Cel p0506
Cel p0506
My 2010 SH AWD threw a code at a red light yesterday. P0506. I cleared the CEL when i got home with my OBD2 Reader. Has anybody else come across this?
Was there a throttle plate position reset procedure? I remember seeing some procedure before where you hold down the gas for 30s while engine is not running in the "on" position? (or 20s? i don't quite remember the exact procedure). Then start the engine and drive for 20 mins.
Could bad gas cause this? I filled up at a new station 2 days ago...
https://www.engine-codes.com/p0506_acura.html
Was there a throttle plate position reset procedure? I remember seeing some procedure before where you hold down the gas for 30s while engine is not running in the "on" position? (or 20s? i don't quite remember the exact procedure). Then start the engine and drive for 20 mins.
Could bad gas cause this? I filled up at a new station 2 days ago...
https://www.engine-codes.com/p0506_acura.html
P0506 ACURA Possible Causes
- Dirty throttle body
- Electric throttle control actuator misadjusted or damaged
- Faulty Electric throttle control actuator
- Intake air leak
- Poor electrical connection to the Intake Air Control (IAC) valve
Was the idle lower than normal or the engine running rough? I'd first check for vacuum leaks. After that I'd just give everything related to intake a good cleaning. It wouldn't hurt to disconnect your air intake tube and use some throttle body cleaner on the throttle plate. I'd disconnect any electrical connectors such as the ones to the MAP and MAF sensors and throttle body itself and clean them with some CRC electrical cleaner. Remove the MAP and MAF sensors and clean those too (just with the electronic cleaner - no rags or anything).
Was the idle lower than normal or the engine running rough? I'd first check for vacuum leaks. After that I'd just give everything related to intake a good cleaning. It wouldn't hurt to disconnect your air intake tube and use some throttle body cleaner on the throttle plate. I'd disconnect any electrical connectors such as the ones to the MAP and MAF sensors and throttle body itself and clean them with some CRC electrical cleaner. Remove the MAP and MAF sensors and clean those too (just with the electronic cleaner - no rags or anything).
I found the ECU+Transmission reset procedure. Did that just now and all symptoms still the same.
I filled up one night and only made it 15-20 miles before sputtering and powering down while driving on the interstate. I made it to the shoulder, but it would only start for a second or two and then cut off.
I ended up having it towed to the dealership. Contaminated gas was the culprit (water).
That's bizarre. I don't see that causing a CEL. But hey, if that solved it then more power to ya. Let us know if it comes back.
Good to hear.
I filled up one night and only made it 15-20 miles before sputtering and powering down while driving on the interstate. I made it to the shoulder, but it would only start for a second or two and then cut off.
I ended up having it towed to the dealership. Contaminated gas was the culprit (water).
I filled up one night and only made it 15-20 miles before sputtering and powering down while driving on the interstate. I made it to the shoulder, but it would only start for a second or two and then cut off.
I ended up having it towed to the dealership. Contaminated gas was the culprit (water).
Yeah... you, me and my mechanic as well lol. My mech and I weren't sure if it was the only thing wrong, but it was definitely the main culprit for the huge rpm dips to 400-500. The RPM still dips a bit when the ac condenser kicks in, but that's normal. I'm still driving around with my OBDII reader in my cup holder just in case i need to clear a code. My daily commute is pretty far.
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