gregwils

The front suspension of my 2012 TL Base with 85,000 miles is starting to feel tired. A few clunks, shocks the exhale and over bumps, just not tight like it was 80k miles ago. This is my daily driver, and have a separate fun car, so am only interested in restoring the performance to like it was when new - no coil overs, no lowering, etc, etc.. I am showing about $1,000 in parts (discounted). I feel like it's pretty complete list , but thought I would throw it out there for feedback. Does anyone see any glaring holes in my list?

Reorge

Lower control arms. ~ 490 & 475 each.
Try changing shocks first and see what that gets you.

alxhastngs

My two cents as I am looking to something similar around 100k:

For the price you are paying for OEM shocks, you could be on Teins, they are adjustable so you should be able to almost maintain the stock ride height and dial them in to whatever comfort level you wish. Only see front two struts on your list, you would want to do all 4 corners.


Look into aftermarket for the upper arms to save some cost, this is a simple part. You may still need ball joints separately though. These are $30-40 arms vs OEM $150-190. If you do want to go low, you will need adjustable ball joints.

I would skip the front lower arms for now, these are the really expensive ($1000 for the pair OEM) parts, that said it looks like aftermarket are available much cheaper...

I only see part numbers for the front two end links, you will want to do all 4, $30 each, they are probably the culprit for most of the noises you hear.

I would order new hardware for all end links and control arms, expect to cut the old stuff off, but this may depend on your location and Winters. Some of the parts will come with the hardware, depending on where you get them from.

Keep us updated on how it goes!

gregwils

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping to pass on the lower arms because of the cost, but included lower ball joints in my list. It appeared to me based on the drawing of the suspension that the lower ball joint is pressed into the knuckle and bolted to the lower arm. I am use to the opposite, pressed into the arm and bolted to a knuckle or strut assembly. The part number listed for the upper arm has the ball joint as part of the assembly, so I thought that I would save labor by not having to deal with the ball joint.

This is my daily driver and I will be 60 at my next birthday, so I don't want to mess with coil overs on my daily driver. The strut part number listed is for the complete strut assembly, including spring and misc, so no labor. Bolt and unbolt. Good thought on the rear struts, and end links. Just so you don't think I am too boring, I do have an '86 Porsche 911 for fun and I do all my own mechanical work. I just don't enjoy working on my daily driver and while I don't have a lot of money, I am willing to pay to have someone else do the work on it.

I know that some of the parts on my list may not be worn, but I am planning to take this list to an independent shop near my hope and ask for a quote to install everything. I can see the dealer quoting me the book labor rate for each item, but an independent would be willing to quote me something closer to actual time required to do the combined job. For example, if I have the upper arm and the front strut off, how much more work can it be to press out the lower front ball joint.

Looks my quote is going to be close to $2,500 for parts + labor. It's a lot of money, but not compared to car payments. I may wait until next year, I will be at 100k miles and would love to get 200k out of the car. Thanks again for the feedback.

rikyrat

Hey Guys:

I have a 2010 SH-AWD 6MT, XCELERATE J-Pipe and complete exhaust, with the 3rd cat deleted

I am in the process of going thru my suspension putting on Truhart Racing Shocks.
I guess I should start by saying that I put on H & R Lowering Springs, about 15k miles, love them, but the OEM shocks are worn, I have 60k.

So as I started to think about the shocks, I decided, that I would install new ball joints, upper and lower, and new strut mounting bushings.
So I started to search the web, even though I work for a large auto parts retailer, you can guess, I will give you a hint, it does not start with an
A or N and ends in a "Y". I found a good deal on the complete upper control arm, and lower ball joint kit, here is the link

2010 Acura TL 4 Piece Set Suspension Kit with (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints & (2)
Front Lower Ball Joints
2010 Acura TL Front & Rear Strut Mount Kit 4 Piece Set

For some reason the link is not showing in the post, the web site is iaauto.com
I paid 141.00 for both of the these, shipping is free and no tax, I ordered them Sunday night, they shipped yesterday, and should get here in a week.
Which is not to long to wait if you are assembling parts. This is not a bad deal at all, since most ball joints are manufacture by MOOG or Dorman, so they should hold up pretty well.

As for replacing the struts, I would say that going with Truhart shocks and H & R lowering springs, which are comparable to the A-SPEC lowering springs, is the best way to go, if you are looking for some performance, I was amazed with the handling when I put the springs on with the stock shocks. So I am really looking forward to seeing what the difference is when I put the new dampers on, they are specifically designed to go with the lower springs.

I wanted to go with urethane bushings, but the are not made for the 4gen TL, besides, they tend to squeak, and harshen the ride, so I and sticking with the OEM bushings. Also, in the Acura Shop Manual, it states that you should replace the upper and lower control arm nuts and bolts, I think adds about 30 bucks to the job, I think I am going to replace the upper shock rubber mount, but then again, I am anal, when I do something, if it looks the slightest bit worn, I dump it, and get new. No wonder my projects go over budget, but then again the only one I answer to is Bandit, my Aussie Shepard, who cares if I have enough money left to eat, or put gas in my car, I can admire it in the garage. LOL

I commend the research you did on the assembling the parts list, that must have take some time. I hope my alternative helps and saves some money, so once you get it all back together and start drooling over new tires and wheels, there is something left.

Let me know what you think.

rikyrat

Hey Greg:

I miss my 79 911SC, so I am very envious.
Changing the fronts struts, or the rears for that matter, is a bear. The manual states you only need to remove the lower strut mounting bolts, and undo the mounting collar bolt. That is a bunch of cow manure, if you do that way, at least in my experience, you cannot get the strut out of the mounting collar, I found that by breaking the upper ball joint makes it easier to get the strut out. Also, changing the lower ball joints requires what they call a ball joint remover, you can rent one at the O O O'Reilly Auto parts store.

The rears are fairly straight forward, but a the PIB is that you have remove the rear seat and some other interior parts.

Have fun