much thanks to RR for the tranny fluid recommendation

(i didnt have my regular cam-so pics were taken with the V710 )

the first thing i had to do is remove the front underbody spoiler (2 bolts and 4 plastic push pins). and then remove the battery cover, battery, and air cleaner unit.





i used a torque wrench to loosen the fill plug first, then the drain plug...









i pumped the fluid back in with this pump that i finally found a napa. (you really dont need this-a long funnel would work just as well if not better)



the manual states 2.3L-i put in just a little more than this.

the manual also has very good diagrams showing where the plugs are.

i did not use the check plug-because i knew how much i had put in-i didnt think it was necessary (if i'm wrong please let me know!)

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it could be in my head, but i did notice a diffrence in shifting-i seem to be shifting a lot smoother----

--the fluid i removed was quite "shiny" with a good amount of crap at the bottom of the bucket---



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Thanks for taking the time to post such clear pics.

 

exellent post!

 

Can you post the torque specs for the service manual-challenged?

Don

 

i could not find the specs in the manual--

i tq'd them to aprox. 30

 

WTF - no torque values? No wonder dealership mechanics use an air wrench on every nut and bolt.

Don

 

so you simply drained and refilled? This is my first manual car. On my auto Accord, I D/R twice and called it a day. Will draining a MT get all of the old fluid (or the majority of it anyway) out of the tranny?

 

Yes it will. There's no extra fluid stored in other places, like an auto tranny with its torque convertor.

 

the manual states it holds 2.6qt / 2.3qt for the change. so that would leave .3qt

 

The service manual gives the following torque specs:
Drain plug 29 lbf-ft, 39 N-m, 4.0 kgf-m
Oil check bolt 8.7 lbf-ft, 12 N-m, 1.2 kgf-m
Oil filler plug 33 lbf-ft, 44 N-m, 4.5 kgf-m

The manual transmission fluid capacities:
At fluid change: 2.3 US qt, 2.2 L
At overhaul: 2.6 US qt, 2.5L

 

Again, thanks for posting. I like the details with pics. Will GARAGE it.

 

What happens when you have an Injen intake??? What milage??? I have 21,000, time to change???

 

 

i have about 16.5k at the time of change----

i so have to get a service manual---is there a place to get them that is cheaper than buying direct?

 

Helm Inc pretty much has a lock on the service manual business, so unless you could find a used one on ebay (not likely), they are the place to go. As most everyone has agreed, the prices for our service manual and electrical supplement are very reasonable.

 

this is true----time for an early xmas present

thanks!

 

This is a great thread..

What are the two plugs for underneath. One for drain (the larger hole) but what about the other? I thought you filled from under the hood.

Thanks

 

The second one is the oil check plug. You can remove that and sample the oil to see if it is dirty or burnt or whatever. It also says to fill the transmission until the fluid overflows, and then screw in the oil check plug. Kinda like the old rear end differential fill procedure.

 

Nice job - glad you liked the GMSFM - is your car green? It is the most underated color - has a kaleidoscope of flake colors, and changes upon viewing angle and time of day.

Here is the analysis
http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...ht=RR+Journals

Search on The RR Journals for more.

 

Do you need ramps for this ?

 

I can't find this part # 12377916 at any dealers around Boston

Can someone please post a link to an online company that has this fluid.

The worst part is that all of the guys at the service counter laugh when I tell them that I am putting it in an Acura. Like I am going to screw up my car or something. I trust RoadRage more than these wannabe mechanics


any info helps

thanks

chad

 

Just call any GM parts department and tell them you need GM Synchromesh Transmission Fluid - Friction Modified, they can look up the part number. It was about $11 a quart at the local Chevy dealer. I saw the guy had a Corvetter shirt and asked if he gave Corvette owners a discount and he took 20% off (I don't even own a Corvetter).

Use it, the stuff works great!

Don

 

the dealer i went to gave me a list of dealers around the area that had them in stock. you can ask the parts dept. for a list.

you do not have to take the battery off. you can reach it if you have an aftermarket CAI or by removing the air filter box.

 

I still recommend Specialty Formulations Autoglide (Same as GM Synchromesh) and MTL-P (recommend fluid for Honda/Acura apps, same viscosity as Honda MTF and Redline MTL) is only $42.70/gallon shipped from their website.


Michael

 

Do you really need to do all of those steps just to change the fluid?

 

It's not that hard. Some have skipped removing the airbox cover/battery with some clever tools. It's very straight forward, just take your time.

 

or if you have jack and stands + that special pump honda uses, you can just pump the new fluid in from the overflow hole slowly up to the bottom of the hole. that way you don't have to touch the top side at all. one less washer to replace.

 

No, you don't. When I did mine (outlined in an earlier post this year), the only two car parts I removed were the upper air filter housing enclosure and the plastic protection shield that covers the transaxle.

In retrospect, you don't even need to remove the upper air filter housing at all. Just loosen and raise it out of the way as though you were changing the air filter. I drove my car up on some homemade wooden ramps I have (on the downward slope of my driveway), then used a floor jack in the rear and a level along the bottom of the transmission to make sure the car was level for the draining.

Then just remove the fill bolt on the top of the tranny and the drain bolt at the bottom of the tranny so the old fluid can drain into your drainpan. When done, re-install the drain bolt (new aluminum washers) and torque to specs. Then pour in 2.3 quarts (as I recall) of the good stuff using a long funnel easily purchased at most any auto parts store. Put the fill bolt back in place (also new aluminum washer) and torque it down.

Re-install the parts you removed and you're done. I took my time and it took me an hour. It's without a doubt, the easiest and least messy manual tranny drain and refill I've ever done.

 

do you have to replace the washers?

if so...any part numbers and how much?

 

I didn't remove the battery and had no problem reaching the fill plug with a 10" extension.

 

You should replace the aluminum washers just as you do when you change your oil with your drainplug. Certainly doesn't hurt.

As for washer part numbers, I haven't a clue.. just tell the parts people at your local dealer what you need and they should be able to help you.

Most importantly, use a torque wrench. You do not want to strip the threads of the aluminum transmission case. Oh, washers are cheap.. maybe 25 cents each?

 

Really, this is a very simple and clean job. For those of you who have never had the pleasure of changing manual tranny fluid where you have to use a pump or squeeze bottle or tube to fill through the overflow hole, this is a cake walk.

Things to keep in mind when you do it. Warm up the transmission by driving the car a mile or two (maybe a little more. Make sure the car is level for the drain. As I mentioned, I used a floor jack and a level to obtain a perfect level for draining. This is important.

Once again, this is an easy task with the TL.

 

Where do you put the new fluid in? Underneath the airbox or underneath the car?

 

You put the lube in the top fill plug.
I used a 2 foot long extention and a swivel joint at the end, and did not have
to remove anything under the hood. I used a long tube and a funnel to put the new lube in.
My top fill plug was VERY tight, you may need to use more leverage, pipe on the ratchet, breaker bar, it will break loose with a crack.


I have not used new washers on the engine oil drain plug or the trans drain plug, and dont have any leaks.

My transmission is still shifting VERY nicely.
Sometime in the spring/summer, I will change it again and check its condition, the first batch was in for about 4000 miles with no signs of wear metal, it looked like new lube, so it was holding up well. We are getting close to 9000 miles on the car, and so far, no rattles or orther problems, and of late, I have been getting on it hard (at times), the motor has a lot of pep above 5000 rpm's!

Brett

 

Hi, I own a 2005 TL w/the 3rd gear shifting problem. I have 7000 miles and complained to the dealer and Acura customer service and they had no fix. After joining this forum I learned that replacing the trans fluid will take care of it, told the dealer and he never heard of this. I am bringing him copies of all these relative threads and plan to have them replace it at no charge. This new car should be perfect. Thanks for all the great posts.

 

My '04 manual TL never had this problem with 3rd gear. I changed my tranny fluid simply because this is a good thing to do with a new transmission. My tranny shifts VERY smooth with no problems and no having to force the shifter to make a gear change.

 

OK, I'm sold! GM it is.... Now has anyone seen a magnetic drain plug for the TL trany? I mean if you guys saw all those pieces in your lube. I thought, maybe the old magnetic drain plug trick?? Also I only have 3800 miles on my 06 TL. To early for synth?

 

The metal filings are not ferous, so a magnet won't help (I'm pretty certain of this). I suspect there may be a small amount of ferous material from the gears, but not much. The filings I saw were golden colored which would indicate synchronizers.

 

Well, at the last second I jumped ship! I went with RedLine MTF. From what I could find out it seem to be "The Best"...... Sure is sssmmmooottthhh......

 

Has anyone that changed their fluid to Honda MTF noticed any slippage?