PiFive

Hello. I bought a 2013 TL a month ago. This car came with one key fob. Driver 2 key fob. So I want to have another key just in case something happens to the one I already have. I have read in forums and I have seen that I can buy it online and program it myself. Of course a locksmith will have to carve the new key like my current one but I have many questions.

1. Do i need to buy a Driver 1 key fob?
2. IF I buy a Driver 2 key fob will cause issues?
3. Where to find a programming guide for my keyless entry car? I have seen many videos but they use a key on the steering column. Our TLs dont have that.
4. Any difference between an OEM key fob or generic?

Any help highly appreciated.

Dark1

iTrader: (1)

You will most likely need to go to the dealer. At that point get the correct FOB. All the independent locksmiths I went to use a machine from Advance Diagnostics. Two of them told me they don't have the dongle needed for it. The third one told me he refused to do Acuras. Something in the programming can prevent emergency starts. I found a fourth that might do it but he said it was only a didity fifty chance it would work. I made the appointment and he said he would call the day before to confirm. Well he never did so I figured he really did not want the business based on it being an Acura. Please let us know how it works out if you get it done from an Indy. Good luck

PiFive

Thank you for the reply. Now when you said get the correct FOB? ...DO i have to get a Driver 1? or I can use another driver 2 FOB?. Also I Have a friend that works at HONDA. Can HONDA also do programming on Acuras FOBs?

Thanks once again.

Ron A

You must get a Driver 1 keyfob if you expect to control the Driver 1 settings. Another Driver 2 keyfob will work exactly as your current Driver 2 keyfob.

That's why there is a Driver 1 key fob and a Driver 2 keyfob-to control the appropriate setting of the buttons inside the car.

I would think Honda can do the programming for an Acura keyfob but you could always ask your friend.

jsolorio

I'm in same boat as PIFive. I purchased a 2010 TL this week that only came with the Driver 1 fob. I purchased a new fob to have programmed at the dealership, but didn't know to order a Driver 2 fob. Does it matter if you use 2 Driver 1 fobs? I just want to have a spare/backup.

Sylvester Womack

I just bought a switchblade key fob off ebay and had a locksmith cut the key and do the transponder. I had just a valet key that was set to Driver 2, for some reason, when I bought the car. I programmed the keyless entry myself in my 2009 TL by following post #3 from https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p...remote-581207/. Now, no matter how much my girl adjusts the driver seat for herself, it always goes back to Driver 1 settings when I unlock the car.

'99-6SIC6

Some information on keys, key fobs and programming.......

All Honda/Acura vehicles from as early as 1998 have incorporated the immobilizer function into the ignition system. Some early Acura models such as the RL, have used a red learner key to program the immobilizer to the vehicle. The 1997 Honda Prelude also used this red learner key for programming purposes. The whole reasoning behind the immobilizer function in our vehicles is obviously to prevent theft...

I've worked for Acura and now Honda for over 10 years as a parts specialist. I've cut hundreds of keys for every model in both lineups and I'll tell you one thing...9 times out of 10, the vehicle needs to be at the dealership in order for the process to work. It's like this....

The very first part of cutting a key is to get the VIN. The VIN will tell the parts department or locksmith the proper key code for the vehicle. Then, the key portion, or shank - is placed into a machine and upon proper input of code, the machine makes a series of cuts into the shank. These cuts are all in relation to the tumblers inside the cylinders of the vehicle, allowing smooth access to the cylinder and manipulation of the tumblers to lock and unlock the vehicle. That's why it's a simple procedure for any Joe Shmoe locksmith to cut a key. They get the right series of cuts in line, cut the key and it's done, simple. The programming part of this process is more complicated...

The immobilizer communicates with the key through the key's electronic chip. The chip is inside the head of the key or within the fob portion of the key, depending on how the key is designed. This is all dependent on model year and trim level of said vehicle. Keys and styles of keys have changed quite a bit over the last 19 years and while a certain model may have continued a particular style, others have changed. Again, this is all in relation to the model and how American Honda has chosen to update the key. The immobilizer chip IS NOT available separately from the key. That's why you CANNOT simply replace portions of a broken key or fob and expect it to start your vehicle without programming. I've explained this process over a thousand times to customers who simply cannot comprehend WHY it has to work this way. It's actually very simple and hopefully you guys have understood up to this point about WHY. No immobilizer chip = no communication with immobilizer unit = no start. Easy...

Your local Honda / Acura dealer has a tool called the Honda Diagnostic System or HDS. This is a computer tablet only available to certified Honda and Acura dealers. It is used to communicate with the vehicle so that the technician can diagnose and correct issues, run systems checks, check for DTCs, program keys to immobilizers, etc. Again, this HDS is only available to dealerships and therefore your local locksmith isn't going to have it readily available in the back of their truck. This is why the comments above about locksmiths declining the work or not responding to a key cutting opportunity, do not surprise me. They simplly do not have the tools required to complete the job...

While many locksmiths do carry electronic code readers and gadgets that will allow them some degree of insight about a vehicle, many do not. I've yet to hear about any locksmith in the DC metropolitan area that are able to cut AND program a Honda/Acura key completely, on the go, without involving the dealership. I'm not saying it's not possible, I'm simply saying that without the HDS or an equivalent programming tool, it simply won't work. That's why I say 9 times out of 10, the customer will need to be here at the dealership for a new key to be cut...

Furthermore...

It's 100% up to the customer about whether or not to use OEM Honda/Acura parts or to use Ebay/aftermarket keys. Obviously, with the aftermarket - you run the risk of poor quality and/or craftsmanship, cheap materials, etc. The opposite is true for OEM parts - everything is 100% Honda genuine and is covered under warranty. The materials used are guaranteed to hold up over time and work exactly the way they should. While my team here at Honda charges customers for keys and the labor involved to program them, we also discourage customers from bringing in aftermarket parts for us to work with. As such, we do not guarantee the programming side of it and charge an additional "key cutting" fee for aftermarket keys being used in our machine. The reasoning behind this should be obvious by the things I listed above but I'll go into further detail to clarify...

The machine we have here at Honda is set up and programmed to operate using OEM parts. It's calibrated for the exact dimensions of Honda parts and only Honda parts. So, say the Ebay key a customer brings in just happens to be .00001mm too thick...this will no doubt cause an error in the cutting process and ruin the key. Also, the cutting blades in the machine are of very high quality and specific to our Honda dealership. They are used on a daily basis and as such, must be replaced whenever the sensors detect them to be dull and unsafe for further use. These blades are over $150 EACH...think about that for a second...is an additional "key cutting" fee so far out of the question? We always explain the risks and fees involved with using aftermarket keys to our customers before we begin the process, this is protocol for us here. I know many dealers in this area simply refuse anything not of OEM origin and rightly so. Just some further insight into this process from us here at Honda...

Anyway, I hope this information is useful to some of you guys in regards to how keys and related components are done through dealerships. Hopefully someone will be able to reference this post and get answers to questions and have good, reliable info to go on. Here are the OEM part numbers for 2013 Acura TL keys/fobs for the OP...

2013 ACURA TL BASE MODEL

DRIVER 1 KEY/FOB : 35113-TK4-A00

DRIVER 2 KEY/FOB : 35113-TK4-A10

2013 ACURA TL TECH/ADVANCE

DRIVER 1 FOB : 35114-TK4-A71

DRIVER 2 FOB : 35114-TK4-A81

EMERGENCY KEY : 35113-TK4-A50

champaned_out

iTrader: (2)

reviving from the dead cause i have a related question to this topic

just picked up a used TL-S, previous owner only had the valet key and driver 2 key
I really dont need a 2nd key nor do i want to spend the money on it since i have a valet as a emergency back up
can I purchase a uncut, unprogrammed blank Driver 1 Fob and swap over the transponder chip and the key blade?
I've taken apart the switch blade key a while back and remember the all these parts being separate so i feel like it should work?
I'm thinking all I would need to do is program the fob remote itself which i believe owners can do as long as we follow the correct steps

RenoTL

I am confused. You say you are happy having a valet key and a Fob yet you want to get a Driver 1 Fob. Why? The Driver 2 Fob you have serves the same purpose that a Driver 1 Fob would do. Either Fob holds your settings for the seat, mirrors, audio, etc. The only difference would be which light on the door (1 or 2) would be lit.

champaned_out

iTrader: (2)

apparently you arent confused because you understood the question and recited it back just fine
didnt realize i needed to provide a reason before you provide an answer lol
but the answer is because i personally prefer having the driver 1 key even though it serves no additional purpose, just my personal preference since its my car... if its as simple as buying just a shell and swapping the key blade and chip over then it would be something i would consider... if it requires programming which would cost significantly more it wouldnt be worth the trouble

does that answer your why?

csmeance

Yes you can do that! If you want 2 working keys, cut the valet key up and take the chip out of it and put it in your new key that's driver 1. Program the unlock/lock buttons and you are done!

Only difference is that the "remote" portion would link to the mem 1 button on the door and say welcome driver 1 vs driver 2.

RenoTL

You sound a bit perturbed. No offensive was intended on my part. I was just trying to understand your point of view. Whatever floats your boat is OK by me. Go for it!