CJN

Hey Everyone,

Brand new to the boards here and I cannot for the life of me find answers to a couple of audio issues I am having after having 1300watt Amp plus two 12" subs, four 6.5 inch speakers, and a 6 channel amp installed. Additionally, they had to install a signal converter.

I also just wanted to document the problems I am having
and I will post the solutions if we find them since I am sure there are plenty of you out their who will or have run into these issue. I am going back to the shop tomorrow where the installer will try and fix the issues. Here are some of the issues the audio shop can't figure out and I hoping someone can help here:

1. Speaker Hissing/White Noise
There is a constant hissing coming from my speakers even with the radio/audio powered off. The only way it stops is if the car is completely off, it is an aweful frequency and very fatiguing on the ears. I am reading that it may be a grounding problem or an issue with the factory amp (which has been compelety bypassed on my case) but haven't seen or read anything definitive.

2. Bluetooth/ANC
There are two ANC microphones that need to be disconnected or a terrible humming will come from the subwoofer. The installer was easily able to disconnect the rear ANC microphone no problem. The front ANC microphones wiring is bundled together with the Bluetooth microphones wiring meaning if you unplug the whole wiring bundle you will get disconnect ANC and the Bluetooth microphone. I have read that you can turn off ANC through the settings but it will revert every time your turn your car back on. I am being told that one of the wires is will need to cut from the front bundle but they are not sure which wire it is.

Has anyone else run into any of these issues or have any ideas?

Thanks in advance everyone

Bchester6

It's probably a grounding problem esp. if when you accelerate the whine increases and becomes more noticeable. The whine is terribly annoying but should be fixable. Can you please tell us what your equipment is (brand, model, etc...)?

marxw13

The hiss is not a grounding problem, its because of the factory amp. Its impossible that your factory amp was bypassed because if you unplug it the whole touch screen goes inoperative. The only way to integrate an amplifier is to interrupt the outgoing signal from the amp, thus it is still sending out a high level signal into your aftermarket amp. Check out my thread 15 TLX Custom Audio Build and you will see how I interrupted the output. I am using a high end audio processor and still can't eliminate all the hiss. As far as the ANC, you dont need to disconnect the mics individually just disconnect the whole ANC module which is easily accessible under the glove box.

01LSi

Won't amplifying further an already amplified system (the oem one) bring prominence to the factory amplifiers flaws (in this case maybe that it doesn't have a low noise floor?)

I have personally noticed switching from a polk amplifier and speakers to an alpine amp and speakers that the alpine didn't have audible sound that sounded like "I'm always on even though I'm not playing you can hear me". Anecdotal, and I know it can also be related to grounding as others have mentioned more commonly but in my experience if the equipment is crappy enough that can happen

The thing I'm still not understanding is why can't we just technically tap into the wires pre outs specifically for the audio channels and keep it plugged in, instead of tapping into them after the amplifier? I saw your picture in your other thread, and if the furthest left harness is the harness coming from the stereo then there might be only unfortunately be FR and FL speakers channels in that harness as your picture seems to match the EWD diagram for my model. The harness coming from the stereo to the amplifier looks to have a total of 8-9 wires. Which for the EWD diagram based on my VIN for the 4 cyl non tech non nav unit, shows that 4 of those 9 wires are FR+- & FL+- then the harness coming out of the amp expand to all channels.

However in higher tech packages the EWD shows the pre amp harness coming from the stereo with the rest of the speaker system wires before reaching the factory amplifier.

Which begs the question ... can you expand 2 line level pre out channels into 6 and what specific device would do it? That would at least be pre amp and not impossible right?

01LSi

Or the other question would be how do you amplify the factory amps output without crappy sound and a high noise floor?

01LSi

Here's exactly what I'm talking about. The pre amp wiring for my specific VIN seems to match the image you posted. Which means the pre amp lines only provide the front 2 channels and no other channels

01LSi

How would someone go about tapping into just those two channels and then turning them into 5 or 6 channels? Which devices could make that happen? Seems like you would lose fader capabilities entirely...

marxw13

You could turn your 2 channels into 6 using a processor like the one I'm using. However, here's the problem with that: the processor, or at least the one I'm using, is at the mercy of the signal frequencies it is recieving. The front speakers actually run surprisingly full range if you look at an RTA so I suppose it could work but lets say they are lacking in low frequency signal, then your output would also lack. That's why I ran all speaker signals back to my processor including tweeters and factory sub output. But yes a processor will allow you to turn 2 into up to 10 in my case. As far as interrupting the signal pre amp, the signal has to go from the head unit into the factory amp without interuption and I guess its just a matter of I always learned to cut the wire and run 2 sets of speedwire back to my amp. One for the input side and one back from the amp and out to the speakers. So I suppose if you just tapped into the pre amp side rather than cut it it may work. Thats a good question that actually gets me thinking a lot lol but I'm satisfied with my result but I'm sure you could tell by the pics I'm a heavy bass guy. I know sound quality but my priority was bass and finding a good balance and I achieved that despite the slight pink noise. I installed a switch so I can shut off my amplifiers when I'm not listening to get rid of the hiss.

marxw13

Keep in mind too that with modern vehicles its getting more and more difficult to integrate aftermarket audio products and get a good result. Manufacturers are working on solutions but its a tricky art. Me personally I have alot to learn but I work with a veteran tech that's always on the cutting edge of aftermarket tech and techniques and even he told me he generally sees some hiss when integrating with modern factory head units.

Bchester6

Input signal is important to know here. Is the preamp signal a balanced low voltage signal or is it a high level (processed) signal? Based on my experience with most Acura base models, including my own, is that this is a "balanced" low level signal which is more appropriate for achieving sound quality than a post amp signal which will undoubtedly be a high level/speaker level signal. Having components that aren't capable of receiving this signal will only further the noise issues. This includes most LOC's but yes they do make "balanced" line out converters that can appropriately convert the signal to the traditional low level so your amplifier can work properly. Some of the better amps will have the capabilities of differential balanced inputs which would only require simple soldering of RCA plugs to the existing speaker leads coming from your HU but this is best case scenario though. There is a great write up in the TL section about these same issues that plagued their models and despite all the fancy processors and gadgets that were added to eliminate this same hiss it was deemed "unfixable". Long story short, we met locally and it was a matter of disconnecting the ANC, regrounding the HU and having compatible components capable of converting the incoming signal from HU. Here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...nk-sub-955600/

01LSi

marxw13 Can I confirm you have the base non nav version of this vehicle? 4 cyl or v6 (AWD)?

The wiring diagram from acura seems to match your pre amp wiring that has only the FR and FL channels being fed from the stereo to the factory amp, then the factory amp creating the rest of the channels afterwards. I'm afraid I'm going to find the same exact thing when I have a chance to take a look ...

Meanwhile ... the diagram for the navigation version (see below image) of our vehicle has ALL the pre amp wiring for each channel ... I intentionally bought it without the tech package thinking it would be easier to deal with but it appears that the tech package has all the pre amp wires available to tap into ..........

01LSi

And additionally now I have to figure which specific processors will expand my 2 channel to 5 channels?

I intended to use the Fix86, does anyone know off the top of their head if that will do the job? Or which very specific processors will? Time for more work ...

BChester I'll have to read through that link, thanks.

Bchester6

The tech package has all the pre amp leads because it's probably a processed signal meaning that the HU has already equalized it and the amp simply amplifies the signal. Base units are typically unprocessed signals pre amp and all the processing is done by the amp and then amplified out. IMO This makes it easier for aftermarket integration where as the tech package signal has to be flattened and de-equalized prior to music being reproduced through aftermarket components. This typically results in a pricey endeavor as it involves a DSP processor opposed to a line out converter or a compatible amplifier. Regardless, you want a full range signal before splitting it off into various channels to be Amplified. Good luck with whatever route you choose.

marxw13

yes I have the base I4 package

marxw13

To clarify its non nav base audio

know610

Hi,

Sorry to high-jack. I want to install amp and sub for 2017 TLX V6 base model. Attachment is factory amp of my car. Is there a wire diagram for this one? The second picture, is that ANC module? Both located on front passage side. Thanks.