2010 TL AWD 6 Speed Manual Clutch issues
08-25-2015, 05:08 PM
#42
I'm at 45.4k and the clutch SLOWLY seems to be going out... or I'm being paranoid.
ACURA is giving me the runaround telling me they will NOT replace the clutch and that I MUST pay for the inspection.
Mind you; I'm still under warranty at 45k......
anyone have any input???
2012 Acura Tl SH-AWD 6MT.
ACURA is giving me the runaround telling me they will NOT replace the clutch and that I MUST pay for the inspection.
Mind you; I'm still under warranty at 45k......
anyone have any input???
2012 Acura Tl SH-AWD 6MT.
08-25-2015, 11:54 PM
#46
they wouldn't let me get to that... I made an appointment and they called saying that they would not be able to do an oil consumption test since it wasn't in the TSB for my VIN and if my clutch is going out then they can remove transmission and check the clutch and if they deem it their fault then they'll replace but I still have to pay until they admit it's them.
i've owned 6 different stick shift vehicles, including an e36 m3 and a 2001 honda prelude SH , I KNOW how to drive stick shift... it has to be premature ware.. .sigh.
i've owned 6 different stick shift vehicles, including an e36 m3 and a 2001 honda prelude SH , I KNOW how to drive stick shift... it has to be premature ware.. .sigh.
09-09-2015, 10:03 PM
#47
1st Gear
Join Date: Sep 2015
Age: 56
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hefrum / Hefrum86 had to re-register
I have owned this car for about three years now, and I truly love the performance and handling of this vehicle. However about a month ago I noticed that when I stepped on the gas with the car in a higher gear with the engine RPM about 2500 I noticed the tach jumping up about 3k before the drivetrain would catch up.I also noticed that If I hit resume on the cruise control to soon that the tach would jump up and the cruise would deactivate.
I took the car back to Acura to find that I too do not know how to drive a 6 SPMT. I have owned Sports cars with manual transmissions for years. I have never had a clutch fail at 49k miles on a vehicle that is only 3 years old. My friendly dealer also informed me that the clutch is a wear item not covered by warranty. For $3,750.00 they would be happy to fix the car with OEM parts.
I truly believe that Acura has a design problem here...
I have been doing some research for alternative clutch packages that might prove to be more reliable. I found a stage two clutch that uses Kevlar...
This is a Phoenix Friction Stage 2 Kevlar Street Performance Clutch Kit. The kit features an OE Pressure Plate and a Phoenix Friction high heat Kevlar spring dampened disc. This Kevlar clutch guarantees a chatter free engagement, and is without a doubt the smoothest engaging clutch on the market today. It will provide up to a 20% increase in engine torque capacity over the OE clutch. At the same time, you will not notice any increase in pedal effort over the stock clutch. Since there are no metal or abrasive particles in the friction material, Kevlar significantly reduces flywheel wear, and provides 300% longer life than that of original equipment under normal driving conditions. Note: Kevlar is a high tech material that needs up to a 1000 mile break in period to properly seat for optimum performance.
Can anyone enlighten me on the difference between the factory stage one clutch compared to this stage two design?
I plan to take my time to understand the best way to fix this problem without adding unnecessary force / wear and tear on the motor or drive train..
Well I went to log back into AcuraZine web page to research what other Acura TL SHAWD w/ MT owners were experiencing with their cars and I realized that my Hotmail account was no longer in use. I had no clue what my original password was for the Hefrum account, so I had no choice but to re-register as Hefrum86.
So first off I wanted to let you know that I drove my 2011 Acura TL SHAWD an additional 3K miles to and from work until I could no longer trust the clutch.
After that, I left it sit for about two months while I finished up a home improvement project. With that task completed, I used the Acura Factory Service Manual for the 2011 TL to disassemble the car in my garage to the point where I have the transmission (as well as most of the front end) removed.
I have done some additional research on possible replacement parts that I hope will out perform Acura's OEM clutch package.
I am currently waiting on a tool to secure the flywheel from rotating while I remove the fasteners before I remove the clutch and flywheel assembly.
I will be continuing this post to share with you what I can concerning the condition of the worn components that I remove from the car, as well as what replacement parts I plan to install to hopefully improve what I suspect is a poorly designed clutch / flywheel setup....
12-12-2015, 08:43 AM
#48
1st Gear
Join Date: Dec 2015
Age: 53
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clutch and Engine Problems
I had to change my clutch at 100,000 km and the told me it was not covered because it was a wear item. I have drive standards for 35 years and never had to replace a clutch. I had a Honda civic for 11 years 368,000 km never had any issues with the clutch. They told me I was riding the clutch and they were not having any issues with the with any clutch complaints on the car. Acura wanted $4,000 to change the clutch. I had it done by another garage for $ 1,600 with Acura parts.
I am having the same issue with the hill assist and they told me they could not find anything. It seem to happen when I am stuck in traffic for extended period of time. Stop and go stop and go.
My car was having issues with oil loss. I took it in before the warranty was up. I was going through 4 litres of oil between changes. I asked if that was normal. After I paid them to conduct a oil calibration and they confirmed the car was going through 4 litres of oil they told me it was normal. Specification state 1 litre for every 1,500 km is considered normal. Why they could not tell me when I asked them is beyond me. I had to pay them to tell me they were not going to do anything. I do not consider a car burning through 4 litres of oil between changes as normal.
My car is at 141,000 km. I took the car in for some engine noise. They told me it was valve timing and it was going to cost $500. The next week they said it didn't fix the problem and they needed to machine the head at $1,700 which they change after the work to $1'950. When to opened the head they told me there was engine wear that was going to cost $3,500. After I freaked they said they could ask for goodwill. They came back with $500 but increased the cost of the repair to $4,100. I called in to head office and they told me they could not help any further. I called the dealer back and they would not budge on the price and told me I did not get more than $500 goodwill because I did not have the oil changes outside of the warranty period done by Acura dealerships.
They have had the car for one month. I have asked in writing what is the extent of the engine wear, what is the long term life of this engine, how badly are the parts worn, why did to engine wear occur. Just yesterday they answered some of the questions that the items are worn and require replacement. They could not tell why the engine had worn but accused me of using poor quality oil. I had told them I was using Castro synthetic oil but they said since I did not provide the the SAE numbers which they did not ask for they could not verify the acceptability of the oil. They cannot verify there is not more wear in the engine. Now they are suggesting that I have the whole engine reconditioned for another $2,500.
On top of all of this they had an accident with the car and punched a whole through the bumper which they offered to repair for $279.
Needless to say I am not happy with mechanical issues of the car and Acura customer support. This will be my last Honda product I buy.
I am having the same issue with the hill assist and they told me they could not find anything. It seem to happen when I am stuck in traffic for extended period of time. Stop and go stop and go.
My car was having issues with oil loss. I took it in before the warranty was up. I was going through 4 litres of oil between changes. I asked if that was normal. After I paid them to conduct a oil calibration and they confirmed the car was going through 4 litres of oil they told me it was normal. Specification state 1 litre for every 1,500 km is considered normal. Why they could not tell me when I asked them is beyond me. I had to pay them to tell me they were not going to do anything. I do not consider a car burning through 4 litres of oil between changes as normal.
My car is at 141,000 km. I took the car in for some engine noise. They told me it was valve timing and it was going to cost $500. The next week they said it didn't fix the problem and they needed to machine the head at $1,700 which they change after the work to $1'950. When to opened the head they told me there was engine wear that was going to cost $3,500. After I freaked they said they could ask for goodwill. They came back with $500 but increased the cost of the repair to $4,100. I called in to head office and they told me they could not help any further. I called the dealer back and they would not budge on the price and told me I did not get more than $500 goodwill because I did not have the oil changes outside of the warranty period done by Acura dealerships.
They have had the car for one month. I have asked in writing what is the extent of the engine wear, what is the long term life of this engine, how badly are the parts worn, why did to engine wear occur. Just yesterday they answered some of the questions that the items are worn and require replacement. They could not tell why the engine had worn but accused me of using poor quality oil. I had told them I was using Castro synthetic oil but they said since I did not provide the the SAE numbers which they did not ask for they could not verify the acceptability of the oil. They cannot verify there is not more wear in the engine. Now they are suggesting that I have the whole engine reconditioned for another $2,500.
On top of all of this they had an accident with the car and punched a whole through the bumper which they offered to repair for $279.
Needless to say I am not happy with mechanical issues of the car and Acura customer support. This will be my last Honda product I buy.
12-12-2015, 11:11 AM
#49
Drifting
You have one lousy dealer, for sure.
12-12-2015, 01:45 PM
#50
Burning Brakes
I feel bad for you guys and we are in a sorry state when high end "luxury" car dealerships treat customers so badly. I am a former licensed mechanic myself although I have not worked in the trade for many years.
As you may have figured out, there is hardly anyone at a modern car dealership who really knows what they are doing when it comes to diagnosis and repair. The managers and service advisors know very little about cars. If you are lucky you will find a small number of experienced technicians (mechanics) who actually know what they are talking about and know how to do diagnosis and repair in a professional manner. Most of the techs are just parts replacers. They are good at replacing parts but most of them know little about transmissions and clutches, let alone torque converters, lol. Your best recourse is to find a mechanic who works on drivetrains every day, and who knows how to actually rebuild components, not just replace them with new ones.
As you may have figured out, there is hardly anyone at a modern car dealership who really knows what they are doing when it comes to diagnosis and repair. The managers and service advisors know very little about cars. If you are lucky you will find a small number of experienced technicians (mechanics) who actually know what they are talking about and know how to do diagnosis and repair in a professional manner. Most of the techs are just parts replacers. They are good at replacing parts but most of them know little about transmissions and clutches, let alone torque converters, lol. Your best recourse is to find a mechanic who works on drivetrains every day, and who knows how to actually rebuild components, not just replace them with new ones.
12-15-2015, 10:41 PM
#51
When my car was torn apart for the short block replacement @ 64,067 miles, it was obvious the clutch was in bad shape. Acura covered 70% of the clutch replacement cost. It was abused by the looks of the components in the original clutch.
Never an issue, not one, with the 5MT 1992 Accord I drove for 22 years and 190K miles. I, too, believe I know how to drive a Honda-built manual transmission. Luckily, my dealer never accused me of not knowing how to handle the gear box.
Now that the car is better hands, and feet, this clutch will get more than 65K miles.
Never an issue, not one, with the 5MT 1992 Accord I drove for 22 years and 190K miles. I, too, believe I know how to drive a Honda-built manual transmission. Luckily, my dealer never accused me of not knowing how to handle the gear box.
Now that the car is better hands, and feet, this clutch will get more than 65K miles.
12-30-2016, 07:32 AM
#53
5th Gear
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Baltimore
Age: 61
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hefrum/hefrum86,
What ever happened with your clutch replacement? Which clutch set up did you end up using? Just bought a 2013 with 36k and want to research best options. I definitely intend to drive the car with out fear....Previous 2004 accord with 5mt has original clutch at 253k and still going strong...but its not awd and not a v6.....
What ever happened with your clutch replacement? Which clutch set up did you end up using? Just bought a 2013 with 36k and want to research best options. I definitely intend to drive the car with out fear....Previous 2004 accord with 5mt has original clutch at 253k and still going strong...but its not awd and not a v6.....
02-14-2017, 07:27 AM
#54
Is any one having their clutch fail. I took my 2010 TL 6 speed manual (only 4622 miles) in to the dealer because I noticed a smell similar to pesticide coming from the engine. I was told that I was riding the clutch. That the clutch coating was burning. I have had a Manual for the last 25 years and I know how to operate a manual. Acura is replacing it "as a courtesy" but I am wondering if any one else is having this issue. Also my hill assist fail error keeps popping up. I see in another thread that this is a problem, but I am wondering if there is a correlation.
hey did you ever find what was the problem with this? Seems like I am having the same problem with my car. Has the smell and the hill assist popping up with a code on the dash.
02-14-2017, 07:59 AM
#56
So what do you feel is the proper technique to driving the TL? I didn't know the clutch in TL was much different from driving any other manual car in the world. But I'm all open ears to new ideas if it saves me from spending more money on the car.👀👂🏽
02-14-2017, 08:06 AM
#57
it's VERY hard to explain to you over text.
just know that the TL is super hard to master.
in order to get smooth shifts, YOU NEED to slip the clutch, which is bad!!! but that's the only way to get pretty smooth shifts.
the clutch engagement point is very inconsistent and I find that I slip or ride the clutch during initial first gear get up and go's.
unless you figure out proper seat position and feet position, you will always damage the clutch EVERY single time.
it's a learning the car type of thing, adjust your behavior to match the cars characteristics.
just know that the TL is super hard to master.
in order to get smooth shifts, YOU NEED to slip the clutch, which is bad!!! but that's the only way to get pretty smooth shifts.
the clutch engagement point is very inconsistent and I find that I slip or ride the clutch during initial first gear get up and go's.
unless you figure out proper seat position and feet position, you will always damage the clutch EVERY single time.
it's a learning the car type of thing, adjust your behavior to match the cars characteristics.
The following users liked this post:
CLkid187 (02-14-2017)
02-14-2017, 08:12 AM
#58
one of the biggest offenders is holding it in gear while stopped!
if you are doing this, i would advise to stop!
scenario A:
4th gear cruising at 55 and you see traffic signal going to yellloow and then red..
you should stay in gear til you hit the light, when you're at the light...put the car in neutral and hold the car with the brakes.
when green, put the car in gear and go.
if you are doing this, i would advise to stop!
scenario A:
4th gear cruising at 55 and you see traffic signal going to yellloow and then red..
you should stay in gear til you hit the light, when you're at the light...put the car in neutral and hold the car with the brakes.
when green, put the car in gear and go.
The following users liked this post:
CLkid187 (02-14-2017)
02-14-2017, 09:04 AM
#59
one of the biggest offenders is holding it in gear while stopped!
if you are doing this, i would advise to stop!
scenario A:
4th gear cruising at 55 and you see traffic signal going to yellloow and then red..
you should stay in gear til you hit the light, when you're at the light...put the car in neutral and hold the car with the brakes.
when green, put the car in gear and go.
if you are doing this, i would advise to stop!
scenario A:
4th gear cruising at 55 and you see traffic signal going to yellloow and then red..
you should stay in gear til you hit the light, when you're at the light...put the car in neutral and hold the car with the brakes.
when green, put the car in gear and go.
for the most part this is how I drive my car. But I can say sometimes I do keep it in gear at a light but not most of the time. If I do see a light about to turn from yellow to red though I down shift all the way down to first going through all the gears of course depending on where I'm at coming up to the light. My second gear kinda gives a hard shift going into the gear and leaving the gear so that's the only gear that I usually ride the clutch a little but other than that I don't ride it. So if there is something that I could do differently after I figure out the problem I definitely will give it a try.
01-28-2019, 11:45 AM
#61
Hoping people are still monitoring this thread.
I have a 2012 TL SH-AWD w/tech package and MT. At 120k miles, the clutch is giving out. My local garage, which I have trusted for years, is quoting $2900 for a replacement, parts/labor. This sounds high to me, but I don't trust my local Acura dealer.
Anyone know if this is a reasonable quote, or if I need to look elsewhere? Not a mechanic myself, so please don't suggest doing it myself.
Thanks!
I have a 2012 TL SH-AWD w/tech package and MT. At 120k miles, the clutch is giving out. My local garage, which I have trusted for years, is quoting $2900 for a replacement, parts/labor. This sounds high to me, but I don't trust my local Acura dealer.
Anyone know if this is a reasonable quote, or if I need to look elsewhere? Not a mechanic myself, so please don't suggest doing it myself.
Thanks!
01-28-2019, 11:47 AM
#62
P.S. I live in the DC area, so there's a certain amount over a national average that I would expect, because it's a high rent/cost area. $2,900 just seemed really high.
01-28-2019, 02:12 PM
#63
What exactly is your clutch doing (or not doing)? Have you had an independent shop look at it? Is it slipping? Is it difficult to engage?
I've got a 2004 TL with 275,000 miles and the clutch is still going strong....
I've got a 2004 TL with 275,000 miles and the clutch is still going strong....
The following users liked this post:
talechaser (01-28-2019)
01-28-2019, 02:47 PM
#64
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Age: 68
Posts: 7,844
Received 2,005 Likes
on
1,407 Posts
Hoping people are still monitoring this thread.
I have a 2012 TL SH-AWD w/tech package and MT. At 120k miles, the clutch is giving out. My local garage, which I have trusted for years, is quoting $2900 for a replacement, parts/labor. This sounds high to me, but I don't trust my local Acura dealer.
Anyone know if this is a reasonable quote, or if I need to look elsewhere? Not a mechanic myself, so please don't suggest doing it myself.
Thanks!
I have a 2012 TL SH-AWD w/tech package and MT. At 120k miles, the clutch is giving out. My local garage, which I have trusted for years, is quoting $2900 for a replacement, parts/labor. This sounds high to me, but I don't trust my local Acura dealer.
Anyone know if this is a reasonable quote, or if I need to look elsewhere? Not a mechanic myself, so please don't suggest doing it myself.
Thanks!
01-28-2019, 02:49 PM
#65
Slipping, yes. Both when shifting, and when asking for gas when in gear. The independent shop, which I have long trusted, quoted $2900, and I just wanted to validate that this was a ballpark reasonable number.
01-28-2019, 02:56 PM
#66
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Age: 68
Posts: 7,844
Received 2,005 Likes
on
1,407 Posts
One question to ask them before you commit to them doing the work is if they have the special tool necessary to pre-adjust the LuK pressure plate. If they don't, you might want to look for a new shop with the tool and knows how to use it properly.
The following users liked this post:
talechaser (01-28-2019)
06-06-2019, 10:59 PM
#67
My clutch is starting to slip too at 110 000 km. Mostly noticeable in 4 gear and above. If cruising at 80 to 100 km/h in 6th and floor it to accelerate, rpm climb up 500 to 600 rpm before dropping back down and then car accelerates. Very frustrating as my cls6 has over 250000 km or so on it on original clutch and no slipping on that. Hopefully wont need to replace flywheel. Acura gonna take a look at it...some local shops said usually dont need to replace flywheel and said about 1600 dollar range to replace clutch.
06-10-2019, 12:21 PM
#69
Seems like most people recommend replacing the dual mass flywheel. Unfortunate that they are so expensive! Wonder how car will feel with the new clutch, flywheel and then pistons, etc. Sucks I going to have to shell out so much for the clutch/flywheel..but excited at the same time. Too bad cant get dealership to install HFPç 
Last edited by gurot1; 06-10-2019 at 12:24 PM.
11-15-2019, 01:38 AM
#70
Just thought I would provide an update. So it was about 3500 CDN to have clutch and flywheel replaced. The car is definitely smoother than before. It is also quicker as no more slipping! When first changed the clutch pedal had almost no resistance and the bite point was very low. After a few hundred KM the bite point moved up a bit and there is more resistance in pedal...feeling more like I was expecting it to. The bite point has moved to about the halfway mark of the clutch pedal over the past few months. It hasnt seemed to move any further than that. The clutch still grabs nicely and no slipping. Overall I must say I am happy with it. Also, the car shifts smoother now.
11-15-2019, 07:33 AM
#72
11-15-2019, 09:18 AM
#73
Instructor
Replaced my clutch recently as well. $580 for the OEM clutch off rockatuo and $900 for labor to get it installed from my mechanic. Thank god I didn't NEED to replace the flywheel too, as that would have set me back alot. Car drives and shifts smooth so I'm happy.
07-09-2020, 12:01 AM
#76
Intermediate
I have a 2010 TL, bought it from the original owner with 115,000 miles on it. The clutch had been done at 64,000 miles and again at 109,000 miles. I currently have 139,000 miles and the clutch feels fine, but obviously I have no way of knowing if the prior owner was causing the premature wear of the clutch or if the clutch is just poorly designed for this engine and doesn’t last long.
07-09-2020, 12:23 AM
#77
I have a 2010 TL, bought it from the original owner with 115,000 miles on it. The clutch had been done at 64,000 miles and again at 109,000 miles. I currently have 139,000 miles and the clutch feels fine, but obviously I have no way of knowing if the prior owner was causing the premature wear of the clutch or if the clutch is just poorly designed for this engine and doesn’t last long.
Was the work done by the dealer? Perhaps he didn’t really know how to drive a clutch... As much as I love my 3rd Gen 6MT, I will admit that the OEM clutch feel is on the vague side and easy to slip unless you really concentrate on it. I’m not going to tell you how to drive a clutch, but if the 4th Gen feel is anything like the 3rd Gen, you need to develop a real “feel” for it. I’ve got almost 290,000 miles on the original clutch! Oh, and don’t let anyone else drive it!
Take care,
TL-Rocket
07-09-2020, 01:45 PM
#78
Intermediate
Yea, Acura if Boston did the clutch replacements both times, and didn’t charge him anything for it but replaced it both times as a “goodwill gesture” because of the premature failing, so at least the dealership stepped up and replaced it just on the basis of miles, not knowing if this guy was the cause or not. I find the clutch fairly easy to use myself, it doesn’t always engage at the exact same point but I’ve driven a clutch for most of my 26 years driving so I don’t find it as difficult a clutch as some do, but not everyone has that much experience as I do
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
prepreludesh
4G TL Performance Parts & Modifications
40
04-16-2015 03:54 AM
jpgayan
3G TL (2004-2008)
30
06-23-2011 03:48 PM
