Transmission Gurgling and Shuddering
#41
Burning Brakes
Generally, recalls are only done for safety-related items, and not maintenance-related items like this. It doesn't impact performance and no damage would occur with only the partial blockage. If they were getting completely blocked and causing potential ATF damage/failure, I could see a recall perhaps.....
andy
#42
Pro
Thread Starter
That makes a lot of sense, Andy. I could see why mine got clogged since this car was originally a lease and they didn’t do the drain and fill of the transmission fluid at 30k.
#43
WHat is the part number or description of the transmission filter that you had replaced under warranty? I am gearing up in case mine goes bad...Wanna be in the know.
#46
Intermediate
As with others, I'm having the same "gurgling" sound after a TSB for the transmission shift. Mine sounds like bubbles shooting through a pipe?
The service advisor told me they didn't have to do a "Full" transmission flush for this, but only what was needed to fill the reservoir.
All these complaints I'm reading about the same issue make be believe the TSB is jacked in it's instructions to the dealer.
The service advisor told me they didn't have to do a "Full" transmission flush for this, but only what was needed to fill the reservoir.
All these complaints I'm reading about the same issue make be believe the TSB is jacked in it's instructions to the dealer.
#47
Pro
Thread Starter
As with others, I'm having the same "gurgling" sound after a TSB for the transmission shift. Mine sounds like bubbles shooting through a pipe?
The service advisor told me they didn't have to do a "Full" transmission flush for this, but only what was needed to fill the reservoir.
All these complaints I'm reading about the same issue make be believe the TSB is jacked in it's instructions to the dealer.
The service advisor told me they didn't have to do a "Full" transmission flush for this, but only what was needed to fill the reservoir.
All these complaints I'm reading about the same issue make be believe the TSB is jacked in it's instructions to the dealer.
Last edited by Kinuto; 03-30-2018 at 03:14 PM.
#48
As with others, I'm having the same "gurgling" sound after a TSB for the transmission shift. Mine sounds like bubbles shooting through a pipe?
The service advisor told me they didn't have to do a "Full" transmission flush for this, but only what was needed to fill the reservoir.
All these complaints I'm reading about the same issue make be believe the TSB is jacked in it's instructions to the dealer.
The service advisor told me they didn't have to do a "Full" transmission flush for this, but only what was needed to fill the reservoir.
All these complaints I'm reading about the same issue make be believe the TSB is jacked in it's instructions to the dealer.
0. Call Acura Client Relations. File a claim. You want to file a claim to have something srviced under warranty and the TSB supports your request. They will instruct you what to do.
1. Print out the TSB
2. Call and Ask to speak with the manager of your choice dealership
3. Make an appointment with him to discuss that you have real concnerns about your vehicle being serviced there and you want to discuss the symptoms and you have TSB that may help shed some light on the problem.
4. meet with the SERVICE MANAGER...he or she will try to pass you off to a tech, which is okay AFTER you speak with HIM or HER about the TSB, give it to them and suggest that they perform the repair under warranty and that you have spoken with Acura Client Relations already.
Lets hope whatever they did or are doing fixed it and you dont even have to go through this.
If the dealer wont cooperate, go to another dealer.
#49
Pro
Thread Starter
#50
Curious if others have had this covered under the powertrain warranty? The reason I ask is that my TL is at the local dealer for this very reason. They have diagnosed the problem and the fix outlined in the TSB. The only issue is that they told me it is NOT covered. The first thing I did is call Acura and open up a case. I am waiting to hear back from the case manager which should be Monday.
Hopefully everything is covered and I can get the software update all covered under warranty.
Hopefully everything is covered and I can get the software update all covered under warranty.
#51
Pro
Thread Starter
Curious if others have had this covered under the powertrain warranty? The reason I ask is that my TL is at the local dealer for this very reason. They have diagnosed the problem and the fix outlined in the TSB. The only issue is that they told me it is NOT covered. The first thing I did is call Acura and open up a case. I am waiting to hear back from the case manager which should be Monday.
Hopefully everything is covered and I can get the software update all covered under warranty.
Hopefully everything is covered and I can get the software update all covered under warranty.
#52
Kinuto, sorry to hear of your issues. I couldn't hear the gurgling in the video.
I requested the filter replacement one time during a transmission service (for peace of mind, would hear a little clunk noise at start up) and was told it was a lifetime filter. I mentioned the TSB and stated I wanted it changed. The service adviser said it didn't need to be done, once again... I then said... "Okay, so, I am requesting you to do a service that I am willing to pay for and you are telling me you won't F****** do it?". I always make sure to be loud enough so someone at the next adviser can hear me... He still said it didn't need to be changed, but he would. I did tell him that there is another Acura/Honda dealer that I am more than willing to take the vehicle to and not return. I have never had an issue since.
130K and the car still drives like the day i bought it. I would like a different vehicle, but, drives too nice to take the abysmal money I can get for a trade in. I guess I drive for another 100K.
I requested the filter replacement one time during a transmission service (for peace of mind, would hear a little clunk noise at start up) and was told it was a lifetime filter. I mentioned the TSB and stated I wanted it changed. The service adviser said it didn't need to be done, once again... I then said... "Okay, so, I am requesting you to do a service that I am willing to pay for and you are telling me you won't F****** do it?". I always make sure to be loud enough so someone at the next adviser can hear me... He still said it didn't need to be changed, but he would. I did tell him that there is another Acura/Honda dealer that I am more than willing to take the vehicle to and not return. I have never had an issue since.
130K and the car still drives like the day i bought it. I would like a different vehicle, but, drives too nice to take the abysmal money I can get for a trade in. I guess I drive for another 100K.
#53
Kinuto, sorry to hear of your issues. I couldn't hear the gurgling in the video.
I requested the filter replacement one time during a transmission service (for peace of mind, would hear a little clunk noise at start up) and was told it was a lifetime filter. I mentioned the TSB and stated I wanted it changed. The service adviser said it didn't need to be done, once again... I then said... "Okay, so, I am requesting you to do a service that I am willing to pay for and you are telling me you won't F****** do it?". I always make sure to be loud enough so someone at the next adviser can hear me... He still said it didn't need to be changed, but he would. I did tell him that there is another Acura/Honda dealer that I am more than willing to take the vehicle to and not return. I have never had an issue since.
130K and the car still drives like the day i bought it. I would like a different vehicle, but, drives too nice to take the abysmal money I can get for a trade in. I guess I drive for another 100K.
I requested the filter replacement one time during a transmission service (for peace of mind, would hear a little clunk noise at start up) and was told it was a lifetime filter. I mentioned the TSB and stated I wanted it changed. The service adviser said it didn't need to be done, once again... I then said... "Okay, so, I am requesting you to do a service that I am willing to pay for and you are telling me you won't F****** do it?". I always make sure to be loud enough so someone at the next adviser can hear me... He still said it didn't need to be changed, but he would. I did tell him that there is another Acura/Honda dealer that I am more than willing to take the vehicle to and not return. I have never had an issue since.
130K and the car still drives like the day i bought it. I would like a different vehicle, but, drives too nice to take the abysmal money I can get for a trade in. I guess I drive for another 100K.
#54
Advanced
I have to say I am having regrets about buying this 12 TL reading about the issues and haven't even made the first payment yet! I only have 64k but I have heard the gurgle, however after having fluid changed last week I have not heard it return. But I had to pay 199, they also said they would run the fluid thru a couple times on the change, guess I will have to trust them on that. Also had the software update that I had to pay for, and the shudder mostly went away but am feeling it come back a little. Also noticed my mpg dropped 1 to 25.8 so they probably didn't change the filter? I am going to call them. My previous Honda products were pretty much trouble free I expected more from Acura.
also how do you feel the tranny response is with update? one time when i get on pedal at highway speed to pass it is very responsive the next time not so much.
Thanks for your thoughts
Bill
also how do you feel the tranny response is with update? one time when i get on pedal at highway speed to pass it is very responsive the next time not so much.
Thanks for your thoughts
Bill
#55
Pro
Thread Starter
You shouldn’t have any regrets at all, Bill. The 4G Acura TL is bulletproof and the engine is a gem. As far as the transmission service goes you shouldn’t have to pay a cent. Trust me I didn’t! I haven’t had the software update on my 2013 but so far it’s been issue free. I had the gurgle and it was fixed due to the clogged filter being replaced. I’ll take this 6 speed automatic over any of the crappy CVT transmissions being put out today.
#56
Advanced
I appreciate the encouragement. yes the engine feels really strong and I figure it's just an updated version of the 3.5 that is in our odyssey which is still going at 182k! Before I bought did some reading online but nothing stood out, Consumer reports gave it pretty good ratings on mechanics and no mention of these odd tranny issues. I did fill out a survey for Acura and think I will write them now and ask why I had to pay when I did mention the TSB's (thanks to this forum!). Yes after my recent experience with the CVT going it is scary when you have no gear to go to, at least with an automatic you can coax into a gear in emergency. My wife likes the new Civic and I said no because they are CVT's, I don't care who makes them.
Does anyone have the part number for inline filter? I will just do that myself, I could not find last night through the acura part sources, one showed a filter near the radiator, is there one by the tranny cooler too?
Thanks again
Does anyone have the part number for inline filter? I will just do that myself, I could not find last night through the acura part sources, one showed a filter near the radiator, is there one by the tranny cooler too?
Thanks again
#57
My gurgling is back after my transmission flush in March. How often should I have to get this done?
And how do I tell the Acura dealership that I need the software update at no charge? Reference the "tsb"
Thanks!
And how do I tell the Acura dealership that I need the software update at no charge? Reference the "tsb"
Thanks!
#58
Advanced
I referenced the TSB and they still charged me but service manager said we will charge 64 for diagnostic and if it needs it 60 for update. I didn't know any better because there isn't a fed mandated recall which I know those have to be free. I would try to stand your ground and print out the TSB from here. couldnt hurt.
#59
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
That's utter that they charged you for the update. Software updates for any vehicle are supposed to be free of charge.
The transmission fluid is really easy to change. I'd consider doing it yourself. There's a simple 3/8 bolt at the bottom of the transmission. Remove that, put it back after the drain, then refill with a funnel through the dipstick spout. There's a 17mm bolt behind the throttle body that's used to replace the fluid but the dipstick spout works fine if you pour the fluid in slow. The filter is a bit more work since you have to remove a bunch of bologna. I have most of it removed so replacement is easy. And I'd recommend using a magnafine filter over the OEM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Magnefi...WnOl:rk:5:pf:0
Anyway, if you're not up to do it yourself I understand. But I can say that a fluid drain/refill every 10K or so with the filter replacement every 30K or so has resulted in absolutely perfect operation for 175K miles. No shudder, no hesitation, no gurgling, no nothing. Smooth and responsive. Runs like the day I bought it. Acura is not conservative enough with fluid changes in my opinion. These transmissions are sensitive and operate much better with newer fluid more often.
The transmission fluid is really easy to change. I'd consider doing it yourself. There's a simple 3/8 bolt at the bottom of the transmission. Remove that, put it back after the drain, then refill with a funnel through the dipstick spout. There's a 17mm bolt behind the throttle body that's used to replace the fluid but the dipstick spout works fine if you pour the fluid in slow. The filter is a bit more work since you have to remove a bunch of bologna. I have most of it removed so replacement is easy. And I'd recommend using a magnafine filter over the OEM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Magnefi...WnOl:rk:5:pf:0
Anyway, if you're not up to do it yourself I understand. But I can say that a fluid drain/refill every 10K or so with the filter replacement every 30K or so has resulted in absolutely perfect operation for 175K miles. No shudder, no hesitation, no gurgling, no nothing. Smooth and responsive. Runs like the day I bought it. Acura is not conservative enough with fluid changes in my opinion. These transmissions are sensitive and operate much better with newer fluid more often.
#60
Advanced
Thats awesome, yes I have a small funnel that I used for my cvt changes. I do about half the work on our cars and a friend who is a former Honda and now Mercedes tech does what i can't figure out. I use mobile 1 on all our cars and change between 8-10k. The acura service manager said 30k was a good interval to do tranny fluid but I'm thinking maybe every 20-25k. Also I can just use the Honda DM-1 fluid? I found the Acura labeled one at $18/quart while the Honda was about $8.
When my father-inlaw builds his new house next spring he is putting his two post lift back in, is filter easier to get to if it's up on lift I assume? I know I hate crawling on my cold garage floor in the winter!
When my father-inlaw builds his new house next spring he is putting his two post lift back in, is filter easier to get to if it's up on lift I assume? I know I hate crawling on my cold garage floor in the winter!
#61
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
Sweet. Yes, you can use Honda DW-1 (I assume you meant "DW" and not "DM"). It's the same stuff, just a different bottle.
The filter bracket is mounted on the aluminum subframe so if you attempted to get to it under the car, it would involve curling your hand over the subframe to attempt to unbolt the bracket as well as detach the old filter. It might be a pain in the neck that way. I haven't tried. When I first did mine, and didn't have a bunch of stuff removed (e.g. the battery tray and intake), I simply spent the time to remove stuff. It took 20 minutes or so to remove the plastics, battery, battery tray and intake track that was in the way. I've since removed all the engine plastic, most of the intake track, battery tray and full size battery. I have a compact lightweight battery with a makeshift tray directly on the chassis.
I'll try to take some pictures to give you an idea of where it is and how best to get to it.
The filter bracket is mounted on the aluminum subframe so if you attempted to get to it under the car, it would involve curling your hand over the subframe to attempt to unbolt the bracket as well as detach the old filter. It might be a pain in the neck that way. I haven't tried. When I first did mine, and didn't have a bunch of stuff removed (e.g. the battery tray and intake), I simply spent the time to remove stuff. It took 20 minutes or so to remove the plastics, battery, battery tray and intake track that was in the way. I've since removed all the engine plastic, most of the intake track, battery tray and full size battery. I have a compact lightweight battery with a makeshift tray directly on the chassis.
I'll try to take some pictures to give you an idea of where it is and how best to get to it.
#62
My car has been doing this gurgling sound since at long as I can remember and I bought it with 19k on the clock. I always thought it was the coolant moving around because it always sounded like it was coming from in the the dash near the heater box. I just had the tranny flushed because the car was acting funny slaming 2nd gear so hard I thought it was going to fall out then refusing to shift out of 2nd gear, slipping while going up hill and tiptronic would not work while this was going on. Does anyone know where I can get one of these transmission filters and what the part number is. My 2012 TL just turned 102k miles and my outlook for owning this car is looking very bleek.
#63
Pro
Thread Starter
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/
As for the hard shifting that could be your torque converter. The older 2009-2011 Models had that issue, which was covered under powertrain warranty.
#64
Burning Brakes
ATP sells the filter (part no B452). I bought some for my TL, Accord, and TSX. I have not installed one yet. They look just like OEM.
$9.52 + shipping at RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...501069&jsn=374.
OEM is $25+
I've used ATP filters on my Ex's suv and my Dad's truck. They seem to be well made.
$9.52 + shipping at RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...501069&jsn=374.
OEM is $25+
I've used ATP filters on my Ex's suv and my Dad's truck. They seem to be well made.
#65
My car has been doing this gurgling sound since at long as I can remember and I bought it with 19k on the clock. I always thought it was the coolant moving around because it always sounded like it was coming from in the the dash near the heater box. I just had the tranny flushed because the car was acting funny slaming 2nd gear so hard I thought it was going to fall out then refusing to shift out of 2nd gear, slipping while going up hill and tiptronic would not work while this was going on. Does anyone know where I can get one of these transmission filters and what the part number is. My 2012 TL just turned 102k miles and my outlook for owning this car is looking very bleek.
• Next step is Transmission Flush (youve done that?)
• Next Step is replacing Filter
• Next step is replacing Transmission. Ive had mine replaced twice. Both under warranty. how many miles are you at now?
#66
You shouldn’t have any regrets at all, Bill. The 4G Acura TL is bulletproof and the engine is a gem. As far as the transmission service goes you shouldn’t have to pay a cent. Trust me I didn’t! I haven’t had the software update on my 2013 but so far it’s been issue free. I had the gurgle and it was fixed due to the clogged filter being replaced. I’ll take this 6 speed automatic over any of the crappy CVT transmissions being put out today.
#67
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
Geez guys (with the transmission problems). Change your damn transmission fluid and filter! 90% of the time that's all there is to it. Mine was doing the same thing when I bought it two years and 120K miles ago. The filter gets changed every 30K or so and the fluid every 15K. It has nearly 180K on it now and it runs perfectly. Yes, it's a little over the top having to maintain the tranny that much but if you do even half that much (filter every 60K and fluid every 30K) you're unlikely to have any problems. The only reason I do mine more often is because I plan on keeping the car for a long time. Until it completely dies. But it runs better than when I bought it so it doesn't look like that's going to happen anytime soon.....
#68
Geez guys (with the transmission problems). Change your damn transmission fluid and filter! 90% of the time that's all there is to it. Mine was doing the same thing when I bought it two years and 120K miles ago. The filter gets changed every 30K or so and the fluid every 15K. It has nearly 180K on it now and it runs perfectly. Yes, it's a little over the top having to maintain the tranny that much but if you do even half that much (filter every 60K and fluid every 30K) you're unlikely to have any problems. The only reason I do mine more often is because I plan on keeping the car for a long time. Until it completely dies. But it runs better than when I bought it so it doesn't look like that's going to happen anytime soon.....
#69
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
What is the labor in your city and state to change the ATF filter. Because every dealer i Went to acted like it required rebuilding the engine. And at first they (two dealerships) told me its not required to be changed, its a not a serviceable part meaning changed routinely. Are we talking about the same car?? I have 2012 Acura TL. 3.7 Automatic Transmission, Advanced package.
1. Remove bolt from the bottom of transmission and let the fluid drain.
2. Replace bolt
3. Add new fluid
That's it. There are a few small nuances such as letting the fluid drain for a little while if you'd like, since much of the fluid is captured in the torque converter and by waiting for a little while, you can usually get about a half quart of additional fluid to drain. When I do mine, I let it sit for a good hour or so and continue to drain. Only a small stream will continue for that hour, or even just drips. If you don't want to wait, 90% of what you're going to get out will drain in the first 5 minutes. Also, the refill is a little less convenient than oil. You either have to fill through the dipstick port, which takes about 5-10 minutes since you have to fill it slowly (otherwise it will "burp" causing some fluid to come back up), or you have to remove the "proper" refill bolt which is a 17mm bolt behind the throttle body. I find it more convenient to just fill through the dipstick hole and take the 5 minutes or so to pour the fluid in slowly.
If you let the fluid drain for about an hour, you'll need to add about 4 quarts back in. If you don't, it's closer to 3.5 quarts. I always pour the old fluid into an empty 5qt. oil container then look at the graduations on the side of the bottle to see how much came out. Then I put that same amount of new fluid back in.
So yeah, slightly more involved than an oil change but not much. And if you consider that the ATF filter doesn't need to be changed often, you could say that the two are about equal since an oil change also involves changing the filter every time. I change the ATF filter every other drain/refill of the fluid but in reality that's overkill.
Those are a few tips and tricks but even for a novice DIY'er, it's probably a 30 minute job at most. The filter is a bit more work since you have to remove the battery, battery tray, part of the intake, and of course remove and replace the filter which is held on by a clamp fastened to the subframe and two small tube clamps that attach the inlet and outlet to the filter. But unless you're getting the gurgling, the filter isn't something that absolutely needs to be changed all that often. Even that job shouldn't take much more than an hour. And after you've done it once it's easy from there on because you know what to do. I'll post the procedure if you feel like giving it a shot.
#73
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
That all might look a bit more complicated that it really is. I tried to put it in chronological order. Just a few notes:
1. It's not necessary to drain the ATF fluid when changing the filter. If you want to do both at the same time then go for it but it's not necessary. If you don't however, make sure to place a pan under the filter since a bit of ATF will drip out.
2. The battery tray is a bit of a pain. It has the two bolt on the top right which are easy. The three underneath can be a bit tricky. I believe they're 10mm bolts. It will take a bit of navigating with your hands and a socket wrench to get to them. You'll have to feel for them a bit since you won't be able to see them all that well.
3. The intake is easy. It just has those little clips that you can use a little screwdriver to loosen the top, then remove them with some pliars or something. Just be a bit careful. The plastic can corrode over time and break. They're super cheap to order and replace (which I've had to do a few times due to me breaking them...) but it's still a hassle.
4. It states to replace the crush washer. That's also typical with oil. I'll admit, I almost never replace crush washers. I just tighten it well. I've never had any leaks. But if you want to get a new one you can at any auto parts store. Not critical however.
Get the OEM filter, not some Chinese knockoff (there are a lot out there).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-AUTOMAT...J3E:rk:18:pf:0
The other option, which I use, is a magnafine filter which has a synthetic filter membrane and an internal magnet for any metallic particles:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnefine-3...fMS-:rk:6:pf:0
1. It's not necessary to drain the ATF fluid when changing the filter. If you want to do both at the same time then go for it but it's not necessary. If you don't however, make sure to place a pan under the filter since a bit of ATF will drip out.
2. The battery tray is a bit of a pain. It has the two bolt on the top right which are easy. The three underneath can be a bit tricky. I believe they're 10mm bolts. It will take a bit of navigating with your hands and a socket wrench to get to them. You'll have to feel for them a bit since you won't be able to see them all that well.
3. The intake is easy. It just has those little clips that you can use a little screwdriver to loosen the top, then remove them with some pliars or something. Just be a bit careful. The plastic can corrode over time and break. They're super cheap to order and replace (which I've had to do a few times due to me breaking them...) but it's still a hassle.
4. It states to replace the crush washer. That's also typical with oil. I'll admit, I almost never replace crush washers. I just tighten it well. I've never had any leaks. But if you want to get a new one you can at any auto parts store. Not critical however.
Get the OEM filter, not some Chinese knockoff (there are a lot out there).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-AUTOMAT...J3E:rk:18:pf:0
The other option, which I use, is a magnafine filter which has a synthetic filter membrane and an internal magnet for any metallic particles:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnefine-3...fMS-:rk:6:pf:0
The following users liked this post:
death (03-12-2023)
#74
I feel your pain. Ive had my tranni and torque converter replaced twice. And STILL had Shudder and gargle issue.
two years and two trannys later I discovered it was the VALVES! i went to a non dealer mechanic to have diagnose only...and he said try a bottle of Lucas Oil Deep clean Fuel system cleaner.
i was like, but my car has transmission issues. He said Try it. Give it two tanks and two bottles and see if that fixes it. 9bux later Im a believer. The car is BUTTER SMOOTH at shifting and acceleration.
This is not to say the following service bulletins and recommended steps didnt help:
1 Software update, noticed a difference for about 24 hours then back to Hard shifts and bucking and tach searching.
2. Transmission fluid Triple Flush, I noticed an improvement. The shudder disappeared, the gargle and hard shifting did not.
3. Transmission AND torque replacement, Noticed a HUGE difference, last about 2k miles and hard shifting returned.
4. Second transmission Replacements, Same as before.
5. I then started looking for other issues cause the terrible rough shifting...lack of low end torq and and such.
Mass Air Sensor, Throttle body, Engine Air filters, Tune Up all were replaced...Still hard shifting.
Added a bottle of Lucas oil Brand "Deep Clean" Fuel System cleaner....within one half tank I noticed a difference. Improvemnst across the board.
by the second fuel refill and bottle EVERY symptom was gone. Done. The car drives like the Brochure says it does.
I am about 2 fuel refills in and im Blown away. I now plan to use the fuel conditioner by the same company with each fill up.
Just try it, I got mine at pepboys.com for like 11 bux. I wish Id known about this product sooner.
two years and two trannys later I discovered it was the VALVES! i went to a non dealer mechanic to have diagnose only...and he said try a bottle of Lucas Oil Deep clean Fuel system cleaner.
i was like, but my car has transmission issues. He said Try it. Give it two tanks and two bottles and see if that fixes it. 9bux later Im a believer. The car is BUTTER SMOOTH at shifting and acceleration.
This is not to say the following service bulletins and recommended steps didnt help:
1 Software update, noticed a difference for about 24 hours then back to Hard shifts and bucking and tach searching.
2. Transmission fluid Triple Flush, I noticed an improvement. The shudder disappeared, the gargle and hard shifting did not.
3. Transmission AND torque replacement, Noticed a HUGE difference, last about 2k miles and hard shifting returned.
4. Second transmission Replacements, Same as before.
5. I then started looking for other issues cause the terrible rough shifting...lack of low end torq and and such.
Mass Air Sensor, Throttle body, Engine Air filters, Tune Up all were replaced...Still hard shifting.
Added a bottle of Lucas oil Brand "Deep Clean" Fuel System cleaner....within one half tank I noticed a difference. Improvemnst across the board.
by the second fuel refill and bottle EVERY symptom was gone. Done. The car drives like the Brochure says it does.
I am about 2 fuel refills in and im Blown away. I now plan to use the fuel conditioner by the same company with each fill up.
Just try it, I got mine at pepboys.com for like 11 bux. I wish Id known about this product sooner.
I live in Toronto Canada wheee can I get this ?? And where do you put it ??
#75
Advanced
Did software update in December if 18 along with full flush at dealer and was good for awhile. But harsh shifting and judder is coming back. Going to contact customer care to see if they will replace converter.
#76
It also helped with my shifting. And changing the transmission fluid can make a world of difference as well. I tend to change with my oil myself. the trannys in these things are so delicate, For mine when the fluid get a few thousand miles on it the shifts get shifty...less smooth. But its available on amazon.
#77
This was a temp fix only. Depending on if we have the same issue. but there is a Youtube video where a guy shows you how to replace your transmission filter. That fixed a bubbling sound while driving. Its soft and subtle but you hear it.
It also helped with my shifting. And changing the transmission fluid can make a world of difference as well. I tend to change with my oil myself. the trannys in these things are so delicate, For mine when the fluid get a few thousand miles on it the shifts get shifty...less smooth. But its available on amazon.
It also helped with my shifting. And changing the transmission fluid can make a world of difference as well. I tend to change with my oil myself. the trannys in these things are so delicate, For mine when the fluid get a few thousand miles on it the shifts get shifty...less smooth. But its available on amazon.
#78
Thanks bro. I complained to my dealer about it The dealer changed my transmission oil and then had to order the filter for me then I had to go back for them to change it I’m still getting the sound. do you change your transmission oil your self ?? I’m thinking about just buying another filter and getting a transmission oil and doing it my self any recommendations ?? And I’m going to order that injector online hopefully I can find it on amazon. Also what is a “TSB”?? Thanks man
#79
Yes I change my transmission fluid, Transfer case Fluid, and Read Differential fluid myself. Do you have the 3.7 or 3.5? If you have the 3.7 Take it in to the dealer for an oil Consumption test. Since my car was using more than 1Qt per 1000-1500. each dealer is diff....But after I got the Oil consumption issue fiix EVERY knoc and ping gurgle, you name it went away. Its worth your time looking into it. Im 5,000 miles into it and the car runs like new.
#80
Do it ASAP. Like NOW. because they had a September deadline Im not sure if its still in effect. they fix it FOR FREE. here is the thread that talks about it. go in fo rthe oil consumption test. They will tell you they have to do an oil change iwth it i think. A few even cyphoned oil out to fail the test but they got their engine rebuilt on acura. Just make sur eyou check on thats ASAP