Proud new owner of a 6-Speed Diamond White TL in TN
07-10-2010, 11:06 AM
#41
Fair price
Honestly I think you overpaid if the final bill was $41,760.
The lowest that the 6MT sold for recently was $36850
before taxes. You can find out the true numbers at www.truecar.com
The lowest that the 6MT sold for recently was $36850
before taxes. You can find out the true numbers at www.truecar.com
07-11-2010, 12:12 AM
#43
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
Here is the link to where I posted my review of the J-Pipe that was just installed on my car yesterday. If it doesn't work, just get into the performance section of this forum and look for the title talking about it.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...5#post12163325
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...5#post12163325
07-11-2010, 08:25 AM
#44
Drifting
I think it depends on the location too
Honestly I think you overpaid if the final bill was $41,760.
The lowest that the 6MT sold for recently was $36850 before taxes. You can find out the true numbers at www.truecar.com
The lowest that the 6MT sold for recently was $36850
before taxes. You can find out the true numbers at www.truecar.com
07-11-2010, 01:50 PM
#45
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
I just wanted to show my latest upgrade today, which are the accessory side skirts. The rest of the lip kit will follow in monthly stages. Front lip in August and rear lip in September.
07-11-2010, 03:05 PM
#46
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
So my time is up in El Paso, TX. Tomorrow I officially start my drive from El Paso to Richmond, VA to live there for 5 months.
One of the things that surprises me with the TL is that the enormous front end seems to catch every bug and rock on the highway. And since I primarily drive on the highway and am taking a 2000+ mile trip over the course of a week, I figure the TL could stand to avoid as much as that as possible. So without further ado, I give you the poor man's version of a clear bra (and it only cost me $7).
One of the things that surprises me with the TL is that the enormous front end seems to catch every bug and rock on the highway. And since I primarily drive on the highway and am taking a 2000+ mile trip over the course of a week, I figure the TL could stand to avoid as much as that as possible. So without further ado, I give you the poor man's version of a clear bra (and it only cost me $7).
07-11-2010, 07:13 PM
#49
better get the mirrors 2 - oh and the silver around the fog lamps seems to be pit quickly
07-11-2010, 09:37 PM
#50
You might want to consider the part of the side skirt by the rear doors just in front of the rear wheels.
Before I put on the accessory side skirts, I took the TL on a 4000 mile road trip. Surprisingly the front bumper and mirrors didn't get destroyed, but the side skirt just in front of the rear wheels got seriously pitted. The rocks/gravel did a number on small section that sticks out from the bottom of the door. They looked like they had been sandblasted. Since the new skirts stick out a bit more in that spot, the potential is there for damage.
The pic below highlights the area I'm describing. Hope this helps and have a safe trip!
Before I put on the accessory side skirts, I took the TL on a 4000 mile road trip. Surprisingly the front bumper and mirrors didn't get destroyed, but the side skirt just in front of the rear wheels got seriously pitted. The rocks/gravel did a number on small section that sticks out from the bottom of the door. They looked like they had been sandblasted. Since the new skirts stick out a bit more in that spot, the potential is there for damage.
The pic below highlights the area I'm describing. Hope this helps and have a safe trip!
07-12-2010, 12:02 AM
#52
Actually they wouldn't, as I had the splash guards installed. On both sides of the car, the stock side skirts were heavily pitted, even with splash guards installed. They can help a little, but after having them on both my '06 & '10 TL, they definitely didn't prevent scratches or chipping along the side skirts. I wish they had though...
The pics don't show any damage, just the area that got pitted/sandblasted when I had the stock side skirts on. Since then I've replaced them with the sport trim version, which is what is in the picture. The stock side skirts are off the car, and looking at them, they definitely suffered a fair amount of wear along the undersides and the area in the picture.
The pics don't show any damage, just the area that got pitted/sandblasted when I had the stock side skirts on. Since then I've replaced them with the sport trim version, which is what is in the picture. The stock side skirts are off the car, and looking at them, they definitely suffered a fair amount of wear along the undersides and the area in the picture.
Last edited by StuartMMVITL; 07-12-2010 at 12:04 AM.
07-12-2010, 12:10 AM
#54
COTM Coordinator
Actually they wouldn't, as I had the splash guards installed. On both sides of the car, the stock side skirts were heavily pitted, even with splash guards installed. They can help a little, but after having them on both my '06 & '10 TL, they definitely didn't prevent scratches or chipping along the side skirts. I wish they had though...
The pics don't show any damage, just the area that got pitted/sandblasted when I had the stock side skirts on. Since then I've replaced them with the sport trim version, which is what is in the picture. The stock side skirts are off the car, and looking at them, they definitely suffered a fair amount of wear along the undersides and the area in the picture.
The pics don't show any damage, just the area that got pitted/sandblasted when I had the stock side skirts on. Since then I've replaced them with the sport trim version, which is what is in the picture. The stock side skirts are off the car, and looking at them, they definitely suffered a fair amount of wear along the undersides and the area in the picture.
08-25-2010, 06:35 PM
#59
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
Big update!
So I went balls out (in my opinion, haha) and modded up my front end as much as I could. I'm absolutely ecstatic about the results! Here is the step by step guide to making my TL even more of a headturner...
I finally got the wife to agree to letting me buy the front lip for the TL, and I decided to take the dive and make my headlights into some JNC-style masterpieces. I placed an order with TRS for the TSX-R lenses because everyone on here kept saying how much better they were.
So on Sunday afternoon, I went over to my friend Tim's house to help him repair a large scratch on his Silverado. While I was there, we took off my front bumper in an effort to save time on doing everything on Monday. Long thought process not includedon this. Haha. I drove to work on Monday like this...
But on Sunday night, I decided to start the process for the headlights. Keep in mind, I have no experience on how to do it, I am just doing what advice I received on the JNC thread of this forum!
After I got the headlight out, I began to disassemble uneccessary parts in my apartment... here is the bottom plastic piece getting taken off...
Next came the scary part! I removed the halogen DRL light bulbs from the headlights, but I was unsure if I could leave the HID in the oven at 225 degrees for 20 minutes But I didn't see anyone on here mention to take it out, and I tried to until I realized it was next to impossible to do, so I left it in. I was so scared it would break the HID assembly being in the oven like that, but long story short, they work just fine after that... Oh and by the way, my oven was JUST big enough to place one headlight in at a time.
Now here I am prying apart the headlight. I knew to start from the center and work outwards, but do the center on the top and the bottom of the headlight (oh, and don't forget to remove the three screws holding it all together first).
You can see the headlight adhesive from the factory literally has the consistency of chewing gum when heated to 225 degrees.
remove the HID ring bracket from the silver piece.
Remove the three screws holding in the HID glass lense...
Here is a quick comparison of the stock cloudy lense (left) to the TSX-R lense (right). The stock one is really only cloudy on the edges, and it is a blue cloudiness that isn't too apparent. More on this later...
I used Dupli-Color flat black spray paint. No prep work either. I painted behind the amber sidemarkers for that "tinted" look.
Now reassembly...
Then I put the headlights back into the oven (225 degrees for 5 minutes) when I was reassembling to soften the stock grey adhesive again. Also, have a tube of this handy to fill in any small gaps if you have any (I did).
Next, I followed the instruction to putting the front lip on. Overall, it took me about an hour and a half. Probably could have gone faster, but oh well.
Then, viola! The finished product!
To sum it up, my first day of having the car all put together and as I'm driving into the front gate at Fort Lee today, the security girl told me (as she was checking my ID), "Wow, I really love your car"
Fuck yeah
I finally got the wife to agree to letting me buy the front lip for the TL, and I decided to take the dive and make my headlights into some JNC-style masterpieces. I placed an order with TRS for the TSX-R lenses because everyone on here kept saying how much better they were.
So on Sunday afternoon, I went over to my friend Tim's house to help him repair a large scratch on his Silverado. While I was there, we took off my front bumper in an effort to save time on doing everything on Monday. Long thought process not includedon this. Haha. I drove to work on Monday like this...
But on Sunday night, I decided to start the process for the headlights. Keep in mind, I have no experience on how to do it, I am just doing what advice I received on the JNC thread of this forum!
After I got the headlight out, I began to disassemble uneccessary parts in my apartment... here is the bottom plastic piece getting taken off...
Next came the scary part! I removed the halogen DRL light bulbs from the headlights, but I was unsure if I could leave the HID in the oven at 225 degrees for 20 minutes
But I didn't see anyone on here mention to take it out, and I tried to until I realized it was next to impossible to do, so I left it in. I was so scared it would break the HID assembly being in the oven like that, but long story short, they work just fine after that... Oh and by the way, my oven was JUST big enough to place one headlight in at a time.Now here I am prying apart the headlight. I knew to start from the center and work outwards, but do the center on the top and the bottom of the headlight (oh, and don't forget to remove the three screws holding it all together first).
You can see the headlight adhesive from the factory literally has the consistency of chewing gum when heated to 225 degrees.
remove the HID ring bracket from the silver piece.
Remove the three screws holding in the HID glass lense...
Here is a quick comparison of the stock cloudy lense (left) to the TSX-R lense (right). The stock one is really only cloudy on the edges, and it is a blue cloudiness that isn't too apparent. More on this later...
I used Dupli-Color flat black spray paint. No prep work either. I painted behind the amber sidemarkers for that "tinted" look.
Now reassembly...
Then I put the headlights back into the oven (225 degrees for 5 minutes) when I was reassembling to soften the stock grey adhesive again. Also, have a tube of this handy to fill in any small gaps if you have any (I did).
Next, I followed the instruction to putting the front lip on. Overall, it took me about an hour and a half. Probably could have gone faster, but oh well.
Then, viola! The finished product!
To sum it up, my first day of having the car all put together and as I'm driving into the front gate at Fort Lee today, the security girl told me (as she was checking my ID), "Wow, I really love your car"
Fuck yeah
The following users liked this post:
TuroTL (10-17-2018)
08-25-2010, 06:55 PM
#62
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
08-25-2010, 11:15 PM
#64
wow... the combo of the blacked out lights and front lip looks VERY VERY nice!!
that is one of the nicest looking 4G TL's I've seen...!!!
front end looks amazing!!!!
that looks like a lot of work to heat it up and open it up and paint!!! excellent work!
I have gone back and forth between your "before" and "after" photos - the black lights TRANSFORM the front end... such a minor change but such a drastic upgrade! Acura shoudl have done that from the factory!!!
that is one of the nicest looking 4G TL's I've seen...!!!
front end looks amazing!!!!
that looks like a lot of work to heat it up and open it up and paint!!! excellent work!
I have gone back and forth between your "before" and "after" photos - the black lights TRANSFORM the front end... such a minor change but such a drastic upgrade! Acura shoudl have done that from the factory!!!
08-27-2010, 01:50 PM
#65
Drifting
Beautiful job. Your car looks terrific.
What was the total time investment, start to finish?
What was the total time investment, start to finish?
09-01-2010, 10:37 PM
#67
Drifting
Prepreludesh, I could not believe that you did all that yourself!!! Those headlights look AMAZING!!! I gasped when I saw those photos that you took during the process...! Anyway, as much as I love my Mayan Bronze, your photos make me kinda want a WDP now... LOL
09-04-2010, 11:54 AM
#69
is your suspension / ride height stock? almost looks sort of lowered in some of those more recent pics...
car looks nice!
if i ever get rid of my RL and box =- I'd get a manual WDP TL SH-AWD... like yours!
Acura ought to do all the headlights like yours OEM!
car looks nice!
if i ever get rid of my RL and box =- I'd get a manual WDP TL SH-AWD... like yours!
Acura ought to do all the headlights like yours OEM!
09-08-2010, 07:34 PM
#70
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
Did a small modification today that I'd like to share...
I noticed on these 8+ hour road trips, that the air inside my car, when on recirculate, gets pretty funky by hour 5. And using fresh air isn't the best way to get good gas mileage with the A/C on, so I consider this a worthwhile investment...
Then I put everything back in reverse. Took probably 3 minutes to do, even with taking pictures. I probably plan on replacing it every 10,000 miles. It costs $18.98 at Advance Auto Parts.
I noticed on these 8+ hour road trips, that the air inside my car, when on recirculate, gets pretty funky by hour 5. And using fresh air isn't the best way to get good gas mileage with the A/C on, so I consider this a worthwhile investment...
Then I put everything back in reverse. Took probably 3 minutes to do, even with taking pictures. I probably plan on replacing it every 10,000 miles. It costs $18.98 at Advance Auto Parts.
09-10-2010, 10:50 PM
#71
10th Gear
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10
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I just got a black one with wheel locks, trunk tray, splash guards, and 100,000k bumper to bumper with .09% rate for 38K! Also got 22,500 for my 08 TL with 49K on it as well. I think that went well and I love it. SH-AWD with the six speed really make the car a jewel.
09-11-2010, 03:20 AM
#72
10th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Miami,FL
Age: 40
Posts: 12
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I just wanted to put a couple pictures in here for the fun of it. I noticed I left out a picture of the rear end.
And a picture of the free coffee mugs, haha (pink is for the wife)
Leaving to go back to Iraq today. I washed the car and detailed it really well and filled the tank up before I left. Now she will sit until the beginning of May until I can drive her once more
And a picture of the free coffee mugs, haha (pink is for the wife)
Leaving to go back to Iraq today. I washed the car and detailed it really well and filled the tank up before I left. Now she will sit until the beginning of May until I can drive her once more
09-11-2010, 03:34 AM
#73
10th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Miami,FL
Age: 40
Posts: 12
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So I went balls out (in my opinion, haha) and modded up my front end as much as I could. I'm absolutely ecstatic about the results! Here is the step by step guide to making my TL even more of a headturner...
I finally got the wife to agree to letting me buy the front lip for the TL, and I decided to take the dive and make my headlights into some JNC-style masterpieces. I placed an order with TRS for the TSX-R lenses because everyone on here kept saying how much better they were.
So on Sunday afternoon, I went over to my friend Tim's house to help him repair a large scratch on his Silverado. While I was there, we took off my front bumper in an effort to save time on doing everything on Monday. Long thought process not includedon this. Haha. I drove to work on Monday like this...
But on Sunday night, I decided to start the process for the headlights. Keep in mind, I have no experience on how to do it, I am just doing what advice I received on the JNC thread of this forum!
After I got the headlight out, I began to disassemble uneccessary parts in my apartment... here is the bottom plastic piece getting taken off...
Next came the scary part! I removed the halogen DRL light bulbs from the headlights, but I was unsure if I could leave the HID in the oven at 225 degrees for 20 minutes But I didn't see anyone on here mention to take it out, and I tried to until I realized it was next to impossible to do, so I left it in. I was so scared it would break the HID assembly being in the oven like that, but long story short, they work just fine after that... Oh and by the way, my oven was JUST big enough to place one headlight in at a time.
Now here I am prying apart the headlight. I knew to start from the center and work outwards, but do the center on the top and the bottom of the headlight (oh, and don't forget to remove the three screws holding it all together first).
You can see the headlight adhesive from the factory literally has the consistency of chewing gum when heated to 225 degrees.
remove the HID ring bracket from the silver piece.
Remove the three screws holding in the HID glass lense...
Here is a quick comparison of the stock cloudy lense (left) to the TSX-R lense (right). The stock one is really only cloudy on the edges, and it is a blue cloudiness that isn't too apparent. More on this later...
I used Dupli-Color flat black spray paint. No prep work either. I painted behind the amber sidemarkers for that "tinted" look.
Now reassembly...
Then I put the headlights back into the oven (225 degrees for 5 minutes) when I was reassembling to soften the stock grey adhesive again. Also, have a tube of this handy to fill in any small gaps if you have any (I did).
Next, I followed the instruction to putting the front lip on. Overall, it took me about an hour and a half. Probably could have gone faster, but oh well.
Then, viola! The finished product!
To sum it up, my first day of having the car all put together and as I'm driving into the front gate at Fort Lee today, the security girl told me (as she was checking my ID), "Wow, I really love your car"
Fuck yeah
I finally got the wife to agree to letting me buy the front lip for the TL, and I decided to take the dive and make my headlights into some JNC-style masterpieces. I placed an order with TRS for the TSX-R lenses because everyone on here kept saying how much better they were.
So on Sunday afternoon, I went over to my friend Tim's house to help him repair a large scratch on his Silverado. While I was there, we took off my front bumper in an effort to save time on doing everything on Monday. Long thought process not includedon this. Haha. I drove to work on Monday like this...
But on Sunday night, I decided to start the process for the headlights. Keep in mind, I have no experience on how to do it, I am just doing what advice I received on the JNC thread of this forum!
After I got the headlight out, I began to disassemble uneccessary parts in my apartment... here is the bottom plastic piece getting taken off...
Next came the scary part! I removed the halogen DRL light bulbs from the headlights, but I was unsure if I could leave the HID in the oven at 225 degrees for 20 minutes
But I didn't see anyone on here mention to take it out, and I tried to until I realized it was next to impossible to do, so I left it in. I was so scared it would break the HID assembly being in the oven like that, but long story short, they work just fine after that... Oh and by the way, my oven was JUST big enough to place one headlight in at a time.Now here I am prying apart the headlight. I knew to start from the center and work outwards, but do the center on the top and the bottom of the headlight (oh, and don't forget to remove the three screws holding it all together first).
You can see the headlight adhesive from the factory literally has the consistency of chewing gum when heated to 225 degrees.
remove the HID ring bracket from the silver piece.
Remove the three screws holding in the HID glass lense...
Here is a quick comparison of the stock cloudy lense (left) to the TSX-R lense (right). The stock one is really only cloudy on the edges, and it is a blue cloudiness that isn't too apparent. More on this later...
I used Dupli-Color flat black spray paint. No prep work either. I painted behind the amber sidemarkers for that "tinted" look.
Now reassembly...
Then I put the headlights back into the oven (225 degrees for 5 minutes) when I was reassembling to soften the stock grey adhesive again. Also, have a tube of this handy to fill in any small gaps if you have any (I did).
Next, I followed the instruction to putting the front lip on. Overall, it took me about an hour and a half. Probably could have gone faster, but oh well.
Then, viola! The finished product!
To sum it up, my first day of having the car all put together and as I'm driving into the front gate at Fort Lee today, the security girl told me (as she was checking my ID), "Wow, I really love your car"
Fuck yeah
09-19-2010, 01:32 PM
#74
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
Finally got the part I've been waiting for, the Takeda Intake. I bought it off of Ebay for $279.00 shipped. I thought I'd take you all through the install process and my opinions on it at the moment. I might be preaching to the choir on this because so many people seem to have this modification already!
Product arrived in a nice, shiney Takeda box.
I couldn't start on it last night, so I started on it this morning. I've installed at least 4 other intakes on various vehicles in the past, so I took the directions more or less as a recommendation and only referred to them if I was stuck on something. The first thing I'll let you know up front is that I did not remove or disconnect the battery for the entire install process. I personally just didn't want to go through that pain in the ass step with all of the radio code resets later on. Call me lazy...
It comes with everything you see here...
The first thing I noticed is that apparently none of my previous services must have cleaned or replaced my damn stock air filter! It was filthy!
All of the screws/bolts that hold in the bottom part of the air box were easy to remove except the 10mm one between the battery and the filter. Gee thanks, Acura. But I had an 8" extension and used a u-joint attachment with a 10mm socket at the end of my 3/8" drive rachet. It'll take some finaggling, but ultimately, I got it and removed it.
I won't bother to show you the rest of this process, because the directions have good pictures on them, but here was the hardest part of the whole installation... the two coolant nipples and their clamps that are positioned in the worst possible manner, terribly hard to get them off! Had to use two pairs of needlenose pliers, a 14" one and a really small 3 inch one. Just be patient and you can get it though...
here is the less harder of the two coolant nipples to get off...
Also, here is one of the only pieces that used to attach the whole stock setup, but doesn't have a place to attach anywhere. I fit it snuggly down here on the bottom area of the fuse box. It's just a vacuum box for something, so it's not too important/fragile.
Here is another little surprise that didn't stop me, but might stop you. The directions list the tools you need but they missed one, a #4 allen wrench head. If you don't have an extensive tool collection, you will be stopped by this step. These 3 bolts will allow the filter to be attached to the air redirection plate.
Test fit for the middle piece... P.S. the Ebay kit came with both attachments for the 3.5L and 3.7L, so don't worry.
The only area I saw a lack of quality in was the welding job done on the aluminum pipe. I'm not saying this is such a terrible fault, but make sure to run your finger (or rage) along the inside weld and pick off any loose aluminum. I caught a couple small pieces with my finger as I moved it along the seam and they could've potentially got sucked into the intake. That might've been bad news for the engine.
The MAF sensor is a fairly easy piece to screw back on. It was also the most high-tech MAF I've seen (although to be fair, I've only seen them on Ford and Chevrolet Trucks.
Now make sure to put the supplied rubber protector around the air blockoff plate thing, because it does touch against the battery box.
And after cleaning it up a bit, it's all set to go! Looks great!
The covers all go back on well, but I wouldn't say it fit perfectly over the tube.
Overall impressions... the kit took me 2 hours to install, more than likely because I didn't remove the battery and probably messed around with the bottom bolt on the airbox than I should have. Also, the coolant line rerouting took me a while because I couldn't fit my fingers in there! I also compile the usual bathroom break/text messages/picture taking and so on, so it was really quite simple.
The sound on this thing is incredible too! I couldn't understand what the hell the hype was all about with people saying they didn't know if it increased power, but they just loved the sound. I was in the mindset that I didn't want it if the sound was all it was worth, but I'll be damned, the sound alone is well worth it! I highly recommend it. Also, it seems to smooth out the powerband I noticed and the acceleration generally seems smoother. Does anyone else with a 6MT notice that moderate acceleration seems to produce a few "bumps" in the powerband along the way? They're not noticable to passengers, but it was something I felt every now and then. This intake seems to have cured that, but only time will tell.
Overall, I would highly recommend this product! Up next... the cat delete pipe that just came in the mail!
Product arrived in a nice, shiney Takeda box.
I couldn't start on it last night, so I started on it this morning. I've installed at least 4 other intakes on various vehicles in the past, so I took the directions more or less as a recommendation and only referred to them if I was stuck on something. The first thing I'll let you know up front is that I did not remove or disconnect the battery for the entire install process. I personally just didn't want to go through that pain in the ass step with all of the radio code resets later on. Call me lazy...
It comes with everything you see here...
The first thing I noticed is that apparently none of my previous services must have cleaned or replaced my damn stock air filter! It was filthy!
All of the screws/bolts that hold in the bottom part of the air box were easy to remove except the 10mm one between the battery and the filter. Gee thanks, Acura. But I had an 8" extension and used a u-joint attachment with a 10mm socket at the end of my 3/8" drive rachet. It'll take some finaggling, but ultimately, I got it and removed it.
I won't bother to show you the rest of this process, because the directions have good pictures on them, but here was the hardest part of the whole installation... the two coolant nipples and their clamps that are positioned in the worst possible manner, terribly hard to get them off! Had to use two pairs of needlenose pliers, a 14" one and a really small 3 inch one. Just be patient and you can get it though...
here is the less harder of the two coolant nipples to get off...
Also, here is one of the only pieces that used to attach the whole stock setup, but doesn't have a place to attach anywhere. I fit it snuggly down here on the bottom area of the fuse box. It's just a vacuum box for something, so it's not too important/fragile.
Here is another little surprise that didn't stop me, but might stop you. The directions list the tools you need but they missed one, a #4 allen wrench head. If you don't have an extensive tool collection, you will be stopped by this step. These 3 bolts will allow the filter to be attached to the air redirection plate.
Test fit for the middle piece... P.S. the Ebay kit came with both attachments for the 3.5L and 3.7L, so don't worry.
The only area I saw a lack of quality in was the welding job done on the aluminum pipe. I'm not saying this is such a terrible fault, but make sure to run your finger (or rage) along the inside weld and pick off any loose aluminum. I caught a couple small pieces with my finger as I moved it along the seam and they could've potentially got sucked into the intake. That might've been bad news for the engine.
The MAF sensor is a fairly easy piece to screw back on. It was also the most high-tech MAF I've seen (although to be fair, I've only seen them on Ford and Chevrolet Trucks.
Now make sure to put the supplied rubber protector around the air blockoff plate thing, because it does touch against the battery box.
And after cleaning it up a bit, it's all set to go! Looks great!
The covers all go back on well, but I wouldn't say it fit perfectly over the tube.
Overall impressions... the kit took me 2 hours to install, more than likely because I didn't remove the battery and probably messed around with the bottom bolt on the airbox than I should have. Also, the coolant line rerouting took me a while because I couldn't fit my fingers in there! I also compile the usual bathroom break/text messages/picture taking and so on, so it was really quite simple.
The sound on this thing is incredible too! I couldn't understand what the hell the hype was all about with people saying they didn't know if it increased power, but they just loved the sound. I was in the mindset that I didn't want it if the sound was all it was worth, but I'll be damned, the sound alone is well worth it! I highly recommend it. Also, it seems to smooth out the powerband I noticed and the acceleration generally seems smoother. Does anyone else with a 6MT notice that moderate acceleration seems to produce a few "bumps" in the powerband along the way? They're not noticable to passengers, but it was something I felt every now and then. This intake seems to have cured that, but only time will tell.
Overall, I would highly recommend this product! Up next... the cat delete pipe that just came in the mail!
09-19-2010, 01:40 PM
#75
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
$290 shipped. I got it through an Ebay Acura dealer in Missouri I believe...
09-19-2010, 01:49 PM
#76
COTM Coordinator
damn nice progress. makes me want to go spend a bunch of money on the TL lol. I lvoe the front lip it makes it look so aggressive. Good job, cant wait to hear your thoughts on the testpipe and please, for the love of god, can you make a sound clip of the exhaust with the test pipe.
09-19-2010, 02:05 PM
#77
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
damn nice progress. makes me want to go spend a bunch of money on the TL lol. I lvoe the front lip it makes it look so aggressive. Good job, cant wait to hear your thoughts on the testpipe and please, for the love of god, can you make a sound clip of the exhaust with the test pipe.
09-20-2010, 03:13 PM
#79
Team Owner
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Damn nice work indeed, Prepre!
10-01-2010, 07:19 PM
#80
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
This thread might be slowly becoming my "build thread" and might neccessitate a title change soon! haha. Anyway, I wanted to post the pictures of the cat-delete I put on the car and posted on another thread. So enjoy!
So I finally got some time today to install the test-pipe. I was really trying to hurry because I just got out of work/school here at FT Lee and didn't know what time the auto shop closed. They let you use their car lifts for $6 an hour, not too shabby.
So when I got the car up on the lift, the first thing I did was apply a liberal coating of PB Blaster all over the bolts of the stock cat. Turns out I did not have to apply too much to the ones that Eric at Billy Boat Exhuast took off back in July when he installed the J-Pipe. All-in-all for an exhaust with 21,000 miles on it, the bolts were very easy to remove.
The toughest bolt was probably the top one located on the side attached to the J-Pipe. I did not use the same wrench/ratchet/crows foot combination to take it off as I did to put the new one on, but since I did it, you can too. You'll just have to work with whatever tools you have.
My recommendations for tools before you start this install are:
Uninstall:
3/8 and 1/2 ratchet drives
3/8 and 1/2 breaker bars
3/8 and 1/2 u-joints
3/8 and 1/2 3, 6 and 8 inch extenders
17mm crows foot
17mm deep and shallow socket
14mm deep and shallow socket (also for the underbrace bolts)
Install:
5/8" and 9/16" ratcheting wrenches (if you don't have any, use regular wrenches)
Here is a little historical update on how the J-Pipe looks after around 10,000 miles on it...
While you let the PB Blaster set in, take off the cross member, trust me, it'll save you a hassle in the long run to reach that top bolt on the stock cat. It's only 5 14mm bolts...
When you get all 6 bolts off of the stock cat, it's a little tricky to get off because everything is so tight. However, I found that literally a quick, hard pull downward on one side or the other of the cat will get it off. Be violent with it, the exhaust system can take it...
Now take your stock cat and unbolt the heat shield if you're choosing to go the sleeper-route like me...
...and bolt it up to the Excelerate test-pipe...
By the way!! Here is a very very important step for those of you using the stock shield. Make sure to fit the bolt for the top spot of the test pipe (facing the j-pipe) so that the head of the bolt is facing the rear of the car and the nut is on the J-Pipe side of the car! This will save you time of finding that you can't tighten it in that area if you try the other way and then you'll have to take the cat down again, unbolt the guards and put the bolt in and then put everything back up and together...
That bolt on top of the cat continued to be my achillies heel throughout the install, but ultimately, I got it...
Not the way the bolts should go! (below)
Here is a kinda bad picture of how it looked before I tightened it all down...
And you're done! The car now has a noticable depth to its growl that you can make out from the Takeda Intake's sound. I did promise sound clips, but those won't come until the end of the weekend at the soonest. Sorry everyone, but I have to find my point-and-shoot camera so that I can have a camera with video mode. These shots were taken with my Canon Digital Rebel SLR.
Overall, the test-pipe was a great fit, had great build quality, and makes for a smoother powerband feel that I could tell only in the first 15 miles! Now if I only I could have some more redline to play with to enjoy it more!
So I finally got some time today to install the test-pipe. I was really trying to hurry because I just got out of work/school here at FT Lee and didn't know what time the auto shop closed. They let you use their car lifts for $6 an hour, not too shabby.
So when I got the car up on the lift, the first thing I did was apply a liberal coating of PB Blaster all over the bolts of the stock cat. Turns out I did not have to apply too much to the ones that Eric at Billy Boat Exhuast took off back in July when he installed the J-Pipe. All-in-all for an exhaust with 21,000 miles on it, the bolts were very easy to remove.
The toughest bolt was probably the top one located on the side attached to the J-Pipe. I did not use the same wrench/ratchet/crows foot combination to take it off as I did to put the new one on, but since I did it, you can too. You'll just have to work with whatever tools you have.
My recommendations for tools before you start this install are:
Uninstall:
3/8 and 1/2 ratchet drives
3/8 and 1/2 breaker bars
3/8 and 1/2 u-joints
3/8 and 1/2 3, 6 and 8 inch extenders
17mm crows foot
17mm deep and shallow socket
14mm deep and shallow socket (also for the underbrace bolts)
Install:
5/8" and 9/16" ratcheting wrenches (if you don't have any, use regular wrenches)
Here is a little historical update on how the J-Pipe looks after around 10,000 miles on it...
While you let the PB Blaster set in, take off the cross member, trust me, it'll save you a hassle in the long run to reach that top bolt on the stock cat. It's only 5 14mm bolts...
When you get all 6 bolts off of the stock cat, it's a little tricky to get off because everything is so tight. However, I found that literally a quick, hard pull downward on one side or the other of the cat will get it off. Be violent with it, the exhaust system can take it...
Now take your stock cat and unbolt the heat shield if you're choosing to go the sleeper-route like me...
...and bolt it up to the Excelerate test-pipe...
By the way!! Here is a very very important step for those of you using the stock shield. Make sure to fit the bolt for the top spot of the test pipe (facing the j-pipe) so that the head of the bolt is facing the rear of the car and the nut is on the J-Pipe side of the car! This will save you time of finding that you can't tighten it in that area if you try the other way and then you'll have to take the cat down again, unbolt the guards and put the bolt in and then put everything back up and together...
That bolt on top of the cat continued to be my achillies heel throughout the install, but ultimately, I got it...
Not the way the bolts should go! (below)
Here is a kinda bad picture of how it looked before I tightened it all down...
And you're done! The car now has a noticable depth to its growl that you can make out from the Takeda Intake's sound. I did promise sound clips, but those won't come until the end of the weekend at the soonest. Sorry everyone, but I have to find my point-and-shoot camera so that I can have a camera with video mode. These shots were taken with my Canon Digital Rebel SLR.
Overall, the test-pipe was a great fit, had great build quality, and makes for a smoother powerband feel that I could tell only in the first 15 miles! Now if I only I could have some more redline to play with to enjoy it more!