02TLSfan

I decided to change my rear license plate light from the ugly yellow factory light to a super bright white cold cathode. Though this is a simple install I decided to take some pictures of the process and create DIY for those who aren't familiar with cathodes and hopefully make it simple enough to encourage beginners to attempt some simple mods to their cars. The light looks great and covers the whole plate unlike many pulg and play LEDs.

I ordered a pair of 4" white cathodes from http://www.oznium.com/cathodes for $7, they come 12V ready with a power transformer, good deals on all kinds of lights.

Installation Difficulty: Mentally Challenged(not making fun of the handicapped, just illustrating the ease of install)

Materials Needed:

-4" cathodes w/ power transformer(Oznium)
-15 Watt soldering iron or torch(Home Depot or Radio Shack)
-Wire cutter/stripper(Home Depot or Radio Shack)
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Clear Silicone Sealant(Home Depot)
-Rosin-Core solder(Radio Shack)
-Extra strength 3M double sided foam tape(Radio Shack)
-Pack of assorted shrink wrap, 3/8" and 1/4" needed(Radio Shack or Home Depot)
-Electrical tape(Home Depot or Radio Shack)
-Rubbing alcohol and paper towels

Installation Time: 20-30 Minutes

Total Time: About an hour

I take no responsibility for your mistakes this is merely a reference to how I did it.

Before you start, use a 9V battery and connect the wires to the positive and negative to test to make sure the light works before you go and cut out the factory light. Also make sure your factory light works prior to install.

Step 1: Weatherproof the cathodes

Eventhough the cathode and the transformer are going to be inside the bumper it is still a good idea to water-proof them. Take some silicone sealant, I used GE Silicone 2, but you can use any clear silicone sealant from the Paint section at Home Depot. Place silicone around the inside edges of the tube and the wires coming out the side; plug in the cathode and power wires to the transformer, place silicone around the sides of the transformer where the case comes together, and completely cover the ends where the wires plug in to seal the connections. You can see the silicone applied in the pictures and the 3M tape needed.




It will take about 30 minutes to an hour for the silicone to cure to the touch and a full 24 hours to fully cure. You can install after the silicone cures to the touch.

After the silicone cures to the touch, wrap the transformer and the connections in electrical tape. I wrapped the transformer 3 times over.



Step 2: Disassemble factory light harness

There are 2 screws that hold in the factory light harness; take them both out and wiggle the harness between the bumper and the license plate to free it



There is a ton of slack in the wiring so don't be afraid to pull out too much; if you get to the brown connector plug you've gone a little too far, but it's ok it just sets in the bumper so push it back a little.



Step 3: Solder the cathode to the factory wiring

Start by cutting the factory light harness away as close to the bulb as possible and stripping the ends about a 1/4" using the 18 gauge notch on your wire cutters. Do the same to the ends of the power wires coming from the transformer using the 20 gauge notch.



Take 1 piece of the 1/4" shrink wrap about 4" long and slide it over both wires from the transformer. Take 2 pieces of the 1/8" shrink wrap about 3" long and slide one over each wire coming from the transformer.

REMEMBER TO PUT THE SHRINK WRAP ON THE WIRES BEFORE YOU SOLDER THEM!

Twist the ends together. The black wires are negative; the red wires are positive.

For those who are new to soldering, hold the soldering iron to one side of the twisted ends, hold it there for a few seconds and then feed solder into the other side; when the wire braid becomes hot enough the solder will melt into it. Cover the connection until it is all silver from the solder.

Thumbnails of the torch and solder used. Click to make larger.




After the wires are soldered together, slide each of the 1/8" pieces of shrink wrap over the solder point and heat with a lighter or torch until tight; slide the 1/4" piece over the connections, you can also slide the end of the factory wire cover into the end of the 1/4" piece, shrink the same as the others.





Turn on you headlights and make sure the light turns on. If it doesn't, check your connections, soldered and plugged into the transformer. Hopefully you checked your cathode with a 9V battery as suggested earlier...

LIGHT!



Then wrap the shrink wrap in electrical wire a few times over.



Step 4: Clean and prepare inside of bumper, transformer and cathode

Take rubbing alcohol and some paper towels and clean the inside of the bumper where the factory light was, also clean the flat parts to the sides of it. Make sure all the dirt and crap is cleaned off and you can rub it with a paper towel and come up with no dirt. I had a new bumper installed in November and mine was filthy, so be prepared to use a lot of paper towels. Also clean the sides of the transformer and the cubed ends of the cathode.



Step 5: Install cathode and transformer using double sided foam tape

You can buy some extra strong 3M double sided tape at Radio Shack. Take one strip and cut 2 squares into the ends large enough to cover the square sides of the cathode ends. Use the remaining strip for the transformer. Tape does not have to look like it does on the transformer, i was using my last strip and had previously cut it for something else.





Install the cathode where the factory light was, with the tape face down; make sure the cathode spans the gap left by the factory light and not hidden behind the lip of the bumper. You should be able to see a little bit of the tape through the screw holes; a good way to center it as well.



Install the transformer to the left of the cathode, with the tape face down and push all wires back behind the license plate. Also check underneath the bumper to make sure the wires aren't sticking out, just push them back if they are. The arrow points to the transformer and you can barely see the wires in the pics.




Use a little silicone in the empty screw holes to keep water from getting on the tape and make it look a little cleaner. The picture is a little blurry, but you get the point.



Wait until dark or turn off the lights in your garage, turn on your headlights and check out your good work.

Pictures are taken in dark with no flash.




You're done!

Alternatively you could use zip ties through the screw holes to secure the cathode, but I prefer no zip ties to be seen anywhere, inside or out. An inline fuse wouldn't be a bad idea either since the cathode pulls about an extra amp.

I know this is a long DIY for a simple process, but I hope I have made it detailed and simple enough for just about anyone to use.
This process can be applied to other cathode installs like the trunk light or courtesy lights.

Comments are welcome.

Topher707

so is it too bright or just right? it looks like it will attract more attention than you want.

adamlee05

Could you post a pic from behind the car instead of above the bumper? Like...5 & 10 ft away plz?

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

Looks way too bright, I'll stick with the 5-LED 194 bulb. Good write-up though.

vzuptnguyen

great DIY but i think it attracts too much attention, the LED one is more than enough already

Acuracy02

Thanks for the write up. It does look awful bright. I have the single flat wide-angle LED that spreads to 130 degrees. It looks the exact same as the new Lexus license plate bulbs.

AMGala

iTrader: (4)

Acuracy, where'd you get the LED from?

mezzerTL-S

nice job and write up... but a little too bright for my taste

AMGala

iTrader: (4)

well we all know that many pictures in dim light can get over exposed, so you never know.

Leo Type-S

nice DIY. you should take pics at night!

02TLSfan

It's no brighter than the new Lexus plate lights. It's white light, I doubt I would have any trouble with it from the law.

Here's a night shot, no flash, exposure at -2.0. This is the closest I could get to how it really looks, I'm not a big camera guy so this is as good as it gets. It really isn't as overpoweringly bright as you might think, it just looks good.



Everyone who has seen it in person so far has been very impressed by the way it looks.

CJITTY

Nice DIY writeup, but I really don't want everyone to notice my plate?! Did you consider some PIAA superwhite wedge bulbs to get that whiter look? Not knocking you, just trying to understand the reasoning is all.

02type-s

^^^
I have a tinted cover on mine to darken it, I would rather it not stick out. But to each his own.

Acuracy02

http://autolumination.com/

02TLSfan

I like the look of the new Lexus plates, I was bored and decided to mess around with some cathodes because I'm installing some along with a bunch of other lights in someone's RSX this weekend.

In person it really isn't that bright, but that's subjective; I figure if someone's want to see my plates i.e., the cops, they're going to see it. Shit the new lasers they use here in Texas can read your plate from 1000 yards, so it doesn't really matter here.

I would catch more shit if I had it tinted or covered, I could put a spotlight on it and get in less trouble. In Texas we can't have a cover or tint over it, we can't even cover the word "Texas" on the plate or the state emblem in the center.

It can be a crazy state but I wouldn't live anywhere else....maybe Colorado....

roca619

Hey buddy great write up jus finished the install on my 03 tl and i used both lights instead of 1 came out great. For anyone worried about it coming out to bright it's not even all that bright jus right so if ur 2nd thinkin this mod think again great project with Ease on the pockets!!!

vypercat

i just ordered a set =) that and some ccfl angel eyes. i didn't even measure anything for figment. wish me luck!