Shft6

Hey guys, new to posting but long time reader here. I have a 2010 TL SH-AWD 6MT with 62k miles on it and have owned it for over 5 years. So twice so far, while going through a "stop and go" traffic for about one to two minutes, the breaks become hyper-sensitive, to the point i barely touch the pedal with my foot, the car will stop. Then, as I start to accelerate, there is a hesitation and the car starts to struggle to accelerate as if the breaks are being applied. Then as I push in the clutch to shift, it cause the car to decelerate as if I'm pushing the breaks. After a couple more minutes of driving with minor "stops and goes" (ie. like through a neighborhood), once I come to a stop, the car will not move at all. I can get into gear (all, including reverse) as I release the clutch and push the gas, the engine revs and will not move like it's being stopped (like i'm trying to do a burnout). No warning lights of any kind on the dash. Turned off the car, started it back up, still can't move forward or reverse. Thinking I could push the car into a parking space, I tried and nothing. Car didn't budge. Granted, I'm not a small guy but, maybe the car was getting the best of me, so I called backup. My buddy and I pushed with with the car in nuetral and it would not budge. Thinking maybe something electrical, I disconnected the battery, started it up again with the same result. After about 5 minutes with the car off and me not doing anything, I started it and my buddy could hear the breaks release! I was able to drive it with no problem.

So this is the second time in about 1 month that this has happened to me at about the same time of day and same place (going to work). Has anybody else experienced anything like this?

I was thinking that maybe it has something to do with the VSA/Hill Assist engaging or the sensor going bad? Maybe the way I'm using the clutch it's causing the HSA to engage? I have no idea what's causing this. I do know that I will be replacing my Clutch Master Cylinder soon since it's start to make that "click" noise. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

dopeboy1

So it seems your brakes are locking up? Have you serviced or inspected them at all?

Shft6

Yeah they are locking up but only during these 2 incidents (today and the other about 1 month ago) which are the exact same situations. As far as a full inspection, no. Just rotors turned and about 4 motnhs ago I had the breakbooster replaced. But, that is on my todo list.

I thought maybe they overheated and seized but I don't drive/break hard and most of my driving is highway. So not a lot of stop in go. But i honestly have no idea.

dopeboy1

Could be the master cylinder. Do you know if its just one or two or all four of the brakes locking at the same time?

Shft6

I actually don't know if it's all 4. Definitely the front two. So far the issue hasn't happened again. If and when it happend again, I'll take a good look at rears. I'm going to get my breaks serviced in about 2 weeks and get the CMC replaced. Maybe something will be discovered then or maybe that will resolve the issue. But in the an time,I don't feel like taking it to the dealer to troubleshoot because I'm pretty sure I'll get "can't replicate problem" due to it being an inconsistent problem.

_Blacura_

I had basically this same issue. It started for me as a soft/low brake pedal. Replaced the master cylinder, fixed the pedal but two days later my brakes would lock on me and couldn't move. It was the VSA modulator (ABS pump) I had to take it to Honda to get it diagnosed. $2,000 for a new modulator, don't know spend that. You can find them all day for $350 from a junkyard. It does however have to have software written to it from honda/acura. Side note, having the brakes lock up on me was the final straw for my clutch... 129k on it, so I can't complain too much

Shft6

Ah man, so it happened to me again twice yesterday. Ended up towing it to the Acura dealer. Seems like it's only going to get worse. Thank you for your post by the way and the insight. It sounds like it might be VSA modulator problem. Spoke to the service writer just little bit ago, sounds like they have never came across the issue before (go figure). Of course the issue wasn't happening at first and seemed fine. But eventually he said the tech was starting to see the issue after driving it for a bit and the Service Writer hinted that it might be the ABS Module/Pump.

I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind:
1) Why did you have Honda and not Acura diagnose the issue? I have read through various other issues (Clutch issues) that Honda dealerships have a better diagnostic tool than Acura. Is that why you went to Honda?
2) Did you end up having to replace your clutch too?

I'll keep the post updated as I get info.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Honda has the same equipment...it might be a matter of convenience, or he has had good luck with that particular dealership in the past.
my friends work at honda, when ever I have problems I take it to honda to see my friends.

_Blacura_

I went to Honda because the closest Acura dealership is 87 miles away and yes I'm having to replace my clutch and possibly the flywheel because no one in town will resurface dual-mass flywheels... hella expensive. it's only money right? =(

Shft6

Thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the late response. But Ah man that sucks! So my car was ready the next afternoon which really caught me off guard. The Service Writer said the Tech was able to replicate the issue. So based on further testing while driving, he monitored the break pressure. While driving, the car was producing 23 bars of pressure (not sure what the highest bar is) with zero pedal application. At a stop, there was almost 60 bars of pressure. So the Tech adjust the break pedal off the break master cylinder and took it for a test drive. Now while driving, the produced 0 bars of pressure and 23-28 bars of pressure at a red light, which the Service Writer said within spec.

I asked the Service Writer if it was really that simple and he said yeah. He believes that the pedal was never properly adjusted when I had my break booster replaced (embarrassing story on why that was replaced, but totally my fault) and it just took some time before it became a problem. I told him that I was really thinking it was going to be the ABS Module. He said they tested the ABS system and everything operated as normal so they didn't have a reason to believe it was the source of the problem.

But in the end, it cost me $160 so I'm not complaining. But I'm still skeptical of the fix. I'll update the post in about a month just to see if the issue is actually gone.