herbert6368

Just want to ask is the progressive's rear sway diameter similar to the stock AWD sway? Thanks

herbert6368

Progress Technology Anti Sway BAR Rear Acura TL 2009 2014 22mm ADJ | eBay

This is 22mm but on excelerate website said 24mm ???
Progress Anti-Sway Bar - Excelerate - HOA - Japanese Performance Specialist

ExcelerateRep

I think it's listed incorrectly on our website. It is in fact a 22mm according to the Progress website. I'll have it changed shortly!

herbert6368

Thanks for the info

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Just a word of caution, one member (potmilkz) had an issue with the RSB. I believe it tore his subframe...? I don't remember the exact problem but it left me wanting to steer clear of the RSB.

EDIT - click here for further info on the RSB.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

a thicker Rear Sway Bar is a torsion bar. it's highly stressed.

what happens when one rear wheel is higher than the other?
the thicker RSB put's a LOT of stress to one side and will usually break the weak link. and the weak link so happens to be where the subframe is welded, exactly at the point where the RSB mounts.

there's two ways to overcome this.
Drive EVENLY over bumps, so not to stress one side....

or

get stiffer springs

herbert6368

I have 14k rear spring already it's still doesn't wanna go into a corner flat enough for me

csmeance

You only tear the mounts if you stress the frame too much. Like the Sport+ setting on the bar and going over a speedbump with only 1 side of the car, BIG NO NO.

TheDingo

You'd think the weak link would be the end links. Definitely shouldn't be breaking the subframe. Then again, most don't buy an Acura to go auto-x'ing and corner carving.

herbert6368

Actually, I'm going to the track next summer nothing breaks

potmilkz

ive had the progress rsb... i loved it... but it screwed me 1k in repairs.. as the mounting points are too weak for the rsb.. ended up replacing my entire rear subframe so i can stick to oem because of that.. dont do it if you drive your car alot. you will also be 2 wheeling all the time into driveways as the rsb is very stiff and wont let your rear wheel drop down to the floor causing 1 side to take all the weight.. which leads to tearing of the mounting point.

herbert6368

Just want to ask, will stiffer rear spring helps? like 14k in the back? Thanks

Edward'TLS

^^^^^

Don't do it.

The combination of stiffer aftermarket rear sway bar and super stiff rear springs will transform your car into one that will exhibit heavy oversteering.

Bob Chadwick

That's the same comment I was going to make Edward. You need to "balance" the suspension and not just add pieces. Otherwise you can create undesirable handling characteristics.

23109VC

so what are the "experts" recommendations as to the ideal / best suspection setup on a TL or SH-AWD TL?

stock sway bars and just add coilovers?

I went with the H&R springs... car looks great..but after 20-30k miles my car feels floaty. likely my OEM shocks wearing out...

does anyone make upgraded strut braces for our cars?

Edward'TLS

Full set of aftermarket (front + rear) sway bars,
coilovers or aftermarket springs + adjustable shock absorbers.

potmilkz

full coilovers with dampening should be your first choice.. anything with just springs is useless.. offers no performance gain whatsoever..

i would leave sway bars for track oriented car.. those things make your car 2 wheel in drive ways.. and as i mentioned before.. with the rear subframe swaybar mounts being so fragile and thin.. i wouldnt recommended.. i already tore mine.

Nitin

iTrader: (1)

potmilkz, did you have the 22mm bar on when you had all those problems with the subframe? I seem to remember Progress once sold an even thicker bar in the past but then changed to 22mm due to these same concerns.

HeartTLs

iTrader: (5)

Aftermarket springs in stock struts will wear out your struts quicker, it's very likely you prematurely wore them.




Pot had the thicker, 24mm one.

potmilkz

22 or 24.. i dont think it makes a difference.. the subframe mounting points are just too thin and fragile.. it doesnt even measure a quarter inch thick.

TheDingo

When you upgrade your shocks... check out the Koni Yellows if they make them for the 4g. I had them on my 3g w/ the H&R springs and it was fantastic. They're height adjustable (multiple perches) and also can adjust rebound. Great shocks for the money. Rebuildable too.

23109VC

I searched various sites that sell shocks...

shox.com
shockwharehouse
tirerack

it does NOT look like the koni yellows are available for my car yet... I had those shocks on a prior car.. a 99 Prelude SH... I guess I could do coilovers...and just sell my springs after the fact...

I hate the body roll my car has.. any shock/spring setup that kills the roll and makes it corner flatter? i dont' car if the car is stiff as hell and bounces my guts out as long as it handles on rails.

HeartTLs

iTrader: (5)

Gave you a "thanks" because that's how I like my car to ride as well. I have TEIN SA with upgraded springs, 12k/7k, standard is 10/5, and have EDFC set to 00/00. It corners very flat but I think I'd still like it to be stiffer. If you don't care about EDFC which for my purpose may be overrated, I'd get BC coils with 14/12 or 14/14k spring rates.

TheDingo

or just buy an STI

23109VC

does a bone stock STI handle piles better than our cars?

i *really* want that new NSX...

Edward'TLS

The STI has a much shorter wheelbase, and therefore more agile.

23109VC

how woudl a TL SH-AWD with koni yellos + eibach springs handle vs a car with Tein coilovers? similar?

i want maximum handling and minimal body roll

TheDingo

I think coils would make it a bit more stiff. max handle and body roll you want some at least 3-way adjustable coils.

Also, yes, the STI out handles the TL. By a lot. *puts on the flame suit* but they're apples to oranges (imo). I've had over 30 cars and my 11 STI is my favorite. I picked up a '16 wrx and the chassis is every bit as stiff as the previous gen STI. Great cars.