NTP66

The shop that I had my Type-S tinted at also does ceramic and PFF, and I was considering ceramic. It’d be about $1200 for that, and I’m told it would last 2-5 years. I’m not sure which product they use, but how realistic would it be to expect closer to 4-5 years if the car is garage kept and driven under 5k miles per year? The thought of paying $50/month if it only lasted 2 years turns me off from even considering this, but 4 years…

mrgold35

Do you enjoy and have the ability to maintain the Type-S to your standards on a regular basis 365 days a year (microfiber wash/dry, foam cannon, wax, clay bar, decontaminate/hard water removal, color correct, etc...). I was able to do an entire weekend detailing my rides in my younger days; but, use ceramic coating and PPF to protect and lighten the load to get back to pristine condition after a normal 30-45 minute wash/dry. Having PPF/ceramic coating also helps keep the vehicle cleaner in-between cleanings and require less work to get back to show room conditions. I'm trading my weekend for a few hours of time to end up in the same place.

Going for either PPF or ceramic coating requires color correcting to a pristine factory fresh clearcoat shine. Using PPF/ceramic coating locks in that shine for 2-9 year ranges for ceramic coating (depends on type of coating, cleaning routine, and amount of layers applied) and +10 years for PPF like XPel/Suntec. I would shop around because PPF and ceramic coating has grown a lot in the last few years. Ceramic coating with graphene is advertise up to 7-9 years of protection compared to something like CQuartz finest for 3-5 year range.

They only downside with PPF/ceramic coating is you can only go touchless carwash or use microfiber wash/dry with ceramic soaps if you need to touch the vehicle. You will damage PPF/ceramic coating and have shine dulling micro scratches with spinning/dragging touch scrubbing drive thru carwashes.

NTP66

Thanks for the detailed reply. To be clear, I’m definitely only considering ceramic coating - no PFF. I just switched to Optimum no rinse, and plan on hand washing the car from here on out.

mrgold35

It doesn't matter if you ceramic coat or go for PPF because It is the same first step is to do color correction first. I wouldn't consider a ceramic coating option unless it includes color correction. The majority of the $1200 ceramic coating cost is the labor to color correct. Ceramic coating is softer than clear coat and will scratch way easier unless you microfiber wash with ceramic booster soaps and microfiber dry. Depending on local environment and hard/soft water, you might need to do clay bar, iron decon treatment, and might need to use a chemical spot removal (something like Chemical Guys HD spot remover) around 6-18 months down the road. Double-check with the installer because they might have a recommended maintenance routine that might include booster soaps, ceramic sealants, or procedures that will give you more protection longer.

I use Optimum no rinse in the winter in my heated garage with temps near/below freezing. It is a good product; but, I do use it exclusively to clean my MDX/RLX. I like to the Optimum no rinse in the same concentration in a Windex bottle to do spot cleaning and windows inside/out with a microfiber towel.

NTP66

I actually stopped by his shop this morning since I noticed some bubbles that never dissipated on the tint and spoke to him about it. He does color correction/buffing as part of his process, and since he's done work on both of our vehicles now and I'll be paying cash, it'd run me $950. I've seen other cars in his booth with ceramic coating, and they all look amazing. So, I guess I'm doing it.

mrgold35

Sorry, I had a slight typo in my previous response. I would ask your installer if they can do small custom PPF in certain areas. I've noticed I'm getting noticeable scratches behind my door handles from normal use on my Fathom Blue Pearl MDX with ceramic coating in that area. I have folding side mirrors; but, that is another area that seems to get a lot bug/debris strikes or gets bumped against (walking & squeezing between parked cars or other drivers opening their doors kinda thing).

MyGuti

I'd also ask what product of ceramic he is using

NTP66

Just got the car back from the shop - looks amazing in person. He did say that he'd like me to bring it back in 3 weeks, and then at the 6 month mark. His shop uses Ceramic Pro, FWIW.



I do have a question about cleaning and maintenance. He sent me a list of products he uses and recommends:

CARPRO Lift (pre-treat)
CARPRO Reset (wash)
3D Bead It Up Ceramic Coating Booster
3D Final Touch Quick Detail

My original plan was to stick with Optimum ONR for washing, which seems like I could do without the two CARPRO products. Do I still use the Optimum spray wax now? Or would the process then be Optimum ONR, 3D Bead It Up, and finally 3D Final Touch? Any advice would be appreciated.

mrgold35

I just use my Optimum ONR this morning on my MDX after a light shower the day before. I usually spray down with a hose first to knock off anything to limit scratching of the PPF/ceramic coating and then use Optimum ONR+microfiber drying towel afterwards. Optimum ONR does an excellent job because I did a full wash with Chemical Guys Si02 ceramic soap a few days earlier and applied Turtle Wax 53377 Hybrid graphene spray wax a month ago. I'm thinking you will get a slow build-up on your ceramic coating dulling the shine if you only use Optimum ONR?

I use Ceramic Pro on my RLX Sport Hybrid. They also have Ceramic Pro products for interior surfaces and the installer applied it for my MDX and RLX (I have to re-apply to the driver's seat every year because of extra usage).

I would start with the recommended products from your installer in-between the Optimum ONR washings. For my full washes, I like to use a hose foam cannon, bucket with grit guard, microfiber wash mitt, microfiber towel, wash microfiber often with liquid detergents and NO fabric softeners, hang dry or air only in dryer.

The CarPro and other products are designed to:
- can be a balance ph soap (gentle on all surfaces, won't strip away ceramic coating or boosters),
- provide an extra layer of shine/protection on top of the Ceramic Pro coating with the booster soap, and
- quick detail spray for spot cleaning and be another protection booster on top of the ceramic coating.
- Optimum ONR mixed in a spray bottle + microfiber is good for detail spray for bird droppings, bug guts, tar, windows inside/out, etc...
- "Might" need to clay bar and/or use a chemical spot remover if you start to get too much water spots or contaminate build up (can get build up with soft water)

The key to keeping that pristine ceramic coating shine is never ever touch the vehicle surface dry. Always touch wet and/or with soapy solution with microfiber to help the mitt/towel/applicator encapsulate the dirt to move away from the surface.

MyGuti

You don't have to use the products he recommended...
Basically any PH neutral soap can be used...its gentle enough to ensure the ceramic does not get stripped...

Also, you do not have to add a ceramic booster everytime! Thats very time consuming and honestly overkill....
My car was ceramic'd with Ceramic Pro as well, I used their Ceramic Care after every season....so after winter, I did a top off, after summer etc....
And my car still beeds like day 1.

Only other thing I would recommend is to foam the vehicle or have some sort of lubrication between your mitt and the paint...my car is an 07, but the paint on these "Hondas" is generally very soft and will scratch very easily....
And of course, use the correct method of washing (ie. 2 wash bucket method)

NTP66

Okay, so my routine every few weeks could still be to simply use Optimum ONR (spray panel first, then wash with sponge) and dry with a microfiber? Opting to use something like 3D Bead It Up every so often? Then, annually, use Ceramic Care? Dumb questions, I'm sure, but I want to get this right the first time.

As for the two bucket method, does that mean using a single bucket with a grit guard in place should be avoided with using ONR? I can do two buckets, but figured I'd ask.

mrgold35

I live in the southwest with dust, light sandy dirt, bugs, and pollen being the biggest issues for me (only 7-9 inches of precipitation per year, limited road salts in winter, sunny/dry/warm-hot most days). My vehicles are garage kept and will get dusty just sitting in the garage over a weekend and ONR is perfect for that.

The two bucket method with grit guard the way I use it is:
- water hose with plain water on jet setting to knock off any loose dust/dirt and start soaking process for bug guts (I have a whole house water softener)
- attach my Ryobi One 18v pressure washer with ceramic soap solution in bottle adapter to soak entire vehicle
- let soapy solution sit for a few minutes to loosen more dust/dirt/bugs
- rinse entire vehicle with clear water
- one bucket with soapy ceramic soap for microfiber wash mitt (I wash back/forth in the direction the wind flows over the vehicle)
- second bucket with plain water+grit guard to rinse microfiber wash mitt against grit guard to remove suspended dirt in soap
- use Ryobi pressure washer to apply soapy solution one section at a time first and use 2 bucket method for wash mitt (hood/fender, roof/glass, both side panels, rear)
- use the Ryobi pressure washer with soapy solution to help keep cleaned areas wet as I moved to other sections
- final rinse, pull into garage, and dry with microfiber towel (dry back/forth as the wind flows over vehicle)

Side Note: I only use products like the recommended 3D sealant, detailer, or spray booster a few times a year. The two bucket wash with ceramic soap works for me +95% of the time keeping the ceramic coating looking good.

I have a 3rd bucket with soap to do the rims, tires, and wheel wells first before doing the vehicle (use Ryobi pressure washer to keep the rims wet until I can dry with microfiber). I also have quick-connect on my water hose and Ryobi washer to make it easy to switch as needed. You could do a 2 bucket method with ONR (solution bucket along with clear water bucket with grit guards). I'm just a little chicken to use only ONR as my primary for anything other than light dust/dirt/pollen on the ceramic surface.

bilirubin

With both Rinseless Wash (and Soap wash), I'd always suggested pre-rinsing the vehicle to wash off any grit before any contact is made. Pressure washer ideally but even a garden hose is better than nothing. That way there is less debris on the surfaced that could get dragged by your wash media (wash mitt, sponge, pad).
A safe method would be to spray with ONR, then rinse off, then spray the ONR again, then contact wash.

NTP66

I know I sound like I'm trying to be super lazy, but to be honest, I really have no interest in pulling my hose from the backyard to the front for this, which is why I went the ONR route, lol. I have been using my Chemical Guys sprayer with the ONR before I actually touch the car with a sponge. Always planned on doing that, and it sounds like that is the right path. Appreciate everyone's replies in this thread, too.

@mrgold35 I'm in SE PA, so I don't see the dust and dirt that you would. Pollen at times in the middle of summer, but only if I leave the garage door open all day while I work outside or something.

mrgold35

I haven't tried; but, my Ryobi pressure sprayer is battery operated and has a hose attachment to use a bucket for the clean water or soap source. Might come in handy down the road if you have to remove stuck on salty road muck before using ONR and you don't have to drag out the hose.