POLK AUDIO 12s
06-06-2001, 07:07 PM
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POLK AUDIO 12s
Ok here's the link:
http://www.polkaudio.com/car/product...=16&speaker=83
I want more base. Tell me what I'm gona need -- AMP -- wise to push these ? I'm NOT audio install savvy. Probably get someone to do it for me. Educate me
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http://www.polkaudio.com/car/product...=16&speaker=83
I want more base. Tell me what I'm gona need -- AMP -- wise to push these ? I'm NOT audio install savvy. Probably get someone to do it for me. Educate me
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06-07-2001, 08:39 AM
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Polk Audio are the shit. My cousin has the db series from 3 years ago. You can stand right on the cone and it will not hurt it. He has 1 10" and everyone thinks it is 2 12"'s. And he only has an RF Punch 100 pushing it. I think the new Polk/Momo's will be at least as good if not better. You may also consider Eclipse. I have the 10" Aluminum DVC with a Directed Audio 600D amp and it sounds better than the Polk on some frequencies while others the Polk is better. Hope this helped at least a little bit.
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06-07-2001, 10:55 AM
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Chizad1980
yes it does ! Can you tell me the "LEAST" amp I should get with the 12s ? Easy to make the BOXES they go in ? How much -- generally speaking -- if I have someone do it ?
Thanks
Steve
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yes it does ! Can you tell me the "LEAST" amp I should get with the 12s ? Easy to make the BOXES they go in ? How much -- generally speaking -- if I have someone do it ?
Thanks
Steve
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by chizad1980:
Polk Audio are the shit. My cousin has the db series from 3 years ago. You can stand right on the cone and it will not hurt it. He has 1 10" and everyone thinks it is 2 12"'s. And he only has an RF Punch 100 pushing it. I think the new Polk/Momo's will be at least as good if not better. You may also consider Eclipse. I have the 10" Aluminum DVC with a Directed Audio 600D amp and it sounds better than the Polk on some frequencies while others the Polk is better. Hope this helped at least a little bit.
</font>
Polk Audio are the shit. My cousin has the db series from 3 years ago. You can stand right on the cone and it will not hurt it. He has 1 10" and everyone thinks it is 2 12"'s. And he only has an RF Punch 100 pushing it. I think the new Polk/Momo's will be at least as good if not better. You may also consider Eclipse. I have the 10" Aluminum DVC with a Directed Audio 600D amp and it sounds better than the Polk on some frequencies while others the Polk is better. Hope this helped at least a little bit.
</font>
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06-08-2001, 02:19 AM
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Steve,
Depending on the power handling capabilities of the sub, I say you should get an amp that pushes it to about 75%-90% of the subs limit. Example: if the sub handles 1000 watts(max) get an amp that does 750-900 watts max or total power. To get the RMS value in real electronics you multiply max power by .714 or something, but they don't go that with subs. If you are getting 2 subs and want it to be louder, I reccomend getting a mono Class D amp for each sub, but if you want a bit less loudness, get 1 amp for both. As for the box if you do it yourself, only use MDF(medium density fiberboard). It only costs like $10 at Home Depot or whatever hardware store you have out there. If you build it, you need to get specs on a box, prolly from the company who makes the subs, on how many cubic feet it should be.And it will also tell you if it should be sealed or ported. Sealed is cleaner sounding, but ported is louder. This is kind of lazy, but when I have the cubic ft. of the box needed, I just try different numbers out ie.(14"x16"x16"= 3,584 cu in or 2.07 cu ft ) or whatever numbers happen to work out to be the ideal cu. ft. Another thing when you're building it, see if the specs say 1 airspace for both subs or seperate(usually it sounds better with seperate air spaces, like with a board in the middle of the box seperating both sides ) and make sure that you use plenty of screws to hold it together as well as plenty of silicon to seal around ALL of the edges inside and out. And when you are connecting the wire (I recommend 12 gauge speaker wire ), drill a hole through the box and connect it directly to the sub with solder, and silicon around the hole so no air gets through. And if its a DVC(Dual Voice Coil) sub, make sure you hook it up properly. One other thing
When you get your sub(s) hooked up, You should get a Bass Mechanics CD and go to the Pink Noise section Usually like song 99 or something, and play this for a couple hours or so. The reason for this is because it breaks in the sub by playing all of the frequencies at once. Trust me it helps. Sorry for the long post, but I had a lot to say, and I hope it helps your decision making.
-Chad-
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[This message has been edited by chizad1980 (edited 06-08-2001).]
[This message has been edited by chizad1980 (edited 06-08-2001).]
Depending on the power handling capabilities of the sub, I say you should get an amp that pushes it to about 75%-90% of the subs limit. Example: if the sub handles 1000 watts(max) get an amp that does 750-900 watts max or total power. To get the RMS value in real electronics you multiply max power by .714 or something, but they don't go that with subs. If you are getting 2 subs and want it to be louder, I reccomend getting a mono Class D amp for each sub, but if you want a bit less loudness, get 1 amp for both. As for the box if you do it yourself, only use MDF(medium density fiberboard). It only costs like $10 at Home Depot or whatever hardware store you have out there. If you build it, you need to get specs on a box, prolly from the company who makes the subs, on how many cubic feet it should be.And it will also tell you if it should be sealed or ported. Sealed is cleaner sounding, but ported is louder. This is kind of lazy, but when I have the cubic ft. of the box needed, I just try different numbers out ie.(14"x16"x16"= 3,584 cu in or 2.07 cu ft ) or whatever numbers happen to work out to be the ideal cu. ft. Another thing when you're building it, see if the specs say 1 airspace for both subs or seperate(usually it sounds better with seperate air spaces, like with a board in the middle of the box seperating both sides ) and make sure that you use plenty of screws to hold it together as well as plenty of silicon to seal around ALL of the edges inside and out. And when you are connecting the wire (I recommend 12 gauge speaker wire ), drill a hole through the box and connect it directly to the sub with solder, and silicon around the hole so no air gets through. And if its a DVC(Dual Voice Coil) sub, make sure you hook it up properly. One other thing
When you get your sub(s) hooked up, You should get a Bass Mechanics CD and go to the Pink Noise section Usually like song 99 or something, and play this for a couple hours or so. The reason for this is because it breaks in the sub by playing all of the frequencies at once. Trust me it helps. Sorry for the long post, but I had a lot to say, and I hope it helps your decision making.-Chad-
------------------
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[This message has been edited by chizad1980 (edited 06-08-2001).]
[This message has been edited by chizad1980 (edited 06-08-2001).]
06-08-2001, 11:14 AM
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Thanks
I'll probabaly go to a Car Audio place have them to do it; I don't get into the DO it yourself thing...When I've never done something before: Specially if I want it to be done right, and want it to look nice! I'll just screw it up.
Cheers
caddy
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I'll probabaly go to a Car Audio place have them to do it; I don't get into the DO it yourself thing...When I've never done something before: Specially if I want it to be done right, and want it to look nice! I'll just screw it up.
Cheers
caddy
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by chizad1980:
Steve,
Depending on the power handling capabilities of the sub, I say you should get an amp that pushes it to about 75%-90% of the subs limit. Example: if the sub handles 1000 watts(max) get an amp that does 750-900 watts max or total power. To get the RMS value in real electronics you multiply max power by .714 or something, but they don't go that with subs. If you are getting 2 subs and want it to be louder, I reccomend getting a mono Class D amp for each sub, but if you want a bit less loudness, get 1 amp for both. As for the box if you do it yourself, only use MDF(medium density fiberboard). It only costs like $10 at Home Depot or whatever hardware store you have out there. If you build it, you need to get specs on a box, prolly from the company who makes the subs, on how many cubic feet it should be.And it will also tell you if it should be sealed or ported. Sealed is cleaner sounding, but ported is louder. This is kind of lazy, but when I have the cubic ft. of the box needed, I just try different numbers out ie.(14"x16"x16"= 3,584 cu in or 2.07 cu ft ) or whatever numbers happen to work out to be the ideal cu. ft. Another thing when you're building it, see if the specs say 1 airspace for both subs or seperate(usually it sounds better with seperate air spaces, like with a board in the middle of the box seperating both sides ) and make sure that you use plenty of screws to hold it together as well as plenty of silicon to seal around ALL of the edges inside and out. And when you are connecting the wire (I recommend 12 gauge speaker wire ), drill a hole through the box and connect it directly to the sub with solder, and silicon around the hole so no air gets through. And if its a DVC(Dual Voice Coil) sub, make sure you hook it up properly. One other thing When you get your sub(s) hooked up, You should get a Bass Mechanics CD and go to the Pink Noise section Usually like song 99 or something, and play this for a couple hours or so. The reason for this is because it breaks in the sub by playing all of the frequencies at once. Trust me it helps. Sorry for the long post, but I had a lot to say, and I hope it helps your decision making.
-Chad-</font>
Steve,
Depending on the power handling capabilities of the sub, I say you should get an amp that pushes it to about 75%-90% of the subs limit. Example: if the sub handles 1000 watts(max) get an amp that does 750-900 watts max or total power. To get the RMS value in real electronics you multiply max power by .714 or something, but they don't go that with subs. If you are getting 2 subs and want it to be louder, I reccomend getting a mono Class D amp for each sub, but if you want a bit less loudness, get 1 amp for both. As for the box if you do it yourself, only use MDF(medium density fiberboard). It only costs like $10 at Home Depot or whatever hardware store you have out there. If you build it, you need to get specs on a box, prolly from the company who makes the subs, on how many cubic feet it should be.And it will also tell you if it should be sealed or ported. Sealed is cleaner sounding, but ported is louder. This is kind of lazy, but when I have the cubic ft. of the box needed, I just try different numbers out ie.(14"x16"x16"= 3,584 cu in or 2.07 cu ft ) or whatever numbers happen to work out to be the ideal cu. ft. Another thing when you're building it, see if the specs say 1 airspace for both subs or seperate(usually it sounds better with seperate air spaces, like with a board in the middle of the box seperating both sides ) and make sure that you use plenty of screws to hold it together as well as plenty of silicon to seal around ALL of the edges inside and out. And when you are connecting the wire (I recommend 12 gauge speaker wire ), drill a hole through the box and connect it directly to the sub with solder, and silicon around the hole so no air gets through. And if its a DVC(Dual Voice Coil) sub, make sure you hook it up properly. One other thing
When you get your sub(s) hooked up, You should get a Bass Mechanics CD and go to the Pink Noise section Usually like song 99 or something, and play this for a couple hours or so. The reason for this is because it breaks in the sub by playing all of the frequencies at once. Trust me it helps. Sorry for the long post, but I had a lot to say, and I hope it helps your decision making.-Chad-</font>
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06-08-2001, 04:12 PM
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Caddy,
I've got that exact speaker in the trunk with 300 watts on it. Sounds absolutely incredible. Deep, accurate, rich bass that will hit really hard it you ask it to. Complements the stock system beautifully. You won't be disappointed!
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- navigation, moonroof visor, upgraded cupholder, Acura spoiler
- Polarg m-6, tint 20% rear, 35% sides, Eibach springs
- 18" Racing Hart C2000 Evo's w/Pirelli P7000's, V1 hardwired
- Polk Momo 12" sub w/Precision Power amp, AudioControl Epicenter
I've got that exact speaker in the trunk with 300 watts on it. Sounds absolutely incredible. Deep, accurate, rich bass that will hit really hard it you ask it to. Complements the stock system beautifully. You won't be disappointed!
------------------
White/Black 2001 CL-S (3rd sold in Austin)
- navigation, moonroof visor, upgraded cupholder, Acura spoiler
- Polarg m-6, tint 20% rear, 35% sides, Eibach springs
- 18" Racing Hart C2000 Evo's w/Pirelli P7000's, V1 hardwired
- Polk Momo 12" sub w/Precision Power amp, AudioControl Epicenter
06-08-2001, 05:31 PM
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Thanks Guys !
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mcdanjw:
Caddy,
I've got that exact speaker in the trunk with 300 watts on it. Sounds absolutely incredible. Deep, accurate, rich bass that will hit really hard it you ask it to. Complements the stock system beautifully. You won't be disappointed!
</font>
Caddy,
I've got that exact speaker in the trunk with 300 watts on it. Sounds absolutely incredible. Deep, accurate, rich bass that will hit really hard it you ask it to. Complements the stock system beautifully. You won't be disappointed!
</font>
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