TLX SH-AWD died on highway from engine start stop - Trans poped into N on its own
#1
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
TLX SH-AWD died on highway from engine start stop - Trans poped into N on its own
Hey guys,
I've been a bit off the grid here for the past year after having an absolutely abysmal experience with my local dealership I've been going to for the past 10+ years which I will never step foot into again.
However, that's another conversation within itself.
This morning while on the Garden State Parkway here in NJ I was in stop & go traffic. I had ACC activated following the car in front of me. As the car in front came to a stop, so did my car which then initiated the engine shutoff as part of the start/stop feature.
All was well until the car in front of me started moving again. As some of you may know with ACC feature, if the vehicle in front of you was stopped for more than a few seconds, you have to give the accelerator a little push to get ACC to resume again.
When I gave the accelerator a small push, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree beeping trying to restart the engine. It flashed "Shift to Park" which confused me at first. I tried restarting the engine but realized everything was still lit up as if it was in accessory mode but engine was still off.
I then realized the Transmission was in N. After fiddling around with hitting the Park button it finally shifted after a few times and i was able to completely shut everything off, then start the car again. I pulled over to the shoulder and the car was perfectly back to normal. Shut off & started several times with no issues. I then continued driving to work.
In retrospect, it appears that the transmission popped out of Drive and into Neutral on its own during the engine restart. This transmission was recently replaced a few months ago and this is the first time I've ever experience this issue with this vehicle after 55K miles.
I called up the new dealership that I've been dealing with that replaced the transmission and they said I can drop it off today to look at it.
Anyone else with SH-AWD and ACC ever have this happen before? It was very bizarre yet troubling that it happened.
I've been a bit off the grid here for the past year after having an absolutely abysmal experience with my local dealership I've been going to for the past 10+ years which I will never step foot into again.
However, that's another conversation within itself.
This morning while on the Garden State Parkway here in NJ I was in stop & go traffic. I had ACC activated following the car in front of me. As the car in front came to a stop, so did my car which then initiated the engine shutoff as part of the start/stop feature.
All was well until the car in front of me started moving again. As some of you may know with ACC feature, if the vehicle in front of you was stopped for more than a few seconds, you have to give the accelerator a little push to get ACC to resume again.
When I gave the accelerator a small push, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree beeping trying to restart the engine. It flashed "Shift to Park" which confused me at first. I tried restarting the engine but realized everything was still lit up as if it was in accessory mode but engine was still off.
I then realized the Transmission was in N. After fiddling around with hitting the Park button it finally shifted after a few times and i was able to completely shut everything off, then start the car again. I pulled over to the shoulder and the car was perfectly back to normal. Shut off & started several times with no issues. I then continued driving to work.
In retrospect, it appears that the transmission popped out of Drive and into Neutral on its own during the engine restart. This transmission was recently replaced a few months ago and this is the first time I've ever experience this issue with this vehicle after 55K miles.
I called up the new dealership that I've been dealing with that replaced the transmission and they said I can drop it off today to look at it.
Anyone else with SH-AWD and ACC ever have this happen before? It was very bizarre yet troubling that it happened.
#2
Hello,
So i have a 15 TLX SH-AWD. Starting a couple months ago, I noticed at night when my engine shut off at a red light once in a while when restarting my headlights would flicker like it was struggling to restart when I hit the gas. (It does it about 1 in 20 times). Last month, I experienced the same thing as you did when it tried restarting and it went into neutral and shut off the car and I had to restart it.
I work at an Acura dealer in the sales dept, so I brought it in and they checked my battery and a couple other things and they didn't find anything out. My car has not stalled on me again, just the once, but still does the occasional struggle to restart so next week I plan to drop it off again and see if they can relook at it. I spoke with a couple techs and heard a couple things, one said it may be battery is getting old, another said maybe the starter. Will keep you posted.
So i have a 15 TLX SH-AWD. Starting a couple months ago, I noticed at night when my engine shut off at a red light once in a while when restarting my headlights would flicker like it was struggling to restart when I hit the gas. (It does it about 1 in 20 times). Last month, I experienced the same thing as you did when it tried restarting and it went into neutral and shut off the car and I had to restart it.
I work at an Acura dealer in the sales dept, so I brought it in and they checked my battery and a couple other things and they didn't find anything out. My car has not stalled on me again, just the once, but still does the occasional struggle to restart so next week I plan to drop it off again and see if they can relook at it. I spoke with a couple techs and heard a couple things, one said it may be battery is getting old, another said maybe the starter. Will keep you posted.
#3
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
Hello,
So i have a 15 TLX SH-AWD. Starting a couple months ago, I noticed at night when my engine shut off at a red light once in a while when restarting my headlights would flicker like it was struggling to restart when I hit the gas. (It does it about 1 in 20 times). Last month, I experienced the same thing as you did when it tried restarting and it went into neutral and shut off the car and I had to restart it.
I work at an Acura dealer in the sales dept, so I brought it in and they checked my battery and a couple other things and they didn't find anything out. My car has not stalled on me again, just the once, but still does the occasional struggle to restart so next week I plan to drop it off again and see if they can relook at it. I spoke with a couple techs and heard a couple things, one said it may be battery is getting old, another said maybe the starter. Will keep you posted.
So i have a 15 TLX SH-AWD. Starting a couple months ago, I noticed at night when my engine shut off at a red light once in a while when restarting my headlights would flicker like it was struggling to restart when I hit the gas. (It does it about 1 in 20 times). Last month, I experienced the same thing as you did when it tried restarting and it went into neutral and shut off the car and I had to restart it.
I work at an Acura dealer in the sales dept, so I brought it in and they checked my battery and a couple other things and they didn't find anything out. My car has not stalled on me again, just the once, but still does the occasional struggle to restart so next week I plan to drop it off again and see if they can relook at it. I spoke with a couple techs and heard a couple things, one said it may be battery is getting old, another said maybe the starter. Will keep you posted.
#5
Hello,
So i have a 15 TLX SH-AWD. Starting a couple months ago, I noticed at night when my engine shut off at a red light once in a while when restarting my headlights would flicker like it was struggling to restart when I hit the gas. (It does it about 1 in 20 times). Last month, I experienced the same thing as you did when it tried restarting and it went into neutral and shut off the car and I had to restart it.
I work at an Acura dealer in the sales dept, so I brought it in and they checked my battery and a couple other things and they didn't find anything out. My car has not stalled on me again, just the once, but still does the occasional struggle to restart so next week I plan to drop it off again and see if they can relook at it. I spoke with a couple techs and heard a couple things, one said it may be battery is getting old, another said maybe the starter. Will keep you posted.
So i have a 15 TLX SH-AWD. Starting a couple months ago, I noticed at night when my engine shut off at a red light once in a while when restarting my headlights would flicker like it was struggling to restart when I hit the gas. (It does it about 1 in 20 times). Last month, I experienced the same thing as you did when it tried restarting and it went into neutral and shut off the car and I had to restart it.
I work at an Acura dealer in the sales dept, so I brought it in and they checked my battery and a couple other things and they didn't find anything out. My car has not stalled on me again, just the once, but still does the occasional struggle to restart so next week I plan to drop it off again and see if they can relook at it. I spoke with a couple techs and heard a couple things, one said it may be battery is getting old, another said maybe the starter. Will keep you posted.
#7
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
I just heard back from the dealer saying they found 2 codes that were thrown in the history from the incident yesterday morning. Here's the exact text message update:
"Hi, so the tech scanned the vehicle and found a few codes and the fix was a software update."
When I asked what the two codes that they found indicate here's the answer:
"There were two codes that were related to the symptoms you relayed to me last night. One of which was related to the transmission staying in gear too long and the other code was related to the vehicle shifting into neutral and the transmission indicator comes on and wont let you shift into any other gear until the vehicle is shut off."
After asking what does the software update change to help with those two issues, here's the response:
"Yes, the one update will repair the way the transmission shifts and the other is whats called an idle re-learn which is where the car re-learns and adapts to the way you drive the vehicle"
They said its ready to be picked up after the software update.
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#8
Interesting - I just had the same issue. 2015 SH-AWD Advance Package. Just got the car about a month ago w/ 50k miles. I suspect original battery - and am suspecting the dealer will tell me I need a new battery (and guessing they won't cover it, as batteries are excluded from CPO warranty). Keep us posted!
#9
Some Guy Who Loves Cars
You guys experienced TSB 15-034.
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B15-034.PDFIf I were you, I would check my VIN and read up on the rest of the TSBs related to odd or lousy ZF9 behavior. You may be entitled to other fixes if it chirps, hesitates, etc. Heck, if you are a low VIN and you sense any hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, you should get a new tranny under my favorite TSB 15-040. Do anything you can to get the original ZF9 replaced if it’s an early edition. Those are nothing but problems.
#10
You guys experienced TSB 15-034.
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B15-034.PDFIf I were you, I would check my VIN and read up on the rest of the TSBs related to odd or lousy ZF9 behavior. You may be entitled to other fixes if it chirps, hesitates, etc. Heck, if you are a low VIN and you sense any hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, you should get a new tranny under my favorite TSB 15-040. Do anything you can to get the original ZF9 replaced if it’s an early edition. Those are nothing but problems.
#11
Some Guy Who Loves Cars
Eventually all of us will be out of warranty. Some of us already are. Comprehensive is 4yr/50k and powertrain is 6year/70k. Once we pass those thresholds, I presume that reading these codes and updating software is going to be on us, every, single, time. I would want to nip a bad tranny in the bud before reaching that point.
#12
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#13
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
Oh I see that part now. Totally missed it. I agree and certainly would have expected all the software was updated during the tranny replacement. That technician would have to be some sort of noob to replace the tranny and not update the ECM/TCM/PCM software. That stuff is laid out right in the TSB. What OP described is language practically right off the TSB, new tranny notwithstanding. My hopes in reading this thread are that the code thrown by OEM 15ZF9s wasn't some mechanical glitch that carried over to the replacement ZF9s. I've read here (not sure if rumor or truth) that some 15 owners are getting rebuilt 15ZF9s and some are getting the 16+ZF9s in their 15s. Maybe OP got a rebuilt one? Whatever the case, now I'll know what happened if my dashboard lights up and the tranny is in N. Any more than one or two of those events and I would discuss another replacement with my dealer due to safety, quality and reliability concerns.
Eventually all of us will be out of warranty. Some of us already are. Comprehensive is 4yr/50k and powertrain is 6year/70k. Once we pass those thresholds, I presume that reading these codes and updating software is going to be on us, every, single, time. I would want to nip a bad tranny in the bud before reaching that point.
Eventually all of us will be out of warranty. Some of us already are. Comprehensive is 4yr/50k and powertrain is 6year/70k. Once we pass those thresholds, I presume that reading these codes and updating software is going to be on us, every, single, time. I would want to nip a bad tranny in the bud before reaching that point.
and yes they were trying to charge me the $139 diagnostic fee until I started questioning why these updates were not applied during the recent tranny replacement, they immediately said the fee was dropped. So I think you’re right, they did not update the ECU after replacement.
#14
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
You guys experienced TSB 15-034.
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B15-034.PDFIf I were you, I would check my VIN and read up on the rest of the TSBs related to odd or lousy ZF9 behavior. You may be entitled to other fixes if it chirps, hesitates, etc. Heck, if you are a low VIN and you sense any hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, you should get a new tranny under my favorite TSB 15-040. Do anything you can to get the original ZF9 replaced if it’s an early edition. Those are nothing but problems.
#15
Some Guy Who Loves Cars
Welp, this happened to me last week too, exactly as described by reddogTL and spoiler900. ACC brought car to stop. I don’t recall if I hit resume or tapped the gas pedal, but it stalled, car got completely jolted and dashboard lit up. Quite a flustering experience in traffic. My brand new tranny took a huge hit when engine failed to start. Jerked the crap out of the car. Surprised the pawl or whatever locked it up survived. Took me about 30 seconds to realize what happened, go through the process to get going, shift to P, shut off, start back up, shift to D and start moving again all the while getting honked at.
Took to dealer for fear of some real damage or codes thrown. They tested the battery per the glass lattice procedure. Checked out okay. Did the relearn and sent me on my way. I hope it doesn’t happen again mostly for the concern of doing real damage to the drivetraiin.
My love of this car is waning. I’m starting to wonder every week what is going to happen next and whether I’m going to make it to where I’m going (or home). Any more stalls or tranny drops will make me hate this thing real quick. 6 months in, I can’t believe this is a Honda product and my mild buyer’s remorse is turning to serious buyer’s remorse.
Took to dealer for fear of some real damage or codes thrown. They tested the battery per the glass lattice procedure. Checked out okay. Did the relearn and sent me on my way. I hope it doesn’t happen again mostly for the concern of doing real damage to the drivetraiin.
My love of this car is waning. I’m starting to wonder every week what is going to happen next and whether I’m going to make it to where I’m going (or home). Any more stalls or tranny drops will make me hate this thing real quick. 6 months in, I can’t believe this is a Honda product and my mild buyer’s remorse is turning to serious buyer’s remorse.
Last edited by someguy11; 01-20-2019 at 07:10 AM.
#16
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
Welp, this happened to me last week too, exactly as described by reddogTL and spoiler900. ACC brought car to stop. I don’t recall if I hit resume or tapped the gas pedal, but it stalled, car got completely jolted and dashboard lit up. Quite a flustering experience in traffic. My brand new tranny took a huge hit when engine failed to start. Jerked the crap out of the car. Surprised the pawl or whatever locked it up survived. Took me about 30 seconds to realize what happened, go through the process to get going, shift to P, shut off, start back up, shift to D and start moving again all the while getting honked at.
Took to dealer for fear of some real damage or codes thrown. They tested the battery per the glass lattice procedure. Checked out okay. Did the relearn and sent me on my way. I hope it doesn’t happen again mostly for the concern of doing real damage to the drivetraiin.
My love of this car is waning. I’m starting to wonder every week what is going to happen next and whether I’m going to make it to where I’m going (or home). Any more stalls or tranny drops will make me hate this thing real quick. 6 months in, I can’t believe this is a Honda product and my mild buyer’s remorse is turning to serious buyer’s remorse.
Took to dealer for fear of some real damage or codes thrown. They tested the battery per the glass lattice procedure. Checked out okay. Did the relearn and sent me on my way. I hope it doesn’t happen again mostly for the concern of doing real damage to the drivetraiin.
My love of this car is waning. I’m starting to wonder every week what is going to happen next and whether I’m going to make it to where I’m going (or home). Any more stalls or tranny drops will make me hate this thing real quick. 6 months in, I can’t believe this is a Honda product and my mild buyer’s remorse is turning to serious buyer’s remorse.
I'm really turned off by Acura lately between transmission issues, highway vibration issues, and OEM rotors prone to warping easily. I've been driving nothing but Acura's since my first one in 2007 and I think this is my last. Coincidentally, my first Honda was an 03 Accord I bought used in 05 with 40K miles. It also needed a new transmission before 45K miles. They all have been my daily driver and I don't abuse them with all maintenance service at the dealer. I think its an omen telling me something.
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someguy11 (03-26-2019)
#17
I've also experienced the same issue - and I'm certain it's the battery. Acura also tested my battery and said it's OK, but quite frankly I just don't trust they are doing it correctly, or if they are that the results are accurate.
Mine did it 'once', then was fine for awhile, but has gotten progressively worse. I know try to always turn it off but sometimes forget and can just hear even if it does start it's struggling. I have a 2015 w/ original battery. Ironically the car starts perfectly, even in the brutal cold (polar vortex) we had in the Northeast it always started perfect from cold - but obviously all of the electronics running while the car is on must be much more of a draw. I'm just procrastinating the expensive battery option (not covered by my warranty) - even aftermarket batteries are pricey.
I hate to 'speculate' on the cause of an issue I haven't yet resolved, but seeing the slow decline in the ability for the car start leads me strongly to believe it's just a battery on its way out. I also believe the shifting out of drive is a safety feature - you can't start the car while it's in drive - that could be potentially dangerous. Now why it would shift to neutral vs. park I'm not sure - but I will say it's consistent in my car when it stalls - and it does make for a frustrating and embarrassing situation as in best scenario it's about 20-30 seconds of fiddling in a panic to get the car to start. And 30 seconds is an eternity when a light turns green and a line of traffic is behind you.
Get that battery replaced if it's more than a few years old and I'm sure you can check this one off your list!
Mine did it 'once', then was fine for awhile, but has gotten progressively worse. I know try to always turn it off but sometimes forget and can just hear even if it does start it's struggling. I have a 2015 w/ original battery. Ironically the car starts perfectly, even in the brutal cold (polar vortex) we had in the Northeast it always started perfect from cold - but obviously all of the electronics running while the car is on must be much more of a draw. I'm just procrastinating the expensive battery option (not covered by my warranty) - even aftermarket batteries are pricey.
I hate to 'speculate' on the cause of an issue I haven't yet resolved, but seeing the slow decline in the ability for the car start leads me strongly to believe it's just a battery on its way out. I also believe the shifting out of drive is a safety feature - you can't start the car while it's in drive - that could be potentially dangerous. Now why it would shift to neutral vs. park I'm not sure - but I will say it's consistent in my car when it stalls - and it does make for a frustrating and embarrassing situation as in best scenario it's about 20-30 seconds of fiddling in a panic to get the car to start. And 30 seconds is an eternity when a light turns green and a line of traffic is behind you.
Get that battery replaced if it's more than a few years old and I'm sure you can check this one off your list!
#18
Despite having very few issues with my TLX thus far (SH-AWD V6, no vibrations, perfectly smooth), just the battery issue, a bug with the remote start and the auto heated seats (adv. package) and taillight condensation (replaced under warranty) - it's disappointing to read so many negative posts. I had a 2005 MDX that had a transmission replaced at 100k miles (under warranty), and now a 2012 MDX that just had the pistons and rings replaced at 105,000 (goodwill repair). My 2012 MDX also has had some intermittent transmissions issues (shudder), with the latest being a software update which seems to have fixed the problem.
From one respect I'm happy most of my major issues were all covered, but it's disappointing they occurred in the first place. I had a 2004 Lexus until about 6 months ago - it was an RX330 with 140k miles on it - never a single issue. However, I also had a 2010 Lexus IS250 which burned oil as bad as the 2012 MDX. Lastly, my wife wants a large SUV - reading the Escalade, Denali, and Tahoe forums makes us seem like life is pretty good.
From one respect I'm happy most of my major issues were all covered, but it's disappointing they occurred in the first place. I had a 2004 Lexus until about 6 months ago - it was an RX330 with 140k miles on it - never a single issue. However, I also had a 2010 Lexus IS250 which burned oil as bad as the 2012 MDX. Lastly, my wife wants a large SUV - reading the Escalade, Denali, and Tahoe forums makes us seem like life is pretty good.
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someguy11 (03-26-2019)
#19
Some Guy Who Loves Cars
I've shared my experience elsewhere (which is the same as yours) and I agree reddogTL. My TLX has had more issues than every other Honda, Subaru and Toyota I've owned combined. I hope I'm out of the woods now with my new tranny, battery, VCM muzzled and highway vibration minimized, but I do need rotors resurfaced now with about 40k on the odometer. Brakes are pulsing pretty badly. I just don't understand how some TLXs are so problematic and some aren't. When I'm behind the wheel, I try focusing on the great things about my car rather than get upset about the issues.
jvah1980 I'm with your write up too. I'm certain the stall was battery related as my OEM was about 4 years old. Acura tested and it passed, but I replaced anyway. Not worth another stall. The failure mode on these AGM is unlike typical batteries. I think they just reach a voltage or current threshold where they simply fail to start the car without sluggish starts leading up to that point. It hasn't stalled since I dropped in a new battery. My TLX stalling inspired me to go get an OBDII reader so I don't have to run to the dealership the next time it does something wonky like this. Plus my warranty is about up and they will start charging me the $95 or $120 fee to diagnose (plug theirs in). I'd rather have my own to ensure no codes after these events.
The TLX is truly a conundrum to me. It does a ton of stuff between good and great. It is mostly awesome. But the quality issues and ongoing vibration will get me off Honda unless this car becomes ultra reliable moving forward. I already started looking at Siennas and GXs to replace our Odyssey. I spend a lot of my windshield time wondering what life would be like had I gone with an ES rather than my TLX. Since I "just" bought it a year ago, there is no point in me dwelling on that for the next couple years.
jvah1980 I'm with your write up too. I'm certain the stall was battery related as my OEM was about 4 years old. Acura tested and it passed, but I replaced anyway. Not worth another stall. The failure mode on these AGM is unlike typical batteries. I think they just reach a voltage or current threshold where they simply fail to start the car without sluggish starts leading up to that point. It hasn't stalled since I dropped in a new battery. My TLX stalling inspired me to go get an OBDII reader so I don't have to run to the dealership the next time it does something wonky like this. Plus my warranty is about up and they will start charging me the $95 or $120 fee to diagnose (plug theirs in). I'd rather have my own to ensure no codes after these events.
The TLX is truly a conundrum to me. It does a ton of stuff between good and great. It is mostly awesome. But the quality issues and ongoing vibration will get me off Honda unless this car becomes ultra reliable moving forward. I already started looking at Siennas and GXs to replace our Odyssey. I spend a lot of my windshield time wondering what life would be like had I gone with an ES rather than my TLX. Since I "just" bought it a year ago, there is no point in me dwelling on that for the next couple years.
Last edited by someguy11; 03-26-2019 at 07:15 AM.
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reddogTL (03-28-2019)
#20
Volvo Defector
Thread Starter
Despite having very few issues with my TLX thus far (SH-AWD V6, no vibrations, perfectly smooth), just the battery issue, a bug with the remote start and the auto heated seats (adv. package) and taillight condensation (replaced under warranty) - it's disappointing to read so many negative posts. I had a 2005 MDX that had a transmission replaced at 100k miles (under warranty), and now a 2012 MDX that just had the pistons and rings replaced at 105,000 (goodwill repair). My 2012 MDX also has had some intermittent transmissions issues (shudder), with the latest being a software update which seems to have fixed the problem.
From one respect I'm happy most of my major issues were all covered, but it's disappointing they occurred in the first place. I had a 2004 Lexus until about 6 months ago - it was an RX330 with 140k miles on it - never a single issue. However, I also had a 2010 Lexus IS250 which burned oil as bad as the 2012 MDX. Lastly, my wife wants a large SUV - reading the Escalade, Denali, and Tahoe forums makes us seem like life is pretty good.
From one respect I'm happy most of my major issues were all covered, but it's disappointing they occurred in the first place. I had a 2004 Lexus until about 6 months ago - it was an RX330 with 140k miles on it - never a single issue. However, I also had a 2010 Lexus IS250 which burned oil as bad as the 2012 MDX. Lastly, my wife wants a large SUV - reading the Escalade, Denali, and Tahoe forums makes us seem like life is pretty good.
someguy11: The brakes pulsing is exactly what is going on with my vehicle too. One of them is definitely warped. I've had that same problem with every single Honda/Acura I have ever owned going back to 05. I don't know if they skimp out on cheaper rotors or what but when it was time to replace my brakes I always spent extra money to get after market rotors that were better quality, then the issue goes away.
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someguy11 (03-28-2019)
#21
I do just want to update this thread - I did replace my battery with a Duralast Platinum from AutoZone ($200) - and engine-idle stop seems perfect now. I still prefer not using it - but at least I don't have to be paranoid if I forget to shut it off the car will stall in the middle of the intersection.
#22
FYI, reddogTL and someguy11, it has nothing to do with the fact that you were both on ACC, because it also happens even without being on cruise control; the regular Stop-Start does it, which is as abnormal as if on ACC.
Here, in Canada, temperatures may drop significantly way below the 0 celcius mark, but cold weather should have nothing to do with this anyways because cars should be built to take it. Since it happened to me on temperatures of +11, 0, -1, -4 and -13 celcius, it proves cold is not related.
That said, has anyone notice if turning to OFF their ventilation (fan) allows the Stop-Start feature to activate, while activating the fan cancels the ability to Stop-Start?
#23
I had the same thing happen to my 2018 Advance. Multiple times, it stalled on restart from the auto stop/start, and there were always weak restarts that preceded it. My dealer replaced the battery once with no impact, but the second time I brought it in, they found a 0.5V ground on the battery cable. No problems since.
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