to time
I bought a new one becaue I was not sure if my fat fingers would break anything.. I have a gift for breaking things
I bought a new one becaue I was not sure if my fat fingers would break anything.. I have a gift for breaking things
08-05-2009, 09:12 AM
#141
Former Whyner
08-05-2009, 10:01 AM
#142
Mod is intimidating, especially if your expertise stops at changing a bulb or applying a sticker.
As simple as possible here, and trust me, you are cabable:
All of below is referring to slave cylinder mounted to front of tranny on front right...you can see it just below and a little to the left of your radiator hoses (or hoes if you're a pimp)
1) get long socket extension, loosen and remove right top bolt (when facing car, this one holds the black bracket blocking your view of the actual fluid line), wait on the left one cause it'll hold the slave in place to loosen and remove the clutch line
2) use 2 wrenches to loosen and undo clutch line, not much will leak out...don't worry about it.
3) now take off the left bolt and remove the slave cylinder
4) perform your surgery to remove the checkvalve...use whatever method you want...putting a little cut in the edge to use a tool to pull up the ring is your best bet...this will take you 30 seconds and will let you skip the frustrations...it does no harm to functionality of the slave and unless you plan on a photoshoot of your slave on the car with your camera on macro mode...no one will be the wiser.
4) Now put everything back in minus the checkvalve (I hope this is obvious at this point).
5) Tell your girl to pause Maury on the DVR and come outside (is this just me?) for 5 minutes. Have her pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, HOLD and open and close the bleed off valve found on front of slave. Initially she will have to pull the pedal back with her foot until it rebuilds pressure. Keep doing it...it will take 20 or so cycles. Make sure to top of the fluid reservoir or you will be reintroducing air into the system. When the pedal feels good, do it a few more times to ensure you get all the air out. I let the stuff just drip down after frustration getting a fluid line to stay put. No harm no foul again.
Don't get overwhelmed with the words...just read through it and trust me, this is very manageable. I know I just reworded Opel's instructions but I did it in my own words so maybe it'll be easier for the noobest of noobs to understand!
Good luck,
Jeremy.
As simple as possible here, and trust me, you are cabable:
All of below is referring to slave cylinder mounted to front of tranny on front right...you can see it just below and a little to the left of your radiator hoses (or hoes if you're a pimp)
1) get long socket extension, loosen and remove right top bolt (when facing car, this one holds the black bracket blocking your view of the actual fluid line), wait on the left one cause it'll hold the slave in place to loosen and remove the clutch line
2) use 2 wrenches to loosen and undo clutch line, not much will leak out...don't worry about it.
3) now take off the left bolt and remove the slave cylinder
4) perform your surgery to remove the checkvalve...use whatever method you want...putting a little cut in the edge to use a tool to pull up the ring is your best bet...this will take you 30 seconds and will let you skip the frustrations...it does no harm to functionality of the slave and unless you plan on a photoshoot of your slave on the car with your camera on macro mode...no one will be the wiser.
4) Now put everything back in minus the checkvalve (I hope this is obvious at this point).
5) Tell your girl to pause Maury on the DVR and come outside (is this just me?) for 5 minutes. Have her pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, HOLD and open and close the bleed off valve found on front of slave. Initially she will have to pull the pedal back with her foot until it rebuilds pressure. Keep doing it...it will take 20 or so cycles. Make sure to top of the fluid reservoir or you will be reintroducing air into the system. When the pedal feels good, do it a few more times to ensure you get all the air out. I let the stuff just drip down after frustration getting a fluid line to stay put. No harm no foul again.
Don't get overwhelmed with the words...just read through it and trust me, this is very manageable. I know I just reworded Opel's instructions but I did it in my own words so maybe it'll be easier for the noobest of noobs to understand!
Good luck,
Jeremy.
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Stickey (03-05-2016)
08-05-2009, 12:22 PM
#143
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
getting the ring and cap out is truly a pain so not sure who would want to spend thta time and dedication to resell for a small or tiny profit... as Opel said people buy a new one due to time
I bought a new one becaue I was not sure if my fat fingers would break anything.. I have a gift for breaking things
I bought a new one becaue I was not sure if my fat fingers would break anything.. I have a gift for breaking things
08-05-2009, 12:25 PM
#144
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Mod is intimidating, especially if your expertise stops at changing a bulb or applying a sticker.
As simple as possible here, and trust me, you are cabable:
All of below is referring to slave cylinder mounted to front of tranny on front right...you can see it just below and a little to the left of your radiator hoses (or hoes if you're a pimp)
1) get long socket extension, loosen and remove right top bolt (when facing car, this one holds the black bracket blocking your view of the actual fluid line), wait on the left one cause it'll hold the slave in place to loosen and remove the clutch line
2) use 2 wrenches to loosen and undo clutch line, not much will leak out...don't worry about it.
3) now take off the left bolt and remove the slave cylinder
4) perform your surgery to remove the checkvalve...use whatever method you want...putting a little cut in the edge to use a tool to pull up the ring is your best bet...this will take you 30 seconds and will let you skip the frustrations...it does no harm to functionality of the slave and unless you plan on a photoshoot of your slave on the car with your camera on macro mode...no one will be the wiser.
4) Now put everything back in minus the checkvalve (I hope this is obvious at this point).
5) Tell your girl to pause Maury on the DVR and come outside (is this just me?) for 5 minutes. Have her pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, HOLD and open and close the bleed off valve found on front of slave. Initially she will have to pull the pedal back with her foot until it rebuilds pressure. Keep doing it...it will take 20 or so cycles. Make sure to top of the fluid reservoir or you will be reintroducing air into the system. When the pedal feels good, do it a few more times to ensure you get all the air out. I let the stuff just drip down after frustration getting a fluid line to stay put. No harm no foul again.
Don't get overwhelmed with the words...just read through it and trust me, this is very manageable. I know I just reworded Opel's instructions but I did it in my own words so maybe it'll be easier for the noobest of noobs to understand!
Good luck,
Jeremy.
As simple as possible here, and trust me, you are cabable:
All of below is referring to slave cylinder mounted to front of tranny on front right...you can see it just below and a little to the left of your radiator hoses (or hoes if you're a pimp)
1) get long socket extension, loosen and remove right top bolt (when facing car, this one holds the black bracket blocking your view of the actual fluid line), wait on the left one cause it'll hold the slave in place to loosen and remove the clutch line
2) use 2 wrenches to loosen and undo clutch line, not much will leak out...don't worry about it.
3) now take off the left bolt and remove the slave cylinder
4) perform your surgery to remove the checkvalve...use whatever method you want...putting a little cut in the edge to use a tool to pull up the ring is your best bet...this will take you 30 seconds and will let you skip the frustrations...it does no harm to functionality of the slave and unless you plan on a photoshoot of your slave on the car with your camera on macro mode...no one will be the wiser.
4) Now put everything back in minus the checkvalve (I hope this is obvious at this point).
5) Tell your girl to pause Maury on the DVR and come outside (is this just me?) for 5 minutes. Have her pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, HOLD and open and close the bleed off valve found on front of slave. Initially she will have to pull the pedal back with her foot until it rebuilds pressure. Keep doing it...it will take 20 or so cycles. Make sure to top of the fluid reservoir or you will be reintroducing air into the system. When the pedal feels good, do it a few more times to ensure you get all the air out. I let the stuff just drip down after frustration getting a fluid line to stay put. No harm no foul again.
Don't get overwhelmed with the words...just read through it and trust me, this is very manageable. I know I just reworded Opel's instructions but I did it in my own words so maybe it'll be easier for the noobest of noobs to understand!
Good luck,
Jeremy.
08-05-2009, 01:01 PM
#145
Former Whyner
Mod is intimidating, especially if your expertise stops at changing a bulb or applying a sticker.
As simple as possible here, and trust me, you are cabable:
All of below is referring to slave cylinder mounted to front of tranny on front right...you can see it just below and a little to the left of your radiator hoses (or hoes if you're a pimp)
1) get long socket extension, loosen and remove right top bolt (when facing car, this one holds the black bracket blocking your view of the actual fluid line), wait on the left one cause it'll hold the slave in place to loosen and remove the clutch line
2) use 2 wrenches to loosen and undo clutch line, not much will leak out...don't worry about it.
3) now take off the left bolt and remove the slave cylinder
4) perform your surgery to remove the checkvalve...use whatever method you want...putting a little cut in the edge to use a tool to pull up the ring is your best bet...this will take you 30 seconds and will let you skip the frustrations...it does no harm to functionality of the slave and unless you plan on a photoshoot of your slave on the car with your camera on macro mode...no one will be the wiser.
4) Now put everything back in minus the checkvalve (I hope this is obvious at this point).
5) Tell your girl to pause Maury on the DVR and come outside (is this just me?) for 5 minutes. Have her pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, HOLD and open and close the bleed off valve found on front of slave. Initially she will have to pull the pedal back with her foot until it rebuilds pressure. Keep doing it...it will take 20 or so cycles. Make sure to top of the fluid reservoir or you will be reintroducing air into the system. When the pedal feels good, do it a few more times to ensure you get all the air out. I let the stuff just drip down after frustration getting a fluid line to stay put. No harm no foul again.
Don't get overwhelmed with the words...just read through it and trust me, this is very manageable. I know I just reworded Opel's instructions but I did it in my own words so maybe it'll be easier for the noobest of noobs to understand!
Good luck,
Jeremy.
As simple as possible here, and trust me, you are cabable:
All of below is referring to slave cylinder mounted to front of tranny on front right...you can see it just below and a little to the left of your radiator hoses (or hoes if you're a pimp)
1) get long socket extension, loosen and remove right top bolt (when facing car, this one holds the black bracket blocking your view of the actual fluid line), wait on the left one cause it'll hold the slave in place to loosen and remove the clutch line
2) use 2 wrenches to loosen and undo clutch line, not much will leak out...don't worry about it.
3) now take off the left bolt and remove the slave cylinder
4) perform your surgery to remove the checkvalve...use whatever method you want...putting a little cut in the edge to use a tool to pull up the ring is your best bet...this will take you 30 seconds and will let you skip the frustrations...it does no harm to functionality of the slave and unless you plan on a photoshoot of your slave on the car with your camera on macro mode...no one will be the wiser.
4) Now put everything back in minus the checkvalve (I hope this is obvious at this point).
5) Tell your girl to pause Maury on the DVR and come outside (is this just me?) for 5 minutes. Have her pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, HOLD and open and close the bleed off valve found on front of slave. Initially she will have to pull the pedal back with her foot until it rebuilds pressure. Keep doing it...it will take 20 or so cycles. Make sure to top of the fluid reservoir or you will be reintroducing air into the system. When the pedal feels good, do it a few more times to ensure you get all the air out. I let the stuff just drip down after frustration getting a fluid line to stay put. No harm no foul again.
Don't get overwhelmed with the words...just read through it and trust me, this is very manageable. I know I just reworded Opel's instructions but I did it in my own words so maybe it'll be easier for the noobest of noobs to understand!
Good luck,
Jeremy.
08-05-2009, 01:37 PM
#146
reword, in my own words = redundant.
LOL...I probably should have proof read more in high school.
Anyway, thanks and yes sir....for sure...HGTV too...she for some reason loves her Maury though. For me it's discovery and TLC and Speed.
LOL...I probably should have proof read more in high school.
Anyway, thanks and yes sir....for sure...HGTV too...she for some reason loves her Maury though. For me it's discovery and TLC and Speed.
08-08-2009, 08:00 AM
#147
did the mod. its easy if you remember to tap the cap down before pulling the ring.
i ended up breaking the ring and using some jb weld to hold the cap in. no big deal
but the car feels amazing. no more soft mushy bitch clutch pedal during high speed shifts. and no more waiting for the gears to kick in.
how many of you can chirp third?
im getting the power down a lot faster and driveability has improved. i can shift better than an automatic with no more jerking.
also, the clutch has more room to play when slipping to start moving.
i ended up breaking the ring and using some jb weld to hold the cap in. no big deal
but the car feels amazing. no more soft mushy bitch clutch pedal during high speed shifts. and no more waiting for the gears to kick in.
how many of you can chirp third?
im getting the power down a lot faster and driveability has improved. i can shift better than an automatic with no more jerking.
also, the clutch has more room to play when slipping to start moving.
08-09-2009, 07:43 PM
#151
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
it sucks doing it while the sc is sitting there...i did it from underneath...reattaching it is the hardest part lol... but its doable that way too
08-10-2009, 07:58 AM
#152
^^^I think I almost would prefer to have had a clearance issue than to have no supercharger...boo...poor me.
Lol...
Opel, you seriously installed your charger in 30 min. on the side of the road? Is there no fuel management or anything like that to deal with? Or you were already there...since you had just built the motor, right?...meaning...it was already pretty much ready for a plug and play?
Lol...
Opel, you seriously installed your charger in 30 min. on the side of the road? Is there no fuel management or anything like that to deal with? Or you were already there...since you had just built the motor, right?...meaning...it was already pretty much ready for a plug and play?
08-10-2009, 09:14 AM
#153
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
^^^I think I almost would prefer to have had a clearance issue than to have no supercharger...boo...poor me.
Lol...
Opel, you seriously installed your charger in 30 min. on the side of the road? Is there no fuel management or anything like that to deal with? Or you were already there...since you had just built the motor, right?...meaning...it was already pretty much ready for a plug and play?
Lol...
Opel, you seriously installed your charger in 30 min. on the side of the road? Is there no fuel management or anything like that to deal with? Or you were already there...since you had just built the motor, right?...meaning...it was already pretty much ready for a plug and play?
08-10-2009, 04:11 PM
#155
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
lol...when u first go from NA to those 4-5 psi of boost..u deff notice the big gain...but after a while, you get used to it..u forget how NA felt, and it starts to seem as if the sc was part of it, then u just wanna overwhelm ur current feel, by upping the power.. So honestly...if you can setup to squeeze all the 9-10 psi outta the blower..you'd be in well over 400 whp, with upgraded fuel system and AEM F/I-C, and that's pretty good!
08-10-2009, 09:23 PM
#156
So basically it's a bug that bites and keeps on biting until you spend all the money on it you have and the it's still not enough power. Dang...I guess I'll keep practicing the art of "this is good enough" for now. It ain't always easy though...lol.
08-10-2009, 09:39 PM
#157
Yes man...after removing it and installing it numerous times, it became a simple task that u don't even think about anymore... ACM its been installed since I first got the blowers, so if I take off the blower, there's no need to uninstall the ACM..its a matter of removing EGR valve, camshaft end cap, belt, TB, power steering pump fitting...I always had an extra TB, so that sits on the SC at all times whether its on or off the car, then slap the blower on..the longer belt, attach evey bolt, egr back, connect the intake tubing that always sits there, vac lines, maf sensor..and its done lol
Leave the EGR and camshaft cap and bracket all in place. instead remove the 5 allen head bolts on the blower shaft.
So much easier.
Pull the belts, 2 alernator screws, 5 hex on the bracket, and tranny mount, and loosen the rubber clams on the intake and TB, out she comes.
08-10-2009, 09:44 PM
#158
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Here's a hint.
Leave the EGR and camshaft cap and bracket all in place. instead remove the 5 allen head bolts on the blower shaft.
So much easier.
Pull the belts, 2 alernator screws, 5 hex on the bracket, and tranny mount, and loosen the rubber clams on the intake and TB, out she comes.
Leave the EGR and camshaft cap and bracket all in place. instead remove the 5 allen head bolts on the blower shaft.
So much easier.
Pull the belts, 2 alernator screws, 5 hex on the bracket, and tranny mount, and loosen the rubber clams on the intake and TB, out she comes.
08-11-2009, 07:36 PM
#159
so I am truly a moron... have the cylinder with the check valve removed... installed it.. pretty smooth.. but
I think I bled the clutch wrong cause my pedal has no movement at all... driving me nuts.. I think I need to bleed it again but just ran out of time today.. I am just hoping I did not break something on the cylinder cause that will piss me the off even though it will be my fault.. will see how tomorrow goes
I think I bled the clutch wrong cause my pedal has no movement at all... driving me nuts.. I think I need to bleed it again but just ran out of time today.. I am just hoping I did not break something on the cylinder cause that will piss me the off even though it will be my fault.. will see how tomorrow goes
08-11-2009, 08:52 PM
#160
what do you mean by "no movement"? The pedal won't come back or you're not able to push it in. If you damaged anything, it would be apparent. It's going to be something simple...don't worry.
Make sure you have tip of the slave rod in the fork "groove"...and make sure the other end is IN the slave cylinder.
Respond with what you're describing so we can figure this out.
Make sure you have tip of the slave rod in the fork "groove"...and make sure the other end is IN the slave cylinder.
Respond with what you're describing so we can figure this out.