So my mechanic friend said my wheel bearings are going.

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Old 08-16-2016, 03:40 PM
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So my mechanic friend said my wheel bearings are going.

Hey guys,

So remember that vibration issue I had before? Well it started happening at ~20mph now. I took it to my mechanic friend, I trust him. I've known him for years so I know he's not trying to rip me off or anything. However he doesn't have a garage right now so he can't do the repair. He said that it's the front right bearing but we should replace both since the passenger side is probably going too.

Firestone's asking for ~800, I'm sure Acura will be 1000+.

It doesn't look like this is a DIY project right? The mechanic said he needs a press or something as well depending on how the car's setup but he doesn't know how it is without looking at it.

Any advice from you guys? What parts am I looking at (bearing + hub assembly)?

Thanks.
Old 08-16-2016, 08:17 PM
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FRONT BRAKE for 2010 Acura TL
here is the breakdown. #4 is all you should need. they are pressed on.
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Old 08-16-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by acurapartsdiscount
FRONT BRAKE for 2010 Acura TL
here is the breakdown. #4 is all you should need. they are pressed on.
Thanks! For this car there's no hub assembly right? Also do I need to purchase a new axle bolt or can I reuse the old one? The manual floating around here says to replace it.
Old 08-17-2016, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Blaze9
Thanks! For this car there's no hub assembly right? Also do I need to purchase a new axle bolt or can I reuse the old one? The manual floating around here says to replace it.
The car does NOT have a hub assembly. The bearing is in the knuckle assy.
KNUCKLE for 2010 Acura TL
You must remove the knuckle assy to place in a press to remove & install bearing. (disconnect bottom ball joint, top ball joint, drive shaft, tie rod, and brake caliper). You can reuse the drive axle nut (I have without problems) but if you plan ahead, order it online ... it's inexpensive.
Item 25 $3.78. http://www.acurapartsdiscount.com/au...alf-shaft-scat
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:11 PM
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Thank you guys so much for the part numbers. I just placed the order! Hope to have them in soon. It's also advised to not drive the car correct? It might mess up more things?

Also just to make sure, on the website it says "FR" that stands for front or "front-right"? If Front right, is there a different part for front-left?

I have done a bearing replacement before but it was a hub assembly which I just bought and replaced, First time doing a knuckle assembly removal, just wanna make sure everything is right. =)

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Old 08-18-2016, 10:43 AM
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same part # for left and right. I will get your order processed asap
Old 08-18-2016, 04:00 PM
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Below is the diagram you would want. My question is, why the hell has a wheel bearing on a six year old vehicle already failed? Come on Acura.



Last edited by mossman77; 08-18-2016 at 04:07 PM.
Old 08-18-2016, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mossman77
Below is the diagram you would want. My question is, why the hell has a wheel bearing on a six year old vehicle already failed? Come on Acura.
Thanks man. Yeah I have the service PDF and have been using it to inspect the car. Well the car has about 85k miles now, maybe w/ the high milage it's not abnormal. Not sure though.
Old 08-18-2016, 05:38 PM
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Get a second opinion. Your symptom sounds like a tire with a ply separation or shifted belt. I've never seen a wheel bearing with the symptoms you describe. Typically they make a roaring or whirring noise at 35mph and above.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TLer trash
Get a second opinion. Your symptom sounds like a tire with a ply separation or shifted belt. I've never seen a wheel bearing with the symptoms you describe. Typically they make a roaring or whirring noise at 35mph and above.
He checked the tires and rims before anything else, the tire doesn't look bad at all, and there's no major wear on anything.
Old 08-19-2016, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaze9
He checked the tires and rims before anything else, the tire doesn't look bad at all, and there's no major wear on anything.
You wouldn't be able to tell if the tire was bad by looking at it.

If you jack up the car and push/pull the wheels vigorously, is there a lot of play? If nice and tight, wheel bearings are probably fine.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:27 PM
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Like I said in your other thread, I'm having the same shaking issue at ~75mph, but not at 20mph as you describe. Tire balance did not change anything. Tomorrow I'm going to throw the front up on jack stands and inspect for excess play and rotation smoothness like mossman77 said. If that all checks out good, I'll rotate the two front tires and see what happens. I'm at 80k miles, so I will be very surprised if it is in fact the wheel bearings. Luckily, I have access to an arbor press, so changing them out wouldn't be too difficult. I've replaced the LCA bushings on my old Accord before... it took around 8 hours to remove and replace the control arms, and about 10 minutes to replacing the bushings on the press.

Blaze9, what tires do you have on your car? I've got the stock Michelin MXM4's for reference.
Old 08-20-2016, 03:49 PM
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Here's a video. The start I had the windows open but it's harder to hear. I closed them soon after. You can hear the Grinding noise and feel vibration through the driver side floor, heavily through the accelrator. I rode shotgun and I can't feel the vibration but can still hear the Grinding.

I proped up the front and tried to jiggle the wheel but it did not show any visual sign of bearing trouble. Just the sound.

https://youtu.be/bJpL8AIEwH0

Also I have bridgestone turanza serenity plus 245/50 r17 tires.

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Old 08-22-2016, 09:21 AM
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If the wheels are tight and there is no uneven wear on your tires, then my best guess is you have a bad carrier bearing on your propeller shaft.
Old 08-31-2016, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TLer trash
Get a second opinion. Your symptom sounds like a tire with a ply separation or shifted belt. I've never seen a wheel bearing with the symptoms you describe. Typically they make a roaring or whirring noise at 35mph and above.
This. Jack up the car and point all 4 corners on jack stands, turn off VSA, put the car in drive (if it's an auto), and watch the tires spin from the front of the vehicle. If you watch the center ribs (the ones that go all the way around the circumference of the tire), they should stay perfectly straight. If they wobble side to side, your tires are separated. If that sounds too intense for you, rotate the from tires to the rear and vise versa, and see if the vehicle starts shaking instead of your steering wheel.
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mossman77
You wouldn't be able to tell if the tire was bad by looking at it.

If you jack up the car and push/pull the wheels vigorously, is there a lot of play? If nice and tight, wheel bearings are probably fine.
I've only seen Honda wheel bearings bad enough that they have play once or twice... not common at all. And that was on cars with 300K km's or more.
Old 08-31-2016, 10:05 PM
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That being said... One of my front wheel bearings started making noise at about 85000 km's. Car had sat on the used lot at the dealership for about a year and there was a bunch of rust accumulation in the knuckle.
Old 09-11-2016, 12:42 AM
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So we replaced one of the wheelbearings, driver side. That one was "bad" but not "shot" according to the mechanic. He took a look at the passenger side and said it was still perfect, he couldn't feel any grittyness or anything like that.

Vibration has been lowered, sound too, but it's still there. We're gonna take it to a shop and see what's actually going on. I feel terrible driving her in this condition, I'm afraid of damaging something more expensive if I keep driving the car!

Lets see what they say.
Old 09-24-2016, 07:10 PM
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To all the guys who said the tires were bad/split/something, Thank you!!! It was the tires. They're heavily "cupped" as my friend told me. He replaced both bearings, I have the Right hand one and it's still smooth, but the left hand one was a bit sticky at one location. However that wasn't the cause of the terrible noise and the vibrations. We rotated the wheels back to their previous position and the nose/vibration is gone! Well noise is totally gone, just a bit of vibration which is felt in the back. He told me to wait till the front wheels are worn down more, around 10k more miles then replace all 4.

He said he's gonna check the wheels again in around 4 months to see if the rear shocks are bad and that's what's causing the wheels to lose contact w/ the ground. He said that that's the most likely issue, though the car drives/feels fine.

Again, thanks everyone! I really appreciate it! You guys saved me a couple hundred. He only charged me a hundred for both bearings and 2 cases of beer =) Haha.
Old 09-27-2016, 10:38 AM
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It was the tires. They're heavily "cupped" as my friend told me.
That's great, but something caused the tires to cup, so keep your fingers crossed.
Old 09-27-2016, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mossman77
That's great, but something caused the tires to cup, so keep your fingers crossed.
Yup, correct. He said after looking at the rear shocks again he wants to replace them and then when the front wheels wear down we'll replace all 4 wheels (tires). Any recommendations for parts?
Old 09-27-2016, 02:00 PM
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Oem
Old 11-22-2016, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
Oem

Awesome, just replaced them. Thanks buddy =)
Old 11-24-2016, 11:00 AM
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Let us know "when the wheels wear down".
I'm curious to know what that means?
Old 11-24-2016, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jim_c
Let us know "when the wheels wear down".
I'm curious to know what that means?
So right now the front wheels are at a lower thread depth than the rear wheels. But I can't rotate them because my rear wheels are totally messed up due to the bad suspension (very bumpy threads so if I do rotate then I get that grinding/wobbly noise.). So I'm keeping the back tires on the back until the front wheels are worn down to a "you need to replace these" depth. Then I'll replace all 4 of the wheels.
Old 11-25-2016, 11:26 PM
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I did my driver side a few weeks back. I have to say the grinding noise went away, now the ride is much smoother the only thing i hear now is the road noise from my tires. I did a rotation today and the tires from the rear create way more noise now before the rotate. I was just getting use to the quiet ride. ACRDR a member on AZ said I might have to change the passenger side in the future.
Old 01-11-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by real_mckoy
I did my driver side a few weeks back. I have to say the grinding noise went away, now the ride is much smoother the only thing i hear now is the road noise from my tires. I did a rotation today and the tires from the rear create way more noise now before the rotate. I was just getting use to the quiet ride. ACRDR a member on AZ said I might have to change the passenger side in the future.
I would suggest doing them in pairs. He did the other side a week or two after and it did make a bit of a difference.
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